Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 129
  1. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    3,819
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The wide flat bar section. If you don't ride in an aero tuck most of the time, they are a good drop bar for a hybrid. One can also go with a randonneur bar used on touring bikes but if I had to do it today, I'd go with a noodle bar.

  2. #27
    Senior Member iforgotmename's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    1,531
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I like my drops...do what makes you happy. I will be changing the frame on the bike posted to a Soma Groove this winter, my version of a 26" Fargo. Good luck and enjoy your project
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #28
    Senior Member sh00k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Times Square
    Posts
    495
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^ awesome pic.
    2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
    2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
    2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha

  4. #29
    Senior Member meanwhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,033
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As far as I can tell no one has mentioned the two key issues that are problems - brake/lever compatibility and shifter/derailer compatibility:

    Brakes -

    You've almost certainly got v-brakes. These aren't compatible with integrated road brake/shifters unless you use a gadget called a travel agent. Which often doesn't work well. Plus integrated shimano shifters - I'm guessing your bike uses shimano - are, what, $300?


    Derailers -

    You as likely as not have shimano mtb derailers, and a front mtb shifter won't be compatible with a road shifter/brake. One answer is to change the front derailer for a road derailer. Used is fine - these components live for years. A road derailer will be perfectly compatible with mtb chain rings as long as it has enough throw - which would be the case for a new mtb derailer too.


    A way around the above is to use the v-brake compatible Tektro levers designed for single speeds and either bar end shifters or the "Minoura Space Bar Hack". Do a forum search for this. Using it would get rid of all your compatibility problems and cut about $300 off your conversion cost. There are other alternatives as well - I've read that the Campag road shifters are friendly to MTB powertrain, for example, and/or you could swap the v-brakes for cantis if you decide you don't want to use a travel agent.

    Re geometry: the only problem you have is getting the stem length and height right with drops. With a few very exceptional performance hybrids this would be a problem because they have long top tubes to create a fast position with flats. You should be fine, but be prepared to experiment with different stems. Don't forget they can be flipped to slope either up or down to adjust bar height a touch.

    Also re fit - different people need different width drop bars. Google an article on bike fit that discusses this. Too wide is better than too narrow.


    Final hints:

    - If you do this work yourself it won't be hard, but cutting cable will be the toughest part. SIS gear cable has a very delicate housing the normal cable clippers can damage. Either buy an SIS cable cutter or use a dremel with a cutting disk.

    - Be wary of second hand stems and bars. Metal fatigue can produce very sudden and drastic failures!

  5. #30
    Senior Member meanwhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,033
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
    Are there different versions of that noodle bar? I looked it up and it appears to be 26mm clamp, 96mm reach, with a 140mm drop, in a few different widths. The bar clamp on the hybrid is 31.8mm, and the bars I got are only 80mm reach and only 125mm drop. Is there something else that's better about the noodle bar?
    The clamp size is set by the stem, which you are changing. At least you should be changing it. You can choose to get a stem that takes either regular road size bars or "oversize". The first would take the Noodles. Stems are also classified by steerer size and whether they are ahead or the older threaded. You almost certainly want 1 1/8 inch ahead.

    If you're not comfortable with details like this I'd recommend doing some more research before getting to the work where mistakes could be expensive or dangerous. I'm sure you'll be fine if you work on motorcycles, just take some time to go over the basics. Bicycles might not have engines but your bike could still be damn dangerous if the steering comes lose in a 40mph descent...

    And there is no such thing as a better or worse bar (at least among decent quality ones). It's more a question of fit for the rider and purpose.

  6. #31
    CX Wannabe jarelj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Midwest U.S.
    My Bikes
    2009 VooDoo Limba CX
    Posts
    67
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Already got Canti brakes (see list above), Shimano 550's, so that should be fine. The Trek 7.6fx has a Shimano Deore front derailleur (MTB-style) and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur (road-style). I know the rear derailleur works with the levers I got, I checked on that ahead of time. Not sure on the front derailleur, what is it about a MTB-style derailleur that will not work with a road shifter? Is the throw different? I figured I'd try it and see if it worked, but if not it looks like a new road front derailleur is cheap, so I'll just buy one if I need to. The stem I already got, it's a 31.8mm clamp size, so are the bars I got (FSA Omega compact), 42cm width. No worries on not taking my time and making sure everything is done right, building motorcycles to be safe at 170mph is good training to be careful not to leave any bolts loose! ha ha!
    Jarel
    2009 Voodoo Limba CX

  7. #32
    Senior Member meanwhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,033
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
    Already got Canti brakes (see list above), Shimano 550's, so that should be fine.
    Yes, they should be fine.

    The Trek 7.6fx has a Shimano Deore front derailleur (MTB-style) and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur (road-style). I know the rear derailleur works with the levers I got, I checked on that ahead of time. Not sure on the front derailleur, what is it about a MTB-style derailleur that will not work with a road shifter? Is the throw different?
    I believe it's the pull. If you want, PM me and I'll introduce you to someone who did a brifter conversion to an MTB. You can also find a thread about mtb/crosser conversion in the cyclocross forum that may be useful.

  8. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    309
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by NormanF View Post
    Get a Nitto Noodle bar. If you're not racing and don't spend most of your time on drops, its the bar to get for any bike. A racing bar is just not suitable for most riders.
    thank you sir! that's exactly what i'll do.

  9. #34
    CX Wannabe jarelj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Midwest U.S.
    My Bikes
    2009 VooDoo Limba CX
    Posts
    67
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Update: received all of the parts for the drop bar conversion this week, let the fun begin! Ok, well it also takes free time which I have none of this week, but maybe I'll be able to mess with it this weekend.....
    Jarel
    2009 Voodoo Limba CX

  10. #35
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Salamanca, Spain
    My Bikes
    GF Tassajara old school, 08 Orbea Aneto
    Posts
    44
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Question about shifters and converting from flat to drop. Maybe I'm crazy, but what is the main reason I should replace my existing flat bar Shimano R440 9spd shifters (thumb / forefinger variety) when going to a drop bar? I see that many people go with the bar end shifters and some upgrade to the brifters. The drop bar will have the option of having my hands in the "flat bar" position which would allow me to shift normally... I think.

    I am just thinking that they might not be that bad on a drop bar. Especially if I also have some of those top mount levers (Tektro RL570) along with RL520s. I find shifting not as important as braking.

    Anyway, I am curious what others think.

    Thoughts?

  11. #36
    Senior Member sh00k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Times Square
    Posts
    495
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^ i wondered the same thing and, although i have not found out for sure, i think the biggest reason to move to the drop bar shifter setup is that it's easier to shift when you're in the drops. if you dont shift frequently/have a very flat terrain ride, like you said, shifting is not as high priority as braking... you could probably get away with keeping the existing shifters and just getting brakes...

    but like i said, i duno for sure
    2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
    2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
    2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha

  12. #37
    Zensunni Wanderer KShep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    SE GA USA
    Posts
    238
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
    Update: received all of the parts for the drop bar conversion this week, let the fun begin! Ok, well it also takes free time which I have none of this week, but maybe I'll be able to mess with it this weekend.....
    Outstanding! Good luck & have fun.
    2010 Carl Strong custom Ti road bike
    2011 Trek 7.9 FX
    1990 Trek 970 Hardtail

  13. #38
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Salamanca, Spain
    My Bikes
    GF Tassajara old school, 08 Orbea Aneto
    Posts
    44
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by sh00k View Post
    ^ i wondered the same thing and, although i have not found out for sure, i think the biggest reason to move to the drop bar shifter setup is that it's easier to shift when you're in the drops. if you dont shift frequently/have a very flat terrain ride, like you said, shifting is not as high priority as braking... you could probably get away with keeping the existing shifters and just getting brakes...

    but like i said, i duno for sure
    I've been riding with a pretty cool group here for a while, most of the rides are at a moderate to slow pace for 4 - 6 hours, and I've noticed that most of the riders with drops generally have there hands in the "flat" position. Of course if its windy or if we are trying to go and a quick pace, they go to the drops, but I find those instances rare.

    I wonder if we took a poll of drop riders, where would be the most common hand position. I am guessing on the hoods which would be closer to brifters than flat bar or bar end shifters.

    Still curious though.

  14. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    3,819
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A good compromise is a moustache bar. If you don't care for riding in the drops and still want the multiple hand positions a drop bar offers.

  15. #40
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    6
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've just finished converting my new 21.5" Jamis Coda to drop bars. Perfection!

    Reasons:
    - I rode drop bars in the city for years and got used to them: multiple positions, smooth handling, narrow for squeezing between cars. Never trusted old caliper brakes, though.
    - I loved everything about the Coda except the flat bar. Tried adding bar ends but it just wasn't right.
    - New road bikes cost too much for me - largely due to fancy brifters.

    Here's what I used:
    - Cheap 41cm Zoom drop bar. Nothing fancy, but it has a flat ramp like the Noodle, which is key.
    - Tektro RL520 levers that work with V brakes. Excellent and affordable.
    - New brake noodles with barrel adjusters built in. $2 each.
    - Shimano 8-speed barcons. I wanted to get Dia Compe Silvers, but couldn't find any locally (Victoria, BC.) For a bit more $ I get the option of index shifting the rear, and cables and housing were included, so that was a good call.
    - 80mm stem to replace the 130mm stem I was using with the flat bars.
    - Sweet tan-coloured cork tape to complement the awesome, retro-stealth look of the 2009 Coda.

    Total cost of modifications about $200 Cdn. I don't know about geometry or any of that, but I got a dreamy all-around road/commuter bike for $900 total. Couldn't be happier. I just need to replace that 80mm stem with a 70mm to get the position right.

    Don't let anybody tell you you can't do it, and don't be afraid to use barcons if brifters seem too pricey. I think barcons are fine, and actually better if you want to hammer through 3 or 4 gears at a time.

    I will post a pic later if anyone is interested.

    Chris

  16. #41
    Senior Member sh00k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Times Square
    Posts
    495
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^ excellent conversion - congrats on the success. but i think all of us are dying to see pictures of it
    2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
    2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
    2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha

  17. #42
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    6
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OK, here goes...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #43
    GO BIG RED norwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Hastings,NE
    My Bikes
    1996 Bianchi Veloce 1993 Bridgestone MB-3 1992 Trek 700 1992 Trek 820
    Posts
    678
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by davidindec View Post
    Question about shifters and converting from flat to drop. Maybe I'm crazy, but what is the main reason I should replace my existing flat bar Shimano R440 9spd shifters (thumb / forefinger variety) when going to a drop bar? I see that many people go with the bar end shifters and some upgrade to the brifters. The drop bar will have the option of having my hands in the "flat bar" position which would allow me to shift normally... I think.

    I am just thinking that they might not be that bad on a drop bar. Especially if I also have some of those top mount levers (Tektro RL570) along with RL520s. I find shifting not as important as braking.

    Anyway, I am curious what others think.

    Thoughts?
    The reason is they don't fit on a road drop bar. A road drop bar is a bigger diameter (I'm not talking clamp diameter size) than a flat bar. A flat bar is generally 7/8" dia. and a drop bar is bigger. (They can vary somewhat). If you try to spread the clamps, you're apt to do damage.
    1996 Bianchi Veloce
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3
    1992 Trek 700
    1992 Trek 820

  19. #44
    Senior Member sh00k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Times Square
    Posts
    495
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cayles - that bike looks great! i dig the drop bar style brake levers but the mountain bike style brakes.
    2009 Trek FX 7.2 (Blue) -- SOLD!
    2010 Trek FX 7.7 (White) -- SOLD!
    2011 Trek FX 7.3 (White) -- Haven't sold it yet! haha

  20. #45
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Salamanca, Spain
    My Bikes
    GF Tassajara old school, 08 Orbea Aneto
    Posts
    44
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Another novice question.

    Why do the cables for barcon shifters come out of the drop wrap a fist length from the end instead of going all the way under the wrap and exiting the same place as brifters?

    Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.

  21. #46
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    6
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by davidindec View Post
    Another novice question.

    Why do the cables for barcon shifters come out of the drop wrap a fist length from the end instead of going all the way under the wrap and exiting the same place as brifters?

    Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.
    Bringing the housing out lower down is the path of least resistance for 2 reasons:
    - Fully under tape = more bends and friction.
    - Your shifters might not come with long enough housing.

    Apparently both routings work OK, though.

  22. #47
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Salamanca, Spain
    My Bikes
    GF Tassajara old school, 08 Orbea Aneto
    Posts
    44
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks cayles. Yours is a nice looking bike by the way. I don't know if I will go from flat to drop, but seeing yours and others lets me know that it is something that can be done.

    I have to admit, I would like to try it.

  23. #48
    CX Wannabe jarelj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Midwest U.S.
    My Bikes
    2009 VooDoo Limba CX
    Posts
    67
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Makin' progress!! Still lots left to do but the basic structure is in place now. I'll post some detailed final pics once it's all done and I'm able to ride the bike.

    Jarel
    2009 Voodoo Limba CX

  24. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Boston, MA
    My Bikes
    2009 Fuji Newest 1.0, 2011 Trek 3900 Disc MTB
    Posts
    1,266
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I was very interested to read these threads. I was told that I couldn't/shouldn't put drop bars on my Fuji Absolute 4.0. So I didn't.

    Instead, I switched out the stem and riser bars it came with for a flat bar that supports clip on aero bars.

    Just because someone says you can't do something, doesn't mean you can't do something even more often.

  25. #50
    I Love My Dream
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,003
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Looks good but from the photo the hoods look like they may be mounted quite high. What's it like to reach the brake leavers from the drops? I try and have the levers straight up and down, 90 degrees to the ground, it makes the levers easy to reach from both the hoods and the drops.



    The slight downward slope on the top of the bar and quite often place your hands and wrists in a more natural position. The bottom of your handlebar drops appear like they will end up close to parallel to the ground which can also be a comfortable place to pearch.
    It's none of my business what other people think of me.

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •