Best for hilly terrain ?
#1
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Thread Starter
Best for hilly terrain ?
Which hybrid would be best for hilly terrain ?
Anything better than a 2017 Trek Verve 3 .
Anything better than a 2017 Trek Verve 3 .
#2
we be rollin'
I guess it depends on what you mean. If you need suspension forks, there are plenty of hybrids like that but if you insist on larger tires and a rigid fork, I just made a thread (Is this a 27.5 hybrid?) on the Giant ATX Lite. It has 27.5"x1.95" tires meaning the frame and fork are made to take large tires.
I understand your frustration a bit. I have a hybrid with 45c tires as well and when I take a shortcut through the woods to go to Walmart, it goes up and down many times with rocks and roots sticking out of the ground. Anyway, I want to buy a Giant ATX Lite. You can always upgrade shifters and derailleurs later if you want...
EDIT:I just did some research for the fun of it on some different sort of mountain bikes. The 26+ and 27.5+ mountain bikes. You could research the following if this is what you want: Mongoose Tyax Supa Sport (or Comp), GT Pantera Comp, Jamis Eden 26, Komodo 26 (or 27), Marin Pine Mountain, Haro Subvert HT3, Cannondale Cujo 3, Fuji Beartooth, KHS SixFifty 500+, Kona Unit (rigid forks) and Specialized Fuse 6Fattie and Ruze (women's).
ANOTHER EDIT:The Raleigh Talus 1 is a cheaper alternative. It has 27.5"x2.00" tires and rigid forks (with high-tensile steel frame).
I understand your frustration a bit. I have a hybrid with 45c tires as well and when I take a shortcut through the woods to go to Walmart, it goes up and down many times with rocks and roots sticking out of the ground. Anyway, I want to buy a Giant ATX Lite. You can always upgrade shifters and derailleurs later if you want...
EDIT:I just did some research for the fun of it on some different sort of mountain bikes. The 26+ and 27.5+ mountain bikes. You could research the following if this is what you want: Mongoose Tyax Supa Sport (or Comp), GT Pantera Comp, Jamis Eden 26, Komodo 26 (or 27), Marin Pine Mountain, Haro Subvert HT3, Cannondale Cujo 3, Fuji Beartooth, KHS SixFifty 500+, Kona Unit (rigid forks) and Specialized Fuse 6Fattie and Ruze (women's).
ANOTHER EDIT:The Raleigh Talus 1 is a cheaper alternative. It has 27.5"x2.00" tires and rigid forks (with high-tensile steel frame).
Last edited by hybridbkrdr; 11-06-16 at 09:10 PM.
#3
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I think road surface is more important to consider. If you're riding mostly on pavement, then get the lightest you can and run 28 tires and rear cassette with good climbing gears, maybe a 9-speed triple with a 12-36 cassette. Keep your brakes in good working order. Use a mirror.
#4
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As practical recommended, a 9-speed triple with a 36T cog would be good. The problem is that most fitness bikes (Giant Escape, Specialized Sirrus, Fuji Absolute, Cannondale Quick, etc.) that have a 9-speed cassette top out at 32 rather than 36. With a 26T chainring in the front, though, that's not too bad. The lowest gear on my Fuji is 26/32 (0.8125 gear ratio), and I ride plenty of hills here in central PA. It just takes working your way up to it. You could always have the bike shop swap out the cassette if you find a bike you like without low enough gearing.
One other suggestion is to get hydraulic disc brakes. I do not have them on my fitness bike, but I do have them on my mountain bike. It's a big difference in stopping power, which primarily matters on steep hills. Don't get me wrong - rim brakes serve me just fine. But when the time comes to replace that bike, I'll definitely go with disc brakes.
One other suggestion is to get hydraulic disc brakes. I do not have them on my fitness bike, but I do have them on my mountain bike. It's a big difference in stopping power, which primarily matters on steep hills. Don't get me wrong - rim brakes serve me just fine. But when the time comes to replace that bike, I'll definitely go with disc brakes.
#5
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As practical recommended, a 9-speed triple with a 36T cog would be good. The problem is that most fitness bikes (Giant Escape, Specialized Sirrus, Fuji Absolute, Cannondale Quick, etc.) that have a 9-speed cassette top out at 32 rather than 36. With a 26T chainring in the front, though, that's not too bad. The lowest gear on my Fuji is 26/32 (0.8125 gear ratio), and I ride plenty of hills here in central PA. It just takes working your way up to it. You could always have the bike shop swap out the cassette if you find a bike you like without low enough gearing.
One other suggestion is to get hydraulic disc brakes. I do not have them on my fitness bike, but I do have them on my mountain bike. It's a big difference in stopping power, which primarily matters on steep hills. Don't get me wrong - rim brakes serve me just fine. But when the time comes to replace that bike, I'll definitely go with disc brakes.
One other suggestion is to get hydraulic disc brakes. I do not have them on my fitness bike, but I do have them on my mountain bike. It's a big difference in stopping power, which primarily matters on steep hills. Don't get me wrong - rim brakes serve me just fine. But when the time comes to replace that bike, I'll definitely go with disc brakes.
#6
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Don't get me wrong. I am all in favor of spinning up hills rather than mashing. But most hybrids have a low gearing of 26 - 32, which is 22 gear inches. Moving along at 80 rpm, that is only about 5 mph. Frankly, most people have a hard time staying upright on a bike going slower than that.
When I first started riding, I always stayed in the saddle. I tried standing a few times, but it was just awkward for me. When I added bar ends (for other reasons), I found them very conducive to mashing. So now on shorter hills or even at the top of longer ones, I'll stand up.
And on really long steep climbs where I can't stand for an extended period of time, you're right - it's tougher to stay up while going so slow. That's where conditioning comes in. There are hills I can do now that I wouldn't have dreamed of two years ago.
#7
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That's a very good point.
When I first started riding, I always stayed in the saddle. I tried standing a few times, but it was just awkward for me. When I added bar ends (for other reasons), I found them very conducive to mashing. So now on shorter hills or even at the top of longer ones, I'll stand up.
And on really long steep climbs where I can't stand for an extended period of time, you're right - it's tougher to stay up while going so slow. That's where conditioning comes in. There are hills I can do now that I wouldn't have dreamed of two years ago.
When I first started riding, I always stayed in the saddle. I tried standing a few times, but it was just awkward for me. When I added bar ends (for other reasons), I found them very conducive to mashing. So now on shorter hills or even at the top of longer ones, I'll stand up.
And on really long steep climbs where I can't stand for an extended period of time, you're right - it's tougher to stay up while going so slow. That's where conditioning comes in. There are hills I can do now that I wouldn't have dreamed of two years ago.
#8
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Thread Starter
Yup, conditioning. I have considered switching out the gearing on my bike to get a lower than 1:1 gearing, but have resisted the temptation. If I can't get up a hill with 1:1 gearing, I need to work more on my conditioning. Most hybrids have a super low gear that should get even a moderately fit person up all but the steepest hills.
Which would be the better model for hilly terrain , riding on pavement .
Trek FX or Verve 3
www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/city-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx/p/1311010-2017/
www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/city-bikes/recreation-bikes/verve/verve-3/p/1324600-2017/
#10
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#11
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Don't get me wrong. I am all in favor of spinning up hills rather than mashing. But most hybrids have a low gearing of 26 - 32, which is 22 gear inches. Moving along at 80 rpm, that is only about 5 mph. Frankly, most people have a hard time staying upright on a bike going slower than that.
#12
we be rollin'
lol, you're going to climb in the saddle? The Verve 3 is a better bicycle. 26T chainring and 32T cog is enough, otherwise you're better off walking. The 9 speed drivetrain means you could upgrade the rear derailleur and shifters to 9 speed Deore. It also has larger tires.
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Yup, conditioning. I have considered switching out the gearing on my bike to get a lower than 1:1 gearing, but have resisted the temptation. If I can't get up a hill with 1:1 gearing, I need to work more on my conditioning. Most hybrids have a super low gear that should get even a moderately fit person up all but the steepest hills.
#14
Banned
The one you change the low gear chain ring on.. factories Use the crank as sold to them,
You can have your Bike Shop change that part of that component.
Example though the FX3 https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bi.../1324600-2017/
comes with a " FSA Dyna Drive, 48/36/26" You can ask them to find and fit a smaller Chainring than that 26t. [inner 4 bolt may take a 22t]
'/,
You can have your Bike Shop change that part of that component.
Example though the FX3 https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bi.../1324600-2017/
comes with a " FSA Dyna Drive, 48/36/26" You can ask them to find and fit a smaller Chainring than that 26t. [inner 4 bolt may take a 22t]
'/,
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-08-16 at 03:10 PM.
#15
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In a climbing bike, I would look for:
-Lower weight, especially in the wheels. Overall heavy bike is OK, but lighter uppers (seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars) help when rocking. Lighter wheels help acceleration.
-steeper seat angle for easier transition from out of saddle to seated
-stiff bottom bracket for full power transfer
-short chainstays.
-crankset with low tooth count (24 min) and a close ratio cassette (28t max) for many usable low gears with small jumps in between. 32t are nice but the jumps are too high between gears. I like to run the smallest chainring possible for the BCD and no larger than 28 or 30 in rear. This also allows for a short cage derailleur and snappier shifting
-lower front end than high
-wider bars than narrow to allow breathing
-maybe bar ends for leverage
-Lower weight, especially in the wheels. Overall heavy bike is OK, but lighter uppers (seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars) help when rocking. Lighter wheels help acceleration.
-steeper seat angle for easier transition from out of saddle to seated
-stiff bottom bracket for full power transfer
-short chainstays.
-crankset with low tooth count (24 min) and a close ratio cassette (28t max) for many usable low gears with small jumps in between. 32t are nice but the jumps are too high between gears. I like to run the smallest chainring possible for the BCD and no larger than 28 or 30 in rear. This also allows for a short cage derailleur and snappier shifting
-lower front end than high
-wider bars than narrow to allow breathing
-maybe bar ends for leverage
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
In a climbing bike, I would look for:
-Lower weight, especially in the wheels. Overall heavy bike is OK, but lighter uppers (seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars) help when rocking. Lighter wheels help acceleration.
-steeper seat angle for easier transition from out of saddle to seated
-stiff bottom bracket for full power transfer
-short chainstays.
-crankset with low tooth count (24 min) and a close ratio cassette (28t max) for many usable low gears with small jumps in between. 32t are nice but the jumps are too high between gears. I like to run the smallest chainring possible for the BCD and no larger than 28 or 30 in rear. This also allows for a short cage derailleur and snappier shifting
-lower front end than high
-wider bars than narrow to allow breathing
-maybe bar ends for leverage
-Lower weight, especially in the wheels. Overall heavy bike is OK, but lighter uppers (seatpost, saddle, stem, and bars) help when rocking. Lighter wheels help acceleration.
-steeper seat angle for easier transition from out of saddle to seated
-stiff bottom bracket for full power transfer
-short chainstays.
-crankset with low tooth count (24 min) and a close ratio cassette (28t max) for many usable low gears with small jumps in between. 32t are nice but the jumps are too high between gears. I like to run the smallest chainring possible for the BCD and no larger than 28 or 30 in rear. This also allows for a short cage derailleur and snappier shifting
-lower front end than high
-wider bars than narrow to allow breathing
-maybe bar ends for leverage
#17
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Its impossible for me to say; much depends on your budget, fitness, and experience cycling. What works for me might not work for you. Go check them out in person; that's the advantage of buying big brand - the showroom and the staff.
#18
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#21
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you only gonna climb?
#22
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I got a new 2016 Trek FX 7.3. (Closeout deal. The new 2017 FX 3 was $160 more, and the only difference is a carbon fork.)
In terms of hilly terrain, I just got back from what is my third ride on the bike:
15.1 miles with 1975' of elevation gain going over an Appalachian ridge (along which is the Appalachian Trail) twice. My average moving speed was 11.5mph.
There were some really steep sections: 220' over .6 miles; 100' over .13 miles; 700' over 1.25 miles.
I used every gear on my bike! I was only doing about 2.2 mph and having to lean forward to keep the front wheel on the ground going up those steep places. I hit 40.9 mph coming downhill!
So, a couple things to keep in mind:
1) Check out the gear ratios and the chain length. (Cf a CHART like this) Going up those steep hills I was at 21.9" chain length. I would have had a really hard time with anything much longer.
2) I was on paved roads the whole time, but they were a bit rough. I felt stable on the bike and always in control, and wasn't getting roughed up on the ride even at 40.9mph. That's where the frame and tires count. (The 7.3 uses 700 x 32 tires.)
In terms of hilly terrain, I just got back from what is my third ride on the bike:
15.1 miles with 1975' of elevation gain going over an Appalachian ridge (along which is the Appalachian Trail) twice. My average moving speed was 11.5mph.
There were some really steep sections: 220' over .6 miles; 100' over .13 miles; 700' over 1.25 miles.
I used every gear on my bike! I was only doing about 2.2 mph and having to lean forward to keep the front wheel on the ground going up those steep places. I hit 40.9 mph coming downhill!
So, a couple things to keep in mind:
1) Check out the gear ratios and the chain length. (Cf a CHART like this) Going up those steep hills I was at 21.9" chain length. I would have had a really hard time with anything much longer.
2) I was on paved roads the whole time, but they were a bit rough. I felt stable on the bike and always in control, and wasn't getting roughed up on the ride even at 40.9mph. That's where the frame and tires count. (The 7.3 uses 700 x 32 tires.)
#23
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... and ... drop bar road bikes are good for climbing, just watch the pros on the tour de France, right?
#24
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I bought the Verve 3 .
FX 3 rode better but Verve 3 fit better and was more comfortable .
Wondering if swapping the tires to narrower , ie , 32 , 35 , 38 , would make for easier peddling and if narrower would work well on this frame/ geometry ?
FX 3 rode better but Verve 3 fit better and was more comfortable .
Wondering if swapping the tires to narrower , ie , 32 , 35 , 38 , would make for easier peddling and if narrower would work well on this frame/ geometry ?