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  1. #51
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Just for laughs - I'll post this. Had a customer come in with a KMC corrosion resistant chain the other day. This guy is totally OCD and completely cleans and lubes the chain AFTER EVERY RIDE! Thing is - with 4,000km on the chain - there was absolutely NO MEASURABLE WEAR.

    The store manager was disgusted because normally that kinda milage usually means a new chain but I measured it and he conceeded defeat. The lube was oil based but the frequency and OCD cleaning probably counted for more.

  2. #52
    Been Around Awhile I-Like-To-Bike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    Just for laughs - I'll post this. Had a customer come in with a KMC corrosion resistant chain the other day. This guy is totally OCD and completely cleans and lubes the chain AFTER EVERY RIDE! Thing is - with 4,000km on the chain - there was absolutely NO MEASURABLE WEAR.

    The store manager was disgusted because normally that kinda milage usually means a new chain but I measured it and he conceeded defeat. The lube was oil based but the frequency and OCD cleaning probably counted for more.
    It would be interesting to know how much solvent/cleaning agent and oil was used, and more importantly, how much time was spent on this OCD activity in order to prolong the life of a cheap, easy to replace expendable component.

  3. #53
    Lover of Old Chrome Moly Myosmith's Avatar
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    Oh what the he!!, I haven't argued chain lube all week . . .

    Here is my personal choice



    I use it about once a week (200 miles or so) or after really sloppy rides. I've got 4,000 miles on my current chain and its nowhere near worn out according to my Park chain checker. Drive train stays pretty clean and chain and cassette only get an off the bike cleaning about twice a season. I've tried White Lightning and while it did the job, I didn't find it any better and my chain started making noise at just a hundred miles or so (but it was clean, I have to say that for WL).

    Even with oil based lubes, I think that most really dirty drive trains are caused by over lubing and not taking the time to wipe off excess. I spend a total of maybe 5-10 minutes a week to spot clean and lube the bike I ride 90% of the time so no OCD here.
    Lead, follow or get out of the way

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myosmith View Post
    Oh what the he!!, I haven't argued chain lube all week . . .

    Here is my personal choice



    I use it about once a week (200 miles or so) or after really sloppy rides. I've got 4,000 miles on my current chain and its nowhere near worn out according to my Park chain checker. Drive train stays pretty clean and chain and cassette only get an off the bike cleaning about twice a season. I've tried White Lightning and while it did the job, I didn't find it any better and my chain started making noise at just a hundred miles or so (but it was clean, I have to say that for WL).

    Even with oil based lubes, I think that most really dirty drive trains are caused by over lubing and not taking the time to wipe off excess. I spend a total of maybe 5-10 minutes a week to spot clean and lube the bike I ride 90% of the time so no OCD here.
    Dupont changed the formula and it's not good for chain anymore. Chain-Saver is better for chain, but Multi-Use lube is great for your cables.
    Last edited by linus; 05-31-13 at 09:37 PM.

  5. #55
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejeweler View Post
    Not sure where you see i was touting the Mobil 1 Gear Oil with mountain bikes? I thought it was clear, being set up as a fixed gear,....that i was using this bike as a daily commuter.
    First, you didn't tell us anything about the bikes you are using gear oil on. Second, I didn't say that you were using the gear oil on mountain bikes but that I have used high viscosity oils on mountain bikes and saw a higher wear rate while using them.

    Quote Originally Posted by joejeweler View Post
    I realize the Dean pictured IS a mountain bike frame,.....but certainly actual MTB useage is going to be much harder on ANY chain and lube. The grit gets in no matter what lube you use.
    Sorry but you are wrong about the grit getting into the chain no matter what chain lube is used. Dry lubes don't attract grit because there is nothing for the grit to stick to. Since the grit is the thing that wears the chain, less grit means less wear. Metal on metal wear happens, of course, but since most 'grit' is sand which is harder than the steel, any grit in the mechanism accelerates wear.

    Quote Originally Posted by joejeweler View Post
    I guess i'd rather spend my bike dough on things other than overpriced teflon dry lube and similar.
    Let's look at cost, shall we? White Lightning cost about $40 a quart. Mobil 1 cost about $25 a quart. Based on your original post, you apply it biweekly or weekly. To be generous, I'll say every 2 weeks. I apply White Lightning about every 6 weeks. Assuming that the amounts used are about the same, you are applying 3 times the amount of lube that I am. To put it in context, I would still be on my $40 quart of lube while you would be on your third bottle or, to put another way, I spent $40 on chain lube while you spent $75. Whose chain lubrication is expensive based on our preferred application rate?

    And that's not even including the cost of cleaning supplies for your daily wipe down, biweekly cleaning and monthly solvent cleaning. I clean my chain upon installation and don't clean it again. I don't have to clean the gloop off my frame after each ride nor do I have to clean the black goo off me or my clothes or anything else the chain touches.

    Quote Originally Posted by joejeweler View Post
    Last night i took the chain off my main ride (the fixie Dean) for it's monthly thurough cleaning in a solvent. Dried it out with compressed air at 80 lbs pressure, and added a small drop (more like half a drop) of Mobil 1 gear oil on the rollers, and wiped it all down and cleaned the cog and chainring of most of any slight runoff. Took all of 15-20 minutes.

    Looks pretty dry on the outside, but smooth running on the inside.
    Two weeks ago, I had to ride home in the rain. By the time I got home, the chain was dry (benefit of living in a dry environment) so I put the bike on the stand, lubed the chain, hung the bike on the hook in the garage and walked into the house. Total time: about 2 minutes including the walk to the house. Total time of actually lubricating the chain: about 10 seconds.
    Stuart Black
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    Two weeks ago, I had to ride home in the rain. By the time I got home, the chain was dry (benefit of living in a dry environment) so I put the bike on the stand, lubed the chain, hung the bike on the hook in the garage and walked into the house. Total time: about 2 minutes including the walk to the house. Total time of actually lubricating the chain: about 10 seconds.
    My experience is similar to yours, I much prefer the Teflon lubes (for my motorcycle as well as my bicycle). I find, however, that in the rainy winter the lube washes off and I get noisy chains and surface rust. I commute daily and I've switched to a gear oil/mineral spirit mix for winter which has the advantage of staying on for a month but all the disadvantages you already pointed out. Any tips for getting the dry lubes to work well in the winter? How often do you reapply?

  7. #57
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    Good thread, I learned a lot about lubes and tossed my "wet" Trek Teflon lube in favor of something that dries.

  8. #58
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbenjamin View Post
    My experience is similar to yours, I much prefer the Teflon lubes (for my motorcycle as well as my bicycle). I find, however, that in the rainy winter the lube washes off and I get noisy chains and surface rust. I commute daily and I've switched to a gear oil/mineral spirit mix for winter which has the advantage of staying on for a month but all the disadvantages you already pointed out. Any tips for getting the dry lubes to work well in the winter? How often do you reapply?
    I will say that dry chain lubes work best in areas like mine. We are dry here. Even in the winter time, our snows are relatively dry with a low water content. When it rains, it seldom rains for the whole day. That makes use of the dry lubes easier for me.

    I have used the Wet Ride lubricant a few times, however. It's not as oily as gear oil and worked well for me but, again, my weather isn't as wet as Redmond. My daughter lives in Seattle now. I'll ask her what she has been using.
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  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
    First, you didn't tell us anything about the bikes you are using gear oil on. Second, I didn't say that you were using the gear oil on mountain bikes but that I have used high viscosity oils on mountain bikes and saw a higher wear rate while using them.



    Sorry but you are wrong about the grit getting into the chain no matter what chain lube is used. Dry lubes don't attract grit because there is nothing for the grit to stick to. Since the grit is the thing that wears the chain, less grit means less wear. Metal on metal wear happens, of course, but since most 'grit' is sand which is harder than the steel, any grit in the mechanism accelerates wear.



    Let's look at cost, shall we? White Lightning cost about $40 a quart. Mobil 1 cost about $25 a quart. Based on your original post, you apply it biweekly or weekly. To be generous, I'll say every 2 weeks. I apply White Lightning about every 6 weeks. Assuming that the amounts used are about the same, you are applying 3 times the amount of lube that I am. To put it in context, I would still be on my $40 quart of lube while you would be on your third bottle or, to put another way, I spent $40 on chain lube while you spent $75. Whose chain lubrication is expensive based on our preferred application rate?

    And that's not even including the cost of cleaning supplies for your daily wipe down, biweekly cleaning and monthly solvent cleaning. I clean my chain upon installation and don't clean it again. I don't have to clean the gloop off my frame after each ride nor do I have to clean the black goo off me or my clothes or anything else the chain touches.



    Two weeks ago, I had to ride home in the rain. By the time I got home, the chain was dry (benefit of living in a dry environment) so I put the bike on the stand, lubed the chain, hung the bike on the hook in the garage and walked into the house. Total time: about 2 minutes including the walk to the house. Total time of actually lubricating the chain: about 10 seconds.
    Nope,....the Mobil 1 gear oil is LEFTOVER from when i serviced my 1982 Suzuki GS850GL shaft drive motorcycle a few years ago,......so to me i look at it as basically FREE. Not sure where you got that $25 price either,.....but i doubt i paid over $10-$12 for it a few years ago at Walmart.

    The 7 or so ounces left over will last me the rest of my biking life probably. (i'm 57 next year)

    Those small bottles of Teflon lube would be a direct ADDITION expenditure, and last i looked were $10-$12 for 5 or 6 ounces or so. (maybe $50 or so for 32 ounces or so)

    I don't clean any black goo off my cloths or body parts,.....that's what the paper towel is for when i do a wipedown afer initial application and after each ride.

    The paper towels i use are basically FREE also, as i save the ones i've used once form eating or drying my hands,.....and use them later to wipe down my chain. (once they have dried) I've also made use of the leftover napkins i get daily from eating out, and those have no cost to me. Usually i have 3 to 5 of these left over,....and only use 1 or 2 for the wipedowns.

    Frankly, i offered the initial post as a way to make use of the leftover gear oil someone might have laying around much like i did,.....after servicing a motocycle or car using it.

    Anyway,....i simply refuse to pay the HUGE markups on the small container drylube stuff. Were it priced where it probably should be ($3-$4),.....i might use it.

    ......but i'm sure the bike shops love you.
    Last edited by joejeweler; 06-10-13 at 02:39 PM.

  10. #60
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    http://www.lowes.com/pd_363773-39963...3652579&rpp=32

    $4 for a small bottle of chain specific dry lubricant and wet oils indeed leave black grime behind. I guess if you constantly clean the chain then the grime problem can be mitigated. To each his own, but I'm a big fan of dry chain lubes now.

  11. #61
    Duo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimi77 View Post
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_363773-39963...3652579&rpp=32

    $4 for a small bottle of chain specific dry lubricant and wet oils indeed leave black grime behind. I guess if you constantly clean the chain then the grime problem can be mitigated. To each his own, but I'm a big fan of dry chain lubes now.
    Interesting discussion. And probably worth giving dry lubes a try; getting tired of the old black nasty chains so i have been wiping the thing down a bit more lately. May just take the next step and see what a dry lube can do to improve the situation.

  12. #62
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I-Like-To-Bike View Post
    It would be interesting to know how much solvent/cleaning agent and oil was used, and more importantly, how much time was spent on this OCD activity in order to prolong the life of a cheap, easy to replace expendable component.
    I guess everybody needs a hobby! Some people collect stamps - some people play armchair coach in Internet forums. Don't sweat over the small stuff!

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