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Old 09-01-09, 04:10 PM   #26
damonwang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njkayaker View Post
You should be able to use a friction mode
bar-end shifter. Some shifters can be switched from friction to
indexed.
My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
easily?

Quote:
Originally Posted by njkayaker View Post
The are intended for MTB but they work fine on
road bikes. A lot of people do it. The advantage of the MTB/SPD shoes is
that they are easier to walk around in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by black_box View Post
I started with double-sided pedals but went to
crank brothers eggbeaters quickly. I don't really ride to get places,
just for fun, so there wasn't a need to wear regular shoes. Also, I
have mountain bike shoes which are easy to walk/run in.
That's exactly why I was recommended these. Unlike black_box, the
majority of the times I mount my bike, it's in regular shoes for a trip
of less than two miles---to the store, to someone's apartment, to
school, etc. And it's still nice to have the option of walking even when
I clip in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by black_box View Post
This should help:
http://www.chicagobikeshops.info/gmapView.php Also try the
great lakes forum here.
Thank you, I'll do both.
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Old 09-01-09, 04:40 PM   #27
njkayaker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damonwang View Post
My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
easily?
Unless you can get an indexing system that happens to work with your setup, friction is going to be it. I'd guess that your really want to be able to feel the shift happen. When I was using downtube shifters, I'd move the levers untill I felt the gear had changed (you can feel it through the shifters). Bar end shifters might make that easier for you. Oddly, it might be faster (overall) if you shift slower.

Indexing is related to the distance between the cogs. The distance between the cogs in a 5 speed cluster is too big. This might be where you get stuck with regards to your bike being too "old". I have no idea if there was ever indexing for 5 speed clusters.

Last edited by njkayaker; 09-01-09 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 09-01-09, 06:11 PM   #28
Zan
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i've never worn road bike shoes - only mountain bike shoes.

I don't have too much of a problem walking around in mountain bike shoes. They suck on tile, linoleum, asphalt, any other man-made flat/hard surface. They're only good off road and on carpets. Mind you, I walk around in my biker shoes regularly at the stores, school, etc. You can't walk fast - that's all.

Oh, also be prepared for people to be looking out for the "person in high heels" when you walk by.
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Old 09-01-09, 07:38 PM   #29
Nogyro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damonwang View Post
My mistake was asking for an implementation instead of a solution. Let
me back up. I want to shift quickly and then get my hand back on the
handlebars. The longest part of the shift is trimming the derailleur. I
was supposed to learn the stops with time, but after a year I'm still
fumbling around every time feeling for the shift. How can I shift more
easily?
I'm riding an old 73' Raleigh Super Course with DT shifters. I find that I actually don't shift by ear or feel. I've learned that each gear position has to have the shifter lever moved just slightly more or less depending on which gear I'm going to. The throw of the lever from 2nd to 3rd isn't as far as from 3rd to 4th. Also when downshifting from 4th to 3rd I actually move the lever past 3rd then back up towards 4th just a bit. If I was to leave the lever where it was, it would go to 2nd. If I don't move it that far, it will just hang in 4th and grind, not going to 3rd. It's kind of a quick down and back, but just a fraction of an inch.... You might give it a try next time out. I'm sure they all have there own personalities, you just have to figure out what works.
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