andrei_r

OK, so first of all this isn't meant to be one of those double vs. triple cranks war thread.

I would like to know which drivetrain works best for your type of riding and why, more specifically in terms of gearing, but you can also elaborate on your choice of components. Do you have a preference for closer gear spacing or a wider range? Did you do some kind of sacrifice in your choice? Do you do a lot of climbing? On or off-road? etc.. Is there another setup that you think would work better for you? (no science fiction, please).

Here's my story. I bought my FCR3 used in 2011 and it came with it's stock 8-speed 48-38-28 FSA Dynadrive crank, 12-26 sram PG-850 cassette, Sora long cage RD, SL-R440 shifters and the matching FD-R443A front mech, as well as some entry level Shimano 8-speed chain. I fell in love with the bike from day one. At that time, my daily commute featured a big hill crossing with 150m vertical climb and sometimes I had to do it twice a day with a heavy backpack (so 4 climbs per day). The gearing was low enough for me, but I felt that the Sora RD was too weak under load and the front shifter didn't give me enough trimming positions to be used with the triple crank, so it often resulted in noisy and unpleasant shifting and I had to do frequent adjustments. After doing some research, I discovered compact double cranksets and decided to give one a try. I was on a tight budget so I got a Tiagra FC-4450 crank with 170mm arms (according to my measures the ideal would have been a 172.5) and a 105 RD-5600GS derailer on eBay. I also had to change the triple FD-R443 for a double FD-R440A which I also got on eBay. I took the opportunity and got a shiny new KMC X8.93 chain which came with a quick link. I was really happy with this configuration for the last 4 years. The Tiagra crank felt super stiff and much much lighter than the original FSA dynadrive. Same for the 105 RD. The current left shifter has 4-clicks so in a double crank setup it gives me 2 positions per chainring, which is perfect, while in the triple setup, I could only trim in one chainring. The bike got overall lighter, stiffer, more responsive and much more pleasant to ride. I lost some of the low-end gearing, but the 34x26 could get me up those 500m long 14% climbs I had to deal with at the time. On the steepest sections, I had to mash out of the saddle, but it was a non-issue to me. Recently I also purchased Shimano M530 pedals with M077 shoes. I like a lot the new power transfer potential, despite having had a few "SPD moments" in front of a crowd of people.

A couple months ago, my right shifter developed some kind of play and started to misfire randomly (I now discovered that I have to press slightly up and forward to avoid it when downshifting, but it's still quite annoying). The replacement 8-speed shifter was hard to find at a reasonable price, so I ordered a similar 9-speed ST-R440 shifter on eBay. I know I could have bought pretty much any mountain rapid-fire shifter, but I like to keep the matching look and feel on my bike. I also bought a 12-27 HG-50 9-speed cassette and a 9-speed HG-53 chain from CRC for a pretty low price. Still waiting to receive my order, but my guess is that it will all feel very similar to my current setup with the advantage of having one extra gear and one extra tooth in the lowest gear.

Last week, I ran out of low gear for the first time and it made me think about what would be my next move. My most probable next step is to get an 11-30 or 11-32 9-speed cassette and an RD capable to deal with the largest cog as my current RD is rated for 27T max. Putting a longer B-screw to go 3-5T over is pushing it, so I would possibly get the newer 105RD which is rated for 30T or something from the deore and up on the mountain lineup, depending on the deal that I can get. I would probably give it a try to see if the wider gear spacing doesn't bother me too much and if a 34x30 or 34x32 is low enough for those long, steep and poor traction climbs that I have to do while carrying 4L of water and a lunch.. If I later want an even lower gear, I will probably cash out on the Sugino OX601D with 46-30 chainrings. In that case, I might also need to swap the FD for something like FD-CX70, but that won't happen any time soon anyway. The reason I am tempted by the 46-30 is because I feel that I use the 54-30 too much cross-chained at times to maintain a comfortable pace. I read some real good things about this Sugino crank and that specific chainring combination and I think it will suit my needs very well, but I would have to see it for myself.

Oh, I might also reroute the shifter cables by passing them on the top tube rather than under the bottom bracket. I would have to use full housing (some nice compressionless type) in that case and to tie wrap it to the frame. The reason is that in very dirty and dusty conditions, dirt gets into that under-the-bottom-bracket cable guide and results in hard and noisy rear shifts.

So what's your rationale behind the drivetrain that you have now on your bike or would like to have?

wvridgerider

I run 10 speed 105,30-54 with a 12-30 in the rear. It works real good and gets me up the climbs. Next for mr will be 11 speed with a 12-32 rear if I get some extra money. I used to run a triple but the double works so much nicer.

fietsbob

[TL;DR] you asked about my preference ..

Rohloff .. the 14 speed hub has a good range , and is very reliable.

corwin1968

My dream bike has a Rohloff IGH. 14 speeds that cover the full range of an MTB triple, can shift gears when sitting still, only change oil once a year, uniform chainline all the time and option of belt drive. The only drawbacks are weight (minor to me) and cost (major to me).

andrei_r

What kind of climbs do you ride? What grades, what distance, what type of surface? Do you feel that 34x30 isn't enough sometimes and thus the desire for a 12-32?

I've already heard about Rohloff internal gear hubs, but never really paid attention to them. Now, after taking a better look, I definitely want one.... or two.

fietsbob

mechanically , the R'off is even more within its own mechanical comfort range in my Bike Friday with a 53:16

than a 26"* wheel with a 34:16. though the gear range is almost identical .

* or the typical hybrid 700c ~35 tire wheel .

wvridgerider

wvridgerider's Profile

Not sure if this link works but this is typical for this area. I weigh 280 and wonder how I ride around here. This route is a combination of pavement and gravel. The 32 would just give me that extra gear but I manage with the 34-30.

andrei_r

Only your friends on mapmyride can access it. Sent you a request

What's to wonder? You ride a motor vehicle, from what I can see

Sixty Fiver

With derailleur drives on hybrids I have always liked a compact / mtb triple mated to a closer range rear block which keeps the steps in the back closer and still allows for some stump pulling low gearing.

You may not need as low a gear as you would if you were mountain biking or touring.

The ideal drivetrain is one that fits the bike's purpose and the rider's ability and budget.

ShortLegCyclist

I'm currently intrigued by the Pinion drive.

18 gears, bigger range than Rohloff and the weight is low and centered at the bottom bracket instead of at the rear hub.

But, needs a purpose built frame, cannot be retrofitted to an existing bike and costs even more than a Rohloff currently.

bobbyl1966

12-30 cassete or 12-32 is working with short cage? I have 9 speeds cassete. Wide range is okay no have big gaps between gears?

Sixty Fiver

I have a Patterson 2 speed crankset on the way and will let you know how that works out...

wvridgerider

Approved and no more dirt bike, tore up the knees. Just like that picture

andrei_r

This is very good feedback. From what I can see there are some sustained 7-10% climbs. Do you find yourself mashing out of the saddle on the steepest gravel sections or can can you do it all sitting down?

This is sort of what I have now. A compact with a 12-26 cassette, but would like to have some lower gears without losing too much on the high end and don't feel like going back to a triple. I guess I'll sacrifice the closer spacing in the back and see how I like it.

That's basically what I'm asking about: individual preferences and the reasoning leading to that choice.

So for now, I would classify that as science fiction

A short cage 5700 105 RD, for example, can officially take up to a 30T large cog and some people make it work with 32T. Where the short cage would bother, is in the compact double setup. There wouldn't be enough capacity to take up all the chain in small small combination. You would need a long cage for that. An 11-32/39-52 would work fine with a short cage. Can't tell you about wider gear range as I don't have much experience with that myself.

Now that's very interesting. Equivalent to a 28-45T, with all the advantages of an internal gear hub and without an astronomical cost. It's also just about 700-800g heavier than my current Tiagra setup with the weight being concentrated at the bottom bracket.... Please give us some feedback when you can.

ShortLegCyclist

Pinion drive isn't quite science fiction as you can buy one right now for about $5000... less than a titanium frame road bike with Ultegra or Force drivetrain.

My post might have been misleading though, when I said the weight was low, I meant it was low in terms of center of gravity on the bicycle as it is at the bottom bracket, the actual weight of the Pinion 18 speed is significantly more than a Rohloff hub, it is HEAVY.

Best suited for mountain bikes or touring bikes at this point, though lighter and less expensive 9 and 12 speed Pinion versions have been released recently.

The reason it's appealing for mountain bikes is the centering of the weight, as opposed to the tail-heavy situation a Rohloff creates.

Trailroaster

After almost a full year and about 4500Km of using my Anyroad just left 'her' yesterday at LBS for a full groupset change and some 'lighter than stock' wheels. Stock drivetrain is a 'mix and match' of Tiagra, HG500 and others and was configured as a climber with the 34/48 crank and 11-34 cogs (nothing against it but wanting something less climber).

Asked for a swap to 11 speed Ultegra stuff (170mm Crankwheel 50/34, FD, RD and chain along DA9000 Bottom bracket and RS700 shifters).

Been thinkering about cassette about going for a 11-28 or 11-32 (almost 100% for a 11-28). Need to decide it but all two are in stock at LBS.

Have a nice MTB along my hybrid, so trying to make it lighter (not needingly faster) and more road oriented.

andrei_r

Did you convert your Anyroad to a flat-bar or did it come stock as such? Either way, it's a sweet bike. I totally understand your reasoning. 50-34 and 11-28 makes perfect sense for what you want. The 34x26 hasn't failed me for a good long time, but right now, I find myself in the opposite situation. What are you doing with your old parts? I could always use a good deal .

Trailroaster

Hi Andrei

The stock bike came with hoods and dropbar and didn't liked it, so changed it to a flat bar handlebar (along the change of brake and shifters, wasn't easy but was doable).

Old parts will be thorougly cleaned, rebuilt (if needed) and kept for the anual bike stuff swap we have here. Think on the original stuff as Tiagra level so basically I don't plan to recover much of the money invested (my ROI is on healt and fun).

giantcfr1

My current set up is 34 narrow-wide x 11 - 28. This set up is best overall for me. It's fine for around the streets, and perfect for climbing Mountains. I never use my Hybrid these days for speed or KOMs, as my road bike is for that. My Hybrid is strictly for pleasure, casual rides and looks

andrei_r

Thanks for your input. I've just learned what a narrow-wide chainring is. I've seen the term many times before, but never tried to figure out what it actually meant. I'm still not sure why a single chainring setup is more prone to drop the chain. Does a front mech usually keep the chain in place on bumpy terrain?

giantcfr1

Yes the front derailleur usually holds the chain in place. On the rare occasion it can jump off.
You can buy a very cheap chain guide if you want just to be safe.
I've had zero issues with this N-W chain ring.
If you are riding a downhill MTB course, it's recommended to use a chain guide also and / or a clutch rear derailleur.

Triaxtremec

currently running a 3x8 drivetrain with a i believe and 11-30 cassette. I'm slowly getting parts to run it as a 2x10 with a compact crank, x9 rear derailleur and am 12-36 cassette with sram shifters

simplybao

This is a tough question because it depends on the bike. On my Lynskey, I run a 10 speed group. Ultegra flat bar shifters, DA FD, DA 50/34 and XTR Long cage RD with a 12-36. That cassette is crazy spaced but I love having the super crazy high 36. I do find that I hardly ever use it, but it's a comforting knowing that it's there. This bike is a "flat bar" road bike.

On my Madone, I have a 50/34 Ultegra 11 spd, with 11-32 and weird thing is I never use the 32 even on steep climbs. I rarely use the 28 and usually as high as I go is the 25. So it depends on the bike. I think if I had the dinner plate 36 on my madone, I'd hate it. I have contemplated going to a 11-28 cassette so that I can get closer gearing, but I think it's a psychological thing and having some comfort in having that bailout gear ready.

On my MTB, I run a triple XTR 9 speed setup with a 11-34 cog. The largest ring on the front is a 44 and I NEVER use it. And I love the setup on the MTB. So, I guess my answer is, there is no perfect gearing for all bikes. It depends on the bike.....clear as mud right?

ColonelSanders

Are you using your Ultegra flat bar shifters to operate the XTR rear derailleur?

I thought one couldn't mix & match the mountain bike derailleurs with road shifters?

Clyde1820

Definitely interested in the Patterson transmission. Am seriously considering it for one of mine. If you're willing, I'm sure many would love to hear all you'd care to write, evaluating the pros and cons.