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  1. #1
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Fitting your Hybrid. ( short video )

    This is how I have my Hybrid set up for ( me ), it my not be perfect, but it seems to work the
    best. My arms appear to be locked forward, but there is plenty of room to bend my elbows,
    just the way I was riding. Any tips, or advice on improving would be greatly appreciated.
    But let's keep it to constructive comments please. Richard

  2. #2
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    Looks ok to me, but I'm just getting back into biking myself.
    After getting a sore backside from the last few days cycling I realised that my seat was a touch too far to the rear, so before I went out today I move it forwards, just a few mm, and lowered it slightly as I found I had no travel over bumps, again, just a few mm, probably 4 at most. I also took the tire pressure down a notch, as they were solid from the LBS.
    It seems to have made a difference, previous sections of the canal path that smacked the seat into my backside constantly were smoother, and the ride felt nice over all, no real issues with my wrists today either.

    I didn't do anything dramatic, just made a few minor adjustments based on what I felt needed doing after the last few days riding it. Will see if I still feel the same tomorrow.

  3. #3
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    I'm surprised.

    Quote Originally Posted by Amheirchion View Post
    Looks ok to me, but I'm just getting back into biking myself.
    After getting a sore backside from the last few days cycling I realised that my seat was a touch too far to the rear, so before I went out today I move it forwards, just a few mm, and lowered it slightly as I found I had no travel over bumps, again, just a few mm, probably 4 at most. I also took the tire pressure down a notch, as they were solid from the LBS.
    It seems to have made a difference, previous sections of the canal path that smacked the seat into my backside constantly were smoother, and the ride felt nice over all, no real issues with my wrists today either.

    I didn't do anything dramatic, just made a few minor adjustments based on what I felt needed doing after the last few days riding it. Will see if I still feel the same tomorrow.
    I'm surprised at the small minor adjustments, that effect your comfort, I would always give the saddle at least 2 weeks before rushing out and buying a new one. Mine was perfect for me, but a little time off the bike, and I was sore after 5 miles, keep riding. Now no problem..
    I'm lucky, never had any wrist problems, but do use large grips, and take one hand off ever so often, to rest....The more comfortable I am, the more I want to ride... Richard

  4. #4
    Senior Member KungPaoSchwinn's Avatar
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    Looks like you can raise the saddle up a bit,your not getting the full down stroke.
    2009 Trek FX 7.3

  5. #5
    Senior Member Loose Chain's Avatar
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    I would say the saddle looks about right, if the leg goes full straight/full extension then the saddle is to high and this will cause numerous issues.
    Steel is Real

    I was once told that only _ussies needed lower than 42/21 gearing.

    Steel Bike Club Member 212

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  6. #6
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    i also want to ask a question about bike fit. according to competitive cyclist

    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

    and different sizing systems my ideal effective top tube length should be like this:


    The Competitive Fit (cm)
    Top tube length: 51.2 - 51.6

    The Eddy Fit (cm)
    Top tube length: 51.2 - 51.6

    The French Fit (cm)
    Top tube length: 52.4 - 52.8
    but i recognised that my fx's effective top tube length is 56 cm and i don't know its angle but stem (it is the stock one) length is 10 cm.

    my arm length is 63 cm (forearm 33cm). and if i sum these values toptube and stem length it is 66cm and 3cm bigger than my overall arm length. and when riding i recognise that my arms are too straight. but in the friend's video his arms were quite bend when holding the handlebar.

    what do you suggest? should i replace stem with a short one. i read something about stem angle in this forum but dunno what it does. so what should be stem angle? any suggestions would be appreciated..

    and after examining trek fx series geometry i recognised that their effective tube length is between 54 and 60 cm's. is this means no bike in the fx series fit me because according to results effective top tube lenght should be between 51 and 53 cm for me.

    or my arms too short? until today i was thinking that they were tall enough or at least normal.

    the only bike which's geometry and effective top tube length seems more suitable to me is that. and it is my new favourite

    http://salsacycles.com/bikes/casseroll_single

    i ask these because long ridings makes my shoulders sore.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Loose Chain's Avatar
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    I believe that article with the French fit and Eddy fit and all of that is assuming a drop bar bike.

    It seems that some if not most hybrid bikes I have measured seem a little longer on the top tube than equivalent sized road bikes with drop bars. This is because you have no drop (duh) or hood positions (to reach forward/down/out to) and then hybrids are designed for a more upright position to begin with and therefore the top tube length and geometry are designed with that in mind.

    I think that article and the "Rivandale" fit are all sort of BS. For one thing, Italian and Europeon bikes of the "Eddy" era tended to be square or under square in that the tt was shorter than the seat tube. Many bikes today are over square or longer on the top tube than the seat post (yes, even taking into account the compact geometry, speaking "effective" here for both measurements). JMO
    Last edited by Loose Chain; 07-06-10 at 01:40 PM.
    Steel is Real

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  8. #8
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    I did last night.

    Quote Originally Posted by KungPaoSchwinn View Post
    Looks like you can raise the saddle up a bit,your not getting the full down stroke.
    I had posted the video in the day time, when I went on my long ride last night. Something
    was not feeling right, so raised the seat, wondering if the suspension seat post is loosing
    some tension, because at one time it was perfect.. But thanks, you were right...

  9. #9
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erdem View Post
    i also want to ask a question about bike fit. according to competitive cyclist

    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

    and different sizing systems my ideal effective top tube length should be like this:




    but i recognised that my fx's effective top tube length is 56 cm and i don't know its angle but stem (it is the stock one) length is 10 cm.

    my arm length is 63 cm (forearm 33cm). and if i sum these values toptube and stem length it is 66cm and 3cm bigger than my overall arm length. and when riding i recognise that my arms are too straight. but in the friend's video his arms were quite bend when holding the handlebar.

    what do you suggest? should i replace stem with a short one. i read something about stem angle in this forum but dunno what it does. so what should be stem angle? any suggestions would be appreciated..

    and after examining trek fx series geometry i recognised that their effective tube length is between 54 and 60 cm's. is this means no bike in the fx series fit me because according to results effective top tube lenght should be between 51 and 53 cm for me.

    or my arms too short? until today i was thinking that they were tall enough or at least normal.

    the only bike which's geometry and effective top tube length seems more suitable to me is that. and it is my new favourite

    http://salsacycles.com/bikes/casseroll_single

    i ask these because long ridings makes my shoulders sore.
    My shoulders seem to hurt after long rides with lots of step hills......Richard

  10. #10
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    Here's a link to an article on mountain bike fitting. It worked great for both my mountain bike and my hybrid.

    http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb...ke-like-a-pro/

    I tend to go for a higher seat position and a lower handle bar position than you do. Too upright of a ride just makes by butt too sore. I prefer to let my legs and arms absorb a good share of the weight.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Loose Chain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzbait View Post
    Here's a link to an article on mountain bike fitting. It worked great for both my mountain bike and my hybrid.

    http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb...ke-like-a-pro/

    I tend to go for a higher seat position and a lower handle bar position than you do. Too upright of a ride just makes by butt too sore. I prefer to let my legs and arms absorb a good share of the weight.
    From your link:

    "You can also use this formula as a decent starting point: Take your inseam measurement and multiply by .883. The result is the ballpark measurement from the top of the lower pedal to the top of the saddle. From here you may need to go up or down a quarter of an inch until it looks and feels right."

    Your saddle height for an individual rarely varies more than a few mm regardless of the bike be it road, cross or mtb. You should not raise or lower your seat to effect your back position or tuck as you move from bike to bike, you should vary the frame size, stem length and headset height. Your inseam is not a variable, it is a constant.

    One thing, the quote above has an error, it is from BB center to saddle top, not top of (lower) pedal to top of saddle.
    Steel is Real

    I was once told that only _ussies needed lower than 42/21 gearing.

    Steel Bike Club Member 212

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loose Chain View Post
    I believe that article with the French fit and Eddy fit and all of that is assuming a drop bar bike.

    It seems that some if not most hybrid bikes I have measured seem a little longer on the top tube than equivalent sized road bikes with drop bars. This is because you have no drop (duh) or hood positions (to reach forward/down/out to) and then hybrids are designed for a more upright position to begin with and therefore the top tube length and geometry are designed with that in mind.
    i see. then this results are only for road bikes. or touring bikes etc which has drop handlebars. so when choosing the correct size hybrid there is no need to consider effective top tube length.

    but when i put my arms on the handlebar they seem too stretched. i observed their position while riding. shouldn't my elbow be quite bent? and i assume that my shoulder pain is related to my arms position on the handlebar. if so what should i do? should i consider buying a shorter stem? and i heard about stem angle in the forums. but dunno anything about it. what should be the stem angle for new stem?

    thanks ..

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoxoxoxoLive View Post
    My shoulders seem to hurt after long rides with lots of step hills......Richard
    raising saddle's nose a little up and bringing the saddle a few milimetre forward (also as i mentioned changing the stock them with a shorter one) may help. JMO.

    i haven't tried yet coz don't have basic repairing tools yet

  14. #14
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erdem View Post
    raising saddle's nose a little up and bringing the saddle a few milimetre forward (also as i mentioned changing the stock them with a shorter one) may help. JMO.

    i haven't tried yet coz don't have basic repairing tools yet
    actually my seat needs to go back a little( no more adjustment though ), or move the bars forward, I think the shoulder pain comes from pulling on the handle bars in an effort to make those long hill climbs...working muscles not normally needed on a bike ride....: ) Richard PS , I really like the up right riding position, thats why I do not want to move the bars forward...butts
    just fine..Except after riding in the rain for 2 days..LOL..

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoxoxoxoLive View Post
    actually my seat needs to go back a little( no more adjustment though ), or move the bars forward, I think the shoulder pain comes from pulling on the handle bars in an effort to make those long hill climbs...working muscles not normally needed on a bike ride....: )
    i moved my seat a little backward. my seat is in a forward tilt position. i will make it parallel to the ground again. maybe it may reduce overload on hand and palm of the hand. [i suggested the opposite because the downward slope of the saddle caused a lot of pressure on my hands and handlebar]

    and as i see from your video. your handle bar position seemed good to me with just a slight bend in your elbows as you grip the handlebar.
    Last edited by erdem; 07-07-10 at 06:27 AM. Reason: made minor changes

  16. #16
    Senior Member Loose Chain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erdem View Post
    i see. then this results are only for road bikes. or touring bikes etc which has drop handlebars. so when choosing the correct size hybrid there is no need to consider effective top tube length.

    but when i put my arms on the handlebar they seem too stretched. i observed their position while riding. shouldn't my elbow be quite bent? and i assume that my shoulder pain is related to my arms position on the handlebar. if so what should i do? should i consider buying a shorter stem? and i heard about stem angle in the forums. but dunno anything about it. what should be the stem angle for new stem?

    thanks ..
    That is not what I said at all. I am saying those fit styles are not particularly relevant to bikes other than road bikes with drop bars, IMO.

    You could try leaning forward, that should unlock your elbows.

    Sounds like your bike is too long on the tt to me for the upright riding style you desire.
    Steel is Real

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