Riding my cannondale quick 4?
07-05-09, 12:43 AM
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Riding my cannondale quick 4?
Stupid question I know. Which gear do I ride in to reach maximum speed on flat ground. How do you know which gear you should be in. I know; I am an idiot. Recently obtained a jumbo cannondale Quick 4. What do you all think of this bike. Thanks.
07-05-09, 01:14 AM
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well first if you dont have clipless pedals, get them. nothing will effect your speed more than the ability to use more, stronger muscles. from just quads to quads, hamstrings and glutes. i guarantee if youv never used them before, once you try them youll be giggling like a school girl about how fun it is to be going THAT fast.
if you already do have clipless pedals then...idk...aero bars maybe? im not one for spending 2 thousand dollars on carbon components to put on a 1 thousand dollar bike. if all else fails, make your lower body stronger, i hear that has something to do with speed
if you already do have clipless pedals then...idk...aero bars maybe? im not one for spending 2 thousand dollars on carbon components to put on a 1 thousand dollar bike. if all else fails, make your lower body stronger, i hear that has something to do with speed
07-05-09, 02:30 AM
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Time for a change.
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The gear for maximum speed is dependant on 2 things- How fit you are and how strong the legs are.
I run a compact gearing set up- with 50/34 on the crank and 12/27 on the Cassette. The reason for a 50t on the front is that unless I am going downhill- I cannot pull a 52 ring on the front. And the reason for a wide spread on the rear cassette is that up hill I need lower gears.
But in theory
The largest ring on the front and the smallest ring on the back. That is if you can spin the legs fast enough to use that gearing.
I run a compact gearing set up- with 50/34 on the crank and 12/27 on the Cassette. The reason for a 50t on the front is that unless I am going downhill- I cannot pull a 52 ring on the front. And the reason for a wide spread on the rear cassette is that up hill I need lower gears.
But in theory
The largest ring on the front and the smallest ring on the back. That is if you can spin the legs fast enough to use that gearing.
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07-05-09, 06:06 AM
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Select a gear that allows you to spin your legs 'fast but not too fast'. For most people, most of the time, this is around 80 RPM. This will be a lower gear when going uphill & a higher gear going down. A little experience will be your guide. A typical new-rider mistake is pushing a too-high gear / too-low cadence. This wears you out sooner.
A lower cadence is OK if you're not pushing too hard, just coasting along; for example, going downhill & not trying to go faster, or strolling slowly through the park. Higher cadence if you're putting out a burst of power for acceleration or climbing or are a super-fit rider & can maintain a high power output. Edit- OK so I see the TdF riders going about 80 RPM --
Avoid cross-chaining the drivetrain -- keep the chain fairly straight -- don't use small-small or big-big ring-cog combinations. Cross chaining reduces efficiency and accelerates wear of the drivetrain.
A lower cadence is OK if you're not pushing too hard, just coasting along; for example, going downhill & not trying to go faster, or strolling slowly through the park. Higher cadence if you're putting out a burst of power for acceleration or climbing or are a super-fit rider & can maintain a high power output. Edit- OK so I see the TdF riders going about 80 RPM --
Avoid cross-chaining the drivetrain -- keep the chain fairly straight -- don't use small-small or big-big ring-cog combinations. Cross chaining reduces efficiency and accelerates wear of the drivetrain.
Last edited by duffer1960; 07-05-09 at 06:15 AM.
07-05-09, 06:49 AM
#5
Pwnerer
I think it's a bit expensive for the spec, but at least it doesn't have any of the typical Cannondale proprietary garbage.
07-05-09, 07:09 AM
#6
don't try this at home.
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Gear selection doesn't need to be complicated.
If your roads are mostly flat, and you'll be riding fairly fast, use the biggest chain ring in the front. For mixed flat and smaller hills, use the middle chain ring. The smallest one is for steeper hills. Of course, you can shift to a different chain ring anytime, too.
Then just shift up or down on the back cogs until you are pedaling fairly fast, and not pushing hard on the pedals. You'll soon get a feel for a good gear.
If you keep shifting to an easier gear and run out of shifts, move the front chain ring to the next smallest size.
Once you have some practice, on a quiet road, count the right foot revolutions for 15 seconds and multiply by 4. This is your cadence in revolutions per minute. Most riders do best at 80 rpm or a bit more.
If your roads are mostly flat, and you'll be riding fairly fast, use the biggest chain ring in the front. For mixed flat and smaller hills, use the middle chain ring. The smallest one is for steeper hills. Of course, you can shift to a different chain ring anytime, too.
Then just shift up or down on the back cogs until you are pedaling fairly fast, and not pushing hard on the pedals. You'll soon get a feel for a good gear.
If you keep shifting to an easier gear and run out of shifts, move the front chain ring to the next smallest size.
Once you have some practice, on a quiet road, count the right foot revolutions for 15 seconds and multiply by 4. This is your cadence in revolutions per minute. Most riders do best at 80 rpm or a bit more.
