Compact Doubles - Feh
#26
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I have found that a setup with 50/38 and a 13-26 10 speed cassette works wonders.
I will be using this set up in RAAM next month.
I will be using this set up in RAAM next month.
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Tibikefor2
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#27
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In response to my own question above about where to get a 29/44 tooth double crankset, I found the 'Stronglight Oxale Two'. See the manufacturer's page here, it is for sale here and here for about US$160, it got a very positive review from bikeradar.com, and it needs an ISIS bottom bracket.
The only problem with this crankset is that it is officially made for a 9-speed chain. I assume that it wouldn't be a problem running a 10-speed chain on it, but does anyone have an opinion/info/experience regarding this?
Lastly, which front derailleur do other people who have similar size chainrings use? I'm open to anything from any manufacturer because I use a downtube shifter for the front derailleur.
The only problem with this crankset is that it is officially made for a 9-speed chain. I assume that it wouldn't be a problem running a 10-speed chain on it, but does anyone have an opinion/info/experience regarding this?
Lastly, which front derailleur do other people who have similar size chainrings use? I'm open to anything from any manufacturer because I use a downtube shifter for the front derailleur.
#28
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In response to my own question above about where to get a 29/44 tooth double crankset, I found the 'Stronglight Oxale Two'. See the manufacturer's page here, it is for sale here and here for about US$160, it got a very positive review from bikeradar.com, and it needs an ISIS bottom bracket.
The only problem with this crankset is that it is officially made for a 9-speed chain. I assume that it wouldn't be a problem running a 10-speed chain on it, but does anyone have an opinion/info/experience regarding this?
Lastly, which front derailleur do other people who have similar size chainrings use? I'm open to anything from any manufacturer because I use a downtube shifter for the front derailleur.
The only problem with this crankset is that it is officially made for a 9-speed chain. I assume that it wouldn't be a problem running a 10-speed chain on it, but does anyone have an opinion/info/experience regarding this?
Lastly, which front derailleur do other people who have similar size chainrings use? I'm open to anything from any manufacturer because I use a downtube shifter for the front derailleur.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Is there any reason Shimano/FSA/SRAM compacts cannot be set up like this by swapping chain rings? I guess there could be an issue with the small ring clearing the chainstay depending on the frame and the "q".
#30
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The smallest ring on a 'typical' compact is usually a 34 or 33, due to the diameter of the bolts which hold the rings to the spider / cranks.
#31
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2x9 options
Rotor Cranks (www.rotorbike.com) has just released a new 2x9 crankset with their Q-Rings that fits your described needs. They say it works best with an MTB FD, and is available in a 40/27 configuration. More expensive than the Stronglight Oxale Two, but lightweight, adjustable chainline and with the added benefits of the Q-Rings.
This link takes you to the Spanish site, so switch to English (Upper Left) and then look in the Products area under the MTB components. It will be listed as 2x9 under the Cranks section.
This link takes you to the Spanish site, so switch to English (Upper Left) and then look in the Products area under the MTB components. It will be listed as 2x9 under the Cranks section.
#32
Likes to Ride Far
Thanks for the info on Rotor Cranks. The 74 and 110 BCD is a very good combination, and would allow me to run my current favorite configuration which is 28-46 chainrings (paired with an 11-26 cassette) for road riding that includes a lot of mountain passes. I still have a few questions about this crankset from Rotor, including chainline, but I'm planning to go to Eurobike in a couple of weeks, and it sounds like these guys will be there so I'll visit them then.
#33
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Why not just train so that you can make it up the mtn on a standard double?
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Well, some of us just fail at cycling no matter what.
You could just run a triple crank with the 2 chainrings of your choice. That way you have the option of running a smaller inner ring.
You could just run a triple crank with the 2 chainrings of your choice. That way you have the option of running a smaller inner ring.
#36
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I just might! Afterall, I'm not the one here looking for a false sense of climbing ability!...I use the gears equipped on my bike. I'm a big fat 220-240 lb rider but I use the 39/25 on 10,000-12,000 ft centuries. I don't to invest in sissy gears to make it up a hill!
The better and more I train, the easier they are and the faster I climb. When I stuff my face with too many containers of Ben and Jerry ice cream, it's more of a struggle. But I don't run out and spend money to make myself think I'm a better climber!
#37
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I spent a lot of years training, back when my life revolved around a finish line and a prize list.
I see no reason to "train" anymore. I prefer just to enjoy riding my bike. And I'm sure not under the impression that granny gears make me a better climber. They just make it more fun.
Sorry if that upsets you.
I see no reason to "train" anymore. I prefer just to enjoy riding my bike. And I'm sure not under the impression that granny gears make me a better climber. They just make it more fun.
Sorry if that upsets you.
#38
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Much of this discussion examines the specific solutions to specific, but undescribed, areas. I tend to look at the needs and then find what fits with the least hassle. So far, that hasn't worked. Where I need REALLY low gears, I have a triple. Normally I'm riding a compact, and realizing I don't need it, except when I do.
I'm looking at my usual rides, which generally include a brief stretch of 25% while I'm dead cold and not warmed up. That may include extended stretches of greater than 15% depending on route, or longer climbs of 7% average, reaching 10% for substantial sections. But also include long gentle descents allowing lots of speed. And relatively little flat. But some good long sections of lightly rolling.
Add in a slightly iffy knee that sometimes requires pampering.
There's no "right" solution to that. Warmed up with my knee working well, I'm climbing in a 34/21 and should be on a standard double. Warmed up with my knee acting up and our normal hills, 34/25 will get me up anything. So the compact is useful. Even warmed up and with my knee doing well, the 34/27 is helpful. Anything below that felt too low, not really efficient. But most days I could do just fine on a 39/25 - and I have one old bike set up that way. I used to do the mountains on it without any problem, and I probably still could.
On the top end, my triple rig commuter goes to 52/12 - and I like it. Especially the 42/52. Very very nice. but I hate shifting a triple all the time! I do spin out my 50/12 regularly.
And the compact has the chainline problems. That gap between the rings. It's great when I'm in the up and down territory, but for gently rolling it has me cross chaining constantly, and rarely happy where I am.
I know the cross chaining isn't supposed to hurt, but I tear up chains faster on my compact system than I ever have before.
So I'm mulling over returning to 39/53 with 12/27 and putting my compact on something else. Maybe on eBay! Or just keeping it in reserve.
The triples - I immediately notice the wide Q. Lots of triple riding gradually squeeks a little pain here or there. The double is bad enough! I'd really prefer a very narrow Q.
If I lived on the coast, I'd be considering an 8 speed internal for commuting and a single for regular use, with a cog suite in a saddlebag (I've lived that way before). If I really lived in the mountains, I'd probably be running a triple. If I really lived in lightly rolling terrain I'd be running a standard double, probably 39/53 with 12-23. Living here, who knows what will really work? At least the compact is great for 50% of the time!!!
Commuter. Tandems.
I'm looking at my usual rides, which generally include a brief stretch of 25% while I'm dead cold and not warmed up. That may include extended stretches of greater than 15% depending on route, or longer climbs of 7% average, reaching 10% for substantial sections. But also include long gentle descents allowing lots of speed. And relatively little flat. But some good long sections of lightly rolling.
Add in a slightly iffy knee that sometimes requires pampering.
There's no "right" solution to that. Warmed up with my knee working well, I'm climbing in a 34/21 and should be on a standard double. Warmed up with my knee acting up and our normal hills, 34/25 will get me up anything. So the compact is useful. Even warmed up and with my knee doing well, the 34/27 is helpful. Anything below that felt too low, not really efficient. But most days I could do just fine on a 39/25 - and I have one old bike set up that way. I used to do the mountains on it without any problem, and I probably still could.
On the top end, my triple rig commuter goes to 52/12 - and I like it. Especially the 42/52. Very very nice. but I hate shifting a triple all the time! I do spin out my 50/12 regularly.
And the compact has the chainline problems. That gap between the rings. It's great when I'm in the up and down territory, but for gently rolling it has me cross chaining constantly, and rarely happy where I am.
I know the cross chaining isn't supposed to hurt, but I tear up chains faster on my compact system than I ever have before.
So I'm mulling over returning to 39/53 with 12/27 and putting my compact on something else. Maybe on eBay! Or just keeping it in reserve.
The triples - I immediately notice the wide Q. Lots of triple riding gradually squeeks a little pain here or there. The double is bad enough! I'd really prefer a very narrow Q.
If I lived on the coast, I'd be considering an 8 speed internal for commuting and a single for regular use, with a cog suite in a saddlebag (I've lived that way before). If I really lived in the mountains, I'd probably be running a triple. If I really lived in lightly rolling terrain I'd be running a standard double, probably 39/53 with 12-23. Living here, who knows what will really work? At least the compact is great for 50% of the time!!!
Commuter. Tandems.
#39
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A 1200k? Maybe BMB?
Ever think that maybe 53x11 is overkill for the specific type of riding some folks here in LD do?
Want a bike that you can ride with the club once a week but throw a bag and sleeping pad on over the weekend?
Want to spin up the climbs, where the best increases in performance / time will come - and recover on the downhills (because you are not racing to catch the yellow jersey) - as the more energy you put in after a certain speed starts giving you diminishing returns on your investment due to the exponential amount of energy needed to beat air resistance?
Ever think that there might be more than 1 way to set up a bike?
Ever think that maybe people here do train, but tune their gear to their events and riding style?
(and good for you, btw, turning that big gear up the hill! i'm impressed!)
#40
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I just might! Afterall, I'm not the one here looking for a false sense of climbing ability!...I use the gears equipped on my bike. I'm a big fat 220-240 lb rider but I use the 39/25 on 10,000-12,000 ft centuries. I don't to invest in sissy gears to make it up a hill!
The better and more I train, the easier they are and the faster I climb. When I stuff my face with too many containers of Ben and Jerry ice cream, it's more of a struggle. But I don't run out and spend money to make myself think I'm a better climber!
The better and more I train, the easier they are and the faster I climb. When I stuff my face with too many containers of Ben and Jerry ice cream, it's more of a struggle. But I don't run out and spend money to make myself think I'm a better climber!
For the most part folks make pretty insightful and helpful comments in this forum, unlike most other places on BF.
Last edited by bmike; 08-26-08 at 08:04 AM.
#41
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'sissy gears' -
wasn't that the top tube shifter on a Stingray?
People need to find what they like, and go with it. I'm very happy with a 50-34 in the pacific northwest.
The attitude of just being 'trained' to be 'tough enough' to ride a standard is chestbeating. I ride many thou, and I wanted to enjoy my riding more with slightly lower gearing.
wasn't that the top tube shifter on a Stingray?
People need to find what they like, and go with it. I'm very happy with a 50-34 in the pacific northwest.
The attitude of just being 'trained' to be 'tough enough' to ride a standard is chestbeating. I ride many thou, and I wanted to enjoy my riding more with slightly lower gearing.
#42
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After riding the Summits of Bothell on Sunday, and prepping for the SiR Mountain unPopulaire (~110km, 5480' gain, start and finish on 700'+ climbs with 15% sections) in a couple weeks, I'm really thankful for my sissy gears.
I run a 34/48 up front and an 11-32 cassette. While the 39/25 crowd was standing up and struggling with Bloomberg and Norway hills (18% and 16% grades) I was able to stay seated and (slowly) spinning away.
I run a 34/48 up front and an 11-32 cassette. While the 39/25 crowd was standing up and struggling with Bloomberg and Norway hills (18% and 16% grades) I was able to stay seated and (slowly) spinning away.
#43
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So, I'm riding behind my bud who's on his new 50/36 carbon bike, and I notice he's spending much of the time in the largest cogs on the cassette. I point this out, he shifts to the smaller ring, and then he's spending much of the time in the smallest cogs on the cassette.
A compact chain-set doesn't create chain-lines, nor select gear ratios - frames, BBs and cassettes are the contributing factors of resultant chain-line or gear ratio selections. Perhaps you could argue that compact chain-sets require multiple cassettes for optimal chain-lines in differing situations.
#44
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#46
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Check out this crankset:
https://whiteind.com/cranks/roadcranks.html
Narrow tread and can handle a small inner gear... It's bloody expensive though.
From Speedgoat's prices: $200 for the arms + $50/$58 for the inner and outer rings respectively.
It's so brilliant though, it's silly.
https://whiteind.com/cranks/roadcranks.html
Narrow tread and can handle a small inner gear... It's bloody expensive though.
From Speedgoat's prices: $200 for the arms + $50/$58 for the inner and outer rings respectively.
It's so brilliant though, it's silly.
#47
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I'm looking at the Ultegra compact right now because I've found a good deal for it ($180). Granted you can't put anything smaller than 50 on it but it is also hard to beat the price. I love the idea of bmike's set up but it's hefty price tag.