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Join Date: Aug 2009
Bikes: Self-designed carbon fiber highracer, BikesDirect Kilo WT5, Pacific Cycles Carryme, Dahon Boardwalk with custom Sturmey Archer wheelset
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If possible, buy it in the right circumference for your wheel size instead of cutting it. Sanding, etc are remedies to fix the problem you'd create if you had to cut it.
I also wouldn't cement it to the tire. It will stick to the tube on it's own.
Just get the correct size, put it in, and if you run low pressures replace it before it starts to crack.
Originally Posted by fietsbob
I used the bench grinder to taper the ends.. but they still move against the tube with every rotation
so will abrade the tube in time, heavy thorn resistant inner tube will slow this.
I buy Schwalbe Marathon plus tires now. .. instead.
That's why I don't think you should use talc. Without talc the liner seems to get really well stuck to the tube and stays there, but with talc it can move and begin to abrade.
Problems I've had with tire liners are:
-I cut end to fit small diameter wheel and didn't taper end. End cut into tube.
-I removed tire liner. Road debris cut into tube.
-Switched to wider tires with same liners. Got puncture through side because liner was too skinny.
-Used extremely low pressure for winter traction. Noticed cracks in liner after a few years of use, but didn't replace. Cracks cut into tube.
I think a liner works better than a built in puncture layer because they can be like a football "defensive linebacker" and react to puncture threats: if a sharp object begins to penetrate then the liner moves further in to continue resisting the sharp point. The downside is that any movement will cause abrasion over time...so one needs to be mindful of things which may contribute to unnecessary movement such as excessive tire flexing at low pressures or lubricating powder.
Last edited by chucky; 03-09-11 at 12:17 PM.