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Old 10-19-04, 03:09 AM   #1
jeff williams
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My bike got vandalized Lets go.
and anybody got a wheel for a brother? Raiyn nailed it as a rack problem.

I'll post my ideas later.
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Old 10-19-04, 03:23 AM   #2
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I agree with this:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
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Old 10-19-04, 03:51 AM   #3
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We should cover accidental, pedestrian traffic...sight lines, areas cutting would be really noticable. Unboltable signs are not to be used..( look at how the device you are anchored to is afixed) the fools who only lock the front wheel, how you MUST lock your rear wheel to frame 'cause it's worth so much more to replace than front.....
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Old 10-19-04, 10:50 AM   #4
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if your going to use your bike in a public place, for the love of god use ether thru-bolts or kryptonite skewers...something so the average tanner brat can't just flip a QR and leave with your wheel.

Also consider doing the same with your seat, swap out teh QR clamp with a bolt-clamp.

If you want to get real nasty, and use threaddless, use a diffrent head bolt on the stem..if your stem has 8 bolts, use 8 different bolts...make the theif suffer.

It's not jsut locks, but you have to worry about it all in some areas.

As far as the lock itself...back wheel and frame. I just run it through my rear rim while it's inside the rear triangle...do not just use it on the spokes....that's bad. The rim is hell to cut through, so your good. so long as it's inthe rear triangle, which also succeeds in locking the frame down. this is how I get away with using the regular kryptolok where most people can only use the LS.

Also pick your locking point carefully. I would go for a locking point that bends under heavy pressure rather than stiff....reason is it makes leverage attacks more difficult. street signs bend...so I often lock my bike up to parking signs and such. I only use a parking meter if it's in a well lit, well populated area, and I dont leave it for very long.
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Old 10-19-04, 12:23 PM   #5
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Always check the parking sign cannot be simply unbolted at the base, many are.

Location is so important, never hidden behind a wall, dumpster or such= you want a possible thief to be standing RIGHT in the sight of anyone if trying to steal.

I lock on the street, where it would be hard to hide what a thief was doing, i lock at my downtown police station if having to spend hours locked.

Short chain if using one, just enough for r-wheel, frame, pole. If a thief can get the bike\ lock to the ground= better chance to get leverage needed to chop locks.

Write down any ID key replacement # and file of lock, keys can be ordered, replaced by someone else.

Don't lock in peoples path, they might give your bike a kick for being so thoughtless.

Do not use simple wheel slot stands, the rings for lock anchor would be so easy to cut, the bikes are ofter pushed over and wheels bent by jerks.

All I can think of right now....I'll come up with some more.
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Old 10-19-04, 12:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff williams
...you MUST lock your rear wheel to frame 'cause it's worth so much more to replace than front.....
Actually, you do NOT need to lock the rear wheel to the bike frame. The U-locks/D-locks large enough to wrap around both the rear wheel and the frame are so large that they leave open space for prying tools. They are weaker against a prying attack than a smaller lock made with a shackle of the same diameter.

The lock that resists prying attacks the best is the smallest lock that will fit around your rear wheel and a standard bike rack. A "mini" lock with an open area of about 3 inches by 5 inches works well on a road bike. Just put the lock around the rear wheel directly behind the seat tube, about 22 inches from the ground and fasten it to a solid steel pole set in concrete. A crook can release the quick release and get the rear wheel loose, but both the wheel and frame remain attached to the pole.

The "best buy" mini locks are the OnGuard Bulldog Mini or OnGuard Ultimate Mini. Just two pounds, and when used properly, as secure as the four pound Kryptonite New York 3000 lock. Around $30 at neighborhood bike stores. OnGuard does not sell locks to discounters such as Wal-Mart, nor to E-Bay type internet discounters. They prefer to work exclusely with LBS operations.

On the front wheel, I use a bolt-on skewers instead of a quick release, and wrap a medium size cable lock through the front wheel and frame. Combining a U-lock with a cable lock forces the low budget crook to carry two sets of hand tools...and most crooks are rather lazy.

A Pro with power tools can open any lock. The only way to send a Pro after someone else's bike is with an unattractive bike, waaay too many locks, and a parking location that gives the crook zero privacy to get out his power tools.
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Old 10-19-04, 12:41 PM   #7
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I use hex out skewers instead of Q-release. A BF member has made a new axle hex that requires custom tool. I'll try to link.
The hex outs can be filled with hard glue, plaster, takes time to clean out.
The more time someone has to spend on stealing, the less it seems worth the risk.

I FOUND fully tamperproof replacement bolts for phil wood hubs good one bro, I may contact you.
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Old 10-19-04, 12:48 PM   #8
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Alan..."you MUST lock your rear wheel to frame 'cause it's worth so much more to replace than front....."

Not how, do...I use a chain and run to anchor, frame, tire. I just meant a front wheel is cheaper to replace. If you have an unguarded rim, make it the front.
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Old 10-19-04, 11:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff williams
Alan..."you MUST lock your rear wheel to frame 'cause it's worth so much more to replace than front....."

.
Quote:
People tend to buy the big clunky U-locks because they don't know how to use them properly. A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle.

Some will object that felons might cut the rear rim and tire to remove the lock. Believe me, this just doesn't happen in the real world. First, this would be a lot of work to steal a frame without a useable rear wheel, the most expensive part of a bike, after the frame. Second, cutting the rear rim is much harder than you might think. Since the rim is under substantial compression due to the tension on the spokes, it would pinch a hacksaw blade tight as soon as it cut partway through. Then there are the wire beads of the tire, also difficult to cut.
Need I say more?
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