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  1. #1
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    Looking for a great hybrid

    I have been looking at two cannandale hybrid bikes but I'm confused on the difference on the components.
    Cannondale cx 1 and the cannondale SL 1. Can someone explain. or any other bicycle brand you suggest. Don't want to spent more then $1600.00
    I ride on sidewalks roads and some trails about two or three times a week.
    Last edited by Neurojack; 01-13-12 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Misspelling

  2. #2
    copasetic clbw's Avatar
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    The Cannondale CX1 is a road bike (hybrid) and the SL 1 id a hard tail mountain bike. The difference between the two is mainly the tire size and CX 1 has a carbon Fork go to the cannondale site and you can compare the two decide on the type of ridding you do.
    2011 Cannondale Quick Cx2
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  3. #3
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    I've never rode a Quick but i will say that they are very nice looking bikes. You should also take a look at the Specialized Sirrus and Trek FX and DS series bikes.
    1997 Trek ZX 6000, 2011 Trek Utopia, 2013 Raleigh Furley, 2013 Trek 7.1 FX,
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  4. #4
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Someone will be along shortly to plug Jamis Coda...

  5. #5
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    Hi NeuroJack!

    Of the Cannondale brand, I would prefer the Quick SL 1.

    I would also suggest the Raleigh Cadent FT3 and the Jamis Coda Elite.

    * Generally, the thinner the tire, the more paved-road oriented the bike is expected to be.

    Thinner and smoother tires means faster travel on smoother roads.

    Wider tires with greater tread, usually means more resistance between the surface of the tire and rougher dirt roads. Therefore, expect travel not to be as fast as, thinner and smoother tires.

    Flat handlebars indicate hybrids and comfort bikes. They tend to be more commuter-friendly, in that the cyclists has more of an upright sitting posture in which traffic becomes more readily visible.

    - Slim

    PS.

    Road Bike Derailleurs of your components have a pecking order:

    (barely acceptable) Sora --> Tiagra ---> 105 ----> Ultegra ----> Dura Ace ( the best)


    Kudos to No1Mad who predicted my entrance!
    Last edited by SlimRider; 01-18-12 at 12:49 AM.

  6. #6
    copasetic clbw's Avatar
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    the SL1 fork has a lock out but the tires are mountain bike sized 38 something and knobby, so if your off road a lot then that's ok. The Quick CX 2 that I have is an awesome bike it has a lock out fork but I am unusual in that I like the suspension of the front . Which is probably because I road a mountain bike for several years as a road bike before I grasped the concept of a hybrid. I can say though you get a great workout riding a MB on pavement.
    2011 Cannondale Quick Cx2
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  7. #7
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    First question: When you say you ride on 'trails' a couple times per week, what type of trails are you talking about? Dirt with roots and rocks or paved multi-use-paths (MUPs) or smooth gravel rail-trails and fire roads?

    I assume you are talking about the Quick SL1 and Quick CX1... Both are hybrids and both look like awesome bikes.

    The components on both are pretty much similar quality. A few differences are the shimano disc hubs on the CX and, of course, the suspension fork. I would expect the CX will be more at home on rougher trails, and can possibly be outfitted with even wider tires for even more off road capability.

    The SL is close to what is sometimes called a 'flat bar road bike' meaning it is primarily for use on paved surfaces and will not feel as at-home on dirt. Rough trails (roots and rocks) will likely be tricky unless you are very very careful about picking your line. Put some 700X32c tires on it, however, and it will be a lightning fast on smooth dirt or gravel trails. It all depends on what you call 'trails.' I would guess (but I don't know for sure) that the SL won't fit tires as fat as will fit on the CX.

    In short, both are great bikes. However, the most important part of a bike is how it fits you - will you be comfortable on it for the length of rides you plan to do. You can find the answer to this question by test riding them or alternatively, measuring your current bike (assuming it fits you the way you want) and comparing it to the published geometry specs of the cannondales.

    Also, the riding position on the SL seems to be a little more stretched out while the CX is a bit more upright - predictable as off road bikes are generally a little more upright than road bikes. Also the geometry on the CX is a little more relaxed, likely giving a slightly more stable ride with your weight a little further back compared to the quick and more aggressive layout of the SL (Still short of a full on road bike, however).

    As for other bikes, if the one or the other Cannondales fit your body and intended purpose then they are great choices, but certainly see if the LBSs in your area have something similar. You don't need to worry that you will be getting an 'inferior' bike as most (all) of these bikes are made by a handful of contract manufacturers in China and (for higher end stuff) Taiwan. The Specializeds and Treks and Jamises and Giants and Konas and etc etc etc all make pretty good bikes in this price range.
    Last edited by LarDasse74; 01-21-12 at 10:34 PM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks everyone for the replies. I think the quick cx 1 Will be my choice. But yesterday I was looking at a specialized s-works tricross bike with a flat bar instead of a road bike handlebar. The frame is a 2006 or 2007 but was only used on smooth roads. One more thing that concerns me is that I'm 5'10 and the frame is 54cms. I don't know if that frame works with me??

  9. #9
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    If your 5'10 I would assume you would need a 56 or 58. I'm 6'2 and I'm somewhere between 60 and 62 usually.
    1997 Trek ZX 6000, 2011 Trek Utopia, 2013 Raleigh Furley, 2013 Trek 7.1 FX,
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neurojack View Post
    One more thing that concerns me is that I'm 5'10 and the frame is 54cms. I don't know if that frame works with me??
    A 56 would probably give you more adjustability as far as bar height relative to the seat. The 54 will probably force you to ride with a fair amount of handlebar drop (bars lower than the seat) even with the all of the spacers under the bars. It really depends on your cycling inseam though.

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