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  1. #1
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    need some advice after 150 miles...

    So I've hit the 150mi mark on the 7.2 fx and I have one glaring issue. Gearing. I average about 12.5 mph whenever I ride. I know my body can do more, but the gears seems to be spaced too far apart. Let's say 2/5 (front/rear) is too easy but 2/6 makes for too much effort for the output.

    I see the roadies and maintaining speed for them seems so effortless. Would switching my drivetrain to a road bike set up give me more options as far as gear selection? skinnier tires? it's damn frustrating, sorry for venting. any advice would be appreciated.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  2. #2
    Senior Member MRT2's Avatar
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    Just ride what you have. My suggestion would be to do intervals, alternating between harder and easier gears. Your 7.2 fx will never be a road bike, but that doesn't mean you can't increase your average speed with some effort.

  3. #3
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    You can switch out the cassette if you don't need the range .. get a 12-26 cassette.
    http://treadrightly.blogspot.com/

  4. #4
    Senior Member Pilky's Avatar
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    I agree with MRT2. You still have plenty of room to better yourself before you need to start worrying about gearing or new tires.

  5. #5
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    I see what you all are saying, I guess I should clarify by saying that it's not getting up to the speed that is an issue, it's maintaining it. I can settle in to a decent mph, but keeping it there is a chore. There is no sweet spot I can settle at and just go. one gear seems like 120 rpm and the next is 40... maybe it's just me? technique? I don't know.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  6. #6
    Senior Member MRT2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellinibean View Post
    I see what you all are saying, I guess I should clarify by saying that it's not getting up to the speed that is an issue, it's maintaining it. I can settle in to a decent mph, but keeping it there is a chore. There is no sweet spot I can settle at and just go. one gear seems like 120 rpm and the next is 40... maybe it's just me? technique? I don't know.
    You only have 150 miles under your belt. Get more miles in before spending money changing up your bike. We all have thoughts like this. Change out the cassette, get a more road oriented setup, switching from a triple chainring to a compact double. I have, maybe 400 or 500 miles on my present bike, which I bought late last year. Just the other day, I was thinking that I should maybe switch from a triple to a compact double, as I hadn't ever used the granny gear. Then yesterday, I was on a ride and faced a short but very steep hill. I thought to myself, ****, how am I going to make it up that hill? And a lightbulb went off. Use the granny gear. Problem solved.

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    I bet that part of your problem is that you're trying to push too much gear. A very common problem that I see when I'm out riding is that people are not comfortable riding their bike at higher cadences. If you watch the fast guys, you'll notice that they're legs are moving a lot faster than most riders.

    Are you sure you're at 120RPM in the lower gear that feels uncomfortable (that's a pretty high cadence!)?

  8. #8
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    I should have shopped and researched gearing a little better, that's all. Other than that I love the bike. Only other issue is numbness in my hands and in my right foot around mile 25 or so. I know how to fix that though.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomCat_Ford View Post
    I bet that part of your problem is that you're trying to push too much gear. A very common problem that I see when I'm out riding is that people are not comfortable riding their bike at higher cadences. If you watch the fast guys, you'll notice that they're legs are moving a lot faster than most riders.

    Are you sure you're at 120RPM in the lower gear that feels uncomfortable (that's a pretty high cadence!)?
    As best I can tell, if i'm in say, 2/5 on a flat trail it is easy enough that my foot completes a revolution around twice a second. if I switch to the next gear to slow my cadence down it's a huge change and i'm then pedaling 40-60 id say, which I feel is too slow for maintenance speed. I need that gear in between so I can sit around 15mph @ 60-90 rpm. That's what I would like ideally. Am I wrong in expecting that from an entry level hybrid?
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  10. #10
    Senior Member MRT2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellinibean View Post
    As best I can tell, if i'm in say, 2/5 on a flat trail it is easy enough that my foot completes a revolution around twice a second. if I switch to the next gear to slow my cadence down it's a huge change and i'm then pedaling 40-60 id say, which I feel is too slow for maintenance speed. I need that gear in between so I can sit around 15mph @ 60-90 rpm. That's what I would like ideally. Am I wrong in expecting that from an entry level hybrid?
    When you get stronger, you will be able to push the higher gear at a higher cadence, and maintain a higher speed. You get stronger by riding more, (or in bad weather by riding on an indoor trainer or spinning bike).

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRT2 View Post
    When you get stronger, you will be able to push the higher gear at a higher cadence, and maintain a higher speed. You get stronger by riding more, (or in bad weather by riding on an indoor trainer or spinning bike).
    well, i'm at 150 in 3 weeks, so I've got a good pace going.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  12. #12
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellinibean View Post
    I see what you all are saying, I guess I should clarify by saying that it's not getting up to the speed that is an issue, it's maintaining it. I can settle in to a decent mph, but keeping it there is a chore. There is no sweet spot I can settle at and just go. one gear seems like 120 rpm and the next is 40... maybe it's just me? technique? I don't know.
    I completely understand what your saying, you want to maintain the same cadence regardless of the road. And when you switch to the next gear, you have huge difference. That's why I changed mine from a 11-36 to a 11-26 (mine is a 10 speed rear) but you can do the same. Here is a link to REI : http://www.rei.com/product/769222/sh...a-001b2166becc 12-25 or 13-26... There is a way to calculate which would be best for you. Post the gear which you spend the most time in, and which direction you shift the most. (up or down) & what chain ring you are in in the front. (Middle ?) And I will give you the right choice. There is NO reason to wait till you wear out the old one, before you switch. You wouldn't wait till you wore out your shoes if they didn't fit right. Life to short, if you can afford it, go for it. Your talking under 50.00 dollars any way. Buy it from the LBS, & they will put it on for like 10 bucks..
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoxoxoxoLive View Post
    I completely understand what your saying, you want to maintain the same cadence regardless of the road. And when you switch to the next gear, you have huge difference. That's why I changed mine from a 11-36 to a 11-26 (mine is a 10 speed rear) but you can do the same. Here is a link to REI : http://www.rei.com/product/769222/sh...a-001b2166becc 12-25 or 13-26... There is a way to calculate which would be best for you. Post the gear which you spend the most time in, and which direction you shift the most. (up or down) & what chain ring you are in in the front. (Middle ?) And I will give you the right choice. There is NO reason to wait till you wear out the old one, before you switch. You wouldn't wait till you wore out your shoes if they didn't fit right. Life to short, if you can afford it, go for it. Your talking under 50.00 dollars any way. Buy it from the LBS, & they will put it on for like 10 bucks..
    ill check that out, thanks xoxo.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  14. #14
    Senior Member MRT2's Avatar
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    Does Seattle have hills?

  15. #15
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellinibean View Post
    ill check that out, thanks xoxo.
    There is just wasted gearing from the factory, they try and give you a wide range that you really don't need. That's what the front chain rings are for, My cadence would drop 25 RPM's with the 11-36, instead of 5.. with the 11-26. It has nothing to do with how strong you are, why do you think the roadies run 11-25 and the like. Ask your sales rep. at your LBS, it would even change strong riders cadence. That's why they maintain there speed better..
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

  16. #16
    Senior Member martinus's Avatar
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    You proly have a MTB cass. on there, from one gear to the next there is a 2 tooth diff... a road bike cass. each gear is only ONE tooth bigger then the next ... you can listen those ^^^ guys ( donno if they even read your post ) & train all you want, there is only one fix.
    Last edited by martinus; 05-05-13 at 07:44 PM.

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    Bend the knees, watch the trees ... 5 $ please .

  17. #17
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    If you are on a Mountain Bike, that's a another story. Your not trying to maintain a certain cadence, but need a huge range of gearing for the terrain..
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

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    I have a Trek 7.4 and I don't find the issue you are discussing. When I first started a about 60 days ago it was suggested that I get a Cateye cadence computer and try and maintain between 80 and 100 rpms. If found that I was way to low of gear and the computer has helped me find a rhythm and know when to shift. If you don't have a cycle computer I would suggest you get one.

  19. #19
    Senior Member martinus's Avatar
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    FX 7.2 cass : Shimano HG31 12-32, 8 speed

    FX 7.4 cass : Shimano HG31 11-32, 9 speed

    FX 7.7 cass : Shimano Tiagra 12-30, 10 speed

    ... give the guy a break !
    Last edited by martinus; 05-05-13 at 08:02 PM.

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    Bend the knees, watch the trees ... 5 $ please .

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRT2 View Post
    Does Seattle have hills?
    yes especially in the downtown area.

    Quote Originally Posted by martinus View Post
    You proly have a MTB cass. on there, from one gear to the next there is a 2 tooth diff... a road bike cass. each gear is only ONE tooth bigger then the next ... you can listen those ^^^ guys ( donno if they even read your post ) & train all you want, there is only one fix.
    as far as I know the trek FX like comes with MTB drivetrain components.
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoxoxoxoLive View Post
    I completely understand what your saying, you want to maintain the same cadence regardless of the road. And when you switch to the next gear, you have huge difference. That's why I changed mine from a 11-36 to a 11-26 (mine is a 10 speed rear) but you can do the same. Here is a link to REI : http://www.rei.com/product/769222/sh...a-001b2166becc 12-25 or 13-26... There is a way to calculate which would be best for you. Post the gear which you spend the most time in, and which direction you shift the most. (up or down) & what chain ring you are in in the front. (Middle ?) And I will give you the right choice. There is NO reason to wait till you wear out the old one, before you switch. You wouldn't wait till you wore out your shoes if they didn't fit right. Life to short, if you can afford it, go for it. Your talking under 50.00 dollars any way. Buy it from the LBS, & they will put it on for like 10 bucks..
    i'm almost always in 5-7 on the rear and always middle front. A lot if the rail trails I take don't have much elevation change. If I'm in the city, I'm using the entire rear cassette and still just the middle up front. Come to think of it the only time I moved the front was climbing the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and then coming down..
    2013 Trek 7.2FX

  22. #22
    Senior Member martinus's Avatar
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    Here is you issue, you have a : Shimano altus HG31 8 cass Cogs: 11/13/15/18/21/24/28/32... The gear you are looking for just isnt there !

    You proly want a : 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21T 8 speed Shimano Sora HG50 ... That way your granny gear ( smallest chainring on the crank ) can get some use. : o)
    Last edited by martinus; 05-05-13 at 08:24 PM.

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    Bend the knees, watch the trees ... 5 $ please .

  23. #23
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinus View Post
    Here is you issue, you have a : Shimano altus HG31 8 cass Cogs: 11/13/15/18/21/24/28/32... The gear you are looking for just isnt there !

    You proly want a : 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21T 8 speed Shimano Sora HG50 ... That way your granny gear ( smallest chainring on the crank ) can get some use. : o)
    I agree totally, nice answer.
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

  24. #24
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Here is a gear calculator, this is the same one my local Trek dealer uses. You said that you ride in 2 & 7 most of the time, the 12-21 mentioned above would give you LOTS of smooth up shifting, and to go faster, you would just go to the largest chain ring in the front when 2 & 7 is not enough. Your not loosing any gears, just gaining fine tuning. Play around on this chart, and you will understand. http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

  25. #25
    Senior Member xoxoxoxoLive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Planemaker View Post
    I have a Trek 7.4 and I don't find the issue you are discussing. When I first started a about 60 days ago it was suggested that I get a Cateye cadence computer and try and maintain between 80 and 100 rpms. If found that I was way to low of gear and the computer has helped me find a rhythm and know when to shift. If you don't have a cycle computer I would suggest you get one.
    Not to beat this to death, but here was my first take on the gearing. (Just want to recant my QUICK verdict on the FX 7.6, its a very sweet looking bike, but the gearing does not make sense to me. : 11-36 34-50 Sram Rival front crank) MTB gears on a Flat Bar Road Bike. I also have a cadence sensor.
    2013 TREK 7.6 FX

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