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  1. #1
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    U-Lock and Beater Bike Question ** PICTURES **

    Update: See post #4 (link) for 2 bikes in question.

    First of all, I do have a Specialized Hardrock 2010 (w/o disk) bike.

    I am looking to get a U-Lock for this bike, as well as two other beater bikes I am planning to get (for my friend and myself).
    What are your opinions on these U-Locks?

    1) http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kee...9687563&sr=8-2
    2) http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Standar...9687563&sr=8-3
    3) http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Ser...pr_product_top (Mini)

    I am also planning to get these locking skewers for the Hardrock:
    http://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/p...ea4615c70bac68 - any thoughts on these?

    As for a beater bike; I am a student, and here in OK it is fairly flat. I need something that will get me from A to B without any fuzz. I do not want to worry about people trying to steal it (as I might would have w/ the Hardrock...), and I will also use a U-lock on it when it is parked (even better).

    What kind of beater do you guys suggest? I want to find one (two actually...) preferably without any front- or mid shocks (as I have heard 'cheaper' bicycles with shocks have crappy shocks). I am thinking about spending about $50-60 or less per bike. Are there any good ones on Craigslist at the moment around Norman/OKC, or any other place?

    Thank you all for your input,
    - SpotOn
    Last edited by SpotOn; 06-18-12 at 04:04 PM.
    Good single speed / fixed gear on a budget? http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/952592-good-single-speed-budget-recommendations-welcome.html

  2. #2
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    My wife and I have a couple of mid-80s steel mountain bikes, no suspension, that we use around town, for vacations etc. I bought mine new in about 1985 or so, a Bridgestone MB-3, and it gradually slid from being my main bike to beater status. Her Hard Rock came from a thrift shop last year for $25 and didn't need anything but chain lube--it even had a Blackburn rack and a computer. Similar bikes are widely available around here at the Salvation Army etc. for less than $50. They're decent to ride, reliable, and not worth enough to steal, so you don't need a $150 lock.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotOn View Post
    As for a beater bike; I am a student, and here in OK it is fairly flat. I am thinking about spending about $50-60 or less per bike.
    First of all, I think that using a semi-disposable POS for a campus bike is smart. Try to park it among nicer bikes.

    $50-60 bikes are mostly a target of opportunity. Whenever you see one that looks like it's pretty much complete, buy it and don't sweat the details.

  4. #4
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    Opinions on these bikes?
    Will the pink ladies-one (or the silver one...) manage/able to have a 200 lbs on it for instance or/and more weight? How much will these bikes be able to handle? Are these decent brands? They both are $30 each.



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  5. #5
    Senior Member Jim Kukula's Avatar
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    As a general rule, I would take the Schwinn over the Huffy. But I don't know these specific models, and probably more important is to look at these specific bikes. $30 is a nice price for a beater. How are the tires? We bought a couple beater bikes for that kind of price and the tires were rotten. Not easy to replace, either! Look at the tires that are on the bikes & try to find the ERTRO size. It is nice to have a standard size. Real junk bikes can have strange sizes. Folks throw them into the trash before they replace the tires!

  6. #6
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    If you live in a major urban city, those locks will never do overnight. However, if you live in the 'burbs or a rural area with a low crime rate, statistically you should be alright. Of course, if you live within one mile of crackheads or meth addicts, all bets are off!

    If you're concerned about buying locks for those bikes you've posted, those posted locks should be just fine.

    Otherwise, get a New York Fahgettaboudit U Lock.

  7. #7
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    I think that you can probably do better as those are both probably walmart bikes. While they are not likely to get stolen I doubt you will enjoy riding them in the least especially since your other bike is a Specialized Hardrock.

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    double check the size on the pink bike, and are those 24" wheels? I think its a kids bike. you aren't kid sized are you? and I'd avoid the huffy out of general policy, then again it will never get stolen since even thieves know better....

  9. #9
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    Kids bike, meaning it won't handle the weight or too small frame? She said (over e-mail) that she is 5'7", but bought the bike from someone who was taller than her. I am 5'10", ~190 lbs and my friend about the same... She said that nothing is wrong with the bikes, and that they only need air.

    Here I thought I'd hit "gold."
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotOn View Post
    Kids bike, meaning it won't handle the weight or too small frame? She said (over e-mail) that she is 5'7", but bought the bike from someone who was taller than her. I am 5'10", ~190 lbs and my friend about the same... She said that nothing is wrong with the bikes, and that they only need air.

    Here I thought I'd hit "gold."
    frame size
    riding something that doesn't fit is no fun at all, too small -feeling all cramped up and knee aches
    too big -can't stop without cripping the reproductive organs

    comparing your height to that of the previous owner is usless if the previous owner was riding a bike the wrong size to begin with. no one's stated the frame size, but it sure does look small in the photo.

    A bike's frame size is measured from the bottom bracket (crank bearings) to the top of the seattube (where the seatpost clamp is)
    at 5'10" you probably want a 19"-21" frame.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Jim Kukula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xenologer View Post
    A bike's frame size is measured from the bottom bracket (crank bearings) to the top of the seattube (where the seatpost clamp is)
    at 5'10" you probably want a 19"-21" frame.
    In the good old days when bicycle top tubes were horizontal, that sort of measurement worked. Nowadays there is a bewildering variety of frame geometries!

    You could hold a straightedge horizontally from the top of the head tube over to the seatpost and mark the seatpost where the straightedge hits it. Then you could measure from that point down to the bottom bracket. That's would give you an equivalent to the classical frame size.

    The "virtual top tube" length is probably more important. That's the distance along that horizontal straightedge from the head tube to the seattube. You can raise and lower a seat easily, but stretching the handlebars away from the seat is not so easy.

    Mostly just get on the bike and ride it. Do you know what a properly fitting bike should feel like?

    I wouldn't worry about load capacity. Just keep the tires up around 60 psi or so, so you don't bottom out on potholes. Any bike ought to handle 200 pounds around town. Just don't go flying off ramps and other such stunts!

  12. #12
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Kukula View Post
    In the good old days when bicycle top tubes were horizontal, that sort of measurement worked. Nowadays there is a bewildering variety of frame geometries! [...]
    I told her to measure the length as shown in the two pictures here:





    Then I did my own drawing on the actual bikes for the lady to be certain on the measurements for her to measure:





    I hope this is the correct way, as I found that picture (on Stanford's website), and many others like it.

    The thing is, I am not physically located in the area as the bike(s) at the moment, and will not be until quite some time, therefore I cannot test ride it - both of them. At least I think that the Huffy looks good size wise. Is this a decent bike you think? She said that she would measure the frame sizes on them both later tonight or tomorrow, so I'll keep you posted.

    Thank you all for assisting me, as well as broadening my bicycle knowledge,
    - SpotOn
    Last edited by SpotOn; 06-18-12 at 06:34 PM.
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Jim Kukula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotOn View Post
    The thing is, I am not physically located in the area as the bike(s),
    oh, that is difficult!

    Here is a nice discussion:

    http://biketouringnews.com/what-size...-touring-bike/

    but if you're doing this remotely, I can't see any way to avoid a fair amount of risk.

  14. #14
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    Kryptonite rates their locks according to security level. I tend to buy their highest-rated locks even though I don't live in a high bike theft area like New York City, simply because buying a more expensive lock and deploying it accordingly is better than walking out and finding that your bike was stolen with a cheaper lock.

    And forget about a cable lock keeping your bike safe. It may stop the theft of your seat from the most unprepared opportunist, but it won't save your bike, even a beater bike, from a half-@ssed bike thief with some cable cutters.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Back in the olden days we used to say that "Every bike weighs 40 pounds." You can ride a 20 pound bike and carry a 20 pound lock or you can ride a 40 pound bike with no lock.

    I don't really think that's true because dishonest people will "borrow" even a beater bike and abandon it somewhere their destination. Even the crummiest bike needs at least a cheesy cable lock.

  16. #16
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    Here's her reply I got via e-mail when she measured the frame sizes:

    18" - men (Huffy Illumina)
    14" - women (Schwinn Side Winder 24)
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Jim Kukula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotOn View Post
    14" - women (Schwinn Side Winder 24)
    That Schwinn does seem to be for children, with 24 inch wheels. Almost certainly too small for an adult other than someone extremely short.

    If you're stuck with these alternatives. take the Huffy. Though even for $30 you should be able to find some other choices. Maybe talk them down to $20 for the Huffy!

  18. #18
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    The locking skewers ($3.99) listed in the first post (see picture below), are they hard to make? They are unfortunately out of stock in their webshop. Any other affordable locking skewers that are recommended?

    I have already ordered the U-lock (Kryptonite Series 2 w/ cable).

    Good single speed / fixed gear on a budget? http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/952592-good-single-speed-budget-recommendations-welcome.html

  19. #19
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    What do you think about this bike? $35 + $5 for transport (20 miles).

    http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/bik/3112631847.html
    Good single speed / fixed gear on a budget? http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/952592-good-single-speed-budget-recommendations-welcome.html

  20. #20
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    The 24" bike is only good for someone 5'0" or shorter. The Huffy, up to 5'9"-5'10", tops. (19-21" frames are only good for 5'10" if the rider has LONG legs!)

    As for the lock, choose door #2. Wally sells that set under the OnGuard brand, mine has lasted 3+ years; I gave it to my daughter when I got a Master Lock beast...!

    Wally also carries security skewers, Tranz-X, for about $20; they take a special tool, included with the 3-pc set. (also for the seatpost clamp....)

  21. #21
    Recreational Member SpotOn's Avatar
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    What about post # 19? The 19" frame on the Roadmaster for a total of $40. Take or leave?
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpotOn View Post
    What about post # 19? The 19" frame on the Roadmaster for a total of $40. Take or leave?
    For that price, if it rides well, and it fits, take it and don't look back!

    I would suggest that you get a Mongoose Sinsure Single Speed ~ $150
    Last edited by SlimRider; 07-21-12 at 08:00 PM.

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