LHT setup recommendations for unloaded distance riding
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LHT setup recommendations for unloaded distance riding
I'm looking for suggestions to get into longer distance riding.
I have a 26" LHT that I have been using for commuting, 12 miles RT, year round 4-5 days per week.
I am looking to extend my mileage and do Seattle to Portland (200mi in 2 days) next summer. I routinely run errands after work, so one 6 mile commute turns into a 15-18 mile commute each week. I know that this base mileage is of little value for anything other than working out major fit issues.
I have the bike dialed in for comfort for my current riding style. I have a B17 with the Selle Anatomica cut-out, and Nitto Noodle bars. Both work very well for me, and I am happy with them. Because it is my commuter, I have flat pedals, and I am not unhappy with them, but I know they are not the best choice for centuries. I am full fendered, and have a Tubus Cargo rear rack.
My questions are primarily around tires and bags, and possibly pedals and training. What tires would/should a rando run for 26" wheels? I have two sets I currently run. I have Conti top contacts (50mm, 860g) and Marathon winters (1.75", 1050g). Obviously, neither of these is ideal for long distance, unloaded rides. I have a second set of wheels that is a bit lighter than the stock LHT wheels, and am looking for a faster tire that is still somewhat durable.
For bags, I am looking at either a front bag (remove rack) or a trunk rack. Arkel small HB bag looks like my current favorite and convenient for eating, cue sheets, etc.
Your opinions, suggestions, and snide remarks are welcome.
I have a 26" LHT that I have been using for commuting, 12 miles RT, year round 4-5 days per week.
I am looking to extend my mileage and do Seattle to Portland (200mi in 2 days) next summer. I routinely run errands after work, so one 6 mile commute turns into a 15-18 mile commute each week. I know that this base mileage is of little value for anything other than working out major fit issues.
I have the bike dialed in for comfort for my current riding style. I have a B17 with the Selle Anatomica cut-out, and Nitto Noodle bars. Both work very well for me, and I am happy with them. Because it is my commuter, I have flat pedals, and I am not unhappy with them, but I know they are not the best choice for centuries. I am full fendered, and have a Tubus Cargo rear rack.
My questions are primarily around tires and bags, and possibly pedals and training. What tires would/should a rando run for 26" wheels? I have two sets I currently run. I have Conti top contacts (50mm, 860g) and Marathon winters (1.75", 1050g). Obviously, neither of these is ideal for long distance, unloaded rides. I have a second set of wheels that is a bit lighter than the stock LHT wheels, and am looking for a faster tire that is still somewhat durable.
For bags, I am looking at either a front bag (remove rack) or a trunk rack. Arkel small HB bag looks like my current favorite and convenient for eating, cue sheets, etc.
Your opinions, suggestions, and snide remarks are welcome.
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I think you have a good bike for riding longer distances without changing a thing. Just get out there and ride.
Is it perfect? Nah. As you already know foot retention and lighter tires would be good, but neither are a requirement right away. As you start riding longer distances it will become obvious to you what other changes you'll want to make. People will tell you you gotta have this and you gotta have that, but the fact is that all you gotta have is a bike. The fact that it's already comfortable for you is a huge plus. I'll say it again: Just get out there and ride.
Is it perfect? Nah. As you already know foot retention and lighter tires would be good, but neither are a requirement right away. As you start riding longer distances it will become obvious to you what other changes you'll want to make. People will tell you you gotta have this and you gotta have that, but the fact is that all you gotta have is a bike. The fact that it's already comfortable for you is a huge plus. I'll say it again: Just get out there and ride.
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Add Rear panniers, a bar bag and some longer rides is all you need.
Eat and drink as you ride to keep your energy level up.
Most of all have fun with your riding.
Eat and drink as you ride to keep your energy level up.
Most of all have fun with your riding.
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From a training standpoint, I don't NEED to change anything on the bike. Any other suggestions for training? Would increasing daily base mileage do me any good, or should I concentrate on riding one long ride per week?
Any body have a favorite 26" "fast" tire?
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I would say do some long rides.
Your energy level and other things will show up at 40, 60, 80 miles.
Your energy level and other things will show up at 40, 60, 80 miles.
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#6
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I find clipless pedals to be advantageous, but it's not an immediate effect when you get them. So if you're going to get them, get them a good while beforehand.
Since you already have a rear rack, put a bag on it. I've done that, and on longer rides, also normally use a $10 Bell-brand handlebar bag. And I've got a cue-sheet holder that came from REI that works pretty well (they may sell it as a map holder).
Unless you're riding through a blizzard or have a 60 mile gap with no water or food or something, you don't need panniers on a 200k.
Since you already have a rear rack, put a bag on it. I've done that, and on longer rides, also normally use a $10 Bell-brand handlebar bag. And I've got a cue-sheet holder that came from REI that works pretty well (they may sell it as a map holder).
Unless you're riding through a blizzard or have a 60 mile gap with no water or food or something, you don't need panniers on a 200k.
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I find clipless pedals to be advantageous, but it's not an immediate effect when you get them. So if you're going to get them, get them a good while beforehand.
Since you already have a rear rack, put a bag on it. I've done that, and on longer rides, also normally use a $10 Bell-brand handlebar bag. And I've got a cue-sheet holder that came from REI that works pretty well (they may sell it as a map holder).
Unless you're riding through a blizzard or have a 60 mile gap with no water or food or something, you don't need panniers on a 200k.
Since you already have a rear rack, put a bag on it. I've done that, and on longer rides, also normally use a $10 Bell-brand handlebar bag. And I've got a cue-sheet holder that came from REI that works pretty well (they may sell it as a map holder).
Unless you're riding through a blizzard or have a 60 mile gap with no water or food or something, you don't need panniers on a 200k.
I appreciate the advice regarding the pedals. The reason I'm asking now is so I can decide if I need to make the changes ahead of time. I'm not big on making significant changes right before a big event. This applies to cycling as well as other endeavors.
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Just a note on the Arkel bar bag: the small is not so small, and the large is huge. Check the dimensions carefully; you might not need something that big. Loose items tend to rattle around in it due to the size, and the semi-rigid construction. I recently switched to a smaller Banjo Bros. bag and it works just as well.
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if its dependable and comfortable bike you should be good to ride. try starting with a 60 miler. For me its a happy medium between a short and a long ride. I did a 200k and i only needed the 3 pockets on my jearsy, and my small saddle pouch.
pocket one had my cell, the singnature sheet, the route
pocket 2 carried a sneakers and a cliff bar
pocket 3 had a sandwich
saddle pouch (tube, co2, co2 pump, paddles, cash)
for the 300k im planning on adding a bento box pouch, for easier food handling.
pocket one had my cell, the singnature sheet, the route
pocket 2 carried a sneakers and a cliff bar
pocket 3 had a sandwich
saddle pouch (tube, co2, co2 pump, paddles, cash)
for the 300k im planning on adding a bento box pouch, for easier food handling.
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on 1 stop i had another sandwich and a banana, on another a turn over, energy gel, on another a cookie..plus all the water that I didn't mention...
should probably eat more...i mainly wanted to say, you dont need to buy a lot of extras to start (when you have a dependable and comfortable bike), most riders IMO just need to be creative with watever they have + stoping on local shops.
note: by no means do i want to sound like ive completed the series. I do ussualy ride between 70 and 100 miles every weekend, and have completed my first 200km recently so im sort of a newb. A roadie convert to Randonee
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I did a 200k and i only needed the 3 pockets on my jearsy, and my small saddle pouch.
Just a note on the Arkel bar bag: the small is not so small, and the large is huge. Check the dimensions carefully; you might not need something that big.
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your making it sound like your not gonna wear cycling specific clothing for long distance. i agree the bag is overall easier and practical, but that has nothing to do with the jersey, its more an economical situation.
When i started road cycling, i only bought padded shorts and used t-shirts....for my first 4 rides i was fine...but then we started going faster and farther, and all of the sudden i felt some pinches on my nipples!!! my t-shirt rubbed so much it hurt! happened like 3 times...so i bought a jersey...what a freaking difference man...
i would totally spend 100 bucks on good pants and 100 bucks on a nice jersey, because they affect directly my comfort on a long ride.
can you post a pic of your bike?
When i started road cycling, i only bought padded shorts and used t-shirts....for my first 4 rides i was fine...but then we started going faster and farther, and all of the sudden i felt some pinches on my nipples!!! my t-shirt rubbed so much it hurt! happened like 3 times...so i bought a jersey...what a freaking difference man...
i would totally spend 100 bucks on good pants and 100 bucks on a nice jersey, because they affect directly my comfort on a long ride.
can you post a pic of your bike?
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your making it sound like your not gonna wear cycling specific clothing for long distance. i agree the bag is overall easier and practical, but that has nothing to do with the jersey, its more an economical situation.
When i started road cycling, i only bought padded shorts and used t-shirts....for my first 4 rides i was fine...but then we started going faster and farther, and all of the sudden i felt some pinches on my nipples!!! my t-shirt rubbed so much it hurt! happened like 3 times...so i bought a jersey...what a freaking difference man...
i would totally spend 100 bucks on good pants and 100 bucks on a nice jersey, because they affect directly my comfort on a long ride.
can you post a pic of your bike?
When i started road cycling, i only bought padded shorts and used t-shirts....for my first 4 rides i was fine...but then we started going faster and farther, and all of the sudden i felt some pinches on my nipples!!! my t-shirt rubbed so much it hurt! happened like 3 times...so i bought a jersey...what a freaking difference man...
i would totally spend 100 bucks on good pants and 100 bucks on a nice jersey, because they affect directly my comfort on a long ride.
can you post a pic of your bike?
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I, too, don't much care to carry stuff in my jersey pockets, maybe a small towel for wiping sweat or a gel or two.
I really love my Acorn Handlebar Bag, not too big, even fits between the bar and the cables for my brifters. Rear facing pockets allow for easy access to food on the go.
Since you've got lowrider mounts on your fork, I'd suggest the Paul Components Gino mount to move your light when using a bar mounted bag.
You don't need to spend a ton on jerseys, my cheapie Nashbar/Performance jerseys are just as comfortable as my pricier gear.
I've done centuries on heavyish commuting tires, so it can be done.
I really love my Acorn Handlebar Bag, not too big, even fits between the bar and the cables for my brifters. Rear facing pockets allow for easy access to food on the go.
Since you've got lowrider mounts on your fork, I'd suggest the Paul Components Gino mount to move your light when using a bar mounted bag.
You don't need to spend a ton on jerseys, my cheapie Nashbar/Performance jerseys are just as comfortable as my pricier gear.
I've done centuries on heavyish commuting tires, so it can be done.
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The best low cost 26" tire I've found is the Specialized Fatboy. They just fly and are comfy. Inflate so you get 15% of the measured width in vertical drop when sitting static on the bike. I put a set on my GF's commuter and she has notice a significant speed increase and won't give them back. In fact she has just about worn out the rear so I'm going to buy her two more. I paid $26 cdn each at my LBS.
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The best low cost 26" tire I've found is the Specialized Fatboy. They just fly and are comfy. Inflate so you get 15% of the measured width in vertical drop when sitting static on the bike. I put a set on my GF's commuter and she has notice a significant speed increase and won't give them back. In fact she has just about worn out the rear so I'm going to buy her two more. I paid $26 cdn each at my LBS.
I use the 15% tire drop formula on my current commuter. I agree that I don't notice a drop in speed and am very comfy.
How do you like the PNW?
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Not sure about comparison to the Fat Boy, but I use the Pasela TG (700 x 32) on my brevet bike and I love them. They'll handle anything from asphalt to chip seal to grass to loose gravel.
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Sorry I can't give you a comparison. I bought the Fatboys as a stop gap between other tires since they were cheap, but I was totally blown away by how they perform. The price and performance is hard to beat. My GF runs them now and we'll be getting her a second set shortly.
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