not a silly question
that brake lever is designed to pull against the ends of cable housing
not against the barrel molded i to the end of the inner cable
it may work
but i would be concerned that the mismatch would
damage either the lever or the cable over time
you should look around for a cheap mtb lever with a steel bar clamp
like the type on the cheapest mtbs you find in a dumpster or a ravine
as this can probably be mounted to your road bars
and will be designed to hold a mtb brake cable end
it also might be possible to use a bit of cable housing
or a ferrule or something else
to act as a slightly better holder for the molded brake cable end
I think it would work if you used a small metal spacer or a couple washers under the cable's end.
If you do get a new lever,make sure it's short/road pull. Your brake is a short pull brake.
I'd ask the mods to move this to the mechanics or SS/FG forum.
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Some performance bents use those style levers to reduce weight. Yes, they'll work -- on flat bars or on the tops of drop bars. You won't like them mounted 'out front' on drop bars.
those are perfect for single speeds. just make sure the clamp is the right size for your bars. have used them for years, stand alone.
i use a Tektro lever similar to the one that is shown on bikes with road bars, or bullhorns and a simple BMX lever from Origin8 on my bikes with straight MTB bars, just to simplify clamp diameter differences.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 05-03-14 at 06:51 PM.
Those brake levers are made to go in the center of the housing not the end of the cable , for that you need a brake lever that is made for the purpose.
they push the housing apart and thus shorten the cable , relatively .
Cyclocross bikes have the regular brake at the end of the cable, and those near the top center , to make a braking position from the top.
suit your self, people do dangerous things , But I wouldn't use them as the only lever ..
I do have a CX bike with the interrupting second lever .. on each brake cable.
Guidonnet levers , VO has some, curve around to follow the top curve of drop bars , those are made to go on the cable end
its for a barrel end cable, so the cable pulls straight without bending the stiff soldered end where the ball is fused on.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-03-14 at 07:40 PM.
to clarify what has been said
they will work, until they snap the heads off your brake cable while trying to stop hard in traffic
the cable heads are less flexible than mid cable
standalone levers have a pivoting cable holder to account for this
simplified cross top levers do not, and can break cable heads when used in this way
won't happen instantly as the effect is wear / age related, exact time of failure is unpredictable but will almost certainly be when you're trying to use the brake
if you do it, inspect cables regularly for fraying at head, replace them annually regardless, and have a brake on both wheels as backup
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
A couple years ago someone posted a picture of cables broken off in this type of lever. Fortunately this was when the person was standing still- I'd hate to be in an emergency situation when they let go.
Originally Posted by xenologer
In fairness, this may have been one type of levers or one brand of cables. Plenty of other people have said that they've used "crosstop" levers stand-alone with no issues.
thanks Xen .. echo the ' if you must ' .. ritualize the safety check .. inspect the cable at the head end, before every ride .
these are what I was referring to Dia Compe Guidonnet Brake Levers