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  1. #1
    Senior Member MrCrassic's Avatar
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    Just Got Started

    Hey, everyone!

    My name's Carlos, and I'm from Northern New Jersey. I have finally been (blessed enough) to fully get started with my re-kindled love for bikes. However, I am totally unexperienced.

    Somewhat out of impulse, I bought a Schwinn Ditch 1.0. I know that this isn't necessarily the mark of the classic Schwinn, but it has been doing well for me and has covered a little over 200 miles in about 2 months of ownership.

    After I realized that I actually like to bike for longer distances and on new (to me) terrains, I decided that I wanted to pursue the hobby further. But I have a lot of questions that I hope that this thread can help me with (I will still search and read around, but I am just hoping for something to get me started on).

    1. Lots of people advocate that a serious biker will shell out anything above $500-$600 for a bike, but I am wondering why this is necessary. My current bike right now comes with front disc brakes, shocks with unexposed shock absorbers, a 24-speed gearbox, and nice tires and wheels to match. It was only $300, but I am wondering whether these parts are more for the show than they are for the road. I haven't seen some of these parts in anything but much much more expensive bikes (talking way over $1000).

    2. I am also interested in doing somewhat long-distance or light mountain biking. Is this bike a good choice to stick with until I can level-up myself? Furthermore, I have been doing increasing-mile runs every weekend, which started at 30 miles, but now at 45 miles. Is this a good way to continue "training" my body for this kind of biking?

    3. I also just picked up a seemingly unused, but heavily neglected Schwinn SX-2000 (the newer ones). I want to make this my project bike and see what I can do to make it the mean performance bike (that isn't a Trek). What first steps do you experienced bikers recommend that I take? I am completely new (haven't even switched out gear railing), but very much interested.

    Thanks to anyone that can help me get my feet off the ground for this! I hope to learn a lot here!
    Ride more.

    Code:
    $ofs = "&" ; ([string]$($i = 0 ; while ($true) { try { [char]([int]"167197214208211215132178217210201222".substring($i,3) - 100) ; $i =
     $i+3 > catch { break >>)).replace('&','') ; $ofs=" " # Replace right angles with right curly braces

  2. #2
    Lanky Lass East Hill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrCrassic
    Hey, everyone!

    My name's Carlos, and I'm from Northern New Jersey. I have finally been (blessed enough) to fully get started with my re-kindled love for bikes. However, I am totally unexperienced.

    Somewhat out of impulse, I bought a Schwinn Ditch 1.0. I know that this isn't necessarily the mark of the classic Schwinn, but it has been doing well for me and has covered a little over 200 miles in about 2 months of ownership.

    After I realized that I actually like to bike for longer distances and on new (to me) terrains, I decided that I wanted to pursue the hobby further. But I have a lot of questions that I hope that this thread can help me with (I will still search and read around, but I am just hoping for something to get me started on).

    1. Lots of people advocate that a serious biker will shell out anything above $500-$600 for a bike, but I am wondering why this is necessary. My current bike right now comes with front disc brakes, shocks with unexposed shock absorbers, a 24-speed gearbox, and nice tires and wheels to match. It was only $300, but I am wondering whether these parts are more for the show than they are for the road. I haven't seen some of these parts in anything but much much more expensive bikes (talking way over $1000).
    Various explanations, but a lot of the cost has to do with weight, and upgradability of components. The material involved in making a bike, the way it's put together, the finish--all these are factors.


    2. I am also interested in doing somewhat long-distance or light mountain biking. Is this bike a good choice to stick with until I can level-up myself? Furthermore, I have been doing increasing-mile runs every weekend, which started at 30 miles, but now at 45 miles. Is this a good way to continue "training" my body for this kind of biking? Yes, this bike should be ok--just don't take it off any major cliffs or anything. Check to make certain that the bike does not say somewhere on it that 'this bike is not meant to be ridden off-road'. Yes, X-mart bikes say that, a decent MTB bike will not! Also, because this bike is apparently a full suspension bike, you will waste a lot of energy in 'pedal bob'. That's not necessarily bad for you, because it will make you MUCH stronger when you get a better bike.

    3. I also just picked up a seemingly unused, but heavily neglected Schwinn SX-2000 (the newer ones). I want to make this my project bike and see what I can do to make it the mean performance bike (that isn't a Trek). What first steps do you experienced bikers recommend that I take? I am completely new (haven't even switched out gear railing), but very much interested. I think the Schwinn is a bit low end for making into a mean performance machine. Perhaps you can check your local Craigslist for a slightly used, upper end bike.

    Thanks to anyone that can help me get my feet off the ground for this! I hope to learn a lot here!
    Did that help? Ask more questions, that's what we are here for .

    Welcome to BF!

    East Hill
    ___________________________________________________
    TRY EMPATHY & HAVE LOVE IN YOUR HEART, PERHAPS I'LL SEE YOU ON THE ROAD...

  3. #3
    Senior Member MrCrassic's Avatar
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    Thank you very much for your help!

    I would have to check with my manual for that bit of information, but I believe that it does not say that. For one, Costco is a weird place. They are unlike bigger department stores in that they will usually sell one or two different kinds of bikes and actually market them as such (not toys). I actually bought this Schwinn for near $300 (if I were aware of my options, I would have probably gotten a used Trek MTB or lower end Trek instead), which is usually not the price range of a typical "X-Mart" bike.

    However, I'm unaware of any servicing or repair options offered in store...I actually noticed that the bike had two assembly errors (that I can notice), both being minor cosmetic flaws.

    But anyway, I can see the physical improvement this bike is giving me, even if it is not entirely efficient. How would I normally be able to tell when suspension is being used?

    Thank you for the advice again!
    Ride more.

    Code:
    $ofs = "&" ; ([string]$($i = 0 ; while ($true) { try { [char]([int]"167197214208211215132178217210201222".substring($i,3) - 100) ; $i =
     $i+3 > catch { break >>)).replace('&','') ; $ofs=" " # Replace right angles with right curly braces

  4. #4
    Lanky Lass East Hill's Avatar
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    Carlos, I would expect that your bike would not have that warning on it, it was more a precautionary bit of advice. You would feel yourself 'bobbing' if it's being used. I don't know if you can 'lock' your suspension (I don't think so, though). But, for the moment it doesn't make much difference, as you are getting used to the bike, and extra effort is something you are actually encouraging. Later you may decide to upgrade and get a fork which can be locked so that it's essentially a hardtail when you're on the road.

    I will be the first to confess I don't know much about either of your bikes, though. If you have further questions you may want to see about asking in the Mountain Bike forum (remember to read the stickies first!).

    East Hill
    ___________________________________________________
    TRY EMPATHY & HAVE LOVE IN YOUR HEART, PERHAPS I'LL SEE YOU ON THE ROAD...

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    For riding distances on the road you will find it a lot more fun if you swap the fat tires for ones with 1.5" width and smooth tread. The more expensive bikes will have joints in the rear suspension that wont wear as quickly, and will have better damping in the suspension. When those joints wear there is deterioration in the handling and the gear shifting. More expensive bikes tend to have trigger shifters rather than twist grips, but twist grips are probably better for city riding.

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