Soma Grand Randonneur
#126
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: philadelphia, pa
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Bikes: 650b traditional rando, 700c SS rando, 700c fast rando..... plus a mountain, folder, and retired urban track in the basement
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short answer: no, but here are some pictures of my 52cm v1 build i just finished about a month ago. its first brevet was last saturday.
#127
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Woodstown NJ
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Bikes: 1975 Schwinn Voyageur II (Made by Panasonic), 1988 Schwinn Voyaguer (touring)
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SeaJaye
Your light mount look great & rack and bag looks like VO products. I have the VO rack with integral decailluer & their bag on my 88 Voyaguer. Ome question:
How is the light mounted??
What is the stem length??? Looks like 10 cm.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
Your light mount look great & rack and bag looks like VO products. I have the VO rack with integral decailluer & their bag on my 88 Voyaguer. Ome question:
How is the light mounted??
What is the stem length??? Looks like 10 cm.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
#128
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Location: philadelphia, pa
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Bikes: 650b traditional rando, 700c SS rando, 700c fast rando..... plus a mountain, folder, and retired urban track in the basement
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the mount is VO Rack to Light Bracket. on the rack end, i used a typical M4 bolt with presta lock washers to space it out from the rack, threaded through the rack, and then a locknut on the other side. on the light end, i had to drill out the hole a bit to fit the bolt for my edelux. some washers and another locknut here.
the only problem i've come across is that once the light and mount is tightened, there is no adjusting the beam by hand. i used to be able to do this with a fork-crown mount on my old bike, but not anymore with this type of rack mounting. (any tips would be appreciated).
re: stem length. you're good! 10cm / 100mm. it was a guess-and-test off of reach measurements from my old bike, and turned out to be a good length first try.
#129
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Is there an alternative to cantilever brakes for the Grand Randonneur? I've been putting together a build list and was just curious if anyone has used anything else. I'm planning on running 42mm Hetres and fenders and from what I can tell there aren't any alternatives for that set-up. I've heard mini-v style brakes might work without the fenders but don't have any positive confirmation if they will with the fenders mounted. Cantilever brakes aren't a deal breaker, I just don't like them very much.
#130
multimodal commuter
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
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Is there an alternative to cantilever brakes for the Grand Randonneur? I've been putting together a build list and was just curious if anyone has used anything else. I'm planning on running 42mm Hetres and fenders and from what I can tell there aren't any alternatives for that set-up. I've heard mini-v style brakes might work without the fenders but don't have any positive confirmation if they will with the fenders mounted. Cantilever brakes aren't a deal breaker, I just don't like them very much.
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#131
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Resurrecting this post.
I'm building up a 58 size "v1" with 42mm tires and saw this. Are you still happy with the berthoud fenders? Any regrets? My rides have quite a bit of chipseal and am feeling a little skittish.
Many thanks.
I'm building up a 58 size "v1" with 42mm tires and saw this. Are you still happy with the berthoud fenders? Any regrets? My rides have quite a bit of chipseal and am feeling a little skittish.
Many thanks.
You're more than welcome.
But don't overlook my frame's 20mm clearance. That's HUGE! (Photo included this time.) I'll be trimming it this weekend.
The frame size disparity is also huge, so this is like comparing apples and oranges. A call to BB/RH is in order if you want your question answered.
[Edit: Excuse the mess.]
But don't overlook my frame's 20mm clearance. That's HUGE! (Photo included this time.) I'll be trimming it this weekend.
The frame size disparity is also huge, so this is like comparing apples and oranges. A call to BB/RH is in order if you want your question answered.
[Edit: Excuse the mess.]
#133
Senior Member
We have Berthouds fenders on one bike. Good fenders overall, but they tend to rattle a bit at times even though I've tightened all the screws and have used leather washers. They are also a tad heavy since they'real made of stainless steel. I would highly recommend the Tanaka aluminum fenders available from the Soma store. I believe 26” fenders are interchangeable with 650b wheels. With a set of leather washers, they're very quiet and offer excellent wheel coverage.
#134
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Location: Stow, MA
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Bikes: SOMA Double Cross w/ BlackSheep Ti Fork, SOMA Grand Randonneur
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I have had great results with the Honjo 50mm smooth fenders and 42mm Baby Shoe Pass tires on my GR. I used the VO Daruma at the fork crown, and the Compass eyebolts at the fender, the rest of the hardware is stock. No rattles or unusual movement on chip seal, washboard logging roads or 40mph downhills...
#135
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Bikes: SOMA Grand Randonneur, Gunnar Sport converted to 650B, Rivendell Rambouillet, '82 Trek 728, '84 Trek 610, '85 Trek 500, C'Dale F600, Burley Duet, Lotus Legend
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I have had great results with the Honjo 50mm smooth fenders and 42mm Baby Shoe Pass tires on my GR. I used the VO Daruma at the fork crown, and the Compass eyebolts at the fender, the rest of the hardware is stock. No rattles or unusual movement on chip seal, washboard logging roads or 40mph downhills...
#136
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If you have a rattle something is probably wrong. I ignored a rattle and tin-canned a front fender a few years back. I still have all my teeth but boy was I lucky.
@Chris Pringle, I used the hardware set that came with the Berthoud fenders but used cork washers and the the fork crown wedge that Boulder Bike makes. I didn't have a problem with rattles. I didn't weigh them, but I'd agree with you they feel a tad heavier. So do the VO steel fenders, but both feel lighter than Tanaka to me. <-- That's very subjective because the VO and Tanaka fenders were 700C, I didn't weight them, and I imagine we're talking less than an ounce difference.
I'm riding a frame I built now and am rocking' the same set up as @guidoStow except hammered instead of smooth. Very nice combo. They feel lighter despite being the longest out of the bunch. I might not have ever tried the Bethoud and Honjos, but I found both on sale for about the same price as VO. They're generally more expensive than the rest and with the smooth finish it's hard to justify the price difference.
@Chris Pringle, I used the hardware set that came with the Berthoud fenders but used cork washers and the the fork crown wedge that Boulder Bike makes. I didn't have a problem with rattles. I didn't weigh them, but I'd agree with you they feel a tad heavier. So do the VO steel fenders, but both feel lighter than Tanaka to me. <-- That's very subjective because the VO and Tanaka fenders were 700C, I didn't weight them, and I imagine we're talking less than an ounce difference.
I'm riding a frame I built now and am rocking' the same set up as @guidoStow except hammered instead of smooth. Very nice combo. They feel lighter despite being the longest out of the bunch. I might not have ever tried the Bethoud and Honjos, but I found both on sale for about the same price as VO. They're generally more expensive than the rest and with the smooth finish it's hard to justify the price difference.
#137
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If you already have a bike you don't want anymore, then you can move the build kit over. The advantage to getting a whole new frame/fork for $579 over getting just a new fork is that you know that it is designed to work together. A new fork alone may or may not be exactly right. For instance, low-trail bikes typically have a steeper head tube than you would otherwise expect. If you're going with 650B then it's good to have a bike designed around it, rather than one that will just fit. Good 650B design is non-trivial, as witness the first 5 years of bikes that Bicycle Quarterly tested and found wanting in one respect or another.
When I got my GR, I just moved the build kit over from my then-regular-650B-ised '84 Trek 610. Then two weeks later I realized that I had all the parts in my spare parts bin needed to build the frame back up as a studded-tire 700C snow bike...
When I got my GR, I just moved the build kit over from my then-regular-650B-ised '84 Trek 610. Then two weeks later I realized that I had all the parts in my spare parts bin needed to build the frame back up as a studded-tire 700C snow bike...
In the interest of building a better commuter bike, I experimented with 650b in 2008/ 2009 on an old Trek 820 frameset. I chose the 820 for its basic versatility, figuring it would make for a solid test-bed and wasn't disappointed; after a year or so I decided 650b is kind-of a perfect urban wheel size. Since then, I've converted a couple of bikes to 650b: another Trek 820 with a larger frame that fit me better (I transferred the components from the first one and eventually re-sold it, with its original 26" wheelset), & an '84 Univega Rover (possibly one of the strangest frames I've ever owned); and, while they rode fairly well, they did have their quirks.
Btw, the Univega was built up mostly from spare parts left over from the two Trek builds:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...over-10-a.html
After I built the second Trek, I did a lot of research into Japanese 650b frames of the '70s & early '80s; Toei, Watanabe, Maruishi, Bridgestone, etc, and discovered any number of early "MTB/ ATB" frames that were most likely originally designed around 650b rather than 26" wheels. These seem to have been re-purposed commuter/ touring frames, with geometry that really doesn't make much sense in terms of mountain bikes, and which disappeared from the market by around 1985 or so. Anyway, to cut a tedious tale short, the research led me to the Univega and eventually to my '84 Panasonic:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...eye-candy.html
It's a modified, semi-custom frameset, 72-degree H & S tubes, w/ 65mm of BB drop; I've been riding this honey around for the past six months, and it's great; its ride qualities are comparable to my Soma Smoothie, albeit in a non-sport frame. As far as concerns Soma, they'll always get a 'thumbs up' from me; I've never ridden a Soma that I haven't thoroughly enjoyed (including both the GR & the 650b Saga). At the moment I'm really curious to try out the Wolverine.
Last edited by DIMcyclist; 11-23-15 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Grammar & punctuation.
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