Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    62
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Preferred geometry for upright seating position?

    I'm thinking of putting together a road bike with an upright position that is easier on the neck, back, and groin. (something along the lines of VO Portuer or Nitto Promenade handlebars). I've seen setups like this on a Surly Steamroller, which has fairly aggressive road geometry. My intuition is that most road frames, intended for a more aero position will not be ideal, but I'm not sure, so I'm asking. Is a different geometry ideal, or should I just build on a road frame?

    Some thoughts:

    It seems that upright position will transfer weight to the rear wheel, so a longer chainstay/wheelbase will be ideal to balance things out. Therefore I've been looking at some touring frames. But these are overkill for the kind of riding I'm doing (short commutes withouth much to carry).

    (Note: I'm also wanting CroMo, horiz top tube, and horiz dropouts)

  2. #2
    Senior Member CNY James's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    My Bikes
    2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL
    Posts
    809
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    get an old mtb frame and build on that, that will make it easy to find what you're looking for and mtb geometry by design tends to be more upright.

  3. #3
    A guy who rides bikes Aaron_F's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Posts
    448
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    How about just buying a road bike and putting a tall, shortish stem on it?

  4. #4
    Gouge Away kaliayev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    BFOH
    Posts
    971
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    In my area there are tons of older steel Schwinns for cheap. The Traveler, Collegiate, etc, should prove exactly what you are looking for. Relaxed geometry, long chainstay, and steel frame should make a pretty comfy ride. Most also came with standard brazeons.

  5. #5
    Senior Member BlazingPedals's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Middle of da Mitten
    My Bikes
    Trek 7500, RANS V-Rex, Optima Baron, Velokraft NoCom, M-5 Carbon Highracer, homebuilt recumbent
    Posts
    7,341
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    An upright seat position transfers more weight to the rear, but also transfers weight to your groin. So along with a longer wheelbase, you'll need a bigger seat.


  6. #6
    Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped. BarracksSi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
    Posts
    13,858
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You should be able to build most road frames so that the bars are level with the seat, or at least close enough. The wheelbase isn't a concern when it comes to weight distribution. Touring frames' longer chainstays help with stability when loaded, yes, but they also move panniers farther away to eliminate heel strike.

    Then there's the other extreme -- going a lot lower for more comfort. There was another BF'er who, after consulting with his shop, eventually dropped his bars pretty low after trying to raise them in search of a comfortable position. What he noticed was that his core muscles started carrying the weight of his torso, reducing the weight felt by his arms. It also took the load off of his shoulders, so his upper back and neck weren't drooping between his shoulders -- which also reduced the pain he was feeling in his neck.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    IL-USA
    Posts
    1,611
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Go look at the RANS crank-forward bikes. They are what you're asking for.
    ~

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    62
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the suggestions. After looking around, the Rivendell bikes seem to be designed with this in mind: road riding in a comfortable, upright-ish position. They have long chainstays and shallow seat tube angles. The low bottom bracket is appealing too.

    Are there any other builders taking a similar approach to their designs?

    If not, it seems vintage may be the only affordable way to go (e.g. older Schwinns).

  9. #9
    Gouge Away kaliayev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    BFOH
    Posts
    971
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A high number of touring bikes have a more upright position.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    1,253
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A touring bicycle would be a good place to start.

    I recently put a Nitto Technomic stem on my C'dale tourer. My handlebars are now practically level with my seat - and I run gobs of seatpost.
    1993 Cannondale T700 - 1994 Specialized Rockhopper - Actionbent T1 (Electrification in progress!)

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    62
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My concern with a touring bike is that the tubing diameter and thickness will be much more than I need for my unloaded, usually paved, relatively short rides... but maybe that's not really a big deal.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •