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Old 04-20-12, 11:06 AM   #51
NormDeplume
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I know some may call this blasphemy, but I'm actually considering just getting some Bell brand 1.3" road tires and tubes I saw at Wal-Mart. I can get those for about $55 with tax, or under $50 if I go with standard tubes. Of course they only sell Schrader valve tubes so I would have to drill my rims. I'd also still have to get the rim tape, probably from the LBS.
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I bought Forte brand road tires from Performance Bike and cheapo Bell tubes from Wally World. They worked fine for both Mr Deplume and me until we got the chance to upgrade to better bikes. I'm all about the cheap.
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Old 04-21-12, 05:47 PM   #52
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Got a new tube today to use with my current knobby front tire, at least just to make it ride-able. Still going to get new tires/tubes very soon and fork after that.

Here's a current pic of how it sits, you can see better in this pic the saddle height as compared to the handle bar height.


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Old 04-30-12, 11:17 PM   #53
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Well it appears the 26x1.3 tires at WalMart won't work. They're for 590 rims and I have 559 rims. Oh well, will have to go with LBS if I want it ready for a group ride this Sunday.
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Old 05-01-12, 07:12 AM   #54
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Some new bits for the bike: Zefal front/rear light set, wireless computer, gloves, tire levers, and bar ends (defective, have to return).



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Old 05-07-12, 09:35 AM   #55
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Tires and new bar ends:





Anyone have a trick for making this under-saddle bag stay in place? The way the velcro is situated on the strap makes it seem like it has to go over the saddle frame bars and then wrap underneath and around the whole bag. But then invariably the bag slips out of the strap and is left there dangling.

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Old 06-05-12, 10:56 PM   #56
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Finally slapped on a kick stand, finally no more leaning against stuff or laying it down on the ground. Also got a groovy bell

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Old 06-06-12, 10:52 AM   #57
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Looks great man, sweet looking ride. I wouldn't buy another bike, enjoy the one you got. I was going to say, check amazon they have cheap tires sometimes on there. I bought a set of road tires for my gf's Giant Mtn. Bike for 35$ shipped. They are thin tires but we only ride nicely paved trails and roads and we live in a compact city so worse case scenario get a flat its a walk to the house for the car. Good luck and keep us posted with pictures. I love looking at others bikes no matter the price tag.
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Old 06-06-12, 01:43 PM   #58
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Finally picked up a kickstand last night, and a bell! Tuesday I finally pulled the trigger on a new rigid front fork, adjustable stem, handlebars, and headset spacers from Nashbar that should be here tomorrow.

The bell was only 4 bucks at Wally World (a Bell bell haha) but man the thing is LOUD, especially if you ring it indoors or in the garage.
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Old 06-06-12, 04:48 PM   #59
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Finally picked up a kickstand last night, and a bell! Tuesday I finally pulled the trigger on a new rigid front fork, adjustable stem, handlebars, and headset spacers from Nashbar that should be here tomorrow.

The bell was only 4 bucks at Wally World (a Bell bell haha) but man the thing is LOUD, especially if you ring it indoors or in the garage.

Got some goodies coming in the mail soon my self. Make sure you share what you got with some nice photos and ill do the same.
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Old 06-07-12, 03:39 PM   #60
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Just got my new handlebars, adjustable stem, and spacers in a bit ago. Unfortunately the fork is back ordered until 6/29 dangit! Oh well, will have to make do with my current poor man's suspension lockout

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Old 06-07-12, 10:14 PM   #61
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That's one way to do it!

A few summers ago, I decided I wanted to try doing just this. I started with a 2001 Schwinn Moab 3. My first change was to replace the off-road tires with some slicks (Michelin City tires). To deal with the suspension fork, I changed the oil to a higher viscosity and adjusted the rebound tension. The shock wasn't locked out by any means, but it definitely was a lot stiffer than before; the only time it would compress was on steep climbs when I was out of the saddle. Those two changes alone made a huge difference, and I rode it like that for a year.

Towards the end of 2010, I moved to a larger city and found myself wanting more [speed]. My 10 year old drive train was getting pretty worn, so I swapped out the cassette for a tighter ratio, added larger chain rings (22-32-42 to 26-36-48), and a new chain. While that was expensive--and in hindsight, probably not the best use of money--I did all of the work myself and started learning how to work on a bike. The higher gearing was definitely nicer for my city riding and I rode it like that until early this season when I bought a Giant Rapid 3 (basically a road bike with flat handle bars). I got to a point where I decided it was time for a bike that better suited my needs for road biking. My Moab has since been converted back to a mountain bike.

With all that being said, I hope you enjoy making your mountain bike a bit more road friendly--I certainly did!
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Old 06-07-12, 10:40 PM   #62
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Wow, I'm late to this page and BTW, love your KHS. I need your Chris King headset (mine's rooted and needs replacing)
About two months ago I completed my rain / snow commuter bike and it looks very simailar to yours. I had a budget of $200 and built this with a mixture of new parts and "hand-me-downs" from friends with a final cost of $162 complete.

Because my commute takes me along both packed dirt and road, I went for small knobblies and a single chain ring married to a road cluster and road rear derailleur.
My "bash guard" is used to keep the chain on the front chainring because I have no front deraileur. My bash guard is actually the original outer chain ring grinded down.

Oh it's rarely washed hence it's dirty state in the pics below.








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Old 06-08-12, 12:25 AM   #63
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Well I went ahead and swapped out the bars and stem tonight. Ran into a few issues: the extreme curvature of the bars made it quite difficult to mount my shifters and brake levers. What was left for the grips was a good 1 to 1.5" shorter than the actual grips themselves, which also meant no room for bar ends. The shifter and brake levers also had to be rotated to an awkward angle. Here's how it looked:



All in all, not really a good combination. Also, this bar and adjustable Nashbar stem combo is MUCH heavier than the fixed stem and RaceFace bar on there before. In the end I decided to go back to the RaceFace bar, but keep the Nashbar stem on there. The stem is shorter, and I also have it angled higher. Also I flipped the bar ends out and back towards me, so I can grip those if I want to sit upright. All in all this works out to be quite comfortable.

One thing I noticed about this Nashbar adjustable stem is that you REALLY have to crank down that adjusting bolt to get all rattle and play out of the stem. Hope that doesn't become an issue. Not sure what I'll do with the Nashbar handle bar, probably will just sit on the shelf. Good thing it was only 12 bucks.

I also bought a pack of spacers that I may use when I swap out the fork. I also have more pics that I'll try to get up later.





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Old 06-08-12, 01:50 PM   #64
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In 2009 we bought MTB's, then decided we SUCK at riding dirt and turned then into road hybrids, here's my old, "Frankenbrid":
2nd. photo of both our MTB turned Road Hybrids on a road trip in So. Colorado. Turned it back into a MTB to sell it to buy my 2012 Jamis Coda Sport!
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Old 06-08-12, 02:25 PM   #65
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Yeah that riser handlebar would have been nice if it had been about 100mm longer or so. The ends were just too short before it dropped down to be able to mount everything.

What sort of bars are those on the first pic of the gray bike, trekking bars? Any other pics of your brake/shifter setup?
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Old 06-08-12, 07:59 PM   #66
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Yeah that riser handlebar would have been nice if it had been about 100mm longer or so. The ends were just too short before it dropped down to be able to mount everything.

What sort of bars are those on the first pic of the gray bike, trekking bars? Any other pics of your brake/shifter setup?
Yes, Euro Trekking bars, here's a photo of the set up with a extra water bottle cage on the handlebar, I did later on:
I took off the bottle cage and headlight to add the "handlebar bag" after that, only had one bottle cage mount on the frame but found a bottle cage that attached via a big velcro band so I could have 2 cages and handlebar bag. Built a little holder to put the headlight, under the handlebar bag. FYI.
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Old 06-10-12, 12:54 PM   #67
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The flat bar is way better!
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Old 06-10-12, 04:09 PM   #68
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I think you'll really like going to a "non-suspension" fork, I took a Fuji comfort bike and changed it from a FAT tire/50mm front suspension to a sweet chrome, cro-molly road fork and 700cX28 road tires and LOVED it! I was really DUMB and sold it, the guy who bought it was thrilled to have it!
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Old 06-10-12, 11:10 PM   #69
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Rode the local MUP yesterday, 12.x miles in about 65 minutes which is a new best time for me, though it's been over a year since I last rode on it.

I noticed a bit of creaking/popping in the handlebar/stem (still using my old RaceFace bars and Nashbar adjustable stem). I stopped mid-ride and tightened the bolts holding the bar in place, but I still feel and hear a bit of creaking when I pedal out of the saddle. Not sure what's up with that.

I had planned on buying this short stem with a 30 degree angle from Nashbar, but recently noticed it's not listed anymore which is why I got this adjustable stem.
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Old 06-11-12, 09:29 AM   #70
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...I noticed a bit of creaking/popping in the handlebar/stem (still using my old RaceFace bars and Nashbar adjustable stem). I stopped mid-ride and tightened the bolts holding the bar in place, but I still feel and hear a bit of creaking when I pedal out of the saddle. Not sure what's up with that...
How old is your headset, or did the previous user use the bike MTBing? I possibly have the same noise. I kept checking the stem bolts but to no avail. My LBS tells me it's the headset, so I'm in the process of pricing a new one, which is strong enough to take a bit of beating. My noise is a "click" when I dance on the pedals, or brake heavily. Other idea is that there may be some play between your headset and head tube. The bike shop may recommend a shim as sometimes the alloy tubing stretches because of an ill fitted headset.
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Old 06-11-12, 11:54 AM   #71
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No idea how old the headset is. I can't even seem to figure out what year the bike is.

I'm pretty sure the headset and steer tube are fine as they were fine before swapping stem and handle bars. I'm pretty certain that the creak/pop is coming from the area where the stem clamps down around the handle bars.
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Old 06-12-12, 11:48 PM   #72
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Starting to think I might like bullhorn or "urban" bars. Much narrower profile than what I have currently, I could grip the ends if I want to sit upright sometimes, and if the entire middle portion is flat (like the pic) it should make mounting my brake levers and trigger shifters a snap. Thoughts?



Right now I'm having problems with my Deore rapid-fire shifters' housings for the gear position display interfering with the bends on my current low-rise flat bars (even worse with that high-rise bar pictured a few posts up).

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Old 06-13-12, 12:53 PM   #73
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I second the trekking/touring/butterfly handlebars. I like the excessive hand positions they offer. But go with what you think will make you comfortable. Here's a good article on handlebars (FYI: Sheldon Brown has a good article on just about EVERYTHING)
http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html

Watch out, though: Your mountain bike handlebar has a 7/8" (22.2mm) diameter handle area and a 25.4mm diameter on the area where the stem clamps on.
Road bike bars have a 15/16" (23.8mm) diameter handle area, and some have a 26mm diameter where the stem clamps. Make sure your new handlebar matches your old, because you don't want to have to replace your shifters and brake levers.

Also, I reccomend these to get your handlebars up higher. This fits into the steerer tube of the fork and basically extends it as long as you need. The stem then attaches to it and then to the handlebars as usual. With this, you won't need a new stem or a new fork!
http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/headset-parts/BHP-21/
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Old 06-13-12, 01:18 PM   #74
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hmmm I will need to check my current low-rise bars and the high-rise bars that I'm not using. Everything fit properly on both bars with regards to clamp size, but I only checked the stem clamp diameter when I ordered the high-rise bar. I was looking at this bar, and it only mentions the stem clamp area of 25.4mm: http://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?id=BPC127498 It doesn't mention the handle area diameter, but if the clamp area is 25.4 can I ASSume the handle area will be 22.2?

Even if it ends up being 23.8, couldn't I just open up the clamps a bit on the brake levers and shifters? I would likely use bar tape on this type of bar instead of my current grips.

I'm thinking this type of bar is supposed to be situated with the ends facing forward, but I've seen some people mount them with the ends facing backwards which is probably how I would have it.
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Old 06-13-12, 01:48 PM   #75
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The clamp size is the same, but it looks like that handlebar is designed for road brake levers and shifters.
http://store.somafab.com/sourpubar.html

I have read about people rigging mountain shifters and brake levers to work on road handlebars, but I don't know how easy it is to do. It sounds like it may be tricky to do. But if you really want to do it, I am sure it is possible. Search all the bike forums, I know I have seen threads on this very subject but can't find them now...

There are hundreds of bike parts manufacturers, so I know you aren't stuck on SOMA, but they do seem to have a good selection of handlebars and a great way to search them. It looks like they have a few styles of 22.2mm dia bars which may fit what you need
http://www.somafab.com/parts/handlebar


I know a lot of this stuff is confusing. I also just started out building/modifying bikes, and have bought alot of incompatible/ wrong size parts. In fact, that's why I had to use the steerer extender I showed you, because I bought a used fork with a steerer tube too small for my bike.

I'm currently building my first bike (a hybrid, it will be very similar to what you will have when you are done), as well as converting my wife's road bike to a flat-bar road bike. Which, coincidentally, is much harder than what you are trying to do for that exact same reason: I'm putting smaller mountain handlebars on it and therefore need new brake levers, shifters, cable, etc.

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