Painting a rusted steel rim
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Painting a rusted steel rim
Am I better off sanding the rim brake surfaces and living with the pitting or is it a good idea to repaint the surface. The wheels were originally unpainted steel.
Is there a better paint for doing this? The current wheel has much of the paint worn away by braking, revealing the rusted surface underneath.
Is there a better paint for doing this? The current wheel has much of the paint worn away by braking, revealing the rusted surface underneath.
#3
Fax Transport Specialist
paint and/or rust both sound bad as a braking surface. +1 for new wheel.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You guys are made of money. This is an old beater that I use for local errands. It's a five year old Roadmaster from Wallyworld that I pulled from a dumster. I'll probably sand the old paint and rust off and then see how it works.
#5
Fax Transport Specialist
sounds like you got your money's worth and it's time to move on? Check craigslist for a cheap wheel or another bike you can use for parts.
#6
phony collective progress
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Hoosey
Posts: 2,973
Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/36663
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
There's a reason that steel rims are mostly extinct. Not only are they heavy and prone to rust, but it makes for a terrible braking surface, especially when wet. Sanding is going to make the steel rust faster, and the paint will be quickly eaten away by the brake pads.
Either look on craigslist in your area for a wheel/wheelset/new bike, or find a LBS that deals in used parts or a bike co-op. You'll be able to find a much safer wheel for not much money (or maybe even free).
Either look on craigslist in your area for a wheel/wheelset/new bike, or find a LBS that deals in used parts or a bike co-op. You'll be able to find a much safer wheel for not much money (or maybe even free).
#7
Full Member
If it's rusted bad it may not be safe. It its just surface rust that looks bad clean it off. It might be worth keeping an eye out at local thrift stores for another similar bike. Take the best parts from both make one good bike and use remianing for emergency/spares.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You misunderstand. I've only had the bike for two weeks. Did a bunch of work to get it back on the road so I will either fix or replace the wheel.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 809
Bikes: 2010 Felt F5, 2010 Dawes SST-AL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
you got the bike for free, a cheapy wheel at your LBS shouldnt be more than $75. Quite a bargain to have a safe & ridable bike for $75. And I'm not made of money.
in the meantime maybe try to sand it off or just live with it?
in the meantime maybe try to sand it off or just live with it?
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I did sand it and it seems ok. The braking is decent for a bike that is just a grocery getter and will probably never see over 12 mph - I'm 60 years old and won't be doing any high speed riding.
#11
Caustic Soccer Mom
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Millstone WV
Posts: 1,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I can see your point, but how much would a 12 mph crash cost your body if your rusted, sanded, painted wheel or brakes FAILED? Look around for a used wheel without the rust thing. SAFETY 1st!! No cracks in the helmet, either!
__________________
As with mud, life, too, slides by.
As with mud, life, too, slides by.
#12
Powerful-Ugly Creature
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 569
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Find the most durable rattle can stuff, you can find. I'm thinking engine paint, but I'm no expert. Sand all the old paint and rust off, then hit it with some really fine grit paint. Then, replace your brake shoes with some clear BMX shoes. They're made for painted and powder coated rims.
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clermont, Florida
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm a pocketknife fanatic, and have restored many a rusted blade with Naval Jelly. It removes rust and leaves the steal plain, which is perfect for what you need. If you already sanded it, the grooves you put on the rim from the sand (the scratches) will allow moisture to sit in it and rust it again. However, get some naval Jelly for a couple of bucks at your local hardware store, Wally world, or home depot, and apply it to the rim if rust appears again. It'll be all good.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This sounds like people who say go easy on the safety inspection on their vehicles because their wife only uses it to run errands such as driving the kids around town
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,138
Bikes: 2 many
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1266 Post(s)
Liked 323 Times
in
169 Posts
Am I better off sanding the rim brake surfaces and living with the pitting or is it a good idea to repaint the surface. The wheels were originally unpainted steel.
Is there a better paint for doing this? The current wheel has much of the paint worn away by braking, revealing the rusted surface underneath.
Is there a better paint for doing this? The current wheel has much of the paint worn away by braking, revealing the rusted surface underneath.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
Last edited by gldrgidr; 05-16-10 at 10:16 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,138
Bikes: 2 many
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1266 Post(s)
Liked 323 Times
in
169 Posts
I've been riding steel for years so I know to avoid rain, wet roads, wet grass, etc.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
As long as you know, you can always compensate for it.
#19
phony collective progress
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Hoosey
Posts: 2,973
Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/36663
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
That said, if you know the risks and choose to ride the bike as-is anyway, that's your choice and your freedom.
For what it's worth, my beater, around-town bike's newest, non-consumable component dates from somewhere in the 80s, the oldest from the early 70s. Nothing about it is "new and high-priced," but it is functional and safe.
#20
Senior Member
My observation is that most steel rims were chrome-plated, and that the chrome can be cleaned with steel wool. It may rust again, but it's just surface rust and won't affect the integrity of the rim until the chrome is gone. If that describes your wheels, then clean them up with steel wool. If not, can't you find another dumpster special that uses the same size wheels, and just take the wheels?
#21
Pedaled too far.
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Petite Roche
Posts: 12,851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
Just remember that steel wheels ... If you plan to run errands in the rain dump the whole bike and get one with aluminum rims.
__________________
"He who serves all, best serves himself" Jack London
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,138
Bikes: 2 many
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1266 Post(s)
Liked 323 Times
in
169 Posts
I've been riding steel for years so I know to avoid rain, wet roads, wet grass, etc.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
#24
Powerful-Ugly Creature
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 569
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I assuming that most of the complaints about the braking on steel rims is directed towards chrome plating. While not steel, chrome rims were popular in BMX until well into the 90s, due its superior braking performance. When dry, chrome is the best braking surface out there.
My own experiences with chrome plated rims (both steel and aluminum) is that even when wet, effective braking can still be achieved, with a good set of brakes. Of course, with good brakes, chrome rims aren't really necessary.
I can't comment on painted rims. I've never ridden on them.
My own experiences with chrome plated rims (both steel and aluminum) is that even when wet, effective braking can still be achieved, with a good set of brakes. Of course, with good brakes, chrome rims aren't really necessary.
I can't comment on painted rims. I've never ridden on them.
#25
Homey
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 13,518
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2424 Post(s)
Liked 1,391 Times
in
891 Posts
I've been riding steel for years so I know to avoid rain, wet roads, wet grass, etc.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
As far as avoiding safety inspection, with new shoes and correct adjustment, at speed, I can apply full brakes and almost be thrown over the handlebars. Believe me, the brakes still work.
We live in a culture where everything has to be new and high priced to be considered safe. With proper setup and maintenance there are many older bikes which can provide good transportation.
My next suggestion would be to use the money otherwise spent on a new wheel and invest in a helmet, mouth guard, body pads, thick gloves and insurance.