Surly Long Haul Handlebar Problems?
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Surly Long Haul Handlebar Problems?
Hi everyone,
I own a Surly Long Haul Trucker that was purchased new in November 2010. It is a 56" with 700 cc wheels. I have had persistent issues with wrist discomfort and hand numbness along with occasional shoulder pain when riding & persisting post-ride. I have been to see a well-regarded local fitter who has made adjustments to the bar positions, seat height, etc. over time. The issues have gotten better but not gone away. Most recently, I returned for adjustment of these issues and he said that the best thing to do might be to put on more ergonomic handlebars. His assertion is that the stock Surly handlebars are too straight and known to cause discomfort. What do people think of this? What might be a more wrist-friendly handlebar to use?
Thanks,
Neil
I own a Surly Long Haul Trucker that was purchased new in November 2010. It is a 56" with 700 cc wheels. I have had persistent issues with wrist discomfort and hand numbness along with occasional shoulder pain when riding & persisting post-ride. I have been to see a well-regarded local fitter who has made adjustments to the bar positions, seat height, etc. over time. The issues have gotten better but not gone away. Most recently, I returned for adjustment of these issues and he said that the best thing to do might be to put on more ergonomic handlebars. His assertion is that the stock Surly handlebars are too straight and known to cause discomfort. What do people think of this? What might be a more wrist-friendly handlebar to use?
Thanks,
Neil
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Bars are pretty cheap and easy to swap out. If you have tried everything else adjustment wise, this would be your next step. But I agree with PP, you might be doing something form wise on your ride causing your issue.
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Thanks for your response. I do try to keep elbows loose. However, I do wonder if a more ergonomic design might help my form on the bike by putting me in a more natural position. I am concerned the configuration of the stock handlebars may be making it harder for me to ride without locking my elbows. Thus, I ask what the most ergonomic drop bars that would work on a Surly LHT might be?
Best,
Neil
#5
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Maybe your frame is to big or stem too long? Either situation would cause you to be stretched out
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I really like these:
https://store.somafab.com/soma-portola-handlebar.html
more selection:
https://store.somafab.com/didrdrba.html
key point; bars that sweep outwards as they drop, more natural wrist angle
https://store.somafab.com/soma-portola-handlebar.html
more selection:
https://store.somafab.com/didrdrba.html
key point; bars that sweep outwards as they drop, more natural wrist angle
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Well, I have Salsa short & shallows on my Casseroll and I like them. But they really are typical drop bar shaped, but a shorter width and distance from too bar to drop curls, plus they have the "ergo" palm section in the curls.
I also have Salsa Woodchipper bars, they are more an MTB drop that splays out in the drops to a more natural hand angle. They also are a bit more shallow from top to drop, but wider width to make it a more casual type feeling instead of an aero type feeling. They definately feel more like MTB bars than road bars.
I also have Jones Loops. These are a nice upright alternative to drops with a nice natural angle and many hand positions. They are my winter bar setup, when wind and road isn't so much a factor as balance and comfort. I use the Woodchippers and Loops on my Pugsley.
I also have Salsa Woodchipper bars, they are more an MTB drop that splays out in the drops to a more natural hand angle. They also are a bit more shallow from top to drop, but wider width to make it a more casual type feeling instead of an aero type feeling. They definately feel more like MTB bars than road bars.
I also have Jones Loops. These are a nice upright alternative to drops with a nice natural angle and many hand positions. They are my winter bar setup, when wind and road isn't so much a factor as balance and comfort. I use the Woodchippers and Loops on my Pugsley.
#8
The Left Coast, USA
Frankly, maybe your problem is riding fitness/core strength. In your normal riding position if you release your hands do you fall forward? If you can't maintain your riding position for any distance without your hands, that's tells you how much pressure you are delivering to your wrists/hands/shoulders. Core strengthening?
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Maybe you could borrow a different stem from your fitter, with a different angle, which would lower the bars a bit? Give it a try- I'd bet it would help.
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I find that being stretched out (and forward) helps prevent locking the elbows -- it's too easy to lock up and lean on your hands when they're right under you.
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I concur with personal experience. When I'm forward and stretched out more on my (road) bike, my arms instinctively bend knowing that my shoulder blades would hurt if I didn't.
#12
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Consider Trekking Bars. The bike will need new brake levers and the bar end shifters will have to be remounted.
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Mark where your fitter has the seat now then try moving it forward on the rails a little, Also make shure your seat and bars are level (no drop-no rise) get a cheep stem if needed. If that does'nt work try a shorter stem to bring the bars closer or a short reach bar but keep the seat and bars level. If you go back to a fitter tell them you want your seat adjusted so you are directly over the spindle (no set back) and bars level with the seat and have them use a fit stem to play with the reach. That is the direction I would go on a touring bike during most fits. The more forward seat position and higher bars allows you more comfort, better control and spinning capiability for the extra weight you will have on the bike. Also keep in mind a fitter can get you close with your input but you may have to tweak your fit to get it perfect. Once you get one bike perfect the angles can be transfered to any bike of the same style without you even being there.
Last edited by bikem; 04-09-13 at 09:13 AM.
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Frankly, maybe your problem is riding fitness/core strength. In your normal riding position if you release your hands do you fall forward? If you can't maintain your riding position for any distance without your hands, that's tells you how much pressure you are delivering to your wrists/hands/shoulders. Core strengthening?
Is one ever really totally comfortable on a bike no matter how much you spend, and what you spend it on?
I worked very hard on my core strength this last winter and it's paying dividends when I ride and also when I get up out of the Lazy Boy...Look Ma, no hands! :-)
I'm with FrenchFit.....if your hands, wrists and shoulders hurt.... do crunches
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Mark where your fitter has the seat now then try moving it forward on the rails a little, Also make shure your seat and bars are level (no drop-no rise) get a cheep stem if needed. If that does'nt work try a shorter stem to bring the bars closer or a short reach bar but keep the seat and bars level. If you go back to a fitter tell them you want your seat adjusted so you are directly over the spindle (no set back) and bars level with the seat and have them use a fit stem to play with the reach. That is the direction I would go on a touring bike during most fits. The more forward seat position and higher bars allows you more comfort, better control and spinning capiability for the extra weight you will have on the bike. Also keep in mind a fitter can get you close with your input but you may have to tweak your fit to get it perfect. Once you get one bike perfect the angles can be transfered to any bike of the same style without you even being there.
If I move the seat forward, might that generate knee strain?
Thanks,
Neil
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Surly Troll, with NorthRoads handlebars mounted upside down.
My totally comfortable bike.
and I spent less on it compared to others that aren't as comfortable.
you just have to lose the fixation with drop bars and low stems.
#17
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My trucker is set up with a flat bar. the bike is new but, built on a frame the shop had a couple years . Which made my day because it is my favorite surly color
Roy
Roy
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