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  1. #1
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    1" threadless fork question

    Does anybody know if anyone makes a 1" treadless fork with disc tabs? for 26" wheels i havent found much with google

  2. #2
    Senior Member commo_soulja's Avatar
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    Sorry, I don't think it exists unless you go custom. Looks like you're stuck with the original What frame is it for?
    Mythical Creatures Touched Me in my Bathing Suit Area.

  3. #3
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    its a mid 90s raleigh m-80 i was just thinking about going a different way with it i figured i already changed it over to a threadless fork maybe a disc one exsists, but i guess not

  4. #4
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fizzaly View Post
    its a mid 90s raleigh m-80
    i have one of those too. i switched out the suspension fork for a rigid one a couple years ago because i turned the bike into a hybrid back-up commuter for myself, but i had no need/want for disc brakes. i'm still rolling with the original cantis and levers the bike came with.

    here's mine with the new rigid fork. does yours have a similar fade paint job?


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-26-10 at 04:22 PM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  5. #5
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    it used to it was more like purple on top fading down to red. i like yours very sharp, i was just thinking about trying something new. Heres mine in its current state

  6. #6
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    ^ nice. i ike the drop bar conversion. i have thought about switching out my flat bars for something else, but that would also require new shifters and break levers, and probably a new rear derailleur too, and then a new cassette, and a new chain too, and then. . . . . . . . so i'm still rolling with the original flat bar and stem the bike came with. i might simply solve the hand position problem with some fancy extended bar ends, perhaps even slap some aero bars on as well. aero bars on a 29 lb. 14 year old MTB? yeah, that's pretty dorky.
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-27-10 at 11:19 AM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  7. #7
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    hey man when it comes to these old raleighs nothings dork this old bird has been getting me around for about 5 years, ive converted it back and forth numerous times she been like four diff. colors. I did have a question though what year is yours i noticed that your cable routing is on top, while mines on the side? I guess it could be poss. that mines not an m-80 its been years since ive seen the original bike.

  8. #8
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fizzaly View Post
    I did have a question though what year is yours i noticed that your cable routing is on top, while mines on the side? I guess it could be poss. that mines not an m-80 its been years since ive seen the original bike.
    the cable placement difference was the first thing that jumped out at me too. but other than that, the frames do look to have identical geometries as far as i can tell.

    i believe i got mine in 1996, think the price was around 600 bucks or so.

    and yeah, mine has been a great bike for me as well over the years, a real tried and true work horse.
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-27-10 at 11:12 AM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  9. #9
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    after some research i think mines a 94 m-50 cant find pics just going by described colors purple to magenta fade but who knows i dont really care just seeing yours made me wonder

  10. #10
    born again cyclist Steely Dan's Avatar
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    ^ i was doing some research as well and it seems that 1995 was the first year that the M-80 version was available. first in cro-mo for the first several years, and then switching to aluminum in 1998. also, all M-80s (regardless of year) originally came with suspension forks, so if your bike came with a rigid fork, it had to be a M-60 or lower.

    the research i found also said that 1996 was the first year that oversize tubing was used on these raleigh frames, but your frame has the same fat down tube that my frame has, so that makes me curious. are you sure yours is a '94?

    EDIT: conflicting info out there, another source says 1995 was the first year oversize tubing was used for this line of raleigh steel frames. so who knows? "mid-90s Raleigh M-60/M-50/M-40" is close enough
    Last edited by Steely Dan; 08-27-10 at 12:34 PM.
    The first rule: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

  11. #11
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    oh by no means am i sure, more like a semi educated guess i probably wont figure it out unless i find a serial # cheat sheet

  12. #12
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    all right according sheldon browns serial number info it for sure is a 95 and im sticking with m-50 now

  13. #13
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I use a drum brake hub to have an all weather stopping bike,, a Sturmey Archer Elite, UK made , alloy 70mm drums,

    they have been trouble free for 25 years.

    New SA Brand owners Sun Race have Updated the Drum brake hub into new models, a Cassette rear and a dynamo front included with the brake.
    as well as several drum IGH combos..

  14. #14
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    I use a drum brake hub to have an all weather stopping bike,, a Sturmey Archer Elite, UK made , alloy 70mm drums,

    they have been trouble free for 25 years.

    New SA Brand owners Sun Race have Updated the Drum brake hub into new models, a Cassette rear and a dynamo front included with the brake.
    as well as several drum IGH combos..
    ive been thinking about those as well, i took it on a partially loaded weekend ride and i was not impressed with the braking down hill since ive tried diff V and canti with diff pads just not getting the performance i want and that was dry. makes me super worried i want to ride through wyoming and colorado this fall and im bound to hit some foul weather

  15. #15
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I'm running traditional Campag brake levers, on mustache bars , Brifters dont pull much cable, the actuating lever on my drum brakes stops OK,

    but Ideally , need more cable pull.. V brake levers would be better.. road you got cane creek or Tektro..

    Have you considered a cantilever set like Pauls, Neo retro front and Touring rear, + kool stop salmon pads ..

    wont need the 'travel agent' widget then ..

  16. #16
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    i stole my buddies brakes off his LHT im not sure what they where what ever comes stock with no better luck, im actually gonna buy a new set of V's im gonna try a higher dollar model instead of just trying the cheaper models the best set ive had work was a set of Bmx V's but they wont clear fenders.

  17. #17
    Stealing Spokes since 82' Fizzaly's Avatar
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    I forgot that i ordered them but they came in today two new sets of pads im gonna try them out, according to the website they should work better, i think part of my problem is ive been using an old style of pads that were not really designed for the way newer rims are machined (with the little grooves) these ones are also a lot longer, so maybe those to contributing factors are why my braking performance was underpar ill find out later today.

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