Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Handlebar Types

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    42
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Handlebar Types

    Quick and dirty.

    What is the specific purpose risers/drops/bullhorns were invented for, and how does their geometry accomplish this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Philasteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,082
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Serious or trolling?

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    42
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, serious. I mean what purpose does each respective handlebar type fulfill? I know risers are used on mountain bikes, but why are they used. Also, what are bullhorns for? Variety? Looks? I understand drops are supposed to be more aerodynamic, but is that their only purpose? What sparked the invention of these different kinds of handlebars? I want to know why certain types of handlebars have the geometry they do. Was it entirely random, and people just made different types of handlebars because they could?

  4. #4
    Senior Member GromCake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bozeman, MT
    My Bikes
    Bianchi Super Pista // 2012 Bianchi Sempre // Kilo TT // '77 Schwinn Super Le Tour
    Posts
    63
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Sealth View Post
    Yes, serious. I mean what purpose does each respective handlebar type fulfill? I know risers are used on mountain bikes, but why are they used. Also, what are bullhorns for? Variety? Looks? I understand drops are supposed to be more aerodynamic, but is that their only purpose? What sparked the invention of these different kinds of handlebars? I want to know why certain types of handlebars have the geometry they do. Was it entirely random, and people just made different types of handlebars because they could?
    risers give an upright position and fairly stable handling as they are generally wider, this is good for mountain biking and the terrain you encounter in that discipline, but also make for a comfy and stable urban commuting bar

    drops come in varying shapes and degrees of reach and drop for different things. track drops have more drop for a more aerodynamic position, but compact road drops allow for a more comfortable, but still somewhat aggressive race-style position for longer rides

    bullhorns, very similar to drops, certain shapes are more comfort based, certain shapes are more performance based.

    most everything in cycling was developed by asking "what do we need out of x component for y purpose?", and then designing accordingly.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrodzilla View Post
    Buy rollerblades and leave us alone.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 50voltphantom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    SD
    My Bikes
    Steamroller
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I currently have what I would consider a set of 'traditional" drop bars on my bike with aero levers. I have them rotated so that the ramps are near flat (making the drop portion useless) to reduce hand fatigue from leaning hard onto hoods. Having put some miles on them, I really don't understand how 'on the hoods' is a viable hand position for any extended length of time. 2-3 fingers on/around the hood with the bar between your pinky and ring finger? I know it works for a lot of people but either I'm doing this way wrong or I need to switch to something like RB-021's.

  6. #6
    Senior Member SpeshulEd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Peoria, AZ
    Posts
    3,389
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 50voltphantom View Post
    I currently have what I would consider a set of 'traditional" drop bars on my bike with aero levers. I have them rotated so that the ramps are near flat (making the drop portion useless) to reduce hand fatigue from leaning hard onto hoods. Having put some miles on them, I really don't understand how 'on the hoods' is a viable hand position for any extended length of time. 2-3 fingers on/around the hood with the bar between your pinky and ring finger? I know it works for a lot of people but either I'm doing this way wrong or I need to switch to something like RB-021's.
    Your bars should be rotated so the drops are parallel with the ground, this means the end of the bar should be pointed toward your back brake.

    The hoods should be positioned so they're flat across the top.

    My road bike, for example:


    When I'm in the hoods, my hands usually look like this. I find it to be very comfortable.
    Hey guys, lets go play bikes!

    Strava

  7. #7
    Senior Member 50voltphantom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    SD
    My Bikes
    Steamroller
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by SpeshulEd View Post
    Your bars should be rotated so the drops are parallel with the ground, this means the end of the bar should be pointed toward your back brake.

    The hoods should be positioned so they're flat across the top.
    Thank you. The contour of my current bars just isn't compatible with the kind of transition between the ramps and lever hoods I want to achieve. I'm thinking some FSA Omega Compacts or just switching to bullhorns is in my future.

  8. #8
    Senior Member GuitarBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    My Bikes
    Orbea Orca, Kona Rove, Dawes SST-AL, Trek 930
    Posts
    143
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 50voltphantom View Post
    Thank you. The contour of my current bars just isn't compatible with the kind of transition between the ramps and lever hoods I want to achieve. I'm thinking some FSA Omega Compacts or just switching to bullhorns is in my future.
    Right. To me, that transition from bars to hoods is an important characteristic of a bar. And if you want that transition to be flat, the FSA compact shape is one that works well.

  9. #9
    Grumpy Old Bugga europa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
    My Bikes
    Europa, Hillbrick, Road Chief, Repco Superlite (Ol' Rusty)
    Posts
    2,919
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 50voltphantom View Post
    Thank you. The contour of my current bars just isn't compatible with the kind of transition between the ramps and lever hoods I want to achieve. I'm thinking some FSA Omega Compacts or just switching to bullhorns is in my future.
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarBob View Post
    Right. To me, that transition from bars to hoods is an important characteristic of a bar. And if you want that transition to be flat, the FSA compact shape is one that works well.
    The brake levers themselves dictate that too. I have a pair of Cane Creek road style brake levers and two pairs of Tektro road style brake levers. Although the Cane Creek is supposed to be a rip off of the the Tektro, they sit differently on the same set of bars to the Tektro (tilted up much more). Same applies in combination brake/shifter setups too I believe.
    I had a good bike ... so I FIXED it

  10. #10
    THE STUFFED Leukybear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sandy Eggo, CA
    My Bikes
    Sworks Venge; Kona Paddywagon; Ibis Mojo SL-R
    Posts
    10,041
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Moved to general cycling discussion.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Ffld Cnty Connecticut
    My Bikes
    Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
    Posts
    15,255
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I ride on the hoods 90% of the time with this type of setup on my various bikes. My mtn bike is annoying with the limited hand positions.


    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,040
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What is the specific purpose risers/drops/bullhorns were invented for
    Sales. it's a business ..

  13. #13
    Dharma Dog lhbernhardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    My Bikes
    Rodriguez Shiftless street fixie with S&S couplers, Kuwahara tandem, Trek carbon, Dolan track
    Posts
    2,045
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Bullhorns were created for time trial bikes back in the 80's to give a lower, more aero position.

    Positioning drop bars: the tops should be parallel to the ground, and the top of the brake levers should carry this further so that you have a long, level area to rest your hands. This usually results in the ends of the drop bars pointing more towards the rear axle. You can also mount the levers a bit higher to suit, especially if the forward reach of the bars is a bit longer.

    What's interesting is that drop bars were invented before the days of "ergonomics." To most beginners, it looks as though the natural position of your hands in drop bars should be in the drops. No! The natural hand position is on the top of the brake hoods. You only go into the drops if you're going hard and need to be aero. I spend less than 1% of my time in the drops. The downside of this assumption is that most people set drop bars too high. They set them so that they are comfortable in the drops. This is not correct; they should be set so you are comfortable on the tops of the brake hoods. This is why brake hoods today are designed so ergonomically. When you go into the drops, you are supposed to be a little uncomfortable! You'll get used to this, and the lower position will make pounding into the wind much easier.

    You can always tell it's a beginner because they're riding in the drops at normal cruising speed. Experienced riders (well, experienced racers anyway) would be on the brake hoods in this situation.

    Luis

  14. #14
    Senior Member zonatandem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    My Bikes
    ariZona carbon fiber tandem & single
    Posts
    9,941
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Comfort and individual preference come into play for various bars.
    Bullhorns are quite often used for stoker bars on tandems (keeps the stoker from sticking her head into the pilots butt!).

  15. #15
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,040
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quick and dirty.
    answer: Forty-Two ..



    Life , the Universe And Everything ..

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    SW Florida
    My Bikes
    All Treks - fitness and road
    Posts
    377
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It has always seemed to me that drops are pretty much a waste except for racing and expressing one's desire to look like a racer. The exception is on a 'relaxed geometry' bike like the Trek Pilot; the Pilot's drops were almost high enough to be comfortable for an alternative hand position.

    Long rides beg for multiple bar positions to rest the hands and relax the back; that strikes me as the best reason for different configurations and accessories like bar ends and comfortable brake hoods. Most ideas that endure have a practical application.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Beneficial Ear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    My Bikes
    khs flite 220
    Posts
    150
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Drop bars = lots of options for hand position. To each his own but I would not go back to anything else for road riding.

    Straight bars were nice when I took shorter trips and went offroad. Hopping curbs and technical things required for mountain biking is much easier with the straight bars.
    >>>goal - 25 miles in one hour<<<

  18. #18
    Senior Member IthaDan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ithaca, NY
    My Bikes
    Click on the #YOLO
    Posts
    4,627
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 50voltphantom View Post
    I really don't understand how 'on the hoods' is a viable hand position for any extended length of time.
    If you don't understand, your bike doesn't fit. Either you need a shorter stem or bars (like the compact drop FSA bars you've mentioned) with shorter reach.

    Shimano : Click :: Campy :: Snap :: SRAM : Bang

  19. #19
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Indiana
    My Bikes
    RANS V3, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
    Posts
    11,451
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There are even more handlebar styles that most have ever considered:
    These are 'tweener' bars. Legs/knees between the barends.


    'Hamster' bars for the Captain and, for the Stoker..................................no bars, just hand grips.
    RANS V3 (steel), RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •