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Cannondale Quick CX Gravel Crank?

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Cannondale Quick CX Gravel Crank?

Old 06-28-23, 06:06 PM
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Cannondale Quick CX Gravel Crank?

Looking to upgrade my drivetrain from stock Shimano Tourney/Acera 2x8 to to a 1X11 with a Shimano GRX 40T crankset and Deore XT or SLX derailleur. Curious if anyone has put a Gravel crankset on their bike. Curious if it makes a difference (gravel vs MTB vs road bike) crank. Main reason for looking at the gravel crank is the availability of the 40 or 42 tooth crank. Largest chainring available on the Shimano MTB crankset (according to the website) is a 38T.
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Old 06-30-23, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bald1der
Looking to upgrade my drivetrain from stock Shimano Tourney/Acera 2x8 to to a 1X11 with a Shimano GRX 40T crankset and Deore XT or SLX derailleur. Curious if anyone has put a Gravel crankset on their bike. Curious if it makes a difference (gravel vs MTB vs road bike) crank. Main reason for looking at the gravel crank is the availability of the 40 or 42 tooth crank. Largest chainring available on the Shimano MTB crankset (according to the website) is a 38T.
First step with any MTB to road crank conversion would be to measure your BB width. 73mm is no go, 68mm is good.
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Old 06-30-23, 06:07 AM
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More info would help and DorkDisc is pointing you in the proper direction.

What year and model Quick CX is it? That will help with your initial question.

Some googlefoo yielded these links:


https://www.******.com/r/bikewrench/...eplacement_on/
The width of your bike frame where the bottom bracket goes is 73mm. The length of the rotating spindle on your bottom bracket is 122mm. The other numbers are the thread pitch - it's usually referred to as English threading or BSA threading and it's by far the most common pitch for threaded bottom brackets...
This is where things go beyond my knowledge.

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Old 06-30-23, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Trav1s
More info would help and DorkDisc is pointing you in the proper direction.

What year and model Quick CX is it? That will help with your initial question.

Some googlefoo yielded these links:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQrlb-tDgXk

https://www.******.com/r/bikewrench/...eplacement_on/
It's a 2020 Cannondale CX3 The only thing I know about the bottom bracket is that it's a square taper cartridge. And I know that will have to change. I also couldn't open your second attachment but I will do some more research. Also I did see that video in my research. Thank you.

Last edited by bald1der; 06-30-23 at 07:22 AM. Reason: add comment
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Old 06-30-23, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DorkDisk
First step with any MTB to road crank conversion would be to measure your BB width. 73mm is no go, 68mm is good.
I will have to see. I know the bottom bracket will have to be changed. It's currently a cartridge square taper.
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Old 06-30-23, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bald1der
I will have to see. I know the bottom bracket will have to be changed. It's currently a cartridge square taper.
Ya know - I wonder if there would be a crank option that would not require to change the BB and still allow to make the other changes.
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Old 06-30-23, 11:25 AM
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Sorry, I meant bottom bracket shell, as in the frame member. Road bikes use a narrower shell, thus narrower chainlines and Q factor.


This should be 68mm for a road crank

Last edited by DorkDisk; 07-01-23 at 05:57 AM. Reason: added photo
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Old 06-30-23, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Trav1s
Ya know - I wonder if there would be a crank option that would not require to change the BB and still allow to make the other changes.
I see you’re running a quick. I Didn’t think that there would be that much difference between the quick and the quick CK. I figured the basic bike from the Neck back would be the same, Guess not……
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Old 07-01-23, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bald1der
I see you’re running a quick. I Didn’t think that there would be that much difference between the quick and the quick CK. I figured the basic bike from the Neck back would be the same, Guess not……
I am also curious about the differences - geometry and component choice are definitely different.

My Quick 1 Disc came with a FSA crankset and I upgraded the crank to 105 over the winter. FSA has their own BB and once I figured out the replacement BB and purchased the tools, it was a direct swap. I know NOTHING about the cartridge BB that the CX uses (and it seems like an odd choice to me).
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Old 03-16-24, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Trav1s
I am also curious about the differences - geometry and component choice are definitely different.

My Quick 1 Disc came with a FSA crankset and I upgraded the crank to 105 over the winter. FSA has their own BB and once I figured out the replacement BB and purchased the tools, it was a direct swap. I know NOTHING about the cartridge BB that the CX uses (and it seems like an odd choice to me).
Cruising through the old inter web and came across my old post and figured I'd update you. The Quick runs a road bike geometry and running gear where as the CX is more mountain bike(barely) You are and can run the Shimano 105 whereas I will have to run the Deore as an upgrade and run the XT BB 68/73mm bottom bracket. Upgrades are a work in progress and still coming.
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Old 03-16-24, 08:23 AM
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IRD offer a crankset that works with 73mm shells and can do 30/46 or 1x. You'll still need to check the chainring clearance with the frame and its a bit pricey.
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Old 03-16-24, 11:11 AM
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I would highly caution against putting money towards a tourney equipped bike beyond enough to keep it safely riding. Save your money and get the bike you want it. If you want to build up a bike then get a nice frame and build something nice. Tourney bikes are not a good starting point they are designed to hit a price point and that is about it, it is rare the frame is much of anything and the fork is usually the same. Rideable till you get what you want but nothing to really spend morey towards.

If you are desperate to put money towards that particular bike I would look at CUES it is Shimano's new groupset designed to replace the low end Shimano with something lower cost but a little higher quality and from what I have seen here and there it looks promising. Save the XT build for a nice frame.
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Old 03-16-24, 09:06 PM
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the current rear hub with 8 speed cassette might not permit a 11 speed cassette … some will permit a Shimano 11 speed MTB cassette with a 34t or larger big cog - but it can vary … ???

so - a new rear wheel might be required - or a new rear hub / freehub

so there is that

the crankset should generally pair or match with the rest of the drivetrain (including cassette) … so there is that …

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Old 03-16-24, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bald1der
Cruising through the old inter web and came across my old post and figured I'd update you. The Quick runs a road bike geometry and running gear where as the CX is more mountain bike(barely) You are and can run the Shimano 105 whereas I will have to run the Deore as an upgrade and run the XT BB 68/73mm bottom bracket. Upgrades are a work in progress and still coming.
you are correct - I have two older Cannondale Quick hybrids: Quick CX 1 and a Quick 1 Disc

the Quick CX 1 uses MTB components

the Quick 1 Disc uses road components

both bikes were upgraded to use external BB cranksets ; the CX 1 has a Shimano XT M770 crankset and the Quick 1 Disc has a Shimano Ultegra 6800 crankset

the GRX cranksets are typically designed for bikes with 47 mm chainline … this may or may not be compatible with a Cannondale CX … ???

Last edited by t2p; 03-16-24 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 03-17-24, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
I would highly caution against putting money towards a tourney equipped bike beyond enough to keep it safely riding. Save your money and get the bike you want it. If you want to build up a bike then get a nice frame and build something nice. Tourney bikes are not a good starting point they are designed to hit a price point and that is about it, it is rare the frame is much of anything and the fork is usually the same. Rideable till you get what you want but nothing to really spend morey towards.

If you are desperate to put money towards that particular bike I would look at CUES it is Shimano's new groupset designed to replace the low end Shimano with something lower cost but a little higher quality and from what I have seen here and there it looks promising. Save the XT build for a nice frame.
While I understand the sentiment of upgrading an average bike as opposed to purchasing an upgraded bike, through my research I could get exact what I want for half or more if I do the work myself. I like my bike but just want some upgraded components. If I stick to a 11 speed which is my plan at the moment it’s a much cheaper option.
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Old 03-17-24, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by t2p
the current rear hub with 8 speed cassette might not permit a 11 speed cassette … some will permit a Shimano 11 speed MTB cassette with a 34t or larger big cog - but it can vary … ???

so - a new rear wheel might be required - or a new rear hub / freehub

so there is that

the crankset should generally pair or match with the rest of the drivetrain (including cassette) … so there is that …
My plan is to stick with a 11 speed and from my research and talking with my LBS I can go with a 11 sheep and not have to change the Hub or rear wheel.
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