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Old 05-13-10, 12:56 PM   #26
ahson
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Thanks MattyA for all the information. You're very helpful.

I am just deciding whether the FX 7.5 will be overkill for what I'll use for the bike. Anyways thanks again!
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Old 05-13-10, 04:22 PM   #27
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Can I ask you where you ride the most on your FX 7.5? Do you mainly go on paved bike trails, neighbourhood? Or do you actually take it to the open road?

I am just trying to make the final decision on whether the FX 7.3 or FX 7.5 as I mostly ride on bike trails, neighbourhood. Around 15-25 mile per trip.

I have couple bikes myself, a few vintage roadies and a 'hybridized' mtb. So I am very sure that I want a hybrid instead of a road bike because of the geometry and less aggressive seating position. Now it's just the matter of if 7.5 is a bit too much, overkill for bike trail kinds of riding?
I have the 2010 model of the 7.5fx, same size as the OP. I ride on rails to trails type stuff quite often and road ride for 30-50 miles, mostly country roads. I also hook the bike up to a trainer when its raining or freezing out. The bike is a good bike and handles very well, it has put up with a decent amount of abuse so far, I love to ride it and find it to be a quality bike. I did flip the stem and go the handlebar lower, it makes it better handling for me, I also stuck a set of spd pedals onto it, but other than that have kept it stock. I am intrigued by the OPs changes to his bike, quite a change from stock. I do agree with changing the brakes out. The stock ones arent the best in the world and if I am in the mood to spend some money I could see upgrading this area.

I think the 7.5 fx offers quite a bit over the 7.3, which I was originally thinking of buying. It just has a better component spec and wheels, which when you ride you really feel the difference. I think the price jump is quite justified.
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Old 05-15-10, 09:58 AM   #28
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Ah brakes... I went through the transition when motorcycles went from all drums to discs... no comparison, drums suck (not to mention you get far more momentum and mass with motorcycles). Pressure brakes are OK, but I'd bet discs would be better still (of course, I've never ridden discs on bicycles, yet). If the difference between pressure and disc brakes is as much as I've experienced, then I'd defiantly go for discs on the bicycle. Somehow I think Trek will eventually go discs on fx and 7XXX series bikes.
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Old 05-15-10, 10:15 AM   #29
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I finally made up my mind and pulled the trigger on the FX 7.5, nickel. Need to special order my size in so it will be another week before I can see my new bike! Thanks for your help MattyA.
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Old 05-15-10, 01:56 PM   #30
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Somehow I think Trek will eventually go discs on fx and 7XXX series bikes.
Actually it has gone in the opposite direction. A few years ago there was a 7.3 disc version which is no longer produced. My guess is that most of the folks who ride an FX do so in conditions where disc brakes are not useful relative to the weight and cost they add.
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Old 05-15-10, 01:56 PM   #31
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I finally made up my mind and pulled the trigger on the FX 7.5, nickel.
Congrats!!! Let us know how you like it!! Cheers, Matt.
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Old 05-15-10, 08:04 PM   #32
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I really wish I had seen / tried this bike when I made my purchase last August. Like the OP, I got a great deal on a 2009 Gary Fisher Zebrano since the 2010s were coming out. While I really like my Zebrano, I'd love to shed a few lbs off the overall weight.

I did try the 7.3 at the LBS, and decided against it.

Thanks for sharing this info, Matt. It is really helpful, and perhaps we'll bump into each other on the Chicagoland trails.
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Old 05-20-10, 09:38 PM   #33
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Just picked up my bike but on some gears the chain rubs/hits the front derailieur. Is that even normal? I know a triple crank is pretty hard to make all gears to be quite and smooth but I could be wrong??

Also I got a 25' frame as I am a tall dude, however the seatpost doesn't stick that much now. I see most of you have a lot of seatpost sticking out, does that means that should be the way it goes?
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Old 05-20-10, 09:57 PM   #34
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on some gears the chain rubs/hits the front derailieur. Is that even normal?
Which gears? If you are on the smallest front ring and the 1-2 smallest rear cogs, I'd expect it would not be smooth. Same goes with the big ring up front and the 1-2 biggest cogs. In that case you might get some rubbing on the FD. It is not a very efficient chainline either...not an ideal set of gears to be in. The bike has 27 speeds in theory but in practice it is less.

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the seatpost doesn't stick that much now. I see most of you have a lot of seatpost sticking out
I would not be concerned. If the bike fits, wear it!
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Old 05-21-10, 04:30 PM   #35
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Which gears? If you are on the smallest front ring and the 1-2 smallest rear cogs, I'd expect it would not be smooth. Same goes with the big ring up front and the 1-2 biggest cogs. In that case you might get some rubbing on the FD. It is not a very efficient chainline either...not an ideal set of gears to be in. The bike has 27 speeds in theory but in practice it is less.



I would not be concerned. If the bike fits, wear it!
Cool, good to know I am not the only guy having the FD rubbing issue. I love this bike a lot and riding much longer and further than before. Even though this bike isn't the fastest one I've ever owned but the FX7.5 has speed and also comfort, which I care the most.

Those brakes on the bike are still new and maybe need time to break in, but they feel really sluggish not the sharp stop feeling I expected.

I am thinking to get some 700x28c to replace the stock tires, but still deciding if that worth it or not.

Last edited by ahson; 05-21-10 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 05-22-10, 07:37 AM   #36
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But, they sure do look cool! I should consider changing my Crosstrail to discs.......
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Old 05-22-10, 08:28 AM   #37
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Just picked up my bike but on some gears the chain rubs/hits the front derailieur. Is that even normal? I know a triple crank is pretty hard to make all gears to be quite and smooth but I could be wrong??

Also I got a 25' frame as I am a tall dude, however the seatpost doesn't stick that much now. I see most of you have a lot of seatpost sticking out, does that means that should be the way it goes?

No it is not normal. The front derailleur should not rub. It's probably just a matter of a simple barrel adjustment. Even with cross chaining it should not rub. One of my bikes is a triple with 10 speeds and it does not rub at cross chaining (which really does put strain on it...) I would take it back to have it adjusted.

As for the seat post sticking out, it should not show THAT much. If the bike is fitted properly then that is all you really need to be concerned about. If it's too high then it might not fit you properly.

Regarding the brakes: Like most brakes it takes a little time for them to seat and the rotors as well. You should be okay here.

Congrats on the new bike and enjoy!
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Old 05-22-10, 10:10 PM   #38
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No it is not normal. The front derailleur should not rub. It's probably just a matter of a simple barrel adjustment. Even with cross chaining it should not rub. One of my bikes is a triple with 10 speeds and it does not rub at cross chaining (which really does put strain on it...) I would take it back to have it adjusted.

As for the seat post sticking out, it should not show THAT much. If the bike is fitted properly then that is all you really need to be concerned about. If it's too high then it might not fit you properly.

Regarding the brakes: Like most brakes it takes a little time for them to seat and the rotors as well. You should be okay here.

Congrats on the new bike and enjoy!
Thx Siu Blue Wind. I'll bring my bike back to the shop and let them fix it. I remember longgg time ago, there was a bike mechanic told me the chain will rub the FD when it's cross chaining, I guess he was wrong. Good to know the truth!
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Old 05-23-10, 06:57 AM   #39
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Actually it has gone in the opposite direction. A few years ago there was a 7.3 disc version which is no longer produced. My guess is that most of the folks who ride an FX do so in conditions where disc brakes are not useful relative to the weight and cost they add.
Interesting... I use my bike for exercise mostly, so pushing hard and going fast (for my conditioning and bike, not as fast as others!) is what I do. I found discs (mc) to be a lot "surer" AND had a scary experience on a bike when I got hit with a rain shower before I got back home. All of which makes me feel they WOULD be better!

I'm sure I could retrofit, BUT my first priority is ditching these "twist" shifters I detest!

BTW, I also DO have issues shifting my chainrings... but just upshifting (to next size up). I "learned" from the owner of this new bike shop I went to (a block from me!) that granny & middle ones have a kind of "dimple" on the inside that is needed to "help" the derailleur get the chain up to the next gear... mine are pretty worn and he said I need to consider new ones soon. I have a good old USA made steel frame so re-doing the whole drive train I think IS in my future... more so than disc brakes much as I'd like to have them!

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Old 05-23-10, 07:28 AM   #40
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sounds like you bought and built a bike you didn't need. oh well, hang it up and keep it clean. enjoy your riding!
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Old 05-23-10, 07:32 AM   #41
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sounds like you bought and built a bike you didn't need.
Yep, that's what it comes down to!!!!
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Old 05-23-10, 07:51 AM   #42
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Soooooooo, what's your point - it's still a really cool bike - and perfect for the kind of riding we do around here. I could really enjoy that bike - you did a very nice job on it - and that is exactly what hobbies are for. (Who says a hobby can't be healthy, useful, and fun?)

Time to start watching for a set of 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, a lightweight rack for errands, and some easily removable panniers for stuffing groceries into.... LOLl
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Old 12-29-10, 01:54 PM   #43
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MattyA - Killer ride and killer specs! You built the bike that you didnt need while I bought the bike I didnt need! i got rid of the 7.7 and got a 7.3 instead. I'm going to start hawking craigslist for parts now and build something even nicer

It's a shame though you have no use for this bike. I imagine it rides nicer than the 7.7 I had... some of your components are certainly better than the 7.7 I had. l0l
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Old 12-29-10, 10:59 PM   #44
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Man, I haven't been in this forum forever but am still subscribed to this thread!!

sh00k, great to hear from you after so long!! Sorry to hear you sold your 7.7FX, but the more miles I log the more I realize that a flat bar road bike has very limited usefulness. I still use a hybrid to commute (a Trek Valencia), but for any kind of training I'm on my road bike or tri bike. Usually my tri bike...I put almost 1,500 miles on that bike this spring/summer. I actually think my short lived obsession with my modified 7.5FX was a very positive learning experience about the technicalities, economics and logistics of building up a nice bike. And I was able to sell it for enough to recover significantly more of my investment than I expected.

All told I don't regret what I did, although the bike I ended up with was silly.

cheers,
Matt
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Old 12-30-10, 03:11 PM   #45
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Matt - I read all your posts in this thread and agree 100% with everything you said. The R770 shifters are amazing. That soft, silky click feel is is incredible and doesn't skip a beat - like clockwork. Downshifting two gears at a time is no problem with those shifter and the system doesn't hiccup at all. you are right about the stock shifters on the 7.3 - yeah, they do the job, but they're unnecessarily huge and very tacky looking. reminds me of shifters on a toys r us mountain bike.

I think anyone considering the move to a higher priced bike should definitely take one for a test ride before hand. I agree that the prices are really high for a bike but the difference in quality and ride and unparalleled - it all depends on what you want. If you just want a bike to keep fit, a 7.3 is perfect. if you are into really long rides, the ride quality of the 7.5+ would be ideal. that's not to say that you can't take long rides on the lower end models - i certainly plan on taking some 40 mile rides on my 7.3 this upcoming spring. i even took a few 40 miles rides on my 7.2 without issue.

Matt - I wish i had seen this post earlier. i would have bought all your components l0l. but im glad you got a good amount of money back on the sale. I realized the 7.7 was way too much for the type of riding i wanted to do which is why i scaled back to the 7.3. yeah i lost money on it but it wasn't such a huge difference. im glad i got the bike i wanted for the exact type of riding i do. i'm definitely not a serious rider like you are

Last edited by sh00k; 12-30-10 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 12-30-10, 04:45 PM   #46
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Oh so pretty. Oh, so pretty.

I've been dreaming of turning my Jamis Coda into a long distance bike...
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Old 03-05-11, 11:12 AM   #47
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Here is the thread. Richard
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Old 03-05-11, 05:03 PM   #48
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Strangely, the Avid brakes also make a huge difference. Much more so than I expected. The stock SD3 brakes on the Bontrager SSR rims were just terrible.
Then, assuming that the pads on the old brakes weren't messed up, your mechanic did something wrong. There really isn't room for this type of interaction between rim and brake.
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Old 03-05-11, 05:05 PM   #49
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Why not just spoon on a set of Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, 700X40, from Niagara for $27 each (a really really good sale price,) and you have your, trail/path ready, hybrid back again. As these are folders, they sure don't weigh much...... Soft ride, fast spin up, roll easy, wide enuf for anything -------
That's an excellent price, but for trail use I'd go for Duremes - Supremes with a just a little tread. Very fast on the road, at least half decent on hard dirt.
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Old 03-05-11, 07:25 PM   #50
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Then, assuming that the pads on the old brakes weren't messed up, your mechanic did something wrong. There really isn't room for this type of interaction between rim and brake.
For future reference you should realize that Trek inserts small spring dampers into the brake cable housing ends of some of its hybrid type bikes. The 7000 series all get these springs and some of the FX series get them also. This is probably a liability issue as far as Trek is concerned as these types of bikes are often purchased by neophytes. The end result is a somewhat mushy feel with decreased responsiveness and stopping performance. It has nothing to do with the pad/rim interaction per se. For increased brake performance one just has to remove the spring(s).
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