chasm54

@Valygirl, excellent catch on the bags.
@YogaKat, when you have the saddle off you should find that the lower part of the bracket that holds the saddle rails can be moved around, so you can alter how it is seated on the curved mounting on the seatpost. You can have it level, or pointing slightly upwards or downwards. Just make sure you keep it in the desired position as you retighten the bolt.

YogaKat

@valygrl and @chasm54

Yay! That worked. Now that the saddle is more level I can stop and adjust height if needed during my ride.

I also got my my bags rearranged and since I have more room from not having the saddle all the way down, the reflector is no longer a problem.

valygrl

I think your mount should pivot but I can't be sure. I don't think i've ever seen one that didn't but I'm not a mechanic or anything. The bolt on the bottom should loosen the whole assembly, and the part that is the bottom holding the seat rails should pivot on top of the part that is the top of the actual seat post. you might need to tap down on the nose of the saddle or up on the lower seat rail clamp to get it to loosen up.


edit - you guys beat me to it.

yogacat, that looks way safer. Glad for you!

chasm54

Great, that saddle position looks way more sensible. You may need to keep fiddling with the tilt and the fore-and-aft position, but that's fine, this is all trial and error. Just be conscious, when riding, of where you are sitting, trying to keep your sitbones on the wide part at the back. This should be much easier now that it's level.

If you do make further adjustments, make them in small increments, just a few millimeters at a time. It makes it easier to keep track of what works.

YogaKat

That is just what I was thinking on my short ride today. I am indeed more on my sit bones now but of course the leveling of the saddle changed up everything else. Right off the bat I did have to stop and lower the seat a bit as my leg had no bend whatsoever after the change. I will take some time and do just as you suggested.



***blah blah blah ****

sarals 

One of the tasks you MUST learn to do is "Fix a Flat". It's not hard, it's a bit dirty, and nails are going to be in jeopardy. However, it's one of those things you need to know how to do. Use the front wheel and practice changing the tube. While you're doing that, you can line the tire brand marking up with the stem! Here's a couple of videos:

YogaKat

When I had the blowout on the trail it was the tire rather than just the tube.

I did learn via a youtube video after I found the slow leak in the front tire. They sure made it look quick and easy but it took me awhile to get it figured out and I broke a cheap lever doing it - thankfully my husband had bought some sturdier ones when we had to replace our daughter's tube. I carry those now. I'm just glad I got to do it in my living room rather than having to figure it out on the road. The one I replaced is positioned correctly.

I am going to go ahead and fix the back stem that's driving me crazy (as well as inspect the tube while I'm at it.) Thanks for the vid on removing the back wheel. That is something I haven't done yet. As you mentioned, I should just go ahead and practice more while I have it off the bike.

chasm54

It's always the components and consumables that cost the money. Frames and chromo forks basically last forever, unless you crash them hard enough to bend them. And to be fair to the bike shop, putting decent new tyres on the bike would probably have cost close to what they charged you for it.

YogaKat

I agree @chasm54

It was really an unnecessary rant and I sounded worse than I meant it to.

The tire blow out is on me. I should have checked the tread and realized that they weren't ride worthy. I just took him at his word that I was all set to go. I do appreciate his replacing them without additional labor costs. It was a learning experience. I have since been popping into other shops to look around and get more acquainted with the local vendors.

Thankfully from now on I will be able to change out my own tires and tubes.

I really am enjoying learning to work on my bike as I go.


(Sometimes I veer off on random discussions.)

YogaKat

I was watching the Epic Climb videos in 'shooting the bull' and noticed that he rested his hands on the handlebar immediately in front and on either side of his phone. Of course he has earned the right to place his hands wherever the heck he wants.

If I don't have my hands in the drops, (is that the right terminology?) that is where I primarily keep my hands because that is where my brake levers work best. I was told by my friend that it was a big no-no and I see a lot of people on the bike trails that have their hands on the top corners most of the time.

Is it just a difference in my old handlebars or am I just doing it wrong?

chasm54

Most people ride "on the hoods" (the brake hoods) most of the time. "On the tops" is whst you're describing. It's fine, and commonplace for seated climbing or just moseying along. Don't climb out of the saddle in this position, though, you'll be unstable. In the drops lowers your centre of gravity, gets more weight over the front wheel and reduces the area you present to the wind, so is best for sprinting, descending, fast cornering, headwinds. One of the benefits of drop bars is that they offer this variety of hand positions, which helps keep you comfortable.

I don't like the extended brake levers. We used to call them "suicide levers" because you can't exert as much braking force through them as through the main levers. If you're struggling to reach the latter it may be worth considering changing their position on the bars. A benefit of going to a women-specific groupset on a more modern bike will be the fact that the brake levers are designed with small hands in mind. One should really be able to operate them when on the hoods or in the drops.

YogaKat

That is what I was thinking I appreciate your confirming that. Not thrilled about the suicide levers but that is what I have for now. Between that and the shift levers it's a bit of multi-tasking while riding. I do love riding in the drops in the conditions that you described.

It does seem like quite a stretch for me to even ride on the hoods as it is and I will tackle the handlebars after I've taken a little more time getting used to my saddle position.

Regarding the recent repositioning of the saddle. It is much more comfortable now including on my hands.

sarals 

Oh, that's good to hear!

You ride with your hands where ever you want to place them. Chas gave good advice. Once again, just because others do something it doesn't mean it will necessarily work for you. There are some "givens" with handlebars. If you're racing in a close quarters race, like a criterium, you should have your hands in the drops. You have more control, and it's a little harder to hook another rider's bars because your hands block that from happening - mostly. Out here, for the beginning racers (women Cat 4's), mentors will ride in the race and admonish people to "stay in the drops". As you gain more experience, sure, move to the hoods. Something to consider, if you're on a group ride, with a big group, and you're buried in the middle somewhere with riders all around, stay in the drops. It is just plain safer. The tops, as Chas said, are great for seated climbing. It straightens your back which opens your chest more, which theoretically allows you to breathe easier. Where your controls are is a matter of setup. If you have trouble reaching your brakes, and it's something serious, move the perches to a position to where they are easy and reliable to reach. You can, as I said early, tilt the handlebars so that the levers are easier to reach, but the best way is to just move the brake perches.

YogaKat

This all makes me feel better. A friend of mine that started riding about the same time as I did was looking at my bike and noticed how I had my hands on the tops and told me that it was wrong. She has a tri training coach so this made me wonder why it was so wrong. I guess for me it's not.

Another thing is that the brake levers on the front just don't work as well as the levers that are placed just inside the tops.

My preferred position is in the drops and what you said about racing or riding in a group with close quarters being safer makes a lot of sense. I usually only move to the tops if I'm coming up to a place that I know I will need to stop or resting while in an easy riding area. With that being said, I've gotten pretty quick on being able to move my hands there in a pinch. (My bike is a multi-taking machine.)

Standing on my this bike is something that I haven't even really gotten to yet, especially since it's so flat here and I actually have gears now. I did this often on my cruiser because well it's just second nature riding that thing. It still feels weird to try on this bike so far, other than just lifting myself slightly up from the saddle when going over rough terrain but I don't think that really counts as standing.

Next modification is the handlebars for sure. They feel rather low and further away after adjusting the saddle to where it is now. After a pretty good ride today I feel like the saddle is where it should be. I will be on later after work probably asking questions about what I'm doing.

A little side note. I went out in 49 degree weather this morning. I realize that is not very cold, but it's colder than I have ridden in yet so I was a little nervous but I bundled up and headed out. My husband teases me about being a little Chihuahua because I'm always shivering when most people are comfortable.

I just wanted to get some miles in and wasn't trying to go crazy on speed but I ended up recording a personal record on average speed and maximum speed. It was just a little more but this was a great unexpected surprise. It really put perspective on being patient and letting it come to me over time. Yay!

sarals 

I think that says you were relaxed!

YogaKat

Yes

I was a little clumsy on the first five miles but then started concentrating on practicing taking the turns correctly and safely and just enjoyed the ride.

YogaKat

I have been looking into Zwift.

I have never used a trainer and I'm lost trying to select one. Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive trainer that is compatible with Zwift?

IBOHUNT

If you don't have a power meter on the bike and you want Zwift to simulate the real world conditions you would need one of the 'smart" (read can get very expensive!) trainers although the Tacx Satori is relatively inexpensive.

If you have a power meter OR a speed sensor that broadcasts an ANT signal then all you need to capture the data is an ANT stick and a 'classic' trainer. Zwift has a supported trainer page.

Zwift Trainer support

ANT stick

Before making a decision I'd suggest going to some bike shops to see what they have and maybe even test ride one. Some are noisy (fans) while others, such as fluid types are far quieter.

Don't forget you'd also need a trainer skewer to replace the one on the wheel you have.
I've found I also need a tonne of towels and a large fan when using a trainer indoors. I usually have more water coming off of me than a co-ed at a spring break wet t-shirt contest during a hard session.

Racer Ex 

I just picked up a Tacx Vortex for $300 US new through Germany. Bike 24 is blowing out their TDF versions. That's a killer deal.

IBOHUNT

Only capable of 950W. You using it for Z2 rides?

Looks like a steal. If I didn't have a trainer I'd look into that.

sarals 

I ordered a ANT dongle yesterday so I can use Zwift. I'm going to ride using my old Blackburn magnetic trainer and shift a lot. If I set the resistance to high on that thing it'll give me quite a challenge. No, it's not smart, and Zwift won't be able to talk to it, but that's okay. Smart trainers are so low on my priority list that they're invisible.

Ditto on needing towels, fan, and sweat! Oh, yeah, I know - women don't "sweat", we "perspire". A river!

valygrl

Is that the same as the one dcrainmaker reviewed? Did you get it already? what a great deal, I may have to jump on that.

Racer Ex 

Not sure if it's the one he reviewed, this is the mid range one. It's on it's way and should be here this week, they are usually pretty fast on delivery. And yeah, screaming deal.

YogaKat

This is what I was trying to figure out - basically how Zwift works with the trainer. It looks like it could be a lot of fun. Video game just for cyclists.

I have these items on my Christmas wish list already:

Garmin 010-01368-00 Edge 520 Bike GPS
Garmin Bike Speed Sensor and Cadence Sensor
Garmin Premium Heart Rate Monitor (Soft Strap)

I also just added a USB ANT stick as well.

I guess I will wait until after the holidays to see if I end up getting them. January is usually when our ice storms arrive anyway.

That Tacx Vortex looks nice! ...but I'm saving up for the other bike which comes before a trainer or Zwift for that matter.



Haha. A river is right! I'm one stinky lady when I get home from riding.

On another note I mentioned that I've been working on taking curves during my last couple of rides.
Sheesh! No wonder I crashed earlier on. My confidence level is slowing getting better as I practice more. I watched some videos on how to properly take curves. I now realize that due to the mental remnants from the crash, I had started braking while in the turn. Oops! Looking back I probably was either still peddling or just simply had my dominant foot down rather than the correct one. Whatever the reason I crashed and burned I am enjoying learning to take the curves correctly now.

I have also been paying attention more to my handlebars on the last couple of rides (now that the saddle has been reconciled) and can see how moving them to a position where the drops are more horizontal may benefit me. I've just got to get the hex screw (or what ever it's called) unscrewed. May have to get Mr. YogaKat's help on loosening it. I might be able to use those front brake levers after all.

chasm54

As a beginner, get your braking done before you turn in. Later on @Racer Ex can teach you about trail braking. But not yet, definitely not yet.