Search
Notices
Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling Do you enjoy centuries, double centuries, brevets, randonnees, and 24-hour time trials? Share ride reports, and exchange training, equipment, and nutrition information specific to long distance cycling. This isn't for tours, this is for endurance events cycling

Steel frame with disc brakes vs Titanium

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-01-15, 10:07 AM
  #1  
Rhythm is rhythm
Thread Starter
 
max5480's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 1,186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Steel frame with disc brakes vs Titanium

Been riding 60-120 miles on my weekend ride and I'm getting sick of my harsh carbon frame (though I love it).

It has all Campy parts which I also love the feel of and function.

But I'd like to get a ride that smooths out some of the roughness and also accommodates a wider tire.

So, in your own opinion, which would be the better choice: swapping the frame for a high end titanium Lynksey or Moots or purchasing a complete Salsa Colossal 2 (steel) with disc brakes (also noticed the Niner RLT steel but a little more than I want to spend).

Your feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,

Max
max5480 is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 10:58 AM
  #2  
Zircon Encrusted Tweezers
 
Steamer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: high ground
Posts: 1,347
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times in 83 Posts
If the funds were available, I'd have to give this some consideration:

https://calfeedesign.com/adventure/
Steamer is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:06 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
qclabrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,373
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 70 Times in 63 Posts
those are a lot of different variables
which carbon frame are you on now?

are you limited to one bike?

your price points are very different between the Ti vs steel frames

also which wheels are you rolling on?
qclabrat is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:44 AM
  #4  
Uber Goober
 
StephenH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Dallas area, Texas
Posts: 11,758
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 190 Post(s)
Liked 41 Times in 32 Posts
You need good brakes. There's lots of threads on disk vs rim- and as best I can tell, as a disk user, there's just not a lot of reason to choose one over the other. So I wouldn't worry about that aspect at all, get the bike you like and whatever brakes it comes with ought to work.

Steel vs titanium vs carbon= can't help there at all.
__________________
"be careful this rando stuff is addictive and dan's the 'pusher'."
StephenH is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:50 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by StephenH
You need good brakes. There's lots of threads on disk vs rim- and as best I can tell, as a disk user, there's just not a lot of reason to choose one over the other. So I wouldn't worry about that aspect at all, get the bike you like and whatever brakes it comes with ought to work.

Steel vs titanium vs carbon= can't help there at all.
You mean for a person in the OP's position, not in general? Right?
cale is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:55 AM
  #6  
Uber Goober
 
StephenH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Dallas area, Texas
Posts: 11,758
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 190 Post(s)
Liked 41 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by cale
You mean for a person in the OP's position, not in general? Right?
Well, I meant in general for road usage at least. It's not like all the rim-brake users I know are crashing into trees for lack of proper brakage.
__________________
"be careful this rando stuff is addictive and dan's the 'pusher'."
StephenH is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 12:04 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by StephenH
Well, I meant in general for road usage at least. It's not like all the rim-brake users I know are crashing into trees for lack of proper brakage.
It's not going to take crashes for most riders to see the benefits of road discs.
cale is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 12:30 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rim or disc brakes won't be the reason your rim brake friends are crashing into trees. Every reasonable quality type of brake, set up properly, I have come across, has worked according to the type of situation it was designed for. Also, aren't carbon bikes supposed to have a comfortable ride (terrific road damping qualities of carbon according to this I quickly googled Why You Should be Riding Steel and not Carbon | Road Bike News, Reviews, and Photos I guess different manufacturers carbon will ride somewhat differently.

You could consider tyres that inflate to a lower psi, or a different frame geometry, if you want a more comfortable ride. You never know! Dit - you could even try stretching properly before/after your ride!
ronfinch is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 07:26 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Stow, MA
Posts: 91

Bikes: SOMA Double Cross w/ BlackSheep Ti Fork, SOMA Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Another win for the Bicycle Marketing Industrial Complex.
Originally Posted by cale
It's not going to take crashes for most riders to see the benefits of road discs.
guidoStow is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 07:31 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Stow, MA
Posts: 91

Bikes: SOMA Double Cross w/ BlackSheep Ti Fork, SOMA Grand Randonneur

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
To improve your ride quality choose a Steel or Ti frame that takes the widest possible tires. 32 minimum for 700c, 42 for 650b. Get a geometry that is comfortable for you. A Steel or Ti fork will further enhance your comfort.
guidoStow is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 07:38 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by guidoStow
Another win for the Bicycle Marketing Industrial Complex.
Sage, guidoStow, just sage.
cale is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 07:55 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Jarrett2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126

Bikes: Steel 1x's

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by max5480
I'm getting sick of my harsh carbon frame
Does not compute...
Jarrett2 is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 10:41 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
joewein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 642

Bikes: Elephant Bikes National Forest Explorer, Bike Friday Pocket Rocket

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked 230 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by max5480
But I'd like to get a ride that smooths out some of the roughness and also accommodates a wider tire.
What makes a bike ride less harsh is (in this order):
  • Wider, low-PSI tyres that smooth out a lot of the road roughness, which calls for sufficient frame and fork clearance. Lower tyre pressure can reduce energy losses from wheel bounce and from suspension effects in soft body tissue, so they're not necessarily slower.
  • A frame that is not optimized for putting down a lot of power in sprint finishes (built very stiff) but feels a bit more springy and lively instead. Oversized, shorter tubing tends to make frames stiffer. Longer and/or smaller diameter tubing with thinner walls tends to be more springy.
  • A longer head tube that makes it easier to raise your bar to offload your hands, arms and neck.
  • A more relaxed geometry with less steep seat and head tube angles.
  • Longer seat and chain stays. They will also help tyre clearances (see above).
  • Longer wheelbase (partly a consequence of the previous item)).

To summarize, ride comfort is more a function of tyre choice and bike geometry than material. If your current carbon frame rides harshly it's not because it's a carbon frame but because it's probably built stiff and runs with narrow high pressure tyres. You can build a good long distance bike from any of the common materials (chromoly steel, titanium, carbon and even aluminium). Each of these materials has its advantages. Steel and Ti tend to make for the most long-lived (and repairable) frames, while carbon is cheaper to build light (until you crash it).

I share your interest in disk brakes for my next bike. If you you end up riding in the rain like I often do on long rides or around town, it seems they can make a lot of difference. I am currently looking at the Soma Cross Check Disc frame and a few other potential candidates for a long distance ride custom build.

Last edited by joewein; 04-01-15 at 10:45 PM.
joewein is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 10:56 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
79pmooney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,905

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4806 Post(s)
Liked 3,928 Times in 2,553 Posts
Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Does not compute...
I don't get it either. But then, I have spent maybe one mile on CF on well paved parking lots so I am no judge. My bikes are steel and ti. I have observed, almost as sure a clockwork, the Cycle Oregon CF riders slowing so abruptly upon hitting chip seal that I almost have to use my brakes. And sighs of relief when the chip seal is over. Those of us riding ti or steel just look at each other and shake our heads. (I often look forward to the chip seal because it has always felt to me to have lower rolling resistance.)

Ben
79pmooney is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:02 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by 79pmooney
I don't get it either. But then, I have spent maybe one mile on CF on well paved parking lots so I am no judge. My bikes are steel and ti. I have observed, almost as sure a clockwork, the Cycle Oregon CF riders slowing so abruptly upon hitting chip seal that I almost have to use my brakes. And sighs of relief when the chip seal is over. Those of us riding ti or steel just look at each other and shake our heads. (I often look forward to the chip seal because it has always felt to me to have lower rolling resistance.)

Ben
This comment I just left after reading the exact same sort of argument you put forth....

In my line of work, this is known as a negative sale. A negative sale is one that relies on the portrayal of a rival product as poor so that it makes an alternative seem strong. The "sale" doesn't require that the individual state anything positive about their own product or preference. The hope is that the listener will be so turned off by this portrayal that the alternative suggestion, empty of any claims, is elevated to a higher standing. Sound familiar?
cale is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:15 PM
  #16  
Rhythm is rhythm
Thread Starter
 
max5480's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 1,186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
You can look at my pedal room if you want to see what bike I'm riding. I'm not a newb and know the differences between subtle changes in geometry as well as quality in materials.

I guess my question was kind of vague, but put simply; if two bikes were the same price, one titanium with campy parts, the other steel with SRAM apex and disc brakes, which would you rather ride over long distance?
max5480 is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:28 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681

Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
i just realized... my life is a "negative sale".
hueyhoolihan is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:29 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
i just realized... my life is a "negative sale".
That's good!
cale is offline  
Old 04-01-15, 11:32 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by max5480
You can look at my pedal room if you want to see what bike I'm riding. I'm not a newb and know the differences between subtle changes in geometry as well as quality in materials.

I guess my question was kind of vague, but put simply; if two bikes were the same price, one titanium with campy parts, the other steel with SRAM apex and disc brakes, which would you rather ride over long distance?
Which would you rather drive across the US, a Cadillac Escalade or a Dodge Viper? I just can't see why anyone would make such a mix of their comparison unless solely for the purpose of stirring the pot.
cale is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 05:08 AM
  #20  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
Originally Posted by max5480
... put simply; if two bikes were the same price, one titanium with campy parts, the other steel with SRAM apex and disc brakes, which would you rather ride over long distance?
Assuming the frames under consideration also have the same geometry and same tire clearance, and knowing nothing more than "titanium" and "steel" then I guess I'd go for the titanium. I don't know much about titanium but am curious about it. Steel could tempt me, depending on the specifics of the steel. The disc brakes do not tempt me; I'm sure they're fine, but... they're brakes.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 06:24 AM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
joewein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 642

Bikes: Elephant Bikes National Forest Explorer, Bike Friday Pocket Rocket

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked 230 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by max5480
I guess my question was kind of vague, but put simply; if two bikes were the same price, one titanium with campy parts, the other steel with SRAM apex and disc brakes, which would you rather ride over long distance?
I don't understand why you link reusing the existing parts to the choice of frame material: If you can swap your Campy parts from the carbon frame onto a Ti frame, why not to a steel frame? And you can get either steel or Ti frames for either type of brake. Why tie the two together in your choice?

OK, if you go for disk brakes you won't be able to re-use the Campy caliper brakes, but you could still use your existing Campy brifters with something like the Avid BB7 (mechanical) or TRP HY/RD (cable actuated hydraulic), along with cranks, derailleurs, etc.
joewein is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 06:39 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
joewein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 642

Bikes: Elephant Bikes National Forest Explorer, Bike Friday Pocket Rocket

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked 230 Times in 82 Posts
Originally Posted by rhm
Assuming the frames under consideration also have the same geometry and same tire clearance, and knowing nothing more than "titanium" and "steel" then I guess I'd go for the titanium.
In the last two years I've heard of a handful of cases amongst my friends and acquaintances of people who have had to have their Ti frames rewelded or replaced under warranty because of cracks appearing in various places. I have not heard such stories from people riding steel bikes. Ti doesn't rust, but that doesn't mean all frames will last forever.

Trouble is, for the price of a high quality factory-made Ti frame that won't suffer such problems you can get a very good custom built steel frame with perfect geometry and the best tubes for the purpose. The Ti frame may be a few hundred grams lighter but the steel frame will probably ride better for the same money.
joewein is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 08:23 AM
  #23  
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,396
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,696 Times in 2,517 Posts
steel bikes break too. I am not convinced steel and discs go together that well. The problem is the fork has to be beefed up to be anything better than marginal
unterhausen is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 09:50 AM
  #24  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
Originally Posted by unterhausen
steel bikes break too. I am not convinced steel and discs go together that well. The problem is the fork has to be beefed up to be anything better than marginal
Yeah, interesting point. Being beefed up, as you describe, might defeat the purpose of having a steel fork.

Since I joined Bike Forums I have seen countless posts in which riders compared the ride qualities of frames. Steel frames, mostly; 531 of various kinds, Columbus of various kinds, and so on. At first these posts made no sense to me at all. I gradually began to realize that the guys writing these posts all weigh well over 200 lbs. Few guys my weight (165) have much to say about frame flex. The few that do are the ones who have sought out frames made from especially thin walled tubing. Not long ago @southpawboston (I think it was him, anyway) bought such a frame and found the fork on it too beefy, and had a lighter fork made.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 04-02-15, 10:10 AM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
cale's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,248

Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by rhm
Yeah, interesting point. Being beefed up, as you describe, might defeat the purpose of having a steel fork.
Guys your weight don't have to worry much about stiffness, or compliance for that matter, because your weight isn't sending that same shock waves through the frame as ours is. You ride lighter, hence you ride more comfortably.


Good for you. (with sincerity, please.)
cale is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.