Got my new wheelset... now what?
#1
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Got my new wheelset... now what?
I need some serious help here. No, I'm serious. Stop laughing. So my wife got me a new wheel set as an early birthday present for me. Hooray! I got them in the mail today.
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
#2
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I need some serious help here. No, I'm serious. Stop laughing. So my wife got me a new wheel set as an early birthday present for me. Hooray! I got them in the mail today.
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
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I need some serious help here. No, I'm serious. Stop laughing. So my wife got me a new wheel set as an early birthday present for me. Hooray! I got them in the mail today.
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
I have a 2014 Trek 8.2 DS with an el cheapo freewheel. I replaced the stock suspension fork with an aftermarket rigid fork and have slowly resorted to turning my DS into an FX. The wheelset I purchased came with Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs that says they're compatible with Shimano 7,8,9,10 & 11-speed cassette. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 10-speed cassette. (wheel specs / photos below)
I know I need to remove the free wheel & upgrade to a cassette in order to use these wheels. In addition to that, am I now needing to upgrade and replace the ENTIRE drivetrain by going up to a speed 10-speed drivetrain? i.e., cassette, derailleurs, shifters, chain, bottom bracket? After my wife sings Happy Birthday to me, then she's going to kill me when I tell her what this new wheelset is going to cost me.
In addition to ALL of that, do I then also need new brakes and a crankset, too?
I'm more or less looking to see what I need to purchase so I can piece meal this thing together.
After looking at various parts on eBay, I'd like to try and use Shimano 105 components.
One thing I am having difficulty with right off the bat are compatible flat-bar shifters.
Help?
** images courtesy of Velo **
32 hole H + Plus Son Archetype machined sidewall rims
23mm wide x 25mm deep
DT Swiss - Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes
Shimano Ultegra 6800 32 Hole Hubs
Shimano and SRAM 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Speed Compatible
1088 grams rear // 883 grams front WEIGHT WITHOUT SKEWERS
Shimano Skewers Included
700c Clincher
700x23-35 Tires Fit
130mm rear spacing.
100mm Standard Spacing on front
Whether this can be sorted out with a new axle and/or spacers, I just don't know enough to answer that.
#4
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I'd say all you need are shifters and cassette. I went through this years ago when Sheldon Brown was on the forums, and he cut through the fear mongering that most members posted. Usually chain rings and chains can go up or down one speed. Your rear derailleur still swings the same width. Pretty sure your actuation ratio is the same.
#5
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I'd say all you need are shifters and cassette. I went through this years ago when Sheldon Brown was on the forums, and he cut through the fear mongering that most members posted. Usually chain rings and chains can go up or down one speed. Your rear derailleur still swings the same width. Pretty sure your actuation ratio is the same.
My next hurdle is one that the Colonel referenced above which is the discrepancy in the rear spacing.
I thought I had done my due diligence before purchasing these and I now stand corrected.
My DS does in fact have 135mm spacing in the rear while the wheelset has 130mm.
I'm guessing this is going to require some modification and/or additional purchase or worse case scenario - I need to return them.
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I would just go with 9-speed. I think the only thing you would need to buy is a cassette and shifter. Everything else should work. I'm no expert but I've mixed and matched 7 and 9 speed components with no problems.
Last edited by corwin1968; 06-26-15 at 06:02 AM.
#7
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Yeah, that Trek probably has 135mm dropouts and your new rear wheel has 130mm spacing. I also don't know if it can be made to work but I would incline towards not. Hopefully the place your wife ordered the wheels from will let you exchange them, if needed.
I would just go with 9-speed. I think the only thing you would need to buy is a cassette and shifter. Everything else should work. I'm no expert but I've mixed and matched 7 and 9 speed components with no problems.
I would just go with 9-speed. I think the only thing you would need to buy is a cassette and shifter. Everything else should work. I'm no expert but I've mixed and matched 7 and 9 speed components with no problems.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, she bought them from Velomine and they have a 60-day return policy if the item is unused.
I shot them an e-mail first thing this morning to see if they have a 'better-than-stock' wheelset on hand with 135mm rear spacing + 100mm front spacing that I could exchange.
If not, I may need to return them all together.
The "oh-no-my-new-wheels-are-130mm-and-my-bike-has-135mm-spacing" discussion appears to be a popular one online that I've searched.
Some say add a couple of 2.5mm spacers on each side or a 5mm spacer on one side and be done with it.
Others have indicated the bike will explode into a fiery ball hotter than the sun if one attempts that.
I don't have the mechanical knowledge to know how to proceed, but I know I don't want the integrity of the bike to suffer.
I made the upgrade to make the bike more efficient and reliable... not to weaken it.
#8
aka Phil Jungels
You will need a new shifter to go to 9 or 10 spd, and may or may not need a new DR. Chain will have to match the speeds you are going to, but easily and cheaply resolved. If it were me, I'd return them for the right wheel set, but it will work with spacers.
105 DR are reasonably cheap, and work very well, just make sure you get what you need cassette and big ring size (make sure it will take up needed tooth difference slack.)
You will love going to 9 or 10 spd, for more gear choices...
And, I wouldn't tell her how much it cost me to make it right, just keep repeating how much nicer the wheels and extra gears are for you!
105 DR are reasonably cheap, and work very well, just make sure you get what you need cassette and big ring size (make sure it will take up needed tooth difference slack.)
You will love going to 9 or 10 spd, for more gear choices...
And, I wouldn't tell her how much it cost me to make it right, just keep repeating how much nicer the wheels and extra gears are for you!
#9
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What I would do (the cheapest option):
Buy an 8-speed cassette.
Buy the 8-speed right shifter-brake lever combo (I presume you have the shimano ST-EF51 levers, they come in both 7 and 8 speed, so your left and right levers will still match).
Keep the chain, keep the crank, keep the left shifter, keep the derailleurs... That's it. That should cost you around 30$.
If you go for a 9 speed, I'd suggest you change the chain (7 speed chain on a 9 speed cassette can be a little troublesome) and both shifters (for cosmetic reasons).
About the wheel spacing, the 2x2.5mm spacer option seems more viable to me the the fireball hotter than the sun one... Or if you can exchange the wheelset without too much hassle, do it...
Buy an 8-speed cassette.
Buy the 8-speed right shifter-brake lever combo (I presume you have the shimano ST-EF51 levers, they come in both 7 and 8 speed, so your left and right levers will still match).
Keep the chain, keep the crank, keep the left shifter, keep the derailleurs... That's it. That should cost you around 30$.
If you go for a 9 speed, I'd suggest you change the chain (7 speed chain on a 9 speed cassette can be a little troublesome) and both shifters (for cosmetic reasons).
About the wheel spacing, the 2x2.5mm spacer option seems more viable to me the the fireball hotter than the sun one... Or if you can exchange the wheelset without too much hassle, do it...
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CORWIN:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, she bought them from Velomine and they have a 60-day return policy if the item is unused.
I shot them an e-mail first thing this morning to see if they have a 'better-than-stock' wheelset on hand with 135mm rear spacing + 100mm front spacing that I could exchange.
If not, I may need to return them all together.
The "oh-no-my-new-wheels-are-130mm-and-my-bike-has-135mm-spacing" discussion appears to be a popular one online that I've searched.
Some say add a couple of 2.5mm spacers on each side or a 5mm spacer on one side and be done with it.
Others have indicated the bike will explode into a fiery ball hotter than the sun if one attempts that.
I don't have the mechanical knowledge to know how to proceed, but I know I don't want the integrity of the bike to suffer.
I made the upgrade to make the bike more efficient and reliable... not to weaken it.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, she bought them from Velomine and they have a 60-day return policy if the item is unused.
I shot them an e-mail first thing this morning to see if they have a 'better-than-stock' wheelset on hand with 135mm rear spacing + 100mm front spacing that I could exchange.
If not, I may need to return them all together.
The "oh-no-my-new-wheels-are-130mm-and-my-bike-has-135mm-spacing" discussion appears to be a popular one online that I've searched.
Some say add a couple of 2.5mm spacers on each side or a 5mm spacer on one side and be done with it.
Others have indicated the bike will explode into a fiery ball hotter than the sun if one attempts that.
I don't have the mechanical knowledge to know how to proceed, but I know I don't want the integrity of the bike to suffer.
I made the upgrade to make the bike more efficient and reliable... not to weaken it.
#11
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I'm going to call Velomine on my lunch break today and see what they say. I'd just assume exchange the rear as you mentioned which seems like the best route. It's definitely not an emergency and I'd rather do things right the first time. 135mm rear spacing seems to be more common for MTB / cyclocross applications. I don't think my rear wheel variety will be as vast as the road wheel variety, but I really need to double-check with them.
I thought for sure I had all my ducks in a row... so I'm a little bummed I missed this. meh.
I thought for sure I had all my ducks in a row... so I'm a little bummed I missed this. meh.
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Your Mrs has good taste, H Plus Son Archetype rims are good, strong and suit the swing towards wider tyres i.e. 28mm, very comfortable.
My Mrs didn't even consider buying me anything remotely comparable.
My Mrs didn't even consider buying me anything remotely comparable.
#13
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Unfortunately, I have two local LBS shops advising against trying to mount these wheels on my Trek DS. I'm so bummed.
I also received a reply from Steve at Velomine who said:
"Scott,
Unfortunately, there is no safe way to use a 5mm spacer with this application.
The axle isn’t long enough, and the new Shimano 6800 Ultegra axles aren’t the standard design so it isn’t possible to install a wider axle.
I would recommend the wheels be returned for a refund."
I appreciate him being open and honest with me... but now I'm bummed.
I was really looking forward to this upgrade.
Doing a quick search, I do not see many options for a 135mm rear space wheel. Seems like most are mountain bike applications.
I also received a reply from Steve at Velomine who said:
"Scott,
Unfortunately, there is no safe way to use a 5mm spacer with this application.
The axle isn’t long enough, and the new Shimano 6800 Ultegra axles aren’t the standard design so it isn’t possible to install a wider axle.
I would recommend the wheels be returned for a refund."
I appreciate him being open and honest with me... but now I'm bummed.
I was really looking forward to this upgrade.
Doing a quick search, I do not see many options for a 135mm rear space wheel. Seems like most are mountain bike applications.
#14
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I would start with 135mm wheels. Newer ultegra hubs use a solid axle with endcaps so you may have to get MTB hubs. or maybe you can find 135mm axle and end caps for them?
If you want to upgrade your drivetrain, you can go up to 9sp MTB without changing the rear derailleur. Just add a new shifter and chain. 10 sp on will require a new rear derailleur and will probably work with your current crankset but unless its a nice one, I personally would swap it out. 10 speed ideally requires a different crankset meta than 8sp triple.
You dont need new brakes unless your shifters are integrated to your levers and you want to add more clicks to your rear shifting. I would go ahead and run some new brake pads so that you dont scuff your new rims with old rim bits embedded in old pads.
May I suggest you just trying a close ratio cassette (12-28 ish) with the same number of gears you have now? With your current wide range triple crankset, this should provide a very adequate drivetrain. You can see how it feels and use that experience to judge how best to upgrade later on. Ridingwise, there is not much difference between 8 and 9sp. 9sp gave us a lower bailout gear over the cynical 11t "innovation" of 8sp but the main difference nowadays is in quality. Modern 8sp stuff is stamped steel with a plastic fairing, if you want quality stuff now 9sp is where it begins, at Deore which also comes in 10sp.
Ive run a few mismatched drivetrains since the 7 to 8sp conversion (I currently run the following
7sp shifter, 8sp f der + crankset + cassette, 9sp r der + chain
8 sp shifter + cassette, 9sp derailleurs + chain, 10sp crankset
7sp shifter, 5sp cassette + crank + chain, 8sp chainrings
7sp suntour shifter, 7sp shimano the rest
If you want to upgrade your drivetrain, you can go up to 9sp MTB without changing the rear derailleur. Just add a new shifter and chain. 10 sp on will require a new rear derailleur and will probably work with your current crankset but unless its a nice one, I personally would swap it out. 10 speed ideally requires a different crankset meta than 8sp triple.
You dont need new brakes unless your shifters are integrated to your levers and you want to add more clicks to your rear shifting. I would go ahead and run some new brake pads so that you dont scuff your new rims with old rim bits embedded in old pads.
May I suggest you just trying a close ratio cassette (12-28 ish) with the same number of gears you have now? With your current wide range triple crankset, this should provide a very adequate drivetrain. You can see how it feels and use that experience to judge how best to upgrade later on. Ridingwise, there is not much difference between 8 and 9sp. 9sp gave us a lower bailout gear over the cynical 11t "innovation" of 8sp but the main difference nowadays is in quality. Modern 8sp stuff is stamped steel with a plastic fairing, if you want quality stuff now 9sp is where it begins, at Deore which also comes in 10sp.
Ive run a few mismatched drivetrains since the 7 to 8sp conversion (I currently run the following
7sp shifter, 8sp f der + crankset + cassette, 9sp r der + chain
8 sp shifter + cassette, 9sp derailleurs + chain, 10sp crankset
7sp shifter, 5sp cassette + crank + chain, 8sp chainrings
7sp suntour shifter, 7sp shimano the rest
Last edited by DorkDisk; 06-26-15 at 02:00 PM.
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Thanks a lot for all that info!!
Maybe I'm not doing the right searching or using the right verbiage, but I can't find much for option for a 135mm rear wheelset with a standard 100mm in the front.
There just doesn't appear to be much out there.
Am I missing something here?
Maybe I'm not doing the right searching or using the right verbiage, but I can't find much for option for a 135mm rear wheelset with a standard 100mm in the front.
There just doesn't appear to be much out there.
Am I missing something here?
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100mm/10mm QR is a standard hub that has been used by mountain bikes and road bikes since 6sp days. Modern MTBs use oversized hollow axles that address the issue of lawyer tabs, quick releases, and hydraulic disc brakes.
135mm/9mm QR is a standard rear hub first used by MTBs on the migration to 8sp. Road bikes went from 126 to 130mm. This is the main difference, 135mm is a MTB standard. Modern MTB hubs use hollow axles here too and have moved on to 142mm. Also, MTB has move on to disk brakes. A non disc 135 QR hub has not been the standard for MTB in a while now.
The rims you want are a 700c rim. While 700c and 29" have the same rim diameter, they do have different widths. Most 29" MTB rims are too wide and too heavy for road use so watch the rim width before you order a 29er wheelset
Basically you're combining an outdated MTB hub with a road rim. Most pre-made wheels will be for either MTB or road. It is possible that they have one in the 29" section or tell them what you want although 29ers became trendy after the QR and rim brake standard was dead so finding that will be a challenge
That website shows this: New Velocity Blunt 35 29er Wheelset Black XT Hubs 6 Bolt 32h [74493] - $229.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
Those hubs with different rims is what you need
135mm/9mm QR is a standard rear hub first used by MTBs on the migration to 8sp. Road bikes went from 126 to 130mm. This is the main difference, 135mm is a MTB standard. Modern MTB hubs use hollow axles here too and have moved on to 142mm. Also, MTB has move on to disk brakes. A non disc 135 QR hub has not been the standard for MTB in a while now.
The rims you want are a 700c rim. While 700c and 29" have the same rim diameter, they do have different widths. Most 29" MTB rims are too wide and too heavy for road use so watch the rim width before you order a 29er wheelset
Basically you're combining an outdated MTB hub with a road rim. Most pre-made wheels will be for either MTB or road. It is possible that they have one in the 29" section or tell them what you want although 29ers became trendy after the QR and rim brake standard was dead so finding that will be a challenge
That website shows this: New Velocity Blunt 35 29er Wheelset Black XT Hubs 6 Bolt 32h [74493] - $229.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
Those hubs with different rims is what you need
Last edited by DorkDisk; 06-26-15 at 02:30 PM.
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100mm/10mm QR is a standard hub that has been used by mountain bikes and road bikes since 6sp days. Modern MTBs use oversized hollow axles that address the issue of lawyer tabs, quick releases, and hydraulic disc brakes.
135mm/9mm QR is a standard rear hub first used by MTBs on the migration to 8sp. Road bikes went from 126 to 130mm. This is the main difference, 135mm is a MTB standard. Modern MTB hubs use hollow axles here too and have moved on to 142mm. Also, MTB has move on to disk brakes. A non disc 135 QR hub has not been the standard for MTB in a while now.
The rims you want are a 700c rim. While 700c and 29" have the same rim diameter, they do have different widths. Most 29" MTB rims are too wide and too heavy for road use so watch the rim width before you order a 29er wheelset
Basically you're combining an outdated MTB hub with a road rim. Most pre-made wheels will be for either MTB or road. It is possible that they have one in the 29" section or tell them what you want although 29ers became trendy after the QR and rim brake standard was dead so finding that will be a challenge
That website shows this: New Velocity Blunt 35 29er Wheelset Black XT Hubs 6 Bolt 32h [74493] - $229.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
Those hubs with different rims is what you need
135mm/9mm QR is a standard rear hub first used by MTBs on the migration to 8sp. Road bikes went from 126 to 130mm. This is the main difference, 135mm is a MTB standard. Modern MTB hubs use hollow axles here too and have moved on to 142mm. Also, MTB has move on to disk brakes. A non disc 135 QR hub has not been the standard for MTB in a while now.
The rims you want are a 700c rim. While 700c and 29" have the same rim diameter, they do have different widths. Most 29" MTB rims are too wide and too heavy for road use so watch the rim width before you order a 29er wheelset
Basically you're combining an outdated MTB hub with a road rim. Most pre-made wheels will be for either MTB or road. It is possible that they have one in the 29" section or tell them what you want although 29ers became trendy after the QR and rim brake standard was dead so finding that will be a challenge
That website shows this: New Velocity Blunt 35 29er Wheelset Black XT Hubs 6 Bolt 32h [74493] - $229.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
Those hubs with different rims is what you need
I see exactly what I need, but in a road bike application - it doesn't sound like it exists.
I'm essentially attempting to turn my DS into a FX and/or road bike and the bike wants nothing to do with it.
I need 700c wheels with a 135mm rear hub and as you mentioned, I'm finding one or the other.
An aftermarket hybrid / frankenstein road wheel with 135mm rear MTB hubs does not exist.
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OK. Thanks for the thorough explanation! I appreciate you breaking it down for me like that.
I see exactly what I need, but in a road bike application - it doesn't sound like it exists.
I'm essentially attempting to turn my DS into a FX and/or road bike and the bike wants nothing to do with it.
I need 700c wheels with a 135mm rear hub and as you mentioned, I'm finding one or the other.
An aftermarket hybrid / frankenstein road wheel with 135mm rear MTB hubs does not exist.
I see exactly what I need, but in a road bike application - it doesn't sound like it exists.
I'm essentially attempting to turn my DS into a FX and/or road bike and the bike wants nothing to do with it.
I need 700c wheels with a 135mm rear hub and as you mentioned, I'm finding one or the other.
An aftermarket hybrid / frankenstein road wheel with 135mm rear MTB hubs does not exist.
Shimano-Mavic Ultegra 6800 | CXP 33 - Clincher Wheelset - QR
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OK. Thanks for the thorough explanation! I appreciate you breaking it down for me like that.
I see exactly what I need, but in a road bike application - it doesn't sound like it exists.
I'm essentially attempting to turn my DS into a FX and/or road bike and the bike wants nothing to do with it.
I need 700c wheels with a 135mm rear hub and as you mentioned, I'm finding one or the other.
An aftermarket hybrid / frankenstein road wheel with 135mm rear MTB hubs does not exist.
I see exactly what I need, but in a road bike application - it doesn't sound like it exists.
I'm essentially attempting to turn my DS into a FX and/or road bike and the bike wants nothing to do with it.
I need 700c wheels with a 135mm rear hub and as you mentioned, I'm finding one or the other.
An aftermarket hybrid / frankenstein road wheel with 135mm rear MTB hubs does not exist.