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Old 03-25-10, 05:19 PM   #1
dr1445
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trek 3700 hybridize

i picked up a 2009 trek 3700 that has been living outside, leaning on a shed wall for short $. the chrome is flaking off one leg of the suntour fork slider. i am thinking disc brakes for this project, trek states the drop outs are disc compatible and indeed it seems trek makes a disc brake caliper holder for the rear @ around $15. front fork needs to replaced [rigid type] so that is not a problem. should i go 29er or stick with 26 wheels and i am curious about which disc rotor diameter to use, no experience here with disc brakes.

it looks like around $300 for the 3700 project including the cost of the bike. i tried to look at the kona dew plus but no dealer had one in stock and could not provide a promise date for getting one in and a special order is extra shipping. i am out on 1 to 2 hr rides 3-5 days a week, so i don't need the best best stuff just serviceable.
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Old 03-25-10, 05:33 PM   #2
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I just got a 2009 Kona Dew Plus for $470. I bet you can get a regular 2009 Dew cheaper if you call around.

If you decide to go 29er, I'm not sure the geometry of the frame will allow that. Will the tire rub on the chainstay bridge? As for the front, the headtube may not be designed for that rake angle will be different and put more stress on it. I'm not a mechanic, this is just me thinking through keyboard.

I'll PM this thread to Dan, he's a mechanic and should be able to answer you properly.
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Old 03-25-10, 05:52 PM   #3
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I use a 'roadified' hardtail -- have done for years. FWIW:
1. Don't go or try to go '29er' -- why would you? There is nothing (contrary to what the Apostles of the Church of 29 may claim) to be gained, other than mucking up the geometry of that frame. Why waste the money? It was/is designed for 559 (aka 26") wheels. If you want a '29er', start over
2. Do obtain a proper suspension-correct rigid fork. Something around 440 mm axle-to-crown (aka L1 dimension) will work perfectly. +/- 5 mm is fine.
3. If you want discs (why not), standard xc 6" rotors front and rear. You're asking in the 'Hybrid' form, so I'm assuming on/light off-road use for the bike.
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Old 03-25-10, 06:41 PM   #4
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The 3700 won't fit 29er wheels.
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Old 03-25-10, 07:47 PM   #5
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i just dropped a 27 with 1 1/4 tire and wheel in the rear, since there is no upper bridge the 27 fits with clearance and the lower bridge has about 5/16" clear. how tall are those 29ers with tire mounted, taller than the 27 with tire? not to sure how the front would work out, but the 29er wheel and tire with 700c type fork are already taller than the 26 but you need to add the 60mm fork travel to the 26. if the 29er turned out to be taller that would slow down the steering for street use which might be desirable. i don't have a 29er wheel and tire anyone have an idea on the diameter?
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Old 03-25-10, 08:16 PM   #6
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In diameter a 29er rim is the same as a 700c rim, but is wider. regardless, if your 3700 is rim brake you might be screwed the pads will probably not reach the braking surface.
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Old 03-25-10, 08:19 PM   #7
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^^^ That's Dan.
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Old 03-26-10, 06:27 AM   #8
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'29er' is marketing-speak for 700c (road standard) rims (usually wider) on which are fitted 2"+/- mtb tires; with a 2" tire, the total diameter of such a wheel is approximately 29", hence '29er'.

What you put on the bike as a test sounds like simply a 700c rim with a standard-width 32c road/touring tire -- not the same thing at all.

Most mtb frames (i.e. '26er') will accept road rims with clearance for up to 28c road tires front and rear, hence (for a while) the fad of slapping such wheels on for street/training use (e.g. Cannondale Bad Boy, etc). As long as you use disc brakes, no problem. If that's what you're thinking of doing, it'll work pretty well, though again I've never got the point of doing this.

Most mtb frames based on '26er' wheels will not take '29er' wheel/tire combinations -- not enough proper clearance at the front with either a suspension fork or with a properly-sized rigid fork.

Again, I suppose you could buy/fit a '29er' suspension or rigid fork, but why?? All you'd succeed in doing is completely screwing up the geometry/handling of the frame -- everything would be 'choppered' out, trail would be wrong, etc.
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Old 03-26-10, 07:16 AM   #9
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it depends on how you define handling, a quick steering woods set up might be not be stable at higher speeds. in which case kicking out the front end ala a limited chopper style might be a better setup. since i ride 100% street it might be a better for my application. also there are more tire choices for street 700c tires. i would like to go 700 x 35 but finding a 135mm 700 disc brake wheel might be a problem for the rear. also i did not fit a 700 as a test, i used 27" wheel and tire which should be taller than a 29er/700 and had clearance.
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Old 03-26-10, 10:02 AM   #10
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it depends on how you define handling, a quick steering woods set up might be not be stable at higher speeds. in which case kicking out the front end ala a limited chopper style might be a better setup. since i ride 100% street it might be a better for my application. also there are more tire choices for street 700c tires. i would like to go 700 x 35 but finding a 135mm 700 disc brake wheel might be a problem for the rear. also i did not fit a 700 as a test, i used 27" wheel and tire which should be taller than a 29er/700 and had clearance.
Fair enough -- whatever works for you is of course right
My point stands, though, re. handling.
You really shouldn't/wouldn't have a problem finding a disc wheelset in 700c with 135 rear spacing; Mavic SpeedCity comes to mind as an aftermarket option, and there are many bikes out there with 'em stock. You could also easily build one or have one built.
If you're talking 'wider' street tires (i.e. say around 32c and up), it was indeed the case that in North America availablility in "26inch wheel" was limited (relative to 700c), but that is no longer so. There are many, many options for road/touring tires in the 26 size now, ranging from cheap n'nasty to the very highest quality.
Good luck.
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Old 03-26-10, 03:16 PM   #11
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I'd love to see how this turns out. Don't forget to post pics and give us a write up!
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Old 03-26-10, 05:40 PM   #12
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i just repacked the wheels, found a broken rear axle, removed then cleaned up the bottom bracket. put it back together, serviced the brakes and took a quick ride. the bike is on the tall side for me, looks like 26" are the ticket, no need to add to height. swapped the 175 crankset for a 170. i ordered the rear caliper holder when i went to pick up a new axle. i was surprised to find the rear cogs were a freewheel not a cassette.
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Old 04-15-10, 08:55 AM   #13
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i found a broken frame trek 8500 on cl, so now i have hydraulic disc brakes and 9 speeds for under $300 including the bike cost. i just got it it together and put about 10 miles on to fine tune the shifting. unfortunately i could not use the xt crankset [44/34/22] as it was just to low for street use. i am using the original trek supplied suntour 48/38/28 the rear is 11-32.

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