Gearing
08-30-10, 05:31 PM
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Gearing
Just got a new bike about a month ago. Its got an Ultegra 6700 11-28T.
What does the 11-28T mean? I know that indicates the rang of the gears on the cassette, but not sure what the difference is between that and say... a 12-25?
What does the 11-28T mean? I know that indicates the rang of the gears on the cassette, but not sure what the difference is between that and say... a 12-25?
08-30-10, 05:34 PM
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Go for a ride and do 10 minutes in each cog.
11 would be for a top mph ride.
28 for riding up a steep hill.
11 would be for a top mph ride.
28 for riding up a steep hill.
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08-30-10, 05:46 PM
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Its the amount of teeth on the cog. Count the teeth on the smallest and largest cog. Smallest will have 11 teeth.. largest should be 28 teeth. The large cogs are used for goin up hill... the small ones are used at high speeds.
The amount of teeth on the cogs is usually a personal preference and or depends on if the terrain you will be on is flat or has hills.
The amount of teeth on the cogs is usually a personal preference and or depends on if the terrain you will be on is flat or has hills.
Last edited by o0adam0o; 08-30-10 at 05:52 PM.
08-30-10, 05:50 PM
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My road bike has a 50-39-24 in the front (chain rings) and a cassette 9 speed (9 cogs) with a 11-34 ( the rear)
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08-30-10, 05:55 PM
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For all other than the most causal rider one must know and understand the gearing on their bike (s).
https://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/touring/gears.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing
https://demonstrations.wolfram.com/Bi...OfDevelopment/
https://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/gears1.html
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Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
08-30-10, 05:57 PM
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This is the difference between those cassettes:
11-28t (11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28)
12-25t (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25)
I would consider the former a climber's cassette, and the former a general all-around cassette.
11-28t (11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28)
12-25t (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25)
I would consider the former a climber's cassette, and the former a general all-around cassette.
08-30-10, 06:41 PM
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The difference between the 11-28 and the 12-25 is that on the 11-28 the high gear (11) will be higher and the low (28) will be lower. This assumes the chainrings are the same between the two setups, of course. Since the high and low are further apart with the 11-28, something in between will have to be spaced out just a bit further apart.
Now, is that significant??? Ah! Ultimately you will learn what is important to you. Since you are just starting you really can't judge one way or the other for your own riding. However a 28 is noticeably lower than a 25. For most riders, especially those just beginning, unless you ride on totally flat terrain it is more important to have the extra low when you need it than to have the extra high, so from a practical standpoint that lower low is the key.
If you ask in BF (which you did), especially Road Cycling (which you had the good sense not to
), you will get all kinds of answers mostly skewed toward going faster and being pickier. For example, if the middle cogs on the 11-28 jump from, say 17 to 19 instead of 17 to 18, some riders will always wish for the missing 18, can't possibly ever ever even think about riding more than 10 miles without that 18. They'd die or be lost, dropped from the back of the paceline without it, probably have to walk home. Oh, the horror, the shame of it all. 
In a competitive situation that difference matters. But plenty of people ride without it. Without that missing 18 the most you can be off from what you'd really like is one tooth, assuming your really needed exactly the spot in the middle of the available gears. That means your cadence (i.e. pedal rotation rate) will be "wrong" by only 2.78% too high or too low. Instead of spinning at 100rpm you'd have to spin at 103 or 97. (For some perspective, some of us still ride with a jump from 17 to 20 in that range. I figure if I can't accommodate some deviation in cadence then I'm not much of a rider. Yeah, I know, I'm tweaking a few noses!
)The point of all this is that there is a difference, but the only difference that matters for you and for most people is the low. So don't worry about it! Ride! Enjoy the bike!
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08-30-10, 09:21 PM
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Of course you got all the right answers except what you actually asked...
The difference between the 11-28 and the 12-25 is that on the 11-28 the high gear (11) will be higher and the low (28) will be lower. This assumes the chainrings are the same between the two setups, of course. Since the high and low are further apart with the 11-28, something in between will have to be spaced out just a bit further apart.
Now, is that significant??? Ah! Ultimately you will learn what is important to you. Since you are just starting you really can't judge one way or the other for your own riding. However a 28 is noticeably lower than a 25. For most riders, especially those just beginning, unless you ride on totally flat terrain it is more important to have the extra low when you need it than to have the extra high, so from a practical standpoint that lower low is the key.
If you ask in BF (which you did), especially Road Cycling (which you had the good sense not to), you will get all kinds of answers mostly skewed toward going faster and being pickier. For example, if the middle cogs on the 11-28 jump from, say 17 to 19 instead of 17 to 18, some riders will always wish for the missing 18, can't possibly ever ever even think about riding more than 10 miles without that 18. They'd die or be lost, dropped from the back of the paceline without it, probably have to walk home. Oh, the horror, the shame of it all.
In a competitive situation that difference matters. But plenty of people ride without it. Without that missing 18 the most you can be off from what you'd really like is one tooth, assuming your really needed exactly the spot in the middle of the available gears. That means your cadence (i.e. pedal rotation rate) will be "wrong" by only 2.78% too high or too low. Instead of spinning at 100rpm you'd have to spin at 103 or 97. (For some perspective, some of us still ride with a jump from 17 to 20 in that range. I figure if I can't accommodate some deviation in cadence then I'm not much of a rider. Yeah, I know, I'm tweaking a few noses! )
The point of all this is that there is a difference, but the only difference that matters for you and for most people is the low. So don't worry about it! Ride! Enjoy the bike!
The difference between the 11-28 and the 12-25 is that on the 11-28 the high gear (11) will be higher and the low (28) will be lower. This assumes the chainrings are the same between the two setups, of course. Since the high and low are further apart with the 11-28, something in between will have to be spaced out just a bit further apart.
Now, is that significant??? Ah! Ultimately you will learn what is important to you. Since you are just starting you really can't judge one way or the other for your own riding. However a 28 is noticeably lower than a 25. For most riders, especially those just beginning, unless you ride on totally flat terrain it is more important to have the extra low when you need it than to have the extra high, so from a practical standpoint that lower low is the key.
If you ask in BF (which you did), especially Road Cycling (which you had the good sense not to
), you will get all kinds of answers mostly skewed toward going faster and being pickier. For example, if the middle cogs on the 11-28 jump from, say 17 to 19 instead of 17 to 18, some riders will always wish for the missing 18, can't possibly ever ever even think about riding more than 10 miles without that 18. They'd die or be lost, dropped from the back of the paceline without it, probably have to walk home. Oh, the horror, the shame of it all. In a competitive situation that difference matters. But plenty of people ride without it. Without that missing 18 the most you can be off from what you'd really like is one tooth, assuming your really needed exactly the spot in the middle of the available gears. That means your cadence (i.e. pedal rotation rate) will be "wrong" by only 2.78% too high or too low. Instead of spinning at 100rpm you'd have to spin at 103 or 97. (For some perspective, some of us still ride with a jump from 17 to 20 in that range. I figure if I can't accommodate some deviation in cadence then I'm not much of a rider. Yeah, I know, I'm tweaking a few noses!
)The point of all this is that there is a difference, but the only difference that matters for you and for most people is the low. So don't worry about it! Ride! Enjoy the bike!
08-31-10, 08:55 AM
#11
Banned
Useful to see what the ratios work out in a pattern, to see how the math sorts out.
https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
