qmsdc15

THe Marin is 21 speed, not 7.

The Marin is a much better bike.

The Marin was made in this century, the Miyata is older than you.

If you had a gel saddle like that, you would hope it gets stolen.

Both bikes have quick release seatpost bolts and quick release wheel skewers. You can buy a bolt on seatpost collar and bolt on wheel skewers or secure saddle and wheels with cables when you lock up.

Grab the Marin before someone else does.

Make sure the frame isn't broken or bent.

A wheel has been replaced, so the bike might have been in a collision.

irclean

Ditto what qmsdc15 said. Make sure the bike tracks straight when riding, and look a the two wheels head-on to make sure they line up vertically. Again, if you know squat about bikes, make sure to take a bike-savvy friend with you when shopping.

jsdavis

Glad you caught the replaced wheel. Looking at the Marin Bike archives, it looks like the bike is a 2005 Marin San Anselmo and should have an 8 speed cassette. Something happened to the rear wheel.

Marin page for 2005 Marin San Anselmo: https://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2...n_anselmo.html

Marin names all their bikes after places in Marin so the description on the CL ad is a bit off. Fairfield is a municipality about 30 miles east of Marin.

repus.jonathan

Thanks for the replies guys.

So I shot the Marin owner an email.
And it turns out to be the Marin Fairfield model which I can't find any information on online (the seller claims it is a Marin Fairfield)

So what I'm hearing is:

1) Make sure when I am casually riding the bike that the wheels are aligned

2) Make sure the frame isn't broken or bent (Is this easy to spot or are there some places I should look specifically to check?)

NOTE: I probably won't be able to drag a bike savy friend alll the way to Berkeley to test it so I will most likely be on my own inspecting this bike.

Anything else?

Thanks so much guys!

jsdavis

Maybe he means Fairfax, not Fairfield? But Fairfax is a flat handle road bike not a hybrid with suspension fork.

Are you not at Berkeley yet?

repus.jonathan

I am not at Berkeley yet but I do commute there for work everyday (berkeley is a big city) so I want to make sure I know what I am looking for / checking on the bike before I go there.

I found a couple of hits for "Marin Fairfield" but there were again , only a couple and could have been mistaken search results. I'm confused as to why I can't dig up anything for this bike.

jsdavis

I'm starting to wonder if this bike is stolen. The mismatched wheels and the Schwinn tire makes me suspicious that one bike was locked by the rear wheel and the other did not lock the rear wheel and someone made a complete bike out of the two.

The other thing is that the seller keeps insisting it's called Fairfield which doesn't sound like an appropriate name for a Marin bike since Fairfield is in Solano County. There is a similar sounding city of Fairfax in Marin County, but that is a flat handle road bike with carbon fork.

Compare the link to Marin I previously posted and compare it to the photos on CL. The bikes look identical down to the sticker on the fork and red mark on the top tube.

Marin San Anselmo originally came with an 8 speed cassette. It doesn't really make sense to install a 7 speed cassette on a replacement wheel if the rear wheel were damaged beyond repair or stolen. While I don't know prices of 7 and 8 speed cassettes, I'd imagine installing a 7 speed shifter to to match the cassette would negate any time and monetary savings. If the shifter was not changed out, then the shifting will be horrible and the seller might try to say it just needs a tune up. I think Deore came out around 2000 as a 9 speed group and replaced 8 sp STX-RC. I wonder if it could even handle bigger 7 speed chain.

Interesting now that the CL page, the seller has changed the name from Fairfield to Kentfield which is an actual Marin bike model, but Kentfied doesn't come with Deore components and is only available with a rigid fork until Marin started using the curvy/stylized top tubes in 2008.

repus.jonathan

Actually,

Ive confirmed with the seller that it's a Marin Kentfield FS and if I'm not mistaken, it is this bike:
https://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...d+FS&Type=bike

The seller claims it is three years old, 700x32 tires in new condition and had a tune up 2 weeks ago.

So that bikepedia page shows it as a 7 speed. Not a 21 speed.

I need to decide on this one soon, any quick replies and advice on this bike would be appreciated!

UPDATE with a reply from the seller:

So basically, I figure that I need to meet up with the seller soon because he wants to meet up asap (his exact words in the email are below):

Marin kentfield FS, 700x32 tires in new condition, I'm the second owner, 3 yrs old, had a tuned up 2 weeks ago. I'm trying to schedule other people to come see it so if you can confirm with me that would be great.

[B]


Essentially, I'm at a loss for what to do right now. I don't know much about bikes so I'm not sure about checking the components or anything and basically would LOVE any thoguhts on this bike (or perhaps another bike?).
(should I: A. pressure him for more details or B. just show up, check up bike following some guidelines you guys can hopefully give me and buy it if it passes the things you guys told me to look out for?)

jsdavis

The frame looks completely different than Kentfield. Get some better photos of the bike. The name of the bike is located on the top tube somewhere.

Kentfield does not have Deore components.

irclean

I think jsdavis is right; it looks like a 2005 Marin San Anselmo to me, too. That "Schwinn" rear tire is probably a re-badged Kenda, and can be found on many dept. store Schwinns. The whole rear wheel likely came off of another bike, hence the 7-speed cassette. The whole thing seems a little suspect to me, so caveat emptor (i.e., it looks like a real "steal").

qmsdc15

It's a Fairfax, er, I mean Kentfield, er, I mean...

It's neither.

Is there a reason to tell you model names other than what's printed on the top tube?

Call the sheriff's office and run the serial number by them.

repus.jonathan

Oh geez....
Well, if it really is the Marin kentfield FS then the bike SHOULD have a 7 speed cassete according to Marin's site:

https://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_...serialnum=1581

I plan to see it tomorrow and is the concensus that if I can ride the bike up and down the street, pull the brake levelrs 1/2 to 3/4 of the way and stop the bike, the bike should be fine (obviously no super load noises of gears clanking or something obnoxiously wrong with it). Or are there finer things I have to check up on?

Because it seems it is a really good deal for the price if there isn't something horribly wrong with this bike...right?

qmsdc15

It is not a Kentfield. The seller is lying to you. I believe the bike is stolen.

repus.jonathan

How do you know its not a kentfield?

And even so...I don't know how to find the number of my local sherrif (I didn't even know they had local BIKE sherrifs! or unless of course you are referring to the police department?).

Regardless if it was stolen or not (hopefully not), and assuming my serial check (where's the bike serial?) turns out negative, would it be a good buy if I don't notice anything horribly wrong with this bike?

From my previous post:
"
I plan to see it tomorrow or the day after and is the concensus that if I can ride the bike up and down the street, pull the brake levelrs 1/2 to 3/4 of the way and stop the bike, the bike should be fine (obviously no super load noises of gears clanking or something obnoxiously wrong with it). Or are there finer things I have to check up on?
"

jsdavis

It's not a Kentfield because Kentfield FS doesn't have straight tubes. Kentfield FS first appeared in 2008 when Marin started using the stylized/curved top tubes. Only on 2007 and earlier were the tubes straight as shown in the photo and there were not Kentfield FS models then. Not between 2005 to 2007 anyways.

Taking a closer look at it, judging by the length of the head tube and seat tube, I'm also starting to doubt the bike is a 19". Looking at my 19" hybrid, the rear end of the top tube is about even with the top of my wheel. The top and down tubes on my bike are also much closer together at the heat tube.

Check out the photo of this bike with 22" frame: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2535510387.html
The top tube on the 19" Kentfield looks to be about the same height and the head tube looks like similar length. On a 19" frame, the top and down tubes should be closer together I think.

repus.jonathan

Hmm.. Seem's a bit too fishy ...

What about this one?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2535581995.html

Or would you guys vote for another craigslist hybrid bike to go for? (sub 220 dollars preferably)

jsdavis

Either of those look fine.

Personally I'd go with the Specialized for 700c wheels and more aggressive riding position. It looks like 17" which should be about right, or maybe a bit small.

The Fuji looks like 26" wheel upright comfort bike which isn't my thing. It might feel good at first, but ride it often enough and long enough and you might find it limiting and uncomfortable.

repus.jonathan

I was looking at the Specilized also. This is what the seller told me:
"... bike approximately 17 or 18 inch."

So a 19 inch frame would suit me best? (I'm 5 foot 7 , inseam of about 29.5 inches)
And yeah, i heard upright is most comfortable but I DEFINITELY did not want a road bike position. So you're saying these hybrids (like the speciliazed ) offer a 45 degree ish semi-aggressive riding position?

So...is this the best one to look at now or would any the other linked bikes be a better candidate (or non linked so far, but out there on Craigs to find)?

Thanks!

irclean

A general rule of thumb to determine if a frame is the right size for you is to straddle the top tube, lift the bike up tight against your groin, and look for a space of about two inches under the wheels. Having the right sized frame means you won't geld yourself when you come to a stop. When you're in the saddle, your leg should extend almost fully on the downstroke, and you should have to come off of the saddle when stopped. That way you get full power and the most efficient use of your pedal strokes.

jsdavis

At 5'7", you are kind of on the fence for 17 to 19. You'll have to ride the bike to see how it feels. I tested a 17 and 19 when I bought my bike. I rode a 21 also, but it took all of 500 ft to know that wasn't for me. The difference between 17 and 19 is subtle; in the end I picked the 19 since that was the one that made me feel warm and fuzzy.

Upright position I think is more comfortable initially, but in the long run I think a forward position is a bit more comfortable especially if you are riding a few miles at a time. Hill climbs are easier too I think. Although my primary goal is to get from one place to another without getting hurt, I ride hard and fast, so your requirements may be different.

The riding position will probably be close to this:

https://www.marinbikes.com/2010/image...EET-Hybrid.jpg

repus.jonathan

Thanks guys.

So at this point, because we have dropped the Marin FS hybrid, do you guys have any other bikes you recommend?

I probably will only have time to decide on ONE offer from a craigslist posting and evaluate that one before college starts.

As mentioned earlier, I try searching on craiglist but I cannot find the good deals you guys see because:
- I don't know what are "good deals/good bikes"
- I only know to search up with words like "hybrid" or "trek hybrid"

So if you guys can find some killer offers like before and recommend one out in the next 2 days, that would be GREAT! And i'll go check out that bike and , assuming it is good, will buy it and be a happy college student.

Here are a few that looked to me that I found so far:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2535581995.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2536684411.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2540719133.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2534795053.html


Thank you so much guys! I bet you guys can find something much better than my noob searches.

Thanks again!

tromper

Heck Jon, Guess this has been kicking around a bit (long 'nuff for me to show my ugly head)
Fit
17 vs. 19, yeah you're probably good for either to some extent depending on personal geometry. I'm always inclined to the larger end but I'm old beat-up & less flexible. Make sure you clear the top bar by 2cm+ inch for road, 5 cm for MTB is the old rule that seems to kinda work (no flames please if ya got another opinion just state it)
Other stuff can be tweaked to a point. If your wrists hurt & you have a lot clearance consider the bigger bike or at least raise your bars.

Money:
If you can't do your own work, then you may want to try out some LBS bikes & spend the money up front to get something you'll want to ride, or save an extra 150 bucks over the purchase price to account for things like
- Tires - older bikes often have inappropriate (nobby) or shot tires (cracking on the side etc))
- Tuneup
- The one component that will be broken that you must replace (brakes etc) that you miss on the inspection

Bikes
- There are a couple of Xmart bikes that would probably do, but overall I think they're a bad idea, too many bad stories, & have seen too many of them personally.
- If you're buying a late 80's or 90's vintage bike AVOID Suntour's indexed stuff (shifters, back wheel/cassettes). It was great in it's day, but is now made of unobtanium..(my 750 started with Suntour)
- I don't know Berkeley, but do live in Hilly Seattle..for the most part the diff between 18 & 27 speeds is pretty much nil for 90%+ of riding. In the worst case you can always walk it up the hill. I realistically use 5 or so of my 24 gears & rarely get to the lower cog unless I'm really shot.

I've mostly messed with Trek stuff, but bear in mind other good mfr's like Diamondback, Specialized, Novara (REI company brand), Panasonic, Nishiki Jamis etc also made/make perfectly nice bikes in the same categories.

I favor steel bikes, but Aluminum's OK, lots of folks like it, I just haven't found an AL bike I really liked. It's a preference & I ain't gonna get in a flame war here, make up your own mind after riding for a while.

Suspension vs. non. (My opinion)
Unless you're going offroad suspension will only cost you more, & maybe make the bike more appealing to thieves.

MTB vs, Hybrid (In general)
MTB's
Smaller, stronger wheels/harsher ride. - Smaller wheels may make a frame fit you better at 5'7"
Faster steering/ a bit more maneuverable due to wheel size, & trail (Yes I know any bike can have short trail, I owned a Kog..)
A bit twitchier (the downside of faster steering)
Hybrid
Bigger wheels, often a bit higher bars (more comfortable) slower steering (more stable on road, but not as maneuverable)

Either one will work ride both & if you change your mind, change your ride.

Models you can find fairly cheap I've messed with include

Hybrids (somewhat limited, but heck I hit the home-run the first one I bought)
Trek 750 (the 730, 720 & 700 are similar enough to be indistinguishable for this purpose, a hair heavier with lesser components)
Trek 7200 (with front shock similar to the 7300, 7500 etc)

MTB's -

Trek 830 (sibling of the "Antelope", 830 , 850 etc)
Specialized Rock Hopper(short experience, someone backed into it & broke the frame)
Trek 930 (cousins include 920 etc)

I own a 90 750 & have had it for years while other bikes came & went. Don't get one if it still has Suntour. Cost to upgrade is high.
The 930 was a nice bike owned by a friend of mine, wouldn't mind nabbing one someday. Not as smooth as my 750 but a bit more suited for some of the trails I contemplate.
The 7200 is probably not the one, shock is not HD 'nuff to hop curbs & adds weight as well as being pricey to fix if necessary. It did smooth the road nicely when I had a badly messed up shoulder.
The 8xx stuff, not a bad choice, I recently steered a friend to an 830..of note the crank had a recall on it so he got a free replacement (not a great replacement but heck it was free & new). He dropped about 150 bucks into a tuneup, lock etc..
The Rock Hopper (old steel one) was much like the 8xx in my short time with it.

jsdavis

If you can find a Trek 930, those would be better than an 830 or 850. The higher spec components will probably last longer. IIRC, the 930 came with STX or STX-RC parts.

For Trek hybrids and MTBs, 3 digit model number is usually steel and higher number is higher model. A 4 digit number means aluminum.

jsdavis

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2542393209.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2541641909.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2544979211.html

repus.jonathan

Thanks guys.

@tromper. Yeah, and it's hard because there so many listings and I'm not sure which one is the best of the options with my limited knowledge. I scour bikepedia and google for reviews but , especially with the older bikes like the one's jsdavis linked just now, it's hard to find reviews and thus compare them.


I haven't been able to find good trek bikes on craiglist but did take a look at the links jsdavis provided.

Which would you recommend?

Also, they all seem to be mountain bikes instead of hybrids? or are these bikes essentailly good commuter bikes for college students?

Also, for the bridgestone MB 4, I found an MB 2:
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/2544377287.html

for cheaper. Would that be better or is the fact that the MB4 is tuned make it a great deal?

Thanks!