Long rake fork
03-01-13, 01:52 AM
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Long rake fork
Anyone know where you can get long rake forks? I mean as in 50-60mm range. Threaded steel seems to be an obvious prereq. Thanks!
03-01-13, 10:45 AM
#2
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Hire one built for you by a framebuilder.. you want low trail ? or a chopper effect ?
a build for you will want to have the frame to design around , to get the steering feel you wish for.
a build for you will want to have the frame to design around , to get the steering feel you wish for.
03-01-13, 10:51 PM
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If you want to experiment, talk to a framebuilder. He'll have the tools and gauges to custom-build a fork.
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03-02-13, 07:32 PM
#4
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One of my favourite frame-builders, Dave Moulton wrote a couple of good articles on fork rake, trail and handling.
https://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com...f-history.html
https://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com...g-bicycle.html
Rake and trail are integrated with head-angle and wheelbase to determine a bike's handling. There's a strange criss-cross contradiction though. For any given frame & head-angle, as you increase fork-rake, trail decreases and the front-end gets more responsive and twitchier. However, increasing fork-rake also increases wheelbase. So you end up with a bike with a front-end that changes direction easily, but once it's leaned over in a turn, it doesn't want to carve as tight a line as before.
To rectify that oddity with a fork-rake change, I've removed head-tubes and milled the miter in the top & downtubes to increase the head-angle. This reduces the trail and wheelbase for quicker turn-in as well as steady-state cornering. No more Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde handling.
https://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com...f-history.html
https://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com...g-bicycle.html
Rake and trail are integrated with head-angle and wheelbase to determine a bike's handling. There's a strange criss-cross contradiction though. For any given frame & head-angle, as you increase fork-rake, trail decreases and the front-end gets more responsive and twitchier. However, increasing fork-rake also increases wheelbase. So you end up with a bike with a front-end that changes direction easily, but once it's leaned over in a turn, it doesn't want to carve as tight a line as before.
To rectify that oddity with a fork-rake change, I've removed head-tubes and milled the miter in the top & downtubes to increase the head-angle. This reduces the trail and wheelbase for quicker turn-in as well as steady-state cornering. No more Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde handling.
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 03-02-13 at 07:38 PM.
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