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  1. #1
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    Road Calipers on MTB?

    Ok, I know most of you guys and gals have to be tired of my noob posts. Hopefully someday I will have as much knowledge as the rest of you.

    Anyways, my old 92 Trek 830's cantis are just a pain to adjust. And it seems when disconnecting to remove the wheel, and reconnecting they never seem to line back up like they did before, requiring more adjustment.

    I plan on getting a woodchipper bar, and already have brake levers for calipers or cantis, which is mainly why I am not throwing v brakes into the mix. I also plan on running cross brake levers as well.

    Currently building a rack for the inside of my wife's Xterra, and the bike will of course mount by the fork, and that would require constant adjustment of the canti.

    Are the road calipers any easier to adjust? Would they even mount to my bike? I am running 1.5" Panaracer Hi-Roads.

    I am looking at the Nashbar Road Calipers.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    If they even do work, looks like the long reach version is what I would need.

  3. #3
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    Hmm, looks like the holes that ARE in my fork/rear are too high to make this possible? Dangit. I would consider V Brakes, but I would have to switch out all brake levers, and I haven't been able to find any "cross" levers for V brakes cheap.

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    V brakes are pretty darned simple to adjust, if you take the time to learn how.

    If you have better things to do, pay a bike shop to maintain your bike.

    if you now want a road bike, go buy one... N+1 is always a good solution,
    and shopping for new bikes in bike shops is fun.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 05-07-12 at 12:15 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Well, I do like to tinker, but not when it is time to get on the bike and ride. Maybe I am just doing something wrong. When I unhook the cantilevers, remove the wheel, and reattach the wheel and cantilevers, should they be at the same adjustment that they were before without any playing with the settings?
    When I do this, they need additional adjustment, or does this come with the territory on all brakes? Everything is tight.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Flying Merkel's Avatar
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    Cantilever brakes can be a pain to set up, but it can be done. Once done, it doesn't need to be re-done for a long while. I'd reccomend getting the existing brakes working if you want cross levers. I have had the problem with removing a wheel & things not lining up again. Just need to fiddle with the straddle cable saddle a bit.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    You are dropping the tire into the fork so that it seats fully before locking the skewer down, correct? If you put it in the fork and its not seated all the way, the tire will be slightly cockeyed causing problems with brake alignment.

  8. #8
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    Yes, or I believe so. I had them fully adjusted, and the when I took the wheels off to change out tires, everything seemed to be off when I put thw wheels back on.

    I do have the cantis aligned pretty good right now and they work good, besides needing some kool stops. I guess I am just scared to remove the front tire if needed now because I have them set correctly

  9. #9
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Let the air out of the tire, then pump it up again, when it's back in.

    that is how I solve non QR brake issues.

    a Brake cable hanger with setscrews is made now, TRP..
    so the cable stays in the stirrup piece with the screws.
    you just un hook one end of the transverse cable..

  10. #10
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    Just so long you adjusted them with the front wheel fully seated in the fork dropouts, you should have no problem.

    A trick is not to lock your front skewer until you put the bike on the ground and gently bounce it to seat the front axle. Then while its on the ground and you have a little weight on the frame, lock the skewer and then set the brakes to the rim as it sits. From now on, you should be able to always seat your wheel firmly and when you lock the skewer down, the wheel and tire should always line up in the same spot. And make sure to always have the skewer handle be on the non-drive side of the bike as is the rear skewer.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
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    Thanks for the tips guys.

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