Cycling on Gotland (Sweden)
I apologize for my english
The day passed in the final preparations. In the morning came, Dima left our backpack and went ride light in Vyborg. In the afternoon, the driver called and said that he will take us to 23.30. A reminder of the bikes he uttered something like, "Good gracious, where did I put them!!! But nothing happened, the Mercedes was quite roomy.
The whole day was hot in St. Petersburg (31) and sunny weather, but when we left a storm began, and the rain wished us a pleasant journey.
July 24th, we met on the bus still in Russia. On the way was a little nap. At the border was about 3 o'clock in the morning. Verification of documents does not take a lot of time and already at half past five we arrived at the airport Vantaa and joined the sticking awaiting their flights. Airport administration sympathetic to sleep and did not make any announcements about the arrival and departure of aircraft.
After 3.5 hours we spent in dremlenii, slonyanii on the terminals and the consumption of coffee has begun to register. At the reception nobody else was, when we dragged there with all our gear.
The girl behind the counter said the already-known fact that "the plane is too small," and she wanted to clarify a couple of questions about the bike. A couple of questions dragged on for a length of 10 calls a minute and a half. The conversation was conducted in Finnish, so we could only pray. Finally, the talks ended, and she said that "we will try to stuff, but if not packed, then do not packed because airplane is really very small, the results will inform packed before departure." 150 CZK (approx. 15 euros), which, as we informed the site, you must pay for the transportation of the iron horse, she refused to take.
A few more hours of anxious waiting to walk across a huge number of stores and we boarded the plane. With bikes everything was OK, the plane was not so small -70 seats, but twin-engine. Take-off was soft, a little shocked at landing due to strong winds. The flight lasted one and a half hours.
In Visby were in half of the 12th (the Swedish time). Originally planned as soon as out of town, but the medieval walls, a grocery store and search for gas detained us.
Right in airport we were greeted by the sheep, however, until the concrete. Generally it is a pretty pet is a symbol of Gotland and in abundance is found in fields and in the souvenir shops of the island. Concrete analogues are used for beauty and for the Barriers to road transport.
Not without anxiety, we dissected cases - as experienced flight and packed our bikes? But everything turned out okay. The only loss we have suffered - a can of lubricant to the chain - it was taken as the fuel and detonation facility.
After a while we pedaled against a strong wind. Visby was very close to the airport - about two kilometers. On the outskirts we stopped to shop for groceries ICA. Corned beef was not here, instead took the jar with the word "goulash." Sia bodyaga we liked, though the meat in it was not enough. His absence is compensated by the presence of a large number of vegetables and sauce.
In Visby, we saw the sea. It was blue somewhere below, and beckoned to him. We rushed headlong down the streets, barely managing to slow down before the corner. And here it is - at all its glory, though sometimes a little aromatic smell of rotting seaweed. The path continued along the path along the beaches, coastal cafes and gnarled pines. I wanted so to go on forever. However, the voice of reason and stomach made us stop at the campsite. There's kids get water and asked where to find gas. It was decided to change plans a bit - to find gas, lunch / dinner / breakfast and a ride through the old town. It was already half past four when we started to climb with difficulty back to the city up the streets, in which half an hour ago, rushed down with ease.
The gas was found on one of the stations in the city center, ate pizza in the budget, and went to look at old buildings. The old town was small and we started / travel all over him almost entirely. Cathedrals, stained glass, debris, gargoyles, narrow streets and steep stairs, tiled red roofs, and beyond them the blue see white ship, castle walls and towers - all this for a long time would not let us.Lastly, we went down to the sea and drove him away along out of town.
Was already getting dark when I have a flat tire. Dima and Sasha quickly changed the camera, and we climbed back up the hill on the highway. On the way saw a huge slug. It was found on Gotland there are many. Length seen ranges from 9 to 18 sm.Wake up in the bush, 100 meters from the highway. Not far from home. It was dark when we ate and lay down to sleep after a sleepless night.
On the morning patter on the tent and aircraft noise. We woke up at 9. Military aircraft fly every 5-10 minutes. Them very much. Then we crept into question - can this still an airplane? Only together - heavy rain. They went on road.Along cycle paths grows a lot of red poppies.
Soon reached the cave Lumellunda. Here a great place - the tourist season in full swing. Nevertheless decided to go. On the other hand had seen all sorts of bikes.All normal tourists on Gotland take them to hire. Things carry on luggage as we are, but more on carts, trailers. In the trailers, even transport children. Many tandems. There are also quite exotic artifacts - a semi-lying chairs, wheels of different sizes, etc. and. etc. Just a beautiful flower cave.
The cave itself is not impressed. Stalactites, stalagmites, as usual, and you are no black and white cavers. After examination down to the sea and had lunch. We left just in 16.00.
Our way led to the highest raukaru on Gotland Jungfrunklint. There is a sad story about love, which helped to break with this beautiful cliff into the sea. Go to the coast led first dirt road, and then it does become a forest path, overgrown with grass. Hearing us, leaping through the forest wild rabbits.
On the beach, a fishing village houses. By the rock is a path, where we went on foot. And then broke my camera down. Lens error on / off. I was disappointed, though foreseeing such a situation. In my backpack lay an old soap box, and the video camera while filming too well.
Walk to raukaru and to spit, enclosing the harbor, we headed for home, stopping to take pictures of painted mailboxes. The painting, however, the factory, but diverse.
We left scurried highway. It was quite desert, stretched around a beautiful marsh. The guide even they are designated as landmarks. Briefly turned inland to see the ruins of the ancient church. The church stands in a meadow. On Gotland pastures planted with deciduous trees to protect the grass from drying out. Pets are grazing right in the trees. On the way, talked to the lambs. They greeted us in unison with a loud bleating.
Already it was time to find parking, so we missed another beautiful place, which had planned to visit on the highway and drove directly to the campsite in Kapelshamne, collected water and visited the bushes between the houses. In the evening it began to rain again.
We got up around 8. On the morning of light rain, but then the weather cleared, and the day was sunny iteplym. We left at 10.30. For Kappelshamnom turned off the main highway to the ancient limestone to call in Factory Blaze. We stopped to eat blackberries by the roadside. Passed by a modern plant, a little zaizvestilis.
The museum was the most interesting bike for legless, resembling a wheelchair, and a railway line to the quarry. For very narrow narrow gauge railway can take a ride in a broken-down old trolleys that pulls no less rusty broken down train. Probably because they looked like back in 1945, when he went on his last flight. After that, the plant was closed.
Then our route lay on minor roads to the ferry to the island of Faro. We stopped in the village Fleringe, saw the church and the farm, where they met the Russian travelers by car. Most of our countrymen on Gotland we have not seen. It was the first small museum of the many that we visited in the future. Museums tell about farm life swedish 18 19epoch. Differences from the Russian way of life is not enough. Here are just everywhere We hit size beds and doors. Involuntarily recalled the Scandinavian tales of dwarfs.
From Flering go through pastures and forests, along the road to eat. I have a flat tire again. I had to glue the camera, but lost a bit of time and were soon in Bunge.
In Bunge visited another church. Churches on Gotland are many, many we missed, many have called. Church primarily ages 13-14, stained glass windows, altars, exciting, primitive paintings, drawings similar to primitive people. Almost every church are the ruins of "defensive towers" that are used in wartime.
Also in Bunge has a large open-air museum / museum of everyday life. In addition to houses and barns are well represented windmills and watermills. Even you can play fun vnarodnye Gotland - the battle on the pillows, walking on stilts, the game "nakin ring on a stick" and the like. After playing enough, we stopped for gas and in shop food and went to the pier.
Ferries to the island of Faro runs every half hour, it's free. We had to wait a bit. Upon arrival, I was blown back tire. Put the last spare camera, she was excellent and skated all the time remaining to cheer. Probably the two previous ones were from the defective batch.
At Faro, we decided to stay at the camp. Directly from the pier, past the beautiful stone fences and a large number of sheep, we are only one stop at the church moved to the island news. Promised to guide murals narrating the hard work the sealers, in the church we found.
The camping with us demanded Scandinavian map, which had to purchase an additional 175 euros per tent (put one in order to save) and 10 euros for 4 minutes shower. When asked why so expensive, a good auntie said free can bathe in the sea. They took 8 minutes on the soul. Then it turned out that in 4 minutes it is possible to meet.
The camping was quite densely populated, so far from a tent set kitchen.Elektricheskie warmed plates awful. To cook dinner took more than hours.Spat left only hours to 12.
We got up at half past seven, but left only at the beginning of 12. The weather is fine. Still, overnight camping increases the fee for an hour. Morning shower, walk on a deserted beach and still cooking breakfast on the stove barely this took a long time.
Our Kempin graspolagalsya directly from the great and mighty dunes Ullahau, but it takes quite a large area and is a little mounds of sand covered with stunted forest. Maybe here you could find something impressive, but we did not look for, and immediately went to the fishing grounds the village Helgumannen. On the road there were many puddles and in general the quality was far from perfect (according to Finnish standards, according to the Russian-ordinary country road).
After a while the path traveled by a narrow, slightly wider than a bicycle path, though paved, the road along the sea. Fisherman's Village there for several centuries. However, now there rest only those who "enjoys sport fishing."
Huge limestone beaches smoothly into the huge Ťareať in raukarami - in Russian-stone pillars. But raukary sounds beautiful match for these amazing places. The small lake among boulders, gnawed by sea, very nice obtained the photographs. Local arrive here with tables and chear for a picnic. Children caught in the water shrimp. The most beautiful raukar very similar to a huge dog.
Admiring the scenery never before, we went way back to dine at the cafe landing place.Stopped and even took Gotland national dessert, which, to our dismay, was millet porridge pudding with jam and cream.
Ferry had just in time, some of the latter. In the evening the weather turned bad, it was overcast, was going to rain, which did not go. Camping along the road was not expected, so we get water on a farm. Despite the fact that the owner promised that the water "drinking" it was a bit salty. Under the same evening visited another place with raukarami, not as impressive as in Faro. We got up, having left on a trail near the village. The path seemed so desolate, was popular among the local riders and pedestrians, however, to them we had no case. The forest grew an apple tree with delicious fruit. We had dinner, a walk and went to bed.
Stood v7.30. Partly cloudy, it's spitting a little rain, the day the weather cleared. Of forest left in fields of wheat and corn. Among the crop weed red poppy, the combination just awesome. Later saw a lot of fields.
on the beach stopped to wash and eat blackberries on the lake. Lake Fardume one of the largest on Gotland, but to him as to everyone else not to come because of the marshy shores. Another stopped at the ruins and the quarry, which promised many fossils that we so nowhere to be found.
Next we were a long way on the highway through Labro (church) in the slit, where we stopped at one of the few working water mills on Gotland. True, it acts only on major holidays - twice a year.
Then we stopped at another farm, Vicki, where solid uncle, despite the fact that the museum is closed, we had a fascinating tour of the house, the barn and the garden. From his speeches, I realized that the farm lived a boat building, natural hozyaystvomi sale of beer, and on-site garden was laid out hops. He also pointed to some grass mkakuyu and said it before women took with them to church in order to smell it, and not the surrounding men. After looking accompany me knights, he invited me to take a couple of branches, and was surprised when I refused.
Then followed a fascinating story about how the wing roof of straw. Involved in the process, both men and women. And yet there is somehow involved alcohol bottle, though my knowledge of English is not enough to fully understand exactly how, probably as an encouragement to men. Why women are not getting any clear bottle.
After the farm we stopped at the grave of another dude with a difficult pronouncing name. According to legend, he was the first person that came to Gotland, but the guide said that it's all stories. The grave is really interesting, is composed of stones in the shape of the boat.
On this day, decided to spend the night at sea. Gathered at the camp water deepened to a small peninsula and stood in a very cozy place, almost on the beach. The evening was good, but once we settled down, knocked on the tent rain.
At half past five woke up from vspolhov lightning and peals of thunder, heavy rain beat on the awning. It was scary, we were in a fairly open, but a storm was raging close by. This lasted about half an hour, then the element has departed, and I fell asleep. I woke up early in the eighth, strong winds, the sea was heard the storm. On yesterday's dreams had to swim to forget.
We left at 10.30. Today we went deep into the island - the village of Dal, where we visited a beautiful church and a railway museum. Actually now on Gotland no passenger rail, but some time it existed. Left passenger cars, which can be accessed, the locomotives. And, of course, there is entertainment as the trolley on which you can ride on a small piece of rail. Trolley looks like a tricycle, and is driven by pedaling.
On the way to Dahl stopped at another museum, a farm, on the road to the ruins of a medieval castle, which is absolutely not impressed. All day, with varying success pouring rain, I want to go home. They returned again to the sea and wanted to get up in Hammarase on the beach, but there was locality. Then I planted my gloves, however, they were to me does not want. From Hammarasa arrived at an ancient cemetery. And there really has poured heavy rain. In weather like this place looked even more impressive. Among the green grass stood a small mounds of stones, there were very many.
In the hope that such a heavy rain would end soon, hide from the shower under small tent information. The jacket has already started to get wet, like home all the more. It took 15 minutes, hope died, and we went to look for parking. The road was covered with deep pools and also ended abruptly. In this impasse, we decided to put a tent. Rain stopped briefly, giving us the opportunity to camp and cook dinner, and then loaded again. There were only eight in the evening, but could only go to sleep, so we did.
We woke up at half past seven sleep. The weather is good, managed to partially dry out. I just soaked clothes. In the backpack, but everything remained dry kit. Part of the medication into a mess, hardly able to heal someone in need. Fortunately there was no need.
Returned to the cemetery shoot. The water from the road, completely flooded yesterday, had almost gone. From the cemetery on a good trail, went to another sites - mounds. Go to the burial ground had to go first on the water flooded the field with no very friendly horses, and then the forest trail. Mounds are heaps of stones about 4 feet tall. We even climbed on one of them.
After the inspection came back to bikes, and put in place fell out of my rope gear and drove on the highway near the village of Anga. Today, however, was not the highway day and soon we were driving back through the field of primers with grazing sheep. Made a short detour to the mountain with the remains of an ancient fortress. I had to go places, even on the water. Only just dried sneakers were soaked again.
Short time left on the highway, but soon turned back and went to secondary tracks in the town Lyugarn. Here too profusely decorated with beach raukars. Sasha was so carried away shooting that slipped, and with the camera fell into the sea. So we lost one piece of shooting equipment. After 5 minutes, Dima got the battery, so we decided to get up at the campsite to recharge.
The camping we paid 150 euros for a tent, and 5 euros for 4 minutes shower. At this time, 8 minutes to take did not.
Tent pitched near the kitchen late at night playing in Potions.
Weather staid all day perfect, and the prediction image displayed at the camp, please - rain in the next few days was not expected.
In the morning the first thing decided to take a shower. In this camp the water did not want to include all 4 minutes, had all the time to press the button. So when I lathered, I allotted time is over. I had to borrow another guys a wash.
After showering, breakfast porridge and hit the road. They came out again late - at half past eleven. On the way we pass beautiful stone farm, wooden buildings on the island is almost there. First of all visited another cemetery, and then walked 700 meters to the mound Diggeroir. All this impressed us not so much as seen before.
We passed quite close to the wind turbine - they stood about 20 meters from the road. It began to rain when we got to Stavgorda - Iron Age village. We were lucky that there was a canopy under which we had taken refuge.
Stavgord students built under the guidance of teachers. In a shaggy, when children are resting not far from these places in the camp, two boys, after reading the ancient sagas, set out to find the treasure, and, most surprisingly, found it in about the spot where, according to legend, he hid it. Now at this point, there are huts Stavgorda. Judging from the large dining room and main bedroom, the barracks-like, lived in the Iron Age, "a large Swedish family," prepared for outbreaks over an open fire, roof wing straw. After seeing a small village, drank tea, and wait for the rain, we drove on for a very nice wet, sun-drenched.
The next item on our program was to visit the Agricultural Museum. When we arrived, it was already closed, but on the street, too, was something to see. The whole yard was lined with cars for various purposes, of which we, as urban residents, could only guess. This case, however, we went very badly. Signatures of the Swedish language did not help. Somehow, among all mowers and binders met from time to time machine, designed for military purposes.
In the evening, when the sun was setting, we stopped at another mound in the swamps, the largest on Gotland (8 meters high, 35 in diameter). Around the grazing cows, from the top of a beautiful view of the surroundings.
Water gained from the hose at the closed church and stood next to a large soccer field, frightening, sticking in the cozy town of the rabbit. Screaming owl. On the island of owls can be heard everywhere. Even at the airport she cried at parting us.
Aside from local rain Stavgorde all day great weather.
In the morning found a huge slug on the canister. Even afraid to take it in hand - suddenly sucked had to drive a stick. Had breakfast and went, as usual, at 10.30 on sunny highway. After much discussion, decided nevertheless to go to the southernmost tip of Gotland. Do not regret it. Place is really beautiful. Stopped at a couple of churches and for the next raukar. Here I would like to attack a seagull, but I ran away from during her terrible screams and sharp beak. Dima scored on the beach of seaweed and eat them raw. Despite its satisfied smacking of lips, we do not stumble on this green goo. Then for a long time drawn into a hill, was hot hot sun. At the southernmost point was very beautiful: huge cliffs, away at sea windmills, ate at a cafe overlooking the sea.
After a hearty lunch, went on the road vell along the sea and enjoy life. At sunset, drove to a huge fleet of wind turbines, which have seen the cliff. The rays of the setting sun, these colossus particularly impressive. We had been to look for parking, but, as luck would have begun around the field, and had absolutely no place to stand. Pedal for quite some time, until finally he reached the woods. Sasha stubborn and refused to go into the thicket away from human eyes, so the tent set 30 meters from the highway, passing the machine is well lit our sanctuary lamps.
On this day, drove 90 km to Visby 55 km left for two days. Tomorrow we'll sleep. Dima attacked mites, he shot them almost every minute. Us for some reason they did not touch the truth the next morning I found one in the tent.
We got up around 9:00, drove in 11. Without haste, went in the direction of Visby, on the way visited the stone with rock inscriptions. After he turned to the ground and drove about an hour, closer to the beaches. They drove out to the sea in the fishing village. 5-10 km could be seen the two islands. Next route was along the water. Stopped on the beach to bathe. The water was a spring of cold, but it was nice to freshen up a bit burnt body. After the rest left on the highway and 20 km pedal almost to the Visby against the wind, a small hill and under the scorching sun. On our way we stopped at another old fishing village.
In the evening with a beautiful cliff to admire the Visby, and almost immediately got up at five-star camping. Here with us asked for CZK 300 per night. But during dinner, enjoying the sunset on the sea through the kitchen window. Our black bowler hats looked on white plates just fine, well before the trip that I realized wash them at least from a crumbling black ...
Again long played Potions.
Plans for longer sleep in the morning did not materialize due to the early lifting of children and others arrived lawn mowers, so got up at nine, had breakfast and went for a walk in camping. There was quite a large amusement park and even a water park. In general, a paradise for children and their parents. We left late. Prior to Visby was no more than three miles. When entering the city saw four of the russian car VAZ dashboard.
Day spent in search of souvenirs to noticeable brightening up for the festival the old town. Leisurely dinner at a pizzeria and went down to the sea to admire the yachts at sunset and tide.
When it was quite dark, we went to the airport, intending to spend the night in the waiting room. In the early eleventh came to the lighting of buildings, however, we were disappointed - the doors were closed. The display lit up the first flight at six in the morning. Airport officer stared at us and then on the scoreboard, scratched his head, looked at his watch and shrugged his shoulders and knocked out the light. Catch had nothing to sleep on the street did not want, the more it became colder, so we drove 500 meters and set the tent on the field, situated next to the flight.
We got up at 4:00, on charges spent just under an hour and five minutes to five again reached the terminal. The airport was opened only in five. We have assembled bikes on the street, the remains of cooked oatmeal on the burner and zabodyazhili tea. By 7 were ready to depart. Registration began at 7.20. Bicycles have no problems, no money was asked again. At 8:00 am, and took off a half hour landed in Helsinki. It should be hot. In 1230, already in Moscow, we took the car. The house got only half-past nine, due to poor knowledge of the driver of the streets of Helsinki and St. Petersburg. Thrown off the pictures and Dima performed at 11 in Moscow. Our journey is over! The path length for bicycle on Gotland was 540 km.
I just left the track to Garmin. If you need it, I can send it!