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  1. #1
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    How do I identify the weakest link? Which component is first to go?

    I just bought a 2010 Cannondale Quick 3 today (specs: http://www.twospoke.com/forum/f124/c...3-2010-a-3185/). It's my first *New* bike and I don't know much about all the fancy components. While I *should* just love the bike as it is and get to know it on the road, I'm a tinkerer...I'm already thinking that I should have some bar ends for the hills, and I'm wondering how good these gears are...they hiccuped on me a couple times today, but I can't rule out that it was my fault. Still, I'd like to know which components are the best targets for the upgrade bug. I dunno these brands, or in the case of Shimano (everyone knows them) I don't know how these particular components place in their lineup. How can I tell? Is there a weak link here that I should be thinking about if I can't resist upgrading something?

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Personally, I think you really should try to get at least a couple hundred miles on it before tinkering, it at least helps identify what may be best from you to change.

  3. #3
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    In all liklihood I will wait for some time yet. I just have this awesome shiny new toy in front of me and I don't know how to learn about the pieces. I just learned from the SRAM site that my rear derailers are actually designed for mountain bikes, but I don't know how that influences the behavior of my bike. Also, all manufacturers say that their products are stellar, so obviously the SRAM site isn't where I'll find out how they measure up to common alternatives. I'm just curious, this is part of my process, to learn about the pieces.

  4. #4
    Galveston County Texas 10 Wheels's Avatar
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    At 270 lbs, your spokes are the weakest link.
    Get your wheels spoke tension checked at 200 miles.
    [SIZE=1][B]What I like about Texas[/B]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGukLuXzH1E

    Set F1re To The Ra1n ( NY Night Rain Ride)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfcWEkSrI

  5. #5
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    that's good info. thanks!

  6. #6
    Senior Member Fiery's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeydentity View Post
    I just learned from the SRAM site that my rear derailers are actually designed for mountain bikes, but I don't know how that influences the behavior of my bike.
    Not really, it just influences the range of gears/sprocket sizes you can use - the longer the cage, the bigger the range. It's also probably a bit heavier than the equivalent road derailleur, but that's a very small difference.

  7. #7
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    The first things I usually swap out are for comfort. If I don't like the saddle, I put on a different one, I've swapped out my pedals. Some like butting bar ends on.

    Some hybrids have more mountain bike components, especially in the gearing, some lean more toward a flat bat road bike.

  8. #8
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    im looking at some lock grips for mine, the ones that came stock have been moving all over the place on me

  9. #9
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    Usually (not always) the 'first to go' in terms of the performance, for me, is the tires.

    In terms of scheduled maintenance replacements, your cables & break pads are obviously the weak links.

    I've always ended up needing to replace my original pedals as they tend to wear out (pedals with plastic parts on new sub-30 pound bikes makes no sense to me, the metal pedals on my first tiny banana seat-bike are probably still riding strong somewhere).

    In terms of just needing periodic TLC, lubrication and derailuer adjustment seem to be the first to 'go'.

  10. #10
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sincityrider View Post
    im looking at some lock grips for mine, the ones that came stock have been moving all over the place on me
    Mine have been moving around too...but they're ergons, I shouldn't have to keep forcing the back into the correct position while on my ride right?

    In terms of scheduled maintenance replacements, your cables & break pads are obviously the weak links.

    I've always ended up needing to replace my original pedals as they tend to wear out
    I've heard the brake on this bike aren't amazing, and mine made quite a lot of noise the first few times down a hill but that's probably just being broken in. For a big guy like me, gaining speed on a downhill happens very quickly, maybe better brakes should be my first thing to think about. I saw the new ergon pedals too though, and their point about guiding the rider to have better position really speaks to me because I feel like a bit of a clutz on this fine piece of engineering.
    Last edited by monkeydentity; 07-11-11 at 08:50 AM.

  11. #11
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    Sorry, I meant the break pads not the break mechanism.

    'big guys' buy alot of bikes and I don't think anyone ever had to swap out the breaks because of their weight.

    practice stopping suddenly so you know how long it will take anyway because eventually you might have to.

  12. #12
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    good idea, thanks!

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    [QUOTE=monkeydentity;12910792]Mine have been moving around too...but they're ergons, I shouldn't have to keep forcing the back into the correct position while on my ride right?

    havent tried ergons yet, but im guessing if they dont lock, they'll prob move on you

  14. #14
    Senior Member AdelaaR's Avatar
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    Upgrading before mastering sounds like a bad idea.
    First and foremost: RIDE (a lot).
    On top of that: start maintaining and adjusting your own bike ... this is the only way to thoroughly learn the mechanics of it.
    Then ... after you have mastered everything ... start upgrading.

  15. #15
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    rode my first 10mi ride EVER today. very happy. learned a few things.

    1. this integrated seat height adjuster thing sucks, and I wish cannondale would recall it and give me something easier to operate.
    2. non-locking grips suck. every other mile or so I had to put effort into pulling them back into position.
    3. I want bar ends. another hand position would be really nice to give my hands a break, and i would love to have them for the hills.
    4. the shifting goofs were all my own, and i now know how to shift correctly....most of the time.

    My LBS has ordered a replacement for the height adjuster to replace the one they bent, and I ordered some locking Ergon grips with end bars. Things are looking up! I really like the look of those Ergon pedals though....too bad my bike budget is blown for the YEAR.

  16. #16
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    For me, the first thing to go on my Quick 3 was the saddle. I got fitted for the bike so I'd be in a less upright position, and the stock saddle wasn't fitting my bones right. Two more saddles later and I'm good.

    I considered bar ends after the first ride because my hands were going numb, but a good pair of cycling gloves solved that. And working on a stronger core so I wouldn't be putting all my weight on my hands. But bar ends certainly wouldn't hurt to have. My grips haven't really moved much at all.

  17. #17
    Senior Member John_V's Avatar
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    When I first started cycling again two years ago, the first thing that went was me. I almost gave up but decided that I wasn't going to be beaten by some hunk of steel. On the bike itself, the first thing that went were the pedals on both bikes and the saddle and grips on the hybrid. Went to clipless pedals on both bikes and Ergon grips and a road saddle on the hybrid.
    HCFR Cycling Team
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  18. #18
    car-less monkeydentity's Avatar
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    that's interesting, the first things to be thinking about are the contact points between the rider and the bike. my saddle feels ok for the moment, i had hand pain the first day but shifted the saddle forward a bit and it's about 50% better now. These grips are really frustrating, wonder why mine move and yours didn't...maybe 'cuz i'm a heavy dude. I ordered the wrong ones ("small") so now I might be waiting a while until I can find them around NY. I like the idea of better pedals to keep my knees from pushing at the wrong angle (and thus incurring unnecessary strain), but I'm not ready to clip in...I like the look and what the ergon website says about their pedals, but not sure I'm ready to drop another $75 today.

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