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Old 12-20-12, 11:02 PM   #26
pierce
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for MadProfit:

pop off your wheels, and put a millimeter ruler across where the axles go on the front and back of the frame, and measure the inside spacing. it /should/ be 100mm in the front, and 135mm in the back, but disc wheels might be different. whatever wheels you get will need that axle spacing.

if your bike is 700c now, you'll need 700c wheels, period. these are also called 29er in the mountain bike widths. you probably want to get 'trekking' or 'touring' wheels rather than racing/road bike, same thing but a bit heavier duty and wider (racing wheels are ultra-light, and often fragile)

the only other common wheel diameter is 26 inch, used on cruisers and traditional mountain bikes. 650B is a rarer size, and 27" is an old and obsolete size for low to mid range road bikes.

rims are alo referred to by their ETRO size. 700c is 622mm. 26" is 559mm. a tire commonly called 700C x 32 is called 32-622 in ETRO sizing.

for your needs, they have to be disk brake hubs, the axle nut to nut distance is correct, the rim diameter is correct, and the rim's width is suitable for the intended use, you're good to go.

you're probably not going to find a lightweight road bike wheel with disk brakes, disks are mostly used on mountain bikes, and increasingly Cyclecross, but those wheels are optimized for strength, for pounding over rough terrain, hopping rocks and such.

I'd say for your 40 mile ride, try and do a 25 mile ride or two first (if you're not already going that far), and rest the two days before the 40. drink lots and lots of water and nibble on energy bars for the 40.

Last edited by pierce; 12-20-12 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 12-21-12, 10:28 AM   #27
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Thank you pierce! See, that was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I figured that, like with the hybrid bike itself, the "road" wheels would have to be a compromise. I can accept that. I will not be doing centuries on this bike, period. If my desire along these lines - to ride in this type of setting - continues, I think I'll buy a road frame and build it. Learn something along the way and get to buy the best stuff I can afford.

That should help with GAS issues along with giving me a kick-ass ride. I'm really just drawn to the whole look and idea of the clean lines of the internal hub'ed concept. The Gates drive? That I can take or leave. The last trike I was thinking of getting would have had a Patterson drive up front and an Alfine 11 rear - but chainlines on a trike can never really be clean. The pictures of that Spot bike are just spot-on for what I'd love to see.

The 40 mile ride is FLAT - one 200' rise in the whole thing. There are several rides going on that morning - 34, 40, 60, and 100. The others are all, save for the 34 which is a completely different route, modifications of the 40. I've been 'training' (HAHAHAHAHA) for this by riding my town. It's very hilly and I've been riding basically 10 miles with 800 or so feet of elevation climb. Last two were 13.3 miles with 1440' of climb. All the climbing is done either in 4 or 7 miles in those since they are round trip. I'm going to start next week working on a 20 mile loop that will involve 10 miles of downhill first, then a climb of 1850' for the last 10. The ride is Feb 10, so the last two weeks I plan to increase to 40 miles, either doubling the 20 mile loop or going further up in the town on some of the paved fire trails. I suppose the weather will have more to say than me. It's snowing like a big dog out there right now.
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Old 12-21-12, 12:58 PM   #28
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really important to rest a couple days before a long ride. you should always have at least 1 rest day a week when training too.
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Old 12-21-12, 03:04 PM   #29
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Your bike essentially half 29'er mountain bike and half hybrid. With disc brakes the wheels are basically 29'er wheels so you may find more info on the mountain bike forum. Beyond the rim size (700C), hub spacing (100mm front; 135mm rear) and disc brake mounts I'm not sure what other info you need? I think what everyone is telling you is that you need to figure what you're trying to accomplish by "upgrading" wheels. You could drop a lot of coin on new wheels and have something that is indistinguishable from the stock wheels.
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Old 12-21-12, 07:34 PM   #30
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I'm seeing that. I may just invest in a second bike that's more road oriented. I like my Trek - a lot. No desire to get rid of it and I may move that one more toward off-road or trail work and get another that is more for road rides. I'm looking for a used one now.

And Dunbar, what I was asking was just what measurements are the key ones to know. Those questions have been answered for me since I started asking them. When starting out, like I am, getting good, unbiased info and answers to key things like what measurements matter can be difficult.

Last edited by MadProphet; 12-21-12 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 12-22-12, 12:13 AM   #31
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I'm seeing that. I may just invest in a second bike that's more road oriented. I like my Trek - a lot. No desire to get rid of it and I may move that one more toward off-road or trail work and get another that is more for road rides. I'm looking for a used one now.
That's what I would do. As long as you know what size to buy used bikes are the way to go, especially for second bikes. I picked up my '11 7.5FX for $550 and it had less than 200 miles on it. Used bikes depreciate a lot less than new bikes which stings less when you got to sell them.
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Old 12-22-12, 12:34 AM   #32
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a cyclocross bike, with two sets of tires, one for road riding, one for mixed dirt, wouldn't be a bad compromise if you just want one bike. these are generally drop bar, with a relaxed riding position
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Old 12-22-12, 05:49 AM   #33
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a cyclocross bike, with two sets of tires, one for road riding, one for mixed dirt, wouldn't be a bad compromise if you just want one bike. these are generally drop bar, with a relaxed riding position
Can't we do this with a hybrid? Isn't that why it's called a hybrid? Road and trail? Maybe my thoughts are off. My game plan is to install the 28mm tires on the new wheelset. Than install 40mm cyclocross tires on the existing wheels. All my riding in my area is on road. But next purchase is to install a bike rack on the car so I get to trails this spring. I thought I could just swap wheelsets when I needed to. Am I missing something?
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Old 12-22-12, 10:08 AM   #34
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Can't we do this with a hybrid? Isn't that why it's called a hybrid? Road and trail? Maybe my thoughts are off. My game plan is to install the 28mm tires on the new wheelset. Than install 40mm cyclocross tires on the existing wheels. All my riding in my area is on road. But next purchase is to install a bike rack on the car so I get to trails this spring. I thought I could just swap wheelsets when I needed to. Am I missing something?
Absolutely! As in - no - you're not missing anything and - yes - its a great approach! Thats exactly what people do when they swap over to studded tires on their commuters for winter driving.
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Old 12-22-12, 11:12 AM   #35
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Can't we do this with a hybrid? Isn't that why it's called a hybrid? Road and trail? Maybe my thoughts are off. My game plan is to install the 28mm tires on the new wheelset. Than install 40mm cyclocross tires on the existing wheels. All my riding in my area is on road. But next purchase is to install a bike rack on the car so I get to trails this spring. I thought I could just swap wheelsets when I needed to. Am I missing something?
See post 4. We could have saved a lot of time.
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Old 12-22-12, 09:20 PM   #36
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Yep. Sorry to thread-jack. I kinda figured our needs paralleled so I was tagging along. I think I got all the info I needed. I called two LBS's today and got WILDLY varying price lists. From my Trek dealer, for a simple set of wheels for road use, $75 each. Plus tires, tubes and the cassette for the rear end. The other dealer is a much more hands-on, build it yourself place (I really like these people, wish I'd bought from them originally, but they only carry Giant), said around $350 for the pair, plus the same stuff. But these would be hand made and tuned, plus I can pick and choose all the pieces. That's getting close, tho, to buying either a used roadie or a new lower-end one.

Lots of thinkin' to do. (and my mind keeps going to the Spot Acme with a Patteson.... already found a dealer who will build it... decisions, decisions)
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Old 12-22-12, 10:17 PM   #37
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the /parts/ to make a decent wheel, with quality stainless spokes from Wheelsmiths or DT or whatever, decent but not too fancy hubs like Deore, and decent quality rims will cost you at LEAST $100/wheel. Anything cheaper than that is using cheap parts.
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Old 12-23-12, 03:39 AM   #38
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the /parts/ to make a decent wheel, with quality stainless spokes from Wheelsmiths or DT or whatever, decent but not too fancy hubs like Deore, and decent quality rims will cost you at LEAST $100/wheel. Anything cheaper than that is using cheap parts.
Yikes! You're probably being pretty conservative with that estimate! Just the spokes and nipples will be around $40 and personally I think its a waste of time to spend more on spokes than on a rim or on a hub so ..... I always end up over the $150 mark.
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Old 12-23-12, 08:24 AM   #39
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My recent build, prices delivered to my door-
$27.35 CR-18 rim (27")
$32.70 spokes DT Swiss 18 Champion 14 ga. (DS) & 18 Competition 14/15 DB (NDS)
$20 FH-RM30 hub (2/$39.95) (respaced to 130mm w/solid axle, so that added about $9-10)
$4 nipples which I had out of my box of 500

I still had to add the rim tape & 9 speed cassette, which was about $40.

I had no qualms about using an "inexpensive" rim. I could have paid more from other vendors, but it's still the same rim. Totally more than adequate for a 74? 10 speed road bike that's been converted to a 27 speed Hybrid.
Cheap hubs are fine as long as you service them.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 12-23-12 at 08:30 AM.
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