Toughroad SLR1 question.....
04-22-17, 05:40 PM
#26
Senior Member
Keep in mind tire pressure has a lot to do with rolling resistance, the higher the pressure the better you'll roll but will compromise comfort. Tire width plays a factor also, again, the thinner tire with higher pressure will most likely win in the rolling department.
This might help you...
Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests
This might help you...
Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests
Supple, high quality wider tires at lower pressure will roll better than thin hard sidewall tire at higher pressure in most conditions other than on a racetrack.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/...re-revolution/
The absence of tread is a compromise. Slicks will roll better but will lose traction on loose stuff. Knobbies will obviously roll worse, but give you some bite on loose climbs and descents..
Last edited by andrei_r; 04-22-17 at 06:23 PM.
04-22-17, 10:54 PM
#27
Senior Member
I would like to add this:
Supple, high quality wider tires at lower pressure will roll better than thin hard sidewall tire at higher pressure in most conditions other than on a racetrack.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/...re-revolution/
The absence of tread is a compromise. Slicks will roll better but will lose traction on loose stuff. Knobbies will obviously roll worse, but give you some bite on loose climbs and descents..
Supple, high quality wider tires at lower pressure will roll better than thin hard sidewall tire at higher pressure in most conditions other than on a racetrack.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/...re-revolution/
The absence of tread is a compromise. Slicks will roll better but will lose traction on loose stuff. Knobbies will obviously roll worse, but give you some bite on loose climbs and descents..
Something else to think about is that the bigger and wider tire, the more weight, this is why I dont think we'll see racers using anything much wider than 25mm.
Last edited by gilpi; 04-22-17 at 11:16 PM.
11-02-17, 05:21 PM
#28
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Hi there,
I was going to start a new thread but this one seemed to be relevant to my question.
I too have a Toughroad 1 and feel as though it doesn't roll as well as I would expect. I am still working on getting the correct setup on the bike (tyre pressure, seat position, handlebar width etc) so that may be part of the problem.
But I still think it just doesn't roll as well as it should. I turned the bike upside down and spun the wheels. The back wheel definitely spins longer than the front which sounds as though the brakes are rubbing.
I released the front quick release to take off the wheel but before I removed it I gave it another spin and it was completely fine. It spun for longer than the back wheel. When I tightened the quick release again it didn't spin for long.
So my question is this - is there something wrong with my QR or with the way I am tightening the QR which is causing the drag on my front wheel. Or, is it just that when I release the QR the brakes no longer rub but when it is tightened they do rub so the problem is the brake alignment not the QR or the hub?
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
I was going to start a new thread but this one seemed to be relevant to my question.
I too have a Toughroad 1 and feel as though it doesn't roll as well as I would expect. I am still working on getting the correct setup on the bike (tyre pressure, seat position, handlebar width etc) so that may be part of the problem.
But I still think it just doesn't roll as well as it should. I turned the bike upside down and spun the wheels. The back wheel definitely spins longer than the front which sounds as though the brakes are rubbing.
I released the front quick release to take off the wheel but before I removed it I gave it another spin and it was completely fine. It spun for longer than the back wheel. When I tightened the quick release again it didn't spin for long.
So my question is this - is there something wrong with my QR or with the way I am tightening the QR which is causing the drag on my front wheel. Or, is it just that when I release the QR the brakes no longer rub but when it is tightened they do rub so the problem is the brake alignment not the QR or the hub?
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
11-05-17, 09:16 PM
#29
Senior Member
It sounds like you may be over tightening the front QR. You front wheel should spin longer than your rear. Loosen up the QR a bit and make sure the rotor is not rubbing on the pads.
11-05-17, 11:58 PM
#30
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Thanks for the response.
I think I am a bit paranoid about the front wheel falling off so I over-tighten the QR.
I think the brake calipers were too close together. I used a thin flat screwdriver with a thin cloth to get a slightly larger gap without damaging the brakes. Put the wheel back on but try not to over-tighten the QR. The front wheel rolls longer than the back wheel now. I took it for a ride and it is noticeable.
Thanks again.
I think I am a bit paranoid about the front wheel falling off so I over-tighten the QR.
I think the brake calipers were too close together. I used a thin flat screwdriver with a thin cloth to get a slightly larger gap without damaging the brakes. Put the wheel back on but try not to over-tighten the QR. The front wheel rolls longer than the back wheel now. I took it for a ride and it is noticeable.
Thanks again.
11-06-17, 07:20 AM
#31
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Your wheel isn't going to fall off.
I would check and make sure you don't have the bearings too tight. The cones should be finger tight at best to allow for heat expansion.
You're brake pads will eventually go back to where they were. To adjust your brakes you need to loosen the 2 caliper bolts then squeeze the front brake. While keeping the front brake squeezed then re-tighten the caliper bolts. This will center the caliper and brake rub should go away.
I would check and make sure you don't have the bearings too tight. The cones should be finger tight at best to allow for heat expansion.
You're brake pads will eventually go back to where they were. To adjust your brakes you need to loosen the 2 caliper bolts then squeeze the front brake. While keeping the front brake squeezed then re-tighten the caliper bolts. This will center the caliper and brake rub should go away.
11-06-17, 05:49 PM
#32
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Thanks prj71 for the advice. You were right, the brake pads have already started rubbing again. I will try what you suggested but the nike is also due for it's first service so if I can't get it right hopefully the LBS will.
When you say the cones should be finger tight I'm not sure exactly what you mean (I'm a rookie). How do I test that?
Thanks again.
When you say the cones should be finger tight I'm not sure exactly what you mean (I'm a rookie). How do I test that?
Thanks again.
11-07-17, 07:43 AM
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11-07-17, 07:05 PM
#34
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[QUOTE=prj71;19977411]This should help you...
Excellent - thanks so much for that. I will do some reading and report back with my results.
Excellent - thanks so much for that. I will do some reading and report back with my results.
11-13-17, 07:43 PM
#35
Senior Member
Toughroad SLR2
The 36t chainring is a tad small.
Sure I could live with it, but it would not be my first choice.
Even though I have a triple crank on my Toughroad 2, I pretty much just use my bike as though it only had a double crank, thus I virtually have a 44/32 setup on my cranks and it is pretty good like that.
Later on this year, I'm likely to build up a LHT or Troll frame and will probably put on a 48/36/26 crank(10 speed), because there are enough times I find myself wanting more than a 44/32 crank.
Sure I could live with it, but it would not be my first choice.
Even though I have a triple crank on my Toughroad 2, I pretty much just use my bike as though it only had a double crank, thus I virtually have a 44/32 setup on my cranks and it is pretty good like that.
Later on this year, I'm likely to build up a LHT or Troll frame and will probably put on a 48/36/26 crank(10 speed), because there are enough times I find myself wanting more than a 44/32 crank.
The Crankset is pretty much the only thing I wish was a bit Diff... I would hardly use the 22 if at all.. Unless I brought the bike into a diff state than FL
The 48/36/26 crankset you mentioned is on the Roam.. I like the slightly Bigger Cog as well.. having a 3X set up wouldn't bother me at all.. I would probably stay 9 speed Cassette because I could get Deore Crank and Derailers 9 speed and save some $ staying with a 9 speed.. if I Go 10 speed, Id have to change the entire drivetrain.
Who knows what direction I'll go down the road..
11-13-17, 07:55 PM
#36
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I am buying a Toughroad SLR 2 this week.. It just fits what I need.. from Frame to its ability to do road and some trails..
The Crankset is pretty much the only thing I wish was a bit Diff... I would hardly use the 22 if at all.. Unless I brought the bike into a diff state than FL
The 48/36/26 crankset you mentioned is on the Roam.. I like the slightly Bigger Cog as well.. having a 3X set up wouldn't bother me at all.. I would probably stay 9 speed Cassette because I could get Deore Crank and Derailers 9 speed and save some $ staying with a 9 speed.. if I Go 10 speed, Id have to change the entire drivetrain.
Who knows what direction I'll go down the road..
The Crankset is pretty much the only thing I wish was a bit Diff... I would hardly use the 22 if at all.. Unless I brought the bike into a diff state than FL
The 48/36/26 crankset you mentioned is on the Roam.. I like the slightly Bigger Cog as well.. having a 3X set up wouldn't bother me at all.. I would probably stay 9 speed Cassette because I could get Deore Crank and Derailers 9 speed and save some $ staying with a 9 speed.. if I Go 10 speed, Id have to change the entire drivetrain.
Who knows what direction I'll go down the road..
Not a night and day difference, but enough to notice.
One could put on a 10 speed crank to the Toughroad SLR 2 and it would work with everything else being 9 speed.
11-13-17, 08:27 PM
#37
Senior Member
I changed out my crank on my Toughroad SLR 2 for the Shimano M590/591( I wanted the Trouser protector), which was a 9 speed crank with the same 44/32/22 setup, but the external cup BB, definitely makes for a stiffer setup and unless my mind was playing tricks on me, I felt it helped me when tackling hills.
Not a night and day difference, but enough to notice.
One could put on a 10 speed crank to the Toughroad SLR 2 and it would work with everything else being 9 speed.
Not a night and day difference, but enough to notice.
One could put on a 10 speed crank to the Toughroad SLR 2 and it would work with everything else being 9 speed.
11-13-17, 08:58 PM
#38
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I just don't want to change something out and it not match up.. But that is good to know about a 10 speed Crank.. I didn't know if it would throw things off or not.. a 10 speed Crank would be nice in case I did want to upgrade to ten speed cassette and other components later..
The biggest downside that I can see from having a 9 speed setup for a hybrid or mountain bike, is that you can't buy XT level components for a 9 speed setup anymore, from the most popular online stores.
If someone was happy enough with Deore level, then I must say that to date, my experience with 9 speed and 11 speed, has me preferring the 9 speed setups.
The only thing that I see 11 speed having going for it that 9 & 10 speed don't deliver, is the large cassettes.
11-13-17, 09:06 PM
#39
Senior Member
The biggest downside that I can see from having a 9 speed setup for a hybrid or mountain bike, is that you can't buy XT level components for a 9 speed setup anymore, from the most popular online stores.
If someone was happy enough with Deore level, then I must say that to date, my experience with 9 speed and 11 speed, has me preferring the 9 speed setups.
The only thing that I see 11 speed having going for it that 9 & 10 speed don't deliver, is the large cassettes.
If someone was happy enough with Deore level, then I must say that to date, my experience with 9 speed and 11 speed, has me preferring the 9 speed setups.
The only thing that I see 11 speed having going for it that 9 & 10 speed don't deliver, is the large cassettes.
I don't know, I personally just want a decent range of gears.. I like the top end of a BIG cog.. and Id like some what smaller cog for any incline I may encounter that the large Cog doesn't give me enough umff to get up it. I'll generally be running the 48/36 cogs with a set up I want.
I think Amazon still sells XT 9 speed components.
11-13-17, 09:09 PM
#40
Senior Member
The biggest downside that I can see from having a 9 speed setup for a hybrid or mountain bike, is that you can't buy XT level components for a 9 speed setup anymore, from the most popular online stores.
The only thing that I see 11 speed having going for it that 9 & 10 speed don't deliver, is the large cassettes.
The only thing that I see 11 speed having going for it that 9 & 10 speed don't deliver, is the large cassettes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...718ZUBOU&psc=1
11-13-17, 09:15 PM
#41
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I was previously contemplating doing a substantial 9 speed upgrade of parts on my Toughroad, but I couldn't get everything, mainly the shifters.
I find most 11 speed bike cranks aren't well suited for hybrids(if you want 44+ teeth on your big ring, a 50mm chainline and a 160+mm Q factor) , so in my future, I am likely to have a high end setup that consists of a 10 speed crank and 11 speed everything else.
11-13-17, 09:59 PM
#42
Senior Member
Yep, but now try and find XT shifters for it.
I was previously contemplating doing a substantial 9 speed upgrade of parts on my Toughroad, but I couldn't get everything, mainly the shifters.
I find most 11 speed bike cranks aren't well suited for hybrids(if you want 44+ teeth on your big ring, a 50mm chainline and a 160+mm Q factor) , so in my future, I am likely to have a high end setup that consists of a 10 speed crank and 11 speed everything else.
I was previously contemplating doing a substantial 9 speed upgrade of parts on my Toughroad, but I couldn't get everything, mainly the shifters.
I find most 11 speed bike cranks aren't well suited for hybrids(if you want 44+ teeth on your big ring, a 50mm chainline and a 160+mm Q factor) , so in my future, I am likely to have a high end setup that consists of a 10 speed crank and 11 speed everything else.
I will probably bring up the parts to Deore level atleast.. I am pretty sure I could get SLX shifters.. I think Amazon has those..
here is Deore 3 speed shifter for the front for 9speed setup.. Id be happy with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SL-M5...ter&th=1&psc=1
But.. shiza.. you are right.. 10 speed is what Id need for cassette.. so yup.. Drivetrain would have to be swapped..
haha
Id try to cannibalize a Roam 1 for its Drivetrain then.. Roam 1 has the Drivetrain I want.. But Toughroad SLR 2 has everything else I want..
I'll talk to my local Bike shop about how much it would cost to get a complete system.
11-14-17, 12:54 PM
#43
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For the sake of discussion, I'll throw this out there. 1 x 11 but not available in the U.S.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0
11-14-17, 11:14 PM
#44
Senior Member
For the sake of discussion, I'll throw this out there. 1 x 11 but not available in the U.S.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0
I just ordered the Toughroad SLR 2 today... I should have it no later than Mon.
The Toughroad SLR 0 does look good.. I saw one AUS Bike Shop's video on it... nice color too..
11-15-17, 05:08 PM
#46
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11-15-17, 08:50 PM
#48
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11-15-17, 09:44 PM
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11-15-17, 10:12 PM
#50
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I saw the Biocork.. They will look sharp on the Surly.. I am gonna get the ones with the handles.. my toughroad will look like a Bull haha