1911bg

Here is a pic of the kickstand.

Brooke1687

Thanks Hokiefyd. I'm going to take it in today. It did it again on my ride back up the trail and took even longer to get back into gear. I tried a bunch of different rear gears, and pedaling speeds and it finally clicked in. Note, I wasn't changing the read gears while front cassette was trying to change.

Re kickstand: I just put the same kickstand on this weekend and so far I'm happy with it. The mount made it super easy. I didn't pay that much attention to the diagram on the package and missed that it requires 2 nuts on each screw which made it very hard.

rrscott135

Yep, sounds like it may be cable stretch. I have had issues similar to what you describe with new bikes. In fact one local bike store says bring it back after 100 miles so we can adjust for the cable stretch.
Scott

good4u

Try to test it in the parking lot. I had the same problem on my DS 2 ostensibly adjusted but a short test in the parking lot showed otherwise. The LBS got it on the second try and it has been OK for several hundred miles since.

timgriffin2

I guess I can try another test ride. I took a DS2 out a couple of weeks ago and shifting to me felt clunky and noisy. I have a 10 year old 7.2FX that has better components and is very quiet and quick shifting. I told the LBS sales guy that I felt it may be out of adjustment or something because I didn't think that a new bike should feel/sound that way shifting and he looked at me like I was from another planet or something!

halter91

My bike is done and ready to be picked up, hopefully i can go grab it tomorrow morning. I can't wait!!!

redfoxdogs

Just wanted to check back in and say that I purchased a Terry Galaxy bike saddle online (the blue one with the constellation pattern) and while it isn't super soft, it does the trick. I rode 32 miles from Mequon WI to Port Washington and back and while I felt it (I don't wear padded bike shorts) I wasn't crippled afterwards!

redfoxdogs

Wanting to get some opinions on shifting, gears, etc. I've had my Neko for around a year and have a few directions that require shifting outside of the middle chainring. "Normal" for me is either right on the inside marker on the right hand or one further, so I guess this might be about 6 or 7 on a labeled mechanism. I have a few steep hills to climb that require shifting the chainring to the low/small/1 position. I'm never quite sure how to manage this correctly as these steep hills go almost from flat. I don't want to shift on the hill because of the load, but shifting just before the hill from a 2 and 6 position to a 1 and 6 seems to be the best I can manage and not have to spin like a maniac.

Wish I had someone along to help me optimize my hill shifting. Every once and a while I forget to anticipate and shift the chainring so I get stuck in the middle with the rear cog all the way to 1. Bad and insufficient.

Also I'm wondering if it's O.K. to stick with the middle and 6 or 7 for my "normal" or go to the 3rd (large) chainring and figure out what the equivalent would be. Usually I don't need the large chainring for anything, the evil hills are usually short and sharp so switching to the small one is a more frequent thing. I don't have to worry about pedaling down hills.

And I still think of these positions as the numbers on my first "speed" bike with the 1's being "easier" and the higher numbers "harder" along with "left hand shifter" or "right hand shifter" When I talk about "low, high, big, small" I really have to think because the terminology always seems backwards to me.

The suburb I grew up in was perfectly flat, so I have a good excuse....

hokiefyd 

Regarding hills, I'm in a similar situation -- it's generally fairly flat, unless the trail goes down and then up, into and out of a stream drainage area. And these can be somewhat steep. I usually downshift as I hit the hill and then let my speed slow until my cadence "picks it back up" and then I pedal up the hill in a lower gear under a load.

Brooke1687

Took the bike for its 30 day tune up and told them about the issue but didn't get a chance to ride it and test out shifting between 1, 2, and back until today and I had the same issue.
I took it in and talked to the store manager. He pointed out that the trigger requires a lot of strength and mobility to completely engage the trigger. Bingo! My fracture is healed but my hand is weak and I don't have full mobility so I'm probably not pushing hard and fast enough to get a smooth shift. He tightened the cable and I think with a little more time and practice I'll be good to go.

redfoxdogs

It's a hard push for me to get bacK to middle quickly with my weak left hand. Sometimes I use my right hand.

ColonelSanders

Are Trek going to have 2018 model DS's, or just stick with the 2017 models?

FM1178

Trek has been slow to let us know what is going on with the 2018s in certain models. You can see them on websites for bike shops but Trek is not updating their website for whatever reason.

halter91

So i'm all ready to pick up my new 2017 DS3 and boom, went to a softball game and tore my bicep. So looks like my brand new bike has to sit for 2-3 months till I'm able to ride again. Surgery scheduled for Wed, Aug 9th.

hokiefyd 

Good luck with your surgery!

Bring the bike by my house -- I'll break it in for you!

clarkbb

I recently started commuting to work by bike (only 2 miles) and thought a department store bike would do the job, as I only intended to go to work and back. However I found myself riding it in the evenings and on weekends and I quickly discovered I wanted something better. Just ordered the 2017 DS2 from my LBS- should be here in a couple days, can't wait!


Any thoughts on budget friendly upgrades that would make a difference right away?


Thanks!

Clyde1820

Initially:

• A good-quality lighting setup, front and rear.
• Presuming you're going to be commuting outside of daylight hours -- reflective stickers on the various bike stays, several good reflectors all around, and a high-visibility vest you can wear to boost your visibility to others.
• If intending to bike through all weather, a good set of full-length fenders.
• If wanting a somewhat softer ride, perhaps larger tires. Say, going from 700x38 to 700x42

Might be as much as $200 overall, for the above. Depending on the quality/brightness of lighting you get.


Or, if fine-tuning of the fitment (for comfort reasons) is more important:

• A saddle that fits you like a glove.
• Handlebars (and possibly a stem) that gets you into the perfect riding position.

JMO

clarkbb

...


Or, if fine-tuning of the fitment (for comfort reasons) is more important:

• A saddle that fits you like a glove.
• Handlebars (and possibly a stem) that gets you into the perfect riding position.

JMO[/QUOTE]


I think lighting and reflectors will be something I add later on, since it will still be daylight to and from work for a couple of months here. Also biking to work is more for fitness, not a necessity so I can drive or walk if it starts getting dark. I am more interested in things that will make my weekend rides more comfortable and enjoyable. Definitely will look into a new saddle and possibly tires after getting sone miles on the stock ones so I'll have a comparison. Thanks for the input

1911bg

My ride today was a personal best for mileage.Did 40 miles today.

Cormaac

Just ordered my first bike ever (a trek DS4). Hoping I made the right choice! Should be ready for collection soon

jase33

@Cormaac Congrats on the new bike!!

I have the DS4 and I am sure you will love it. I can tell you that the stock tires are a bit slow on pavement so if you feel that you may want to look into some tires with less rolling resistance. I put Maxxis Ramblers on and the bike flies on pavement.

Cormaac

@jase33 thanks for the advice! The only bikes i've ever ridden are my friends very heavy MTB's, so i'm sure this will feel super fast and light for me regardless

Garnone

Hello everyone, Recently Purchased a 2015 ds 8.4. Been riding the h*** out of it. Thanks to all previous posters. Have learned a lot and have enjoyed getting ideas about what to do next.

jase33

@Garnone

Congrats on the new bike!

Karmajack

Greetings DS folks.
I'm heavily considering getting a DS for my next bike. This may have to wait til spring, but I'm trying to finish all my planning stages now as I'm anxious. Before I pull the trigger, there's a few things I need to narrow down.
Is this really the ideal bike for me?
Which DS version to get? Definitely not a 1, likely a 2, maybe a 3 or 4. Are the upgrades in versions worth it to me at this point?
My backround...I've only been riding for a few months. I'm 42, 5'8", about 200lbs. My current bike is a Schwinn Connection (Walmart 700c Hybrid). I got that unsure if I'd really get into cycling. Now I'm hooked and wish for a real bike. I ride mostly paved and crushed gravel MUPS for leisure activity. Longest trip so far was 40 miles. I want to average about that or slightly less on outings. I see myself eventually doing some lite MTB trails as I hear there's some good ones nearby.
The LBS carries mainly Trek and Specialized so I figure it will be between those two brands. I've also considered the FX and Verve, but would rather have some front suspension, and something perhaps faster than the Verve. Also want something more versatile. That lead me to the DS line.
So back to my questions. Does the DS line sound right for me? Is it worth it for me (as a beginner) to look more into the DS3 or 4 over the DS2?
Thanks for any input.