Trek 7.3 and CLIX dropouts?
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Trek 7.3 and CLIX dropouts?
I've just read that the 7.3 FX has CLIX dropouts. I went over my bike and for the life of me could not figure it out. Can other 7.3FX owners confirm that it works? How do I make it happen?
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Try this: https://www.clixqr.com/
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I have to say that is pretty cool. Do all the FX's 7.3 and up have that feature?
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My 2012 7.3 FX does not have a CLIX quick release skewer, it has a normal quick releas skewer. The Trek web site says the 7.3 fork has CLIX dropouts (Fork - FX Alloy w/tapered wall thickness, straight blades, CLIX dropouts), and that may be because I don't know what the difference is between a normal quick release dropout and a CLIX dropout. But I do know the skewer is a normal quick release skewer and not a CLIX skewer.
Jim
Jim
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The Trek website indicates that the 2012 FX7.3 fork has "CLIX dropouts"; it does not say that it has a CLIX quick release.
My 2009 FX7.5 has the CLIX quick release, but my wife's 2009 FX7.3 does not. There is no apparent difference between the dropouts and the CLIX QR works fine on both bikes. The best I can tell, all recent FX front dropouts (and probably all recent "lawyer lip" front dropouts) are CLIX compatible.
My 2009 FX7.5 has the CLIX quick release, but my wife's 2009 FX7.3 does not. There is no apparent difference between the dropouts and the CLIX QR works fine on both bikes. The best I can tell, all recent FX front dropouts (and probably all recent "lawyer lip" front dropouts) are CLIX compatible.
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What's the 'frequent misuse of traditional skwers' (as stated on the clix website) that inspired this design? Are you less likely to leave the skewers too loose with this system?
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fairymuff,
When used with "lawyer lips" dropouts, the adjusting nut on a standard QR skewer must be loosened in order to remove the wheel. When re-installing the wheel, the adjusting nut must be partially tightened before closing the QR lever in order to achieve the correct clamping force. If you are in a hurry, .....
EdgewaterDude,
Yes, you can replace the standard skewer with a CLIX skewer. I don't see any reason to do so on a recreational bike, but that's just my opinion. YMMV.
When used with "lawyer lips" dropouts, the adjusting nut on a standard QR skewer must be loosened in order to remove the wheel. When re-installing the wheel, the adjusting nut must be partially tightened before closing the QR lever in order to achieve the correct clamping force. If you are in a hurry, .....
EdgewaterDude,
Yes, you can replace the standard skewer with a CLIX skewer. I don't see any reason to do so on a recreational bike, but that's just my opinion. YMMV.
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fairymuff,
When used with "lawyer lips" dropouts, the adjusting nut on a standard QR skewer must be loosened in order to remove the wheel. When re-installing the wheel, the adjusting nut must be partially tightened before closing the QR lever in order to achieve the correct clamping force. If you are in a hurry, .....
When used with "lawyer lips" dropouts, the adjusting nut on a standard QR skewer must be loosened in order to remove the wheel. When re-installing the wheel, the adjusting nut must be partially tightened before closing the QR lever in order to achieve the correct clamping force. If you are in a hurry, .....
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The only time I remove my tires is to change a flat. And since that takes 15-20 minutes, I don't think that the clix is going be saving me a lot of time. Unless you race (HAHA!) or are the policeman from Young Frankenstein, basing a purchase decision on this feature seems foolhardy.
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My method of locking up my bike is removing the front wheel and placing it next to the rear and then using a u-lock. I guess it would be a little easier than unthreading the skewer, grabbing the washer/spring and taking those pieces with me.
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The main idea is to idiot-proof the skewer by locking down the adjustment with the recessed 8mm nut. It has more drawbacks than benefits, IMO. Thankfully Trek is moving away from the use of Clix skewers now.
If you like the idea of not having to find the "sweet spot" on the QR nut all the time, but want to be able to adjust it when necessary (say, you want to use the wheel on a different bike today), just leave out the 8mm noOb nut, and now you have a long-travel QR with full adjustability.
If you like the idea of not having to find the "sweet spot" on the QR nut all the time, but want to be able to adjust it when necessary (say, you want to use the wheel on a different bike today), just leave out the 8mm noOb nut, and now you have a long-travel QR with full adjustability.
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