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  1. #1
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    Wheelset Upgrade?

    Thinking on upgrading my wheelset. Since I have disc brakes do I need to purchase disc ready wheels? Most that I see are for mountain use. Can I purchase a set of road wheels and add discs? Most are 622 size which I know are in the range for want I might want. Also they are all listed as 29ners which I believe as the same size as 700C. I might want to put my new 28 tires on new wheels and keep my 38 on the exisiting wheels.
    Any thoughts would help.

    Looking at
    MTB
    Fulcrum Red Power
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1NCQRP4X88I17

    Fulcrum Red Power 29 XL
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2TE9IQP68MWQU

    Road
    3T Accelero 40 Pro Wheelset
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2RCT8MB1RT96V
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    You have linked to 3 very different wheels. All of these wheels are an overkill for a hybrid.

    Without knowing what bike / fork you currently have, it's pretty hard got tell what you need, but from the 3 listed

    Fulcrum Red Power - disc yes, you will need 6-bolt rotors,

    Fulcrum Red Power 29 XL - as the Red Power, but if your forks aren't 15mm, these won't work

    3T Accelero 40 Pro Wheelset - these are non disc wheels, so if you have disc's they won't work for you, also, these are road race wheels, more suited for tires upto 25mm, 28mm would possibly work, but would look all wrong, and defeat the point of the 37mm deep rim.

  3. #3
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    Sorry for not listing what bike. Thats why I am asking, very confusing on researching wheelsets.

    Raleigh Misceo 2.0
    fork is listed as 4130 Chromoly w/Disc Tabs
    http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/life...misceo-2-0-13/

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    First Question-
    What is your goal for upgrading?
    Is something wrong with your wheels, or do you just want a spare set mounted with different tires?

    The RIMS (not wheels) on the bike should be exactly like these- For disc brake, you need disc brake hubs.
    http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytec-.../dp/B004AIE3O2

    These rims would handle a 28MM tire and probably as small as 26mm, although that's starting to push it.

    Disc RIMS don't need a brake track.

  5. #5
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    If those are JoyTech hubs, thats basicly the same company that makes Novatech wheels and hubs. JoyTech is just the low end stuff and as such is inexpensive and common as OEM on some bikes.

    That said - the cheapest and most effective wheelset upgrade you can do is to check the bearing cones and, if everything is concentric, properly lubed and adjusted and in good condition - just put on the best road slicks you can afford. Great tires on a mediorce wheelset will still outperform a higher end wheelset with lousy tires.

    Otherwise IMO you could easily end up spending hundreds (or thousands) of dollars for another wheelset and still won't get the most out of them without a decent set of tires.

  6. #6
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    my stock hybrid wheels have the usual crappy Alex rims, that are prone to going out of tune, and use cheap noname hubs. I plan on replacing them next year with something along the lines of Deore hubs with Velocity Dyad rims, 36H for strength (at least on the rear wheel). Best source of factory built wheels is, IMHO, Handspun Wheels, which is QBP's captive brand. Pavement Series 5.1 is in my sights now, but by the time I'm ready they will likely have a new model.

    any factory made wheels should be trued and tuned up before even installing, and then again after 100 or so miles to settle in. for this reason, I plan on getting my wheels through a LBS and paying them for the truing service (I used to build my own wheels 35 years ago, but am FAR out of practice, so will rely on said LBS).

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierce View Post
    my stock hybrid wheels have the usual crappy Alex rims, that are prone to going out of tune, and use cheap noname hubs. I plan on replacing them next year with something along the lines of Deore hubs with Velocity Dyad rims, 36H for strength (at least on the rear wheel). Best source of factory built wheels is, IMHO, Handspun Wheels, which is QBP's captive brand. Pavement Series 5.1 is in my sights now, but by the time I'm ready they will likely have a new model.

    any factory made wheels should be trued and tuned up before even installing, and then again after 100 or so miles to settle in. for this reason, I plan on getting my wheels through a LBS and paying them for the truing service (I used to build my own wheels 35 years ago, but am FAR out of practice, so will rely on said LBS).
    pierce, I was waiting on your impute. Still researching, I fiqure the stock wheels suck. Just want to upgrade to a $100 to $150 wheel.
    found out not all 622 rims are the same. Ideal size for 28mm tires would be 622-19.
    But I'll keep looking. LBS might be the way to go.
    Thanks

  8. #8
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    I'm sticking with 32-38mm tires on my hybrid

    high thread count 32mm rocks. I like being able to ride on loose services without having to freak out.

  9. #9
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    according to the tech help these should fit. Mavic Crossride Disc 29in Wheelset
    http://www.backcountry.com/Store/cat...ductId=MAV0419

    20% off free ship

    Any comments on Mavic wheelsets?

  10. #10
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
    according to the tech help these should fit. Mavic Crossride Disc 29in Wheelset
    http://www.backcountry.com/Store/cat...ductId=MAV0419

    20% off free ship

    Any comments on Mavic wheelsets?
    Have Mavic A719s on XT hubs and a set of Cosmic Elites. The Crossride is overkill for a hybrid so yeah - nice wheels! And to repeat what I initially posted - a great set of wheels is a waste with only mediocre tires. So personally I'd start with some great tires on your current rims and then if you still have the itch ..... go for it! You can always put the new tires on those new rims!

  11. #11
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    Pull the trigger on a set of Velocity VXC Rims & Shimano M475 Hubs 29er MTB Disc Brake Wheelset
    I agree the Crossride was a overkill but wanted to get new rims for my new tires / Freedom Thickslicks Urban 28mm
    $160 for the set a good price for an extra set of wheels.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/190757396653...84.m1439.l2649

  12. #12
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    28mm tires are awfully skinny for '29er' style rims. the 29er crowd usually runs 40mm or 50mm or wider tires

  13. #13
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by njsteve View Post
    .........Still researching, I fiqure the stock wheels suck. Just want to upgrade to a $100 to $150 wheel..........
    Just get them trued/TENSIONED by someone who is 1/2 competent. Keep the bearings serviced and the wheels should last 1000's of miles. You don't have a brake track to wear out, so what's to go wrong?

    $100-150 /wheel isn't that much of an "upgrade" IMO, unless you build it yourself.
    Spend your money on tools and learn to maintain the bike yourself. That will result in a much "sweeter" ride.
    Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 12-18-12 at 01:54 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierce View Post
    28mm tires are awfully skinny for '29er' style rims. the 29er crowd usually runs 40mm or 50mm or wider tires
    the wheels are 23mm outer 19mm inner. should be right on.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    Just get them trued/TENSIONED by someone who is 1/2 competent. Keep the bearings serviced and the wheels should last 1000's of miles. You don't have a brake track to wear out, so what's to go wrong?

    Will take the bike to LBS for wheel install right after Xmas. Due for my follow up tune.

    $100-150 /wheel isn't that much of an "upgrade" IMO, unless you build it yourself.
    Spend your money on tools and learn to maintain the bike yourself. That will result in a much "sweeter" ride.
    I am a little confuse. The previous poster said the higher price wheels were an overkill. These should be an upgrade over my stock wheels.
    planning on maybe going wider and better on the stock wheels to go off pavement this summer.

  16. #16
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    Bicycle Wheel Warehouse has some hybird wheels with 6-bolt hubs that will work with disc brakes. Unless the new wheelset is lighter though I don't see the point in upgrading unless you are popping spokes or constantly having to true your stock wheels.

    http://bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/Road/Road-Hybrid-R135/

  17. #17
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Your current wheels will handle 26 to 50MM tires.
    Spend $15/wheel to get them tensioned and they'll be better than your "proposed upgrade".

    You have a vague solution in search of a problem.

  18. #18
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    Your current wheels will handle 26 to 50MM tires.
    Spend $15/wheel to get them tensioned and they'll be better than your "proposed upgrade".

    You have a vague solution in search of a problem.
    Bill is correct and if you check back - I initially suggested the cheapest most effective upgrade would be to just service the bearings on your current wheels and get some great tires. Getting them retensioned at the same timme makes sense.

    I mentioned that the wheels you originally picked out were overkill simply because they're designed to handle far more abuse than your riding style will give them. So - nice wheels - but why pay for three times more than you need?
    Last edited by Burton; 12-20-12 at 08:36 AM.

  19. #19
    Drink my Koolaid MadProphet's Avatar
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    OK, I'm new to this whole bike game, but...what if he just wants to upgrade just to upgrade? (You know - GAS - gear acquisition syndrome) In most hobbies, that's a goal of a lot of players. When I had my Harleys - and I'm sure the same is true now - you could go to any HD dealer on any weekend and watch a veritable parade of bike owners in there buying bits of kit just to buy bits of kit. I put more money into my FatBoy than many people make in a year - just cause (at the time) I could. While I'd love to have some of that money back, I don't regret it.

    I would like to upgrade my wheels and tires. I wish I could find a simple, concise 'instruction' web page on doing just that. "If this fits, you can use these" or "these are the measurements that matter" so I could look at the specs of my current gear and know what to buy - or what I CAN buy - to replace them.

    As far as I know, nothing's wrong with what I have. I have the stock wheels, rims, spokes, hubs and tires. I'd like to replace the tires with something higher pressure and with more deliberate puncture protection, but aside from 700c x 38, I've no idea what I can use. I don't know where/what to measure to know if I can go wider and I'm pretty sure I don't want to go skinnier. I've straight up asked the LBS I got my bike from what tires I could upgrade to. They looked through their catalog and said I should keep these. Several things I've asked about got the same reception. I'm not sure if the bike actually has great gear or if they don't carry good gear. Most businesses are more than happy to replace perfectly good stuff with something 'better' cause they make money! I know my 8.3 doesn't have everything the 8.6 has, so I'm SURE there's some upgrades.

    For wheels... honesty, I'd like something that has a bit more 'look' to them, number one. Number two, I'd like something designed to go tubeless, if I can. I'd like choices in that matter. I'd also like, given that I weigh 225-230, something TOUGH but without too much of a weight penalty. On the rear, I'm really considering having one built for an Alfine 11 hub. But I don't know enough to know what to look for in my new setup.

    On another note, and beyond the simple GAS reason for upgrades, I'd like a spare wheelset with tires designed purely for street work. I have looked at a group ride coming up in Feb that will be 40 miles and I don't want to do it on my hybrid 60psi semi-knobby tires. I'd like something like a Schwalbe Marathon Plus (great puncture resistance plus higher PSI). No clue, none, zero, what wheels would be best. I don't know, when I read the sites that sell wheels, what will fit on my bike nor what the pieces add or take away from my current setup. I'd like to be able to look at a spec sheet and go, "oh, that will work for" and know the reasons.

    I've asked around on forums, but get a lot of the same responses.

    Obviously, my opinion is that if you want to upgrade or change something, you should do what your situation and desire allows you to do. At the same time, I hope people with more experience will temper that desire with some common sense, especially if you provide reasoning (outside that of just GAS) that is not well grounded.

    . Any pages or sites you guys can point to or any guidelines you can offer would be much appreciated.
    Last edited by MadProphet; 12-20-12 at 10:15 AM.
    Trek DS 8.3 -> Trek Domane 2.0
    www.ascendingparadise.com

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    OK, I'm new to this whole bike game, but...what if he just wants to upgrade just to upgrade?

    I guess I have it. (GAS) Been upgrading my cars for years. Much cheaper to upgrade my bike.


    On another note, and beyond the simple GAS reason for upgrades, I'd like a spare wheelset with tires designed purely for street work.

    That was my thinking also. I wanted a set of tires just for the road. Thats why I research for 28mm tires. Now I want to put 40 to 50mm tires on my stock rims to ride off road. Maybe cycrocrossing?

    I wish I could find a simple, concise 'instruction' web page on doing just that

    I with you. If you find it let me know.

  21. #21
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    afaik, tubeless is strictly an option for high end LARGE mountain bike tires, I don't believe there's any tubeless action in the road or hybrid sizes.

    If your bike currently has 700x38, you likely can use x32 or x35 on the same wheels without any hassles. If you want a great tire, try the Vittoria Hyper Randonneur folders, these come in x32, x35, and x38, and are 180 threads/inch, which means they have a strong supple sidewall, so they ride great, and they have a good puncture resistant inner layer. they have a highly retro-reflective stripe on the sidewall, which is a great safety feature for street riding.

    with your weight, I'd stick with the fatter sizes, while you COULD ride on x28's, you'd need to run much higher pressure, and this would make a harsher ride, and also make your wheels more subject to pinch flats from hitting a hard edge on the pavement.

    here's /my/ cheap hybrid, with the Hyper Randonneurs in 700x32 on the stock wheels...

  22. #22
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    as far as wheelset compatibility goes... your bike undoubtedly has a 100mm front axle 'nut to nut' spacing (this is measured at the inside of the fork tip to the other side), nearly all bikes have this same number, except certain VERY heavy duty mountain bikes. Your rear wheel is probably 135mm nut-to-nut (same thing, the space between the rear 'dropouts' that the wheel mounts on), this is the standard mountain bike size. road bikes use narrower sizes, typically 130mm for the latest with 2x10 gearing, and 127mm for earlier 2x8 or 2x9. See http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#spacing for a discussion on this.

    I wouldn't bother to try and convert a mostly-road bike to disk brakes. they weigh more, and put more stress on the frame. While they are nice for serious hard core mudders on a full mountain bike, caliber brakes (including v-brakes, cantilever, sidepulls) work just fine, even in the wet. Keep the brake pads and rims clean, keep the pads and brakes well adjusted.

  23. #23
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Consider a locally built, hand made wheel-set, then you can choose all 3 parts.
    Hubs, Spokes And Rims.
    optimum to your actual needs ..

    Bike a commuter?

    This would also Be a good time to consider adding the Practicality of a front Hub Dynamo,
    for 24/7 power to run lights and trickle charge all the electronic toys
    people seem to have all the time to fill their life ..


    perhaps a dual drive rear hub.. 3 speeds in the hub shift stopped, at a light.. from high to low
    so hitting the light in high[like big ring] doesn't mean you have to start off in it.

    then you sell the triple crank for 1 chain ring, plus..
    that , eliminating the frond derailleur, will take a chain/trouser guard to keep them clean.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 12-20-12 at 02:10 PM.

  24. #24
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadProphet View Post
    OK, I'm new to this whole bike game, but...what if he just wants to upgrade just to upgrade? (You know - GAS - gear acquisition syndrome) In most hobbies, that's a goal of a lot of players. When I had my Harleys - and I'm sure the same is true now - you could go to any HD dealer on any weekend and watch a veritable parade of bike owners in there buying bits of kit just to buy bits of kit. I put more money into my FatBoy than many people make in a year - just cause (at the time) I could. While I'd love to have some of that money back, I don't regret it.

    I would like to upgrade my wheels and tires. I wish I could find a simple, concise 'instruction' web page on doing just that. "If this fits, you can use these" or "these are the measurements that matter" so I could look at the specs of my current gear and know what to buy - or what I CAN buy - to replace them.

    As far as I know, nothing's wrong with what I have. I have the stock wheels, rims, spokes, hubs and tires. I'd like to replace the tires with something higher pressure and with more deliberate puncture protection, but aside from 700c x 38, I've no idea what I can use. I don't know where/what to measure to know if I can go wider and I'm pretty sure I don't want to go skinnier. I've straight up asked the LBS I got my bike from what tires I could upgrade to. They looked through their catalog and said I should keep these. Several things I've asked about got the same reception. I'm not sure if the bike actually has great gear or if they don't carry good gear. Most businesses are more than happy to replace perfectly good stuff with something 'better' cause they make money! I know my 8.3 doesn't have everything the 8.6 has, so I'm SURE there's some upgrades.

    For wheels... honesty, I'd like something that has a bit more 'look' to them, number one. Number two, I'd like something designed to go tubeless, if I can. I'd like choices in that matter. I'd also like, given that I weigh 225-230, something TOUGH but without too much of a weight penalty. On the rear, I'm really considering having one built for an Alfine 11 hub. But I don't know enough to know what to look for in my new setup.

    On another note, and beyond the simple GAS reason for upgrades, I'd like a spare wheelset with tires designed purely for street work. I have looked at a group ride coming up in Feb that will be 40 miles and I don't want to do it on my hybrid 60psi semi-knobby tires. I'd like something like a Schwalbe Marathon Plus (great puncture resistance plus higher PSI). No clue, none, zero, what wheels would be best. I don't know, when I read the sites that sell wheels, what will fit on my bike nor what the pieces add or take away from my current setup. I'd like to be able to look at a spec sheet and go, "oh, that will work for" and know the reasons.

    I've asked around on forums, but get a lot of the same responses.

    Obviously, my opinion is that if you want to upgrade or change something, you should do what your situation and desire allows you to do. At the same time, I hope people with more experience will temper that desire with some common sense, especially if you provide reasoning (outside that of just GAS) that is not well grounded.

    . Any pages or sites you guys can point to or any guidelines you can offer would be much appreciated.
    Very nice post and think you'll find bikes are a lot like motorcycles - lots of people (myself included) own multiple bikes and 'upgrade' just cause they can. So its not always a matter of "what should I upgrade to?" as much as "What would I like better?" And thats tough to answer.

    The OP posted a link to a 2013 Raleigh Misceo 2.0 rigid front fork disc brake equipped hybrid. Technically you could swap out just about anything on the bike. Practically - there's nothing wrong with the bike as it is. So much of the discussion is going to be around where to start and how much to spend. The OP mentioned wheels. Nothing wrong with that. But there's probably still some question as to what 'upgrade' means. Is it aesthetic or performance? And whats the buget?

    I'm working on a project of my own and its purely for aesthetics. Got the girlfriend a 2012 Giant Seek 1 which is an all black hybrid very similar to the Raleigh in many respects. My challenge is to 'pink it out' a bit cause Fanny is a bit of a girlie girl. So probably bar ends with pink bar tape, pink pedals and pink cable housing. Aside from that I managed to dig up some discontinued Hone brake/shifters just cause I have them and she adores them. Everyone has their own objectives and personally I'm still not at all clear on what the OP's objectives are.

  25. #25
    Drink my Koolaid MadProphet's Avatar
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    For me, I've (obviously, given the sig) got a Trek 8.3 DS - discs standard. I've decided to do a 40 mile ride in early Feb and I'm hoping to get a wheelset prior to that. The front dynamo is something I've considered already. The rear end is my main concern. I've looked at the 3x9 SRAM's and I'm not impressed. Most of my experience is with 'bent trikes and the SRAM's got very mixed reviews there. That's why I was thinking an Alfine 11. I realize there's a lot of changes there if I was to do that.

    In the meantime, I do want a more road-oriented tire with higher pressure. I'm going to be checking out the ones Pierce reco'd as they seem well-reviewed and reasonably priced. I think you guys have given me the pieces I need to do the new wheelset. One thing.... Are 700c interchangeable with another size? I see some wheel sites (and I can't find the one I was looking at right this second) that listed by bike type, rather than size and 700c was not one of the choices under any of the types.

    Is there a max/min size I can use on my Trek? And is this information gathered somewhere, like Sheldon has gathered all the pieces of gear trains? I'd like to be able to plug in: stuff like that 100mm front distance, plus 700c original size and disc brakes. Then it spits out hub (sizes? dimensions? models?) I can use. I see 'straight-through' hubs and on and on. Is the only way to know through experience? Treks website simply sucks except for sales. I'd just like to be able to know 'hey, these wheels look cool and contain these factors (number/size of spokes, type of hub, type of rim) and I can use that on my bike!

    Or am I just kidding myself?
    Trek DS 8.3 -> Trek Domane 2.0
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