Best bike lock?
What's the BEST type of bike lock (that is most resistant to cutting)? Is it a hardened steel shackle? A Kevlar cable? Are there any that are nearly impossible to cut? Thanks.
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Do a forum and internet search. This info is easily available and the details get complex. But basically: a good chain (hardened hex links) or U Lock is best. But that "good" takes some defining. So do the search and read the threads.
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Look into the Kryptonite and Master Lock brands. Kryptonite makes a hardened steel chain with a bombproof looking padlock for about $75.00. However, considering that car thieves defeat car locks and alarms, be aware that any lock, given enough time, cutters, freon -or whatever theives use -can be defeated.
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Originally Posted by BikeHealth
(Post 10197301)
Are there any that are nearly impossible to cut? Thanks.
Depending on how much money you want to throw at the problem, you could go all the way to a Kryptonite M-18WL U-lock plus a Kryptonite New York chain/lock. An oxy-acetylene torch will still make short work of them, or what they're attached to, so never say never. If theft is a severe problem, consider getting a cheap "beater" bike and uglifying it with duct tape and spray paint, or get permission to park the bike indoors in a secure location. |
Sometimes you can solve 2 problems at once.
Most places today, at least in the US, have dog leash laws. So leash your pit bull to your bicycle. |
Originally Posted by BikeHealth
(Post 10197301)
What's the BEST type of bike lock (that is most resistant to cutting)? Is it a hardened steel shackle? A Kevlar cable? Are there any that are nearly impossible to cut? Thanks.
OnGuard LS (long shackle) Brute 5000 It's a great lock if you don't mind its weight of a couple of kg. And I agree with the other guys... don't even contemplate getting a cable lock. I chomped through one (of my own!) with two bites from a mini bolt-cutter in around 5 seconds. I guess like a lot of stuff, you gets what you pays for with bike locks. I'd see 10—15% of the bike's cost as reasonable for a lock. Cheers. |
All locks can be defeated given sufficient time, as the others have stated. Grant Peterson of Rivendell Bicycle Works claims to have done significant research and that the Abus lock is the hardest to defeat quickly.
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Originally Posted by gamecock
(Post 10209819)
All locks can be defeated given sufficient time, as the others have stated. Grant Peterson of Rivendell Bicycle Works claims to have done significant research and that the Abus lock is the hardest to defeat quickly.
But I have the best lock going- it is either my hand or my butt. As long as one of those is on it- it will not be going walkies. |
Originally Posted by BikeHealth
(Post 10197301)
What's the BEST type of bike lock (that is most resistant to cutting)? Is it a hardened steel shackle? A Kevlar cable? Are there any that are nearly impossible to cut? Thanks.
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Cordless tools with the right cutting blade/wheel will now cut through any U-Lock.
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Originally Posted by geo8rge
(Post 10281290)
Cordless tools with the right cutting blade/wheel will now cut through any U-Lock.
Cables are easy to cut, but it's usually not worth a criminal's time to cut a cable for a front wheel (unless the bike is left outside overnight). Just make sure to lock your bike to something immoveable, and to lock up your wheels (and seat if you've got a Brooks or anything with a quick release seatpost). A cable lock (no matter how thick) as a primary lock is basically a signal that you're tired of owning your bike and that it's time for it to go to a new owner. |
Whatever lock you get, you need to make sure your bike is locked "properly."
This page has 3 links to information about properly locking a bike. I use a beater bike around town and lock it with a U lock and a cable lock at places where it is observed by humans. Ray |
Smack 'im around a bit: :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IayYsG0xP5A There's also the saying that "every bike weighs 40 pounds." If the bike is a big, heavy, old beast, not many people would want it, so a small chain or cable would suffice. If it's a 15-lb racing bike, it's a lot more attractive, so you'd need 25 lbs of locks to keep it safe. ;) Since locks aren't 100% secure, think of them as deterrents. Get something that appears to be a big enough pain in the ass to cut or remove, lock up to something similarly beefy (if there's no rack, use a tree or lamp post, not a No Parking sign), and that's about all you can do. |
Originally Posted by mechBgon
(Post 10199484)
Cables are weak, so avoid using them as a primary lock. . . .
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http://www.lockitt.com/chain5.htm
I just bought the Beast #5017, its about 9-10lbs, for $55 on sale down from $100. It fits PERFECTLY around my waist, as a belt. I've only used it a few times when I'm leaving the bike out for a long time, or out bar hopping. I'm sure it confuses people as it locks up my FG bike most of the time, which was free to me. Well I bought the flip flop wheel. I like to know my transportation is going to be there when I get back, no matter its cost. Other then that, a quality U-lock works great. I use one for quick runs to the store or other errands. |
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