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  1. #1
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    Want to upgrade my Jamis Coda Comp

    Can anybody out there give me some suggestions on what components I should change to upgrade my Coda Comp? 90% of my riding is done on pretty smooth asphalt. I'd like both a little more bottom end for climbing and a little more speed. Yeah, I know, people in hell want ice-water.
    Will 29s fit between the chain stays and the fork?
    Do ceramic bearing at the crank and at the wheels help much?
    Give me some suggestions P L E A S E!

  2. #2
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tome View Post
    Can anybody out there give me some suggestions on what components I should change to upgrade my Coda Comp?
    Why? The Coda Comp is a nice bike. I know because we sell lots of them at the shop I work at.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tome View Post
    I'd like both a little more bottom end for climbing and a little more speed.
    It has a compact crank (50, 39, 30) and an 11-32 cassette. About the only thing with easier climbing gears is a mtn bike.
    Speed comes with stronger legs, better lungs, and higher gears.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tome View Post
    Do ceramic bearing at the crank and at the wheels help much?
    No. They might if you had a top end road bike.

    Just ride the bike and enjoy it. Next year you can turn the Comp into a commuter bike to ride to the store, library, bank, etc. Then upgrade to a NICE road bike.
    Last edited by RonH; 08-30-09 at 07:29 AM.
    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2013 Cannondale CAAD 10 2 (5) "Racing Edition"

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  3. #3
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    You could slap on a 34t cassette to help your bottom end, maybe (depending on the crankset) you can swap out your smallest chainring for one a few teeth smaller.

    Wait, you want more speed, TOO? I assume it has an 11tooth small cog on the cassette, so you could once again upgrade the larger chainring on your crankset, a few teeth more, again, if possible even.

    Or, just work on your legs and lungs.

    also, you ask if 29 tires will fit, you don't want to go wider for speed, you want to go narrow! I had some Michelin Krylion Carbon 700x23 tires on the road bike I sold, those tires rocked. Fast, extremely puncture resistant, and very light. There are other good tires out there, that's just my personal experience

    I agree on the road bike...kind of. I didn't like drops, and the brake levers/shifters that go with them. But it was FAST. But you want to have easy up hills, so a road bike is likely not for you anyways.

    If your hubs are not sealed bearings, you may benefit a little by having the bearings re-packed. I always seem to notice a little difference the first time I do that myself, I use park bike grease and it is some slick stuff. Most bike shops ive ever been in use the same that I can tell.

    But in the end, wanting hill climbing and top speed are sometimes difficult with the same bike. That is why this is the Hybrid area, we combine the best of both, to get something in the middle

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    OK, thanks guys. I guess I'll stick with the gearing I've got. I'm definitely going to upgrade on my wheels. I'm wondering about things like crankset, Bottom Bracket set, handlebars and seat post. The Coda Comp has a suspension seatpost but I can't feel it when I ride. Maybe changing to a carbon fiber would be better or would the weight difference even matter?

  5. #5
    Life is good RonH's Avatar
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    Replace the seatpost with a standard non-suspension seatpost. Carbon will save a few ounces. You could save more than that by cutting back on your portion size at supper for a few days.
    You could also move up to 700x23 tires. That would save a few ounces too.
    My bikes --> 2001 Litespeed Tuscany---2013 Cannondale CAAD 10 2 (5) "Racing Edition"

    Life is like a 10-speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use. ~ Charles Schultz

  6. #6
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    if you dont want the suspension seatpost, just replace it with a good quality (easton?) aluminum post. That alone will drop a lot of weight for little money. Unless your in shape to be racing professionally, or even on a smaller level, you might be better off eating less to save weight rather than buy expensive components. I dont think many members here will be able to tell the difference in speed between 20 and 21 lbs bikes, if drivetrain and wheelsets are the same.

    if you really wanna cut weight somewhere, a lighter wheelset, tubes, and tires make more difference. All that weight is rotating weight: you gotta put more effort in to move it. Great for training and fitness though!

  7. #7
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    Thompson zero offset.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by qmsdc15 View Post
    Thompson zero offset.
    Yep, that would be a quality recommendation!

  9. #9
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    I agree with you also. Everything you have said in this thread is good advice.

  10. #10
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    Thanks! I try to give people good advice when it comes to bikes. My mountain bike is my pride and joy, and has taught me a LOT about bicycle repair, and bikes in general. Though, she don't see much offroad these days, mostly canal path riding!

    A carbon seatpost and handlebars might drop a little weight, and may even dampen some vibrations, but you can get much higher quality aluminum components for the price of the low end carbon. I dont own anything carbon anymore. Oh, wait, yes i do: a headset spacer on my mtb...Put it on only for the weave pattern, looks cool , not that its very visible unless your close to my bike.

    I say ditch your suspension seatpost and get a thompson, easton, or other high quality aluminum seatpost. Oh, and dont forget a light layer of grease on the seatpost before inserting it, you do not want to experience aluminum/steel bonding! No need for carbon, IMO. Leave the other stuff alone for now, and work on building endurance up hills. Do some sprinting with resting in between. Push your self a little at a time (do not go too far with it) untill you get stronger as a cyclist. Learning to peddle off the saddle properly, and learning to spin instead of mash helped me zoom right up hills. Spinning out of the saddle takes practice. Lots of it. If your bike is wobbling side to side a lot out of saddle, your probably mashing or tired.

    Just some more thoughts. Sorry that turned out longer than I expected...

  11. #11
    Senior Member Terrierman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tome View Post
    OK, thanks guys. I guess I'll stick with the gearing I've got. I'm definitely going to upgrade on my wheels. I'm wondering about things like crankset, Bottom Bracket set, handlebars and seat post. The Coda Comp has a suspension seatpost but I can't feel it when I ride. Maybe changing to a carbon fiber would be better or would the weight difference even matter?
    I ditched the factory post for carbon on my Coda Elite. The weight difference is small, but rigid post is, in my opinion, better. Better = more comfortable, easier to get saddle adjusted for optimum comfort, and more efficient use of energy.

    Coda's have the gears, you can hardly find a bike with wider range. (My chainring is 52-42-30, cassette is 11-32 ). Some folks think that's a bad thing as the difference between different gears is larger with the Coda type of cassette than you find on most road bikes. Me, I think its a good thing and I use them all now and again. Better wheels will be money well spent. What tires to you ride? I like Continental Ultra Gatorskins, they seem to have a decent mix of toughness, comfort and rolling resistance. Mine are 700x28. If you want to roll faster, and are willing to give up the comfort, going to 700x23 would help.
    It's all downhill from here. Except the parts that are uphill.

  12. #12
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    I recently purchased a Coda Sport. I'm really enjoying it and like the looks of it. I swapped the seat post for a carbon one and the ride is still good. It saved a few ounces over the heavier suspension post.

    I had previously posted some pics of the bike if you wanted to see the carbon post:
    Jamis Coda Sport

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