Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Portland, OR
    My Bikes
    1986 Fisher Montare, 1984 Ross Mt Hood, 1962 Schwinn American Deluxe
    Posts
    18
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Long term bicycle storage

    I'm in the process of downsizing as I prepare to move for a new job. I have a couple bicycles that I've restored and would like to keep, but I don't want to take them with me. I was thinking of hanging them in my parent's barn. Its dry and mostly temperature controlled.

    Before I take them to their house, are there any guidelines for storing them I should follow? The bikes could be there for up to 5 years. I was thinking they should get some sort of dust cover and I'm also wondering if I should take the cable tension off the derailleurs to preserve the spring mechanism there? Anything else I'm missing?

  2. #2
    Senior Member rydabent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Lincoln Ne
    My Bikes
    RANS Stratus TerraTrike Cruiser
    Posts
    3,890
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think you have the right idea. Dry especially, not in a damp basement. And a dust cover would be a good idea.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    My Bikes
    2013 Trek 1.2
    Posts
    76
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would insure the dust cover breaths. A greenhouse effect on the bike would not be good.

  4. #4
    Senior Member TromboneAl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Far, Far Northern California
    My Bikes
    1997 Specialized M2Pro
    Posts
    2,866
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm interested in this, since my daughter's bike just hangs from the ceiling except when she visits once a year or so. But I live right by the ocean, and the air is always humid and salty.

    I wonder if you should coat all the metal surfaces with WD-40? That's what it was designed for (http://wd40.com/about-us/history/):

    In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

    It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40®—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.
    My Book: Drive, Ride, Repeat: The Mostly-True Account of a Cross-Country Car and Bicycle Adventure

  5. #5
    Senior Member jowilson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Mesa, AZ
    My Bikes
    1992 Trek 800 Antelope, 1971 Triumph
    Posts
    561
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'll agree with Al's post above because you are living in Oregon where the air is moist and rust is common. I find that WD-40 has a reputation for also gathering losts of dust if not covered, so DEFINITELY cover these bikes immediately after covering them with WD-40.

    Also, this is very important: TAKE OUT THE SEAT POSTS. If you let them sit for too long, they will cold weld to the bike frame and become nearly impossible to get off. That's not say it isn't possible, but you don't want to deal with getting a stuck seatpost out; it sucks, it's time consuming, and some methods for removal are toxic and bad for the bike frame.
    The sun'll come out tomorrow.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northern Nevada
    Posts
    3,747
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think you're worrying too much. Hang them up where it's dry, move the shifters so there's no tension on the cables and cover them with an old sheet or something. The tires will deflate themselves over time (you'll have to replace them in five years anyway). Pulling the seat post can't hurt, or you could grease it and leave it in (pulling it does stop condensation in the tubes). Treat the leather, if any, and maybe use ArmorAll or something on the rubber and plastic parts, though I'm not convinced that really does any good (it makes things look better; I don't know that they live longer).
    I used to have a friend who collected and restored old bikes, and we rescued many that had been in barns and garages, sometimes for decades. The soft parts age and crack, the hard parts don't if they don't get wet.

  7. #7
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Brighton UK
    My Bikes
    20" Folder, Road Bike
    Posts
    1,664
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi,

    +1 on WD40 on pretty much everything including down all the cables.

    Do all the spokes and it really won't do any harm to the tyres.

    The tyres should still be fine in 5 years time.
    The only things I know that kill tyres is UV exposure and ozone.

    Although it seems you are going to store them complete, the best
    way is to disassemble, e.g. the brakes, headset etc and get WD40
    everywhere, and then put it back together. WD40 will also be fine
    for the seattube - alloy tube and a steel frame is the worst case.

    Its probably best to leave all fastenings barely tight.

    Slap it on everywhere - and plan on a restrip, a good clean and degrease,
    and proper lubing / greasing when it comes to eventually reusing the bikes.

    rgds, sreten.
    Last edited by sreten; 05-29-13 at 04:57 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •