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  1. #26
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by njkayaker View Post
    You should be able to use a friction mode
    bar-end shifter. Some shifters can be switched from friction to
    indexed.
    My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
    me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
    handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
    was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
    fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
    easily?

    Quote Originally Posted by njkayaker View Post
    The are intended for MTB but they work fine on
    road bikes. A lot of people do it. The advantage of the MTB/SPD shoes is
    that they are easier to walk around in.
    Quote Originally Posted by black_box View Post
    I started with double-sided pedals but went to
    crank brothers eggbeaters quickly. I don't really ride to get places,
    just for fun, so there wasn't a need to wear regular shoes. Also, I
    have mountain bike shoes which are easy to walk/run in.
    That's exactly why I was recommended these. Unlike black_box, the
    majority of the times I mount my bike, it's in regular shoes for a trip
    of less than two miles---to the store, to someone's apartment, to
    school, etc. And it's still nice to have the option of walking even when
    I clip in.

    Quote Originally Posted by black_box View Post
    This should help:
    http://www.chicagobikeshops.info/gmapView.php Also try the
    great lakes forum here.
    Thank you, I'll do both.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by damonwang View Post
    My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
    me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
    handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
    was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
    fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
    easily?
    Unless you can get an indexing system that happens to work with your setup, friction is going to be it. I'd guess that your really want to be able to feel the shift happen. When I was using downtube shifters, I'd move the levers untill I felt the gear had changed (you can feel it through the shifters). Bar end shifters might make that easier for you. Oddly, it might be faster (overall) if you shift slower.

    Indexing is related to the distance between the cogs. The distance between the cogs in a 5 speed cluster is too big. This might be where you get stuck with regards to your bike being too "old". I have no idea if there was ever indexing for 5 speed clusters.
    Last edited by njkayaker; 09-01-09 at 04:47 PM.

  3. #28
    Zan
    Zan is offline
    Senior Member Zan's Avatar
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    Waterloo, ONT
    My Bikes
    Road: Trek 1.5 (2007). Mountain: Santa Cruz Chameleon (2008). Beater: Peugeot Recorde du Monde (1850)
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    i've never worn road bike shoes - only mountain bike shoes.

    I don't have too much of a problem walking around in mountain bike shoes. They suck on tile, linoleum, asphalt, any other man-made flat/hard surface. They're only good off road and on carpets. Mind you, I walk around in my biker shoes regularly at the stores, school, etc. You can't walk fast - that's all.

    Oh, also be prepared for people to be looking out for the "person in high heels" when you walk by.
    -- Zan

    "Every dog needs a squeak toy."

  4. #29
    Member Nogyro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by damonwang View Post
    My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
    me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
    handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
    was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
    fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
    easily?
    I'm riding an old 73' Raleigh Super Course with DT shifters. I find that I actually don't shift by ear or feel. I've learned that each gear position has to have the shifter lever moved just slightly more or less depending on which gear I'm going to. The throw of the lever from 2nd to 3rd isn't as far as from 3rd to 4th. Also when downshifting from 4th to 3rd I actually move the lever past 3rd then back up towards 4th just a bit. If I was to leave the lever where it was, it would go to 2nd. If I don't move it that far, it will just hang in 4th and grind, not going to 3rd. It's kind of a quick down and back, but just a fraction of an inch.... You might give it a try next time out. I'm sure they all have there own personalities, you just have to figure out what works.

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