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Old 04-07-11, 08:03 PM   #1
scale
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50 year old raleigh 3 speed....

man i just took mine out for the first time. (I picked it up last fall).....and i must say it rides pretty darn good. IT is a bit more up right than im typically used to but it was fun. I felt pompus....greasy and pompus the whole ride. Very slick machine. It is one of those old huffy sportsmans made by raleigh back in the 60s. THe back wheel is a bit tweeked and wavy but hey it goes. IT has about 50 years of barn dust on it but it adds to the look. The drive train is clean. IM debating on cleaning it or just riding it as is. Ill be repacking bearings etc but im a bit nervous about the cotters so i might leave the BB alone.
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Old 04-07-11, 08:19 PM   #2
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Old 04-07-11, 09:22 PM   #3
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Old 04-08-11, 12:59 AM   #4
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Cool! First bike I ever owned was a Raleigh 3-speed. My pop bought it for me used at a garage sale. I took apart and put it back together -- dad insisted we kids knew how to repair our own bikes. Took me the whole summer but I managed to get it working and there was only a couple of small parts left over. :-D Rode the hell out of it then traded it for a 3-speed Scout which I also took apart, painted dune buggy purple and rebuilt. I loved that bike. Pretty sure it's still in my parents' summer house garage. One of these days, I'm gonna go get it.
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Old 04-08-11, 04:20 AM   #5
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Need to head over to the C&V forum...and make sure to bring pictures FWIW I have a fair size queue of British 3 speeds, mostly Raleigh. Last count was around a dozen. They are great bikes, very durable and not too hard to work on. They also clean up very well.

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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
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"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
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Old 04-08-11, 05:33 AM   #6
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Does it have an AW hub or SW hub? Many of the Sportsmans I've encountered had the scarce "silent" SW rear hubs.
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Old 04-09-11, 07:45 AM   #7
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^ You mean the SW (seldom works) and the AW (always works)
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Old 04-09-11, 09:09 AM   #8
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^ You mean the SW (seldom works) and the AW (always works)
Never heard it put that way

SW was made from 1954-1960. AW from 1936-2001 (and beyond by Sunrace) I have never had an SW hub so can't comment on it, but I currently run close to a dozen AW hubs and have at least one with well over 30,000 miles on it, probably the best running of all the hubs I have.

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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
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Old 04-09-11, 10:59 AM   #9
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There's a reason one was made for a few years and the other 70+
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Old 04-10-11, 07:43 PM   #10
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Heh.

This weekend I overhauled not just one, not just two, but three Sturmey-Archer SW hubs. One was dated 3/57 and the other two were dated 2/58. Curiously, the 57 hub and one of the 58 hubs used the 2-piece indicator rod, while the other 58 hub used the more typical one-piece indicator. The insides of the 57 and one of the 58s (the 2-piece rod one) were pristine. The other 58 had lots of rust but it cleaned up nicely and should be fine when I get it back together again.
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Old 04-10-11, 09:00 PM   #11
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Is it hard to replace the little tiny chain thing that comes out of the hub and hooks to the cable? Mine appears to be a bit mangled like ti has been bent latteraly and one of the little pins might be bent. IT appears it might break at some point. I see they have them onsale online for about $3 so it seems you can replace them cheap. Looks like it might just thread in once it is disconnected.

Here is the part im talking about.

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22358460___118

ill have to check my hub to see if this is the right one but they have several for different models depending on what mine is.
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Old 04-11-11, 04:52 AM   #12
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Is it hard to replace the little tiny chain thing that comes out of the hub and hooks to the cable? Mine appears to be a bit mangled like ti has been bent latteraly and one of the little pins might be bent. IT appears it might break at some point. I see they have them onsale online for about $3 so it seems you can replace them cheap. Looks like it might just thread in once it is disconnected.

Here is the part im talking about.

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22358460___118

ill have to check my hub to see if this is the right one but they have several for different models depending on what mine is.
Not hard at all if it isn't broken off internally (seldom happens). It just unscrews from the hub. The one you need is dependent on the length of the axle.

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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
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Old 04-11-11, 06:23 AM   #13
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how do you determine the axel length? Is it the rear drop out spacing or do you go from one end to the other including the hollow nut where the chain goes in or is it just the shell size? I want to make sure im measuring correctly before ordering. IT is a AW from 10/63 from what ive gathered on the hub.
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Old 04-11-11, 02:14 PM   #14
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how do you determine the axel length? Is it the rear drop out spacing or do you go from one end to the other including the hollow nut where the chain goes in or is it just the shell size? I want to make sure im measuring correctly before ordering. IT is a AW from 10/63 from what ive gathered on the hub.
The easy way to determine which indicator rod you need is simply to bring the old one to your local bike shop and have them match it for you.
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Old 04-11-11, 03:09 PM   #15
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A neighbor of mine who knows I ride brought an old Raleigh 3-speed over a few months ago and asked if I could "just check it over for me." She's 72 and said she had one as a kid and wanted to start riding again. The driveline worked fine, but of course it needed bearings everywhere (hubs, BB, headset), new tires, cables and brake pads, all that stuff. I put on an old Avocet saddle I had around to replace the tattered and torn one that was on the bike. Spent part of two days on it, got it running great, polished it up and rode it down to her house. She's on Social Security, so I didn't protest when she gave me $5 for my trouble and expense.
This morning the bike's out in front of her house with a FOR SALE sign on it. If it weren't too small for me, I'd go buy it myself.
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Old 04-11-11, 06:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by scale View Post
how do you determine the axel length? Is it the rear drop out spacing or do you go from one end to the other including the hollow nut where the chain goes in or is it just the shell size? I want to make sure im measuring correctly before ordering. IT is a AW from 10/63 from what ive gathered on the hub.
Measure from one end of the axle to the other without the nuts on it. Or take the chain down to you bike shop, especially if it is an older one that has old parts in stock. FWIW a shorter one will work, but will throw the adjusting off a bit. I have done it in a pinch when I didn't have a spare of the correct size available.

Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
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Old 04-14-11, 10:29 AM   #17
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The Huffy Sportsman was a very nice riding bicycle as was the very similar Huffy Escape. I commuted with both of these for many years. They were flawlessly reliable and required very little maintenance.

The ride was silky smooth and confident.

Enjoy your ride. Be sure to lube the 3-speed hub with some Phil Woods oil. Better yet would be to flush the hub with solvent (kerosene or gasoline or mineral spirits: NOT water based), let dry, then re-lube.

Carry on.
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Old 04-14-11, 10:32 AM   #18
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A neighbor of mine who knows I ride brought an old Raleigh 3-speed over a few months ago and asked if I could "just check it over for me." She's 72 and said she had one as a kid and wanted to start riding again. The driveline worked fine, but of course it needed bearings everywhere (hubs, BB, headset), new tires, cables and brake pads, all that stuff. I put on an old Avocet saddle I had around to replace the tattered and torn one that was on the bike. Spent part of two days on it, got it running great, polished it up and rode it down to her house. She's on Social Security, so I didn't protest when she gave me $5 for my trouble and expense.
This morning the bike's out in front of her house with a FOR SALE sign on it. If it weren't too small for me, I'd go buy it myself.
Ya ya. Isn't that a kick in your center-of-gravity when you invest yourself into helping others and they take your two day labor of love an put a $25.00 price tag on it in a yard sale?

Been there, done that.
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Old 04-14-11, 02:22 PM   #19
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A neighbor of mine who knows I ride brought an old Raleigh 3-speed over a few months ago and asked if I could "just check it over for me." She's 72 and said she had one as a kid and wanted to start riding again.

KICK ASS! 72!!
Props to you too....You did a good thing!
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