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  1. #1
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    Suspension seat post

    Three questions -
    What are the pros and cons of a suspension seat post?
    Would putting one on a solid fork bike cause any issues?
    Do they really help in paved road ride quality or are they just for off road?

  2. #2
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    Cons:

    Increased weight
    Increased complexity
    Potential squeeking
    Changing pedal position (unless you get a parallelogram seatpost)
    Difficulty of finding spare parts
    Slop. Sideways movement, parallelogram slop, etc
    Difficulty of tuning to rider weight (damping, spring weight)

    Pros:

    None

    There are no issues running one with a suspension fork. I prefer a post that doesnt move up, down or twist. Theyre for any bike you want. If you want it, slap it on. My opinion is that they are unnecessary, hence my suggestion would be to get a lower pressure higher volume tire.

  3. #3
    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    While I haven't encountered most of the cons listed in the previous post, I would agree that they are more trouble than they are worth...

    Whether or not your bike has a suspension fork is pretty irrelevant to your choice.

    On my 10 year old hybrid, I adjusted the suspension on the seatpost so tight that it is in effect a heavier version of a fixed seat post. I also swapped out my suspension fork for a solid fork. I found that both were more irritating than useful for my usual riding, which consists of paved or crushed stone surfaces.

    The biggest advantage of suspension forks and seat posts on bikes is that they sell more bikes, since people are looking for a magic solution to make bike riding easy on their posteriors.

    The real solution to the problems that people think they are solving is to ride more. It doesn't take long to get used to rising out of the saddle and on to the pedals to glide over bumps, which does more for you than any suspension ever could unless you are doing hard core mountain biking.

    As mentioned above, the best option if you really need something to help you, is to go with larger tires.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post

    The real solution to the problems that people think they are solving is to ride more. It doesn't take long to get used to rising out of the saddle and on to the pedals to glide over bumps, which does more for you than any suspension ever could unless you are doing hard core mountain biking.

    As mentioned above, the best option if you really need something to help you, is to go with larger tires.
    Good tip. Technique accounts for a lot in cycling. The get out of the saddle tip is good. If the bumpiness is extended, switch to a slightly higher gear (more resistance,) in order for your pedal force to help you get out of the saddle easier. Its easier done than written

  5. #5
    Senior Member BruceHankins's Avatar
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    My wife's hybrid has one and I don't care for it. All of the other bikes have a solid seat post. I think most people come out of the saddle when they see a upcoming bump anyway. It's the ones you don't see that hurt your boys.

  6. #6
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    Wow sounds like a rare consensus !! Thanks for the info

  7. #7
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    Another thing you can try is a flexier saddle. Some saddles have bases that flex alot more than others. Others have flexier rails, usually in Ti or carbon. To avoid painful bottoming out, choose a saddle with a large distance from rails to base and choose a seatpost without extra long bolts or anything that could interfere with the flex. On the topic of seatposts, if you have alot of seatpost showing, a carbon or lightweight Al seatpost can take the edge off stings.
    Last edited by DorkDisk; 02-18-14 at 12:17 PM. Reason: spelling

  8. #8
    Senior Member SHOFINE's Avatar
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    I believe the best suspension seat post is the Cane Creek Thudbuster...lot of Mtn bikers love them! http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_3h8nn6w2kc_b

    I plan on the short travel one to replace the one on my Motebecane Jubilee along with a rigid fork. Also, I have a Brooks Flyer Saddle on my Dr. Fine that is sprung which eases the bumps somewhat!
    2013 On One Fatty, 2011 Trek Sawyer, 2011 Kona Dr. Fine, 2012 Motobecane Jubilee 8, 1985 Schwinn Tempo, 1982 Schwinn World Sport


  9. #9
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    What are the pros and cons of a suspension seat post?
    which one, specifically ..
    well you can get a cheap one, they're out there, spring telescoping, about $25..
    some saddle wiggle ... as the required precision is past the price point.

    it will be a lot different than the Cane Creek ..

    the Thud-Buster is a parallelogram linkage, I got it because I wanted the setback increase, it afforded

    the elastomer density options offered are selected for rider weight range..

    My Bike Friday Pocket Llama has a lot more exposed seatpost length , it has their LT,
    for my Koga WTR, I got a ST, as the available length was much less..


    German Airwing it came with was OK.. they used a splined sleeve over the top plunger stroke ..

    so the saddle did not wiggle, ... but the setback was nil.

    Do they really help in paved road ride quality or are they just for off road?
    they absorb bumps , not much effect on chip-seal ..

    big hits you should use your knees and get off the saddle anyhow.

    above LT is long travel, ST, short.. about an inch ...
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-18-14 at 02:09 PM.

  10. #10
    "LOGIC!" lopek77's Avatar
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    Thudbuster suspension seat post is the only good way to go. Other than weight - its all pros. I tried many expensive and cheap suspension seat posts, and Thudbuster is the only one that really works, and don't change the distance to pedals. It also saves my back and my rear wheel. http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...6&d=1392994492
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