This is the gearing on my commuter bike. It goes from pretty low (24.5) to pretty high (103.38). It also revealed the "proper" shift pattern for my current setup, which was interesting. I might add development and gain ratio later today.
Woah, 16.8". I thought mine was low! I'm wondering how much weight I could tow with it, since it has so much ease of use.
I've gotten my younger kid up some quite steep (but not too long) hills in a trailer (probably 60 lbs kid and trailer). And I've gotten both of my kids up some fairly long (but not so steep) inclines (probably 100 lbs kids and trailer).
And I've been able to spin my way up some nasty but short (> 20%) hills.
And if I could go lower, I would.
(I ride a recumbent, so I can't stand as a last resort).
For what it's worth, I run a 48/38/22 (where I swapped the 28T granny for a 22) on my big bike and a 50/39/24 (originally a 59/39/30) on my folder. It's an easy change and means you get quite a bit lower without giving up the higher end.
2012 Schwinn Trailway, Early 70's All Pro, Trek 1200
Ah, that explains it. I've never given recumbent a go, though I know a guy on my team who rides his regularly.
Sadly, I'm unable to determine the grade of the two/three hills I contend with, but they're fairly lengthy. These days I'm usually between 11 and 13 up them. I've had super good days where I've done them all on 20th! For me, due to some biomechanical oddities, I'm unable to stand and pedal in gears lower than about 12. This is because there isn't enough resistance on the downstroke and I have a hard time controlling the whole thing.