Jas556

I'm still looking at bikes, and I'm still wanting to ditch the car for commuting (~15 mile round trip,) but I am wondering how much I should really be spending. I've had my eye on bikes ~1500, as that would appear to be the going price for bikes with "mid level" components, such as Apex, 105, and Veloce. Going on a touring bike with Deores would put me around 12-1400 if I elected to give up some responsiveness. I know that plenty of people take Surly's very seriously, and I'll be honest and say that Surly makes the bike I first lusted after, and that would be Tiagra for about 1250. There are plenty of college kids commuting around on flat bar hybrids, and that would be about $500 average to my estimate. There are also plenty of people that seem to go just fine on BSOs, but I don't quite want to go that low - my experience working at Wal-Mart showed that the bikes fell apart not even being used...

So since I needed a longer title, my question is: What price point for a bicycle do you feel appropriate, and would you feel comfortable relying on, to be used daily as a car replacement, with the stipulation that it has to be purchased new?

Or if you had to *over-*simplify everything, and categorize everything by derailleurs and shifters, what would you consider the minimum? Sora? Tiagra?

And I'm not necessarily placing the new restriction on myself, but comparing used against new prices would muddle the answers a bit

Vexxer

Are you talking about a complete replacement, or just a commute replacement? Another wards, will you be doing everything on the bike, like shopping?

xenologer

why are you comparing based on component grade only?

Phil_gretz

Your question is a price/cost one. Why not determine your break-even time horizon and calculate the bike's price based on car commuting costs avoided? The simplest model says that the bike's original costs are "consumed" during the break even period, and assumes that there are no replacement/operating costs for the bike itself during the initial period.

[(operating costs per mile)(miles per month) + (monthly fixed annual costs (ownership and others not factored into costs per mile))][number of months for break even] = [bike budget + savings]. Assuming an 18-month period:

[(0.596)(400)+(45)][18] = [238.4 + 45][18] = ~$5100 = bike budget plus savings.

Split it for the first 18 months, and then it becomes mostly savings less operating costs thereafter.

So, $2500 wouldn't be unreasonable, but should be "full up" with options, racks, bags, etc.

You can refine the cost assumptions to your particular situation, of course.

I'd be looking for a drop bar steel bike with strong wheels. I wouldn't be using brifters, preferring bar end shifters for durability and simplicity. But that's just me. Component levels are irrelevant. Put 9-speed touring gearing or randonneuring gearing on there. Research your braking options, too, as discs and cantilevers should be options for you. Don't forget the cost of commuting gear to be included.

My take on it...

Astrozombie

$400 Hybrid and $800 Roadie.

Tiagra

Jas556

Vexxer - Groceries would be nice, but that isn't a far trip at all.

Xeno - Partly over simplification, and partly because it seems important to look at component grades if the major concern is component longevity

Phil - That's a neat formula, but I suspect the estimation of .596 operating cost per mile is not entirely accurate as I do not have a car payment. It is a pretty good way to look at it though. =] My operating costs aren't much because insurance isn't *too* much, and my car gets 17mpg (which is pretty lame for a v6 stick. ) The direction you would take is very similar to mine though! But I have to ask, how much more important would bar end shifters be to you? It seems like that would limit me quite a bit.

Astro - alright

And thanks ^.^

Vexxer

Jas, I asked because it really depends on what your gonna use it for. If you gonna do things like groceries, I think a touring bike with its many eyelets for racks would be best. If you just looking for something to ride back and forth to work, then a hybrid with a rear rack and fenders would suit your nicely. You should go check out the Commuter forum, and the Living Car free forum.

Wilfred Laurier

I would say about 700 dollars or so
at that price you can expect solid components
and decent wheels
but nothing fancy

but as things break or wear out
you know whitch parts need to be improved

also
less expensive often means less of a theft magnet

question
how does choosing deore components make a bike less responsive

Jas556

alright, thanks Vexxer = ]

It's not the Deore that I feel would make the bike less responsive, but the bikes with Deores are heavier touring bikes, with more laid back geometries, that people have ditched because they didn't like the way the bike handled.

StephenH

If you MUST have reliability, get at least two bikes so if one is in the shop, you can still ride.
If you can't bring the bike into your office and must leave it locked outside somewhere, that's a good reason to go more low-end.
For 15 miles, 7.5 miles round trip, if it's not terribly hilly, just about any bike would work.
I'd be looking at a couple of bikes with fenders and all for commuting, plus a road bike for fun.

wphamilton

There is no appropriate price point. You can make it work with any bike that you can keep running - everything beyond that depends on what you want, not what you must have.

Nightshade

Get real, mate. For a 15 mile commute ,on dry days, a cheaper reliable bike is way better than a $1500+ bike that some jerk will steal.

RPK79

joeyduck

This.

It is what you can afford and what you want after that.

I used to ride my 25 mile round trip on a flat bar hybrid. One pre-trip inspection I noticed cracked downtube. My old schwinn was down also. So I went to the hardcore mountain biker neighbors and borrowed his wife's old mis-tuned beater bike. Bad fit, but it worked for when I needed it. My old schwinn worked also, I miss that bike.

Now I have a LHT and loved it since the beginning. I highly recommend it as a car replacement without going for all out cargo bike. It is fun to ride, it takes a load and with some miles on your legs it is not that slow.

fietsbob

If you want to haul cargo on your bike , a job formerly done in your car,

then you need a different kind of a bike, than one to just carry you.

& maybe some bags for stuff..

wphamilton

Right you are, so let me rephrase: There is no minimum appropriate price point. You can make it work with any bike that you can keep running


​That's not to say that you can't do it with the $1500 if you want to.

Artkansas 

My day to day all purpose utility bike was a freebie. It's given me 9 years of great service.

cyccommute 

I'd say it depends on the individual circumstances. I've been lucky enough to work where I can park my bike inside everyday...I haven't carried a lock to work in 32 years. Because of that, I ride very nice bikes to work. If I had to park a bike outside, I'd ride lower quality bikes. If I had to lock a bike outside in the center of a city, I'd probably ride BSOs.

Let your circumstances dictate the cost of the bike.

BlazingPedals

How much are you trying to justify? This would replace a car, at least for one person and short commuting. It even has a hardtop available.

delcrossv

Beat me to it. About the price of a good used car will get you a car replacement. The upside is in fuel costs.

You can do a pretty long commute in a velomobile.

DBA

Food for thought for ya.
I commuted on a Schwinn MTB from Target for 3 years, 8 miles each way. The bike cost me $169 and I paid a LBS to replace the BB with a sealed, cartridge type. I think they charged me $90 or so....the bike was flawless the entire time I commuted on it. I even mounted an inexpensive rack on the back of it and could carry everything in a couple panniers.
So, you really don't have to spend a ton.

joeyduck

I just recommended a friend check out a $95 rock hopper from the 90s for his new 3 mile commute. I figure a tune up and he is good to go for about $200.

I loved an old MB I got and tuned up for a friend. It was a nice bike and it was free (other than the drive to get). I put on new brakes and a rack and bam, great commuter. Less then $25 total.

BlazingPedals

You save more than gas. You save a big chunk on insurance, too. For most people it'd just be a rider on their homeowner's/renter's insurance. It's faster than a regular bike, but the commute length would still be limited by how much time you're willing to spend pedaling it.

joeyduck

Maintenance costs as well.

Though I was smart with my car's headlight bulbs (which it seems to burn out every 9 months) I bought a warrantied pair for a premium and I got both bulbs warrantied as they blew and they sent me one pairs each time. So I got 6 bulbs for the price of two.

howeeee

A cousin of mine cant afford a car, he gave me a call knowing I mess with bikes. I didnt have anything on hand to give him, I saw a vintage woman's upright Varsity at a thrift shop for 20 bucks, I bought it. Then I saw on craigslist a Men's Suburban frame, fork, crank and fenders, I offered 20 bucks for it and got it. I put all the parts from the Varsity onto the Suburban frame. For 40 bucks my cousin has a beautiful bike that is solid and will last him forever. Yea it is heavy but a 20 mile round trip commute is easy for this bike.

When you start talking 500 to 1500 bucks for a commuter you immediately make it almost impossible for many people to start riding. YOu can do it for almost nothing. I have had strangers call me from craigslist with sob stories about needing a bike, Many times if I had something laying around,that I have little money in, I gave the bike away. Other people will do it to, if you run a wanted ad on craigslist.

In detroit their is a co op if you volunteer helping there they will give you a bike.

So there are ways to get a good bike for cheap if you are in need.

By the way, my main rider is a Pure Fix that I bought barely used for 160 bucks. I ride it a hundred miles a week.