Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling Do you enjoy centuries, double centuries, brevets, randonnees, and 24-hour time trials? Share ride reports, and exchange training, equipment, and nutrition information specific to long distance cycling. This isn't for tours, this is for endurance events cycling

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-24-13, 11:59 AM   #26
rhm
multimodal commuter
Thread Starter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Posts: 16,101
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 234 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by noteon View Post
It probably varies some with leather stiffness and rider weight. Still, at the very least, I do think it's much exaggerated.
Yes, I agree with that. More to the point, I think a lot of the people who talk about it don't know what they're talking about. In particular I have grave misgivings about all the talk of doing anything to a saddle to hasten the process.
rhm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-13, 12:03 PM   #27
Yo Spiff 
Carpe Velo
 
Yo Spiff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Trek 900, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '92 Schwinn Crosscut, '03 Diamondback Tandem, '94 Yokota Grizzly Peak
Posts: 2,514
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
On a group ride yesterday, I was inquiring to someone else about some fancy scrollwork she'd had done to her B17. She mentioned that the saddle has not softened up as she expected since she bought it last May. I went and gave a few pushes on it with my thumb and it felt pretty similar to my own B17 that I also bought last summer. I explained to her that is just how they feel. They conform to your butt, but never get cushy soft. My 13 year old Team Pro only has slightly more give to the leather.

I did buy a B67s for my wife, and that has a bit of cush and give when brand new, but it is also by design.
__________________
2000 Bianchi Veloce, 199x Bianchi Volpe, 199x Bianchi Boardwalk, 2010 Bianchi Milano, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, 198x Benotto Triathlon. '88 Schwinn Crosscut
Yo Spiff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-13, 01:11 PM   #28
noteon 
Drops small screws
 
noteon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NYC
Bikes: Heavily modified Xootr Swift, Trek 1000SL that's been turned into a brevet bike, two 20" Torker Interurbans
Posts: 2,600
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Without having asked around a lot, so this is just a guess:

I suspect people used to modern saddles will initially level them the same way, which (for me, anyway) doesn't work. I'd also guess the setback limit has some butts riding too close to (or even on) the rear rim of the metal frame.
__________________
RIDE: Short fiction about bicycles • RUSA #5538
Learning to wrench better this year—current project: Fixie from build kit
noteon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-13, 12:17 PM   #29
rhm
multimodal commuter
Thread Starter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Posts: 16,101
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 234 Post(s)
All the remarks about setback have me wondering about frame geometry.

Those of you who have complained about the Brooks saddle rails, are you riding pretty modern bikes? I have no setback problems with my old Brooks saddles, but I'm riding bikes that date back to the days when frames had more relaxed angles. In fact on two of my bikes, English frames from the 40's, the seat tube angle is so slack that I have to mount the saddle in front of the seat post-- otherwise there is too much setback.

Bicycle frames have changed quite a bit more in the last fifty years than Brooks saddle frames have.
rhm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-13, 10:19 PM   #30
ThermionicScott 
Gratuitous glib and snark
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)
Posts: 14,101
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Yeah, it's kind of unfathomable that Brooks has altered the shape of the B17 several times over the years, but didn't bother to tweak the rails when seat tubes got steeper. I mean, come on, moving the bend forward wouldn't gotten in the way of mounting it on older bikes!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-13, 11:19 AM   #31
Hangtownmatt
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 400
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhm View Post
Recently another forum member and I decided to try to collaborate and come up with a new design leather saddle. Basically it would be a compromise between popular shapes of modern saddles and the traditional materials of a century old Brooks etc. He will do the metal work, I will do the leather.

snip

I would appreciate any serious suggestions, observations, etc. Especially from you guys who spend a lot of time on your saddles.
I'd like to see a non-suspended leather saddle along the lines of a Specialized Romin, Avatar, etc. This would provide all the advantages of a modern saddle with the look of a classic.

Matt
Hangtownmatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-13, 03:02 PM   #32
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 22,093
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1113 Post(s)
One of the Selle Anatomica's developers, a day's ride was 200 miles ,
like Fairfield to Santa Rosa, Cal, for example..

Died on a Bike ride . Pump gave out, Ticker stopped Ticking..

we had some communicatiobns back in the early release days..
since I was raised in that Nor Cal area..

Last edited by fietsbob; 02-10-13 at 03:06 PM.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-13, 08:08 AM   #33
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes:
Posts: 12,421
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Yes, Tom Miller (RIP).
Road Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-13, 09:46 AM   #34
Gravity Aided
Senior Member
 
Gravity Aided's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Bikes: Trek 600 Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Impact, LaPierre TDF
Posts: 2,580
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
2 designs may be good from a marketing standpoint. One with a wider, flatter back that is sprung, for tour and other more upright riders, and one that is narrower for the racing saddle crowd who ride more in a tuck position on the drops, or just prefer that saddle fit .
Gravity Aided is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-13, 10:38 PM   #35
LucF
Senior Member
 
LucF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montreal, Canada
Bikes: Cervélo R3, Trek Wahoo
Posts: 94
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
1. A good saddle for me is one that fits (me) and has a standard build (so I can attach generic equipment to it).
2. My B17N fits me perfectly, but I would do without the rear holes for straps.
3. No.
4. I like short but have been comfortable on saddles with 1 in. variations in length.
5. Width is very important. Fundamental to fit.
6. Weight is not as important as comfort, but it is important (in the long distance rider's perspective). I wouldn't like my saddle to weigh for aesthetic reasons.
7. Never tried them but they look useful.
LucF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-13, 05:34 AM   #36
chasm54
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Bikes:
Posts: 8,657
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Difficult to answer what seems a simple question. What makes a good saddle good? Warning - this may get lengthy.

I'm a long-time Brooks user. I have a B17 on my touring bike, and a Swift on one of my road bikes. Both excellent, when I come to buy another saddle it will almost certainly be a Brooks Swift or Swallow. They do break in, but in my experience they are pretty comfortable out of the box and the change in shape is quite modest.

I have experimented with a number of other saddles, including some with perineal cut-outs. In this category were the Specialized Toupe and Phenom saddles. The Toupe cut me to pieces, the only saddle I have used that gave me saddle sores. The phenom was much less horrible, but still unacceptable. For some reason both these saddles left me with tenderness above the sitbones.

The Fizik Aliante, by contrast, is almost as comfortable as my Brooks Swift. And the stock saddle that came with a Giant SCR a few years ago (branded as Giant, but I have no idea whether they make it or buy it in) was another that has been problem-free.

So to answer your question I've thought about the differences beyween the Aliante and the stock giant saddle, on the one hand, and the two specialized offerings on the other. I think it something to with the rate at which the saddle falls away from from the flattish area on which one sits. The specialized saddles stay flattish, then terminate pretty sharply. The ones I like seem to curve away more gradually. My guess is that when shifting around on the saddle, as one inevitable does in the course of a long ride, the more gradual curves are more forgiving if for example, one finds oneself a few millimetres forward of one's usual position.

Another related possibility is that the broken-in Brooks, having conformed somewhat to your shape, holds you in position better and therefore prevents you getting into inappropriate positions that might cause issues. Plus, they too tend to curve away more gradully than the specializeds.

I don't know if this helps you in the slightest, but it has made me think in rather more detail han before about what suits me and why, so thanks.
chasm54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-13, 04:35 PM   #37
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes:
Posts: 12,421
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhm View Post
I believe in leather saddles, and recycling, and craftsmanship. So last year I started recovering old leather saddles and have done about 33 so far (see this thread if interested).

Recently another forum member and I decided to try to collaborate and come up with a new design leather saddle. Basically it would be a compromise between popular shapes of modern saddles and the traditional materials of a century old Brooks etc. He will do the metal work, I will do the leather.

So my question for you guys (both the ladies and the gentlemen), is this: what makes a good saddle a good saddle? H ave you ever had a saddle that was perfect except for maybe one thing that you couldn't fix (and what was it)? Have you ever wished you could get a saddle with some feature or other that was not available? To what degree does length matter? Or width? Or weight? How about a perinneal cutout?

I would appreciate any serious suggestions, observations, etc. Especially from you guys who spend a lot of time on your saddles.
RHM and FTW:

What I've been thinking about is a tensioned leather saddle with a lightweight structure - Ti or CrMo tubular rails with very generous straight sections, like the tubes from a Toupe (Ti) or an Alias (tubular CrMo), with a composite or plastic cantle such as on in teh Berthoud design. I like both a B17 and a Selle AnAtomica, so I don't know exactly what I'd like as far as shape. The Specializeds I've used show me that I like a flat top profile, a cutout, a non-compliant surface (both Alias and Toupe are too squishy), and a very narrow saddle from say the 50% point up to the nose.

Here the Toupe 143 would be a pretty decent model for the narrowness I would want. I find the S-A sideskirts can't be "pulled in" far enough for me without full-range bolt tensioning, and that results in a very hard support for my ischials. Not sure if the saddle top will last with that setup. I tried lacing one to narrow it, but the lace tension rotated the leather so that my body became exposed to the cutout edges - ouch!

Honestly I don't recall if the B-17 sideskirts are comfortable for me, since Mrs. Road Fan took over my B-17 from me.

I think replacing the solid steel of an S-A with lightweight stuff could save a pound, leaving us to devise a strategy to reduce the weight of the leather top. I would not want to thin it due to durability concerns, but perhaps some high-tensile strength fabric can be engineered to have similar elasticity to the leather of an S-A top or a Brooks, or (like a Lepper) have leather inserts added at strategic locations on the tensioned saddle top.

So this is kind of an anecdotal description of what I'd be interested in.
Road Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-13, 04:40 PM   #38
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes:
Posts: 12,421
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ftwelder View Post
I noticed the B-17 has a flatter cantle plate than a lot of saddles when viewed from the back. It seems like people prefer to sit just forward of the cantle plate where on a typical road saddle one would sit on the cantle plate.
To me the desire to sit on the cantle is just a symptom of the saddle/bike/seatpost system not meeting the requirements of enabling the rider to balance himself based on proper rear end placement, such as described in Peter White's essay on fitting the bike to the rider.
Road Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-13, 08:55 AM   #39
FrenchFit 
The Left Coast, USA
 
FrenchFit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 3,104
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Although I own a few, (and sold a few Pros on eBay), my issue with Brooks saddles is their nose. It's very prominent and involves too much interaction with the package in a rotated position. The hammock effect of the Selle An Atomica is even worse in this respect. So, riding in the drops can be a punishing experience, even rotated down in a hoods position is a close call. The old racing saddles I use sort of roll off at the nose, and were shorter = more room for the package when rotated forward. Otherwise, the setback on the Pro is ridiculous, and the B17 is not that much better.


My break-in on black Brooks saddles has been fairly fast, but not so with a honey B17. It tooks years for that saddle to feel right; what's true for one isn't true for all.
FrenchFit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-13, 01:02 PM   #40
photogravity 
Hopelessly addicted...
 
photogravity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Maryland
Bikes: 1949 Hercules Kestrel, 1950 Norman Rapide, 1970 Schwinn Collegiate, 1972 Peugeot UE-8, 1976 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Jack Taylor Tandem, 1984 Davidson Tandem, 2010 Bilenky "BQ" 650B Constructeur Tandem, 2011 Linus Mixte
Posts: 5,008
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchFit View Post
Although I own a few, (and sold a few Pros on eBay), my issue with Brooks saddles is their nose. It's very prominent and involves too much interaction with the package in a rotated position. The hammock effect of the Selle An Atomica is even worse in this respect. So, riding in the drops can be a punishing experience, even rotated down in a hoods position is a close call. The old racing saddles I use sort of roll off at the nose, and were shorter = more room for the package when rotated forward. Otherwise, the setback on the Pro is ridiculous, and the B17 is not that much better.


My break-in on black Brooks saddles has been fairly fast, but not so with a honey B17. It tooks years for that saddle to feel right; what's true for one isn't true for all.
I, like you, find that because of the protrusion of the nose on a Brooks saddle, I need to adjust my set for better reception. Since I don't ride the drops a lot, it's not a huge deal for me, but I am ever mindful of the potential of getting bad reception and try to remember, before a ride where there is potential for strenuous climbing or fast coastdowns which will put me in the drops, to make an appropriate adjustment of the set beforehand.
__________________
--
Ridding the world of derailleurs, one bicycle at a time.

46 Hercules Roadster, 49 Hercules Kestrel, 50 Norman Rapide, 51 Hercules Lion, 52 Hercules Windsor, 56 Hercules Royal Prince, 61 Fiorelli Tandem, 67 Carlton Super Race (IGH), 70 Schwinn Collegiate (IGH), 71 Hercules, 71 STF Hercules, 72 Peugeot PX-8 (IGH), 76 Raleigh Sports, 77 STF Raleigh Sports, 77 Jack Taylor Tandem, Early-80's Mike Appel SC, 84 Davidson Tandem, Late-80's Alpine, 10 Bilenky "BQ" Signature Tandem
photogravity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-13, 07:43 AM   #41
Saddle Up
I Love My Dream
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hey folks, I thought I would bring to everyone's attention the seat posts I use with my Brooks saddles since setback seems to be an issue. Enough setback is definately a problem because of the short rails on the saddles, in the old days of slack seat tubes it didn't matter as much. Truvativ to the rescue, they make a couple of seat posts in the Stylo line that offer 25mm of set back, perfect. Both are cheaper than the Paul Components option.

Brooks B-17 Flyer on a Stylo T-20 on a Surly Troll


Brooks B-17 Flyer by SaddleUpBike, on Flickr

I use a Stylo T-30 on the LHT, marginally lighter.
Saddle Up is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-13, 07:50 AM   #42
Saddle Up
I Love My Dream
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangtownmatt View Post
I'd like to see a non-suspended leather saddle along the lines of a Specialized Romin, Avatar, etc. This would provide all the advantages of a modern saddle with the look of a classic.

Matt
It's been done, it's called the Brooks B-17 Narrow Imperial. If you are trying to improve on currently available saddles the Imperial is your target. It doesn't get better than that IMO. I work in a LBS that sells Specialized saddles and when I look at saddles like the Toupe, Romin, Avatar etc., I see a plastic version of the Brooks Imperial.

Last edited by Saddle Up; 04-12-13 at 07:57 AM.
Saddle Up is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-13, 07:02 PM   #43
trescojones
Senior Member
 
trescojones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Bikes:
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
favorite leather saddle of all time was Ideale 88 or 90 the shape of the steel back and nose width was perfect. Ideale 43 not so. I like the brooks b66 once its broken before that its too wide. Brooks leather can be a bit too tough, selle a bit too floppy for a drops position. Always wanted to check out leppers they have some interesting designs. I recondition saddles too, have used a variety of leather

Last edited by trescojones; 04-16-13 at 07:06 PM.
trescojones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-13, 10:14 AM   #44
onbike 1939
Senior Member
 
onbike 1939's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fife Scotland
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
Posts: 2,026
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 249 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbycorno View Post
1) Brooks B17, except that I can't move the damn thing far enough back on a normal seatpost.
2) see #1
3) Very little
4) Very much
5) Very little
6) Not at all

Of course YMMV. But if you could come up with a B17 with about an inch more rearward "travel" at a price I could justify, I'd buy one.

SP
OC, OR
There is an option which does give you the set-back you need and has thicker leather which is water-proofed.

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products....=m2b0s204p2667
onbike 1939 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-13, 12:47 PM   #45
Wanderer
aka Phil Jungels
 
Wanderer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Posts: 7,590
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
One thing to consider, while trying to figure out how to make the rails longer, would be to make the seat(rear) portion a little longer. The advantage of that, would be to enable different sit positions, body wise, while still having the proper platform to be planted on. I've also wondered if it would be advantageous to lace the sides to the rails, rather than each other.
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-13, 10:45 AM   #46
Hangtownmatt
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Bikes:
Posts: 400
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Isn't the Brooks B-17 Narrow Imperial a suspended saddle? By suspended I mean stretched leather.

Matt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
It's been done, it's called the Brooks B-17 Narrow Imperial. If you are trying to improve on currently available saddles the Imperial is your target. It doesn't get better than that IMO. I work in a LBS that sells Specialized saddles and when I look at saddles like the Toupe, Romin, Avatar etc., I see a plastic version of the Brooks Imperial.
Hangtownmatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-13, 01:47 PM   #47
ThermionicScott 
Gratuitous glib and snark
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)
Posts: 14,101
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
I think Selle Anatomica saddles address the setback issue. My concern -- and this may be due to the fact that I haven't tried all of them -- is finding a tensioned leather saddle with a flat rear section like the B17, but with the width of a Pro and an even more gradual taper from front-to-back. My Pro is great in the width department (I wouldn't want anything narrower like the B17N), but it's had this roundness to the top that my perineal region doesn't always agree with.
FWIW (which may not be much), I need to amend this a little. I rode a 200k on a nearly-virgin Brooks B5N yesterday and loved it. The flatter top section, tough leather, and narrower width meant that nothing is sore but my sitbone area, and there was very little pressure in between them. From my reading, the B5N was very close to the shape of a B17N -- mine is 150mm across at the widest part. If this describes the current B17N, it might be the perfect saddle for me, and I'd consider replacing my B17's and Pro with one if it weren't for the cost.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-13, 07:55 AM   #48
Saddle Up
I Love My Dream
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 1,076
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I took suspended to mean some sort of spring system.
Saddle Up is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-13, 12:04 PM   #49
rhm
multimodal commuter
Thread Starter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Posts: 16,101
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 234 Post(s)
So, I recently tried a little something new. What I want to make is a saddle with the heavy suspended leather construction of an old Brooks (or Ideale or whatever) but shaped more like a modern one. To do this right, I am going to need a custom cantle plate and frame; and I'm working on this, but have nothing yet. In the mean time I have collected some old saddles that are too far gone to use, and put new leather on those, usually in the same shape as the original, more or less.

But on this one I wanted to try a prostate-friendly groove. So instead of cutting a hole in it, like a Brooks Imperial, I put an actual groove down the center:



Here it is installed on my old Fuji Finest.



You don't have to tell me it looks great -- no one else has, so far! And I'm not giving it a rave review either. I've only ridden it a few times, less than a hundred miles. The shape isn't quite right; too wide in the center.
rhm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-13, 01:07 PM   #50
ThermionicScott 
Gratuitous glib and snark
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)
Posts: 14,101
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Looks promising, if Buick-y. Maybe using a narrower rear end would bring the center section in enough?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:05 AM.