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Masters Racing (All Disciplines) Race on the track or road or on your mountainbike in the Masters Category? Want to talk tactics, strategy and training with your peers?

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Old 01-13-14, 12:53 PM   #476
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Turns out I have the flu. After posting yesterday, things went downhill fast. Still running a fever with acetaminophen in me.

Anyway, I've been able to sell many frames over the years -- some as complete bike -- and I've done so with the fork cut down and with some spacers above the fork. Some sales have been bargain basement prices, but others have been at market value. Generally staying upright helps bikes retain market value.

These days I figure that there are enough rising stems out there that you can cut down your fork reasonably (not slammed) and not run into resale issues. YMMV.

BTW, I don't intend to ever sell the Serotta.
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Old 01-13-14, 01:03 PM   #477
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I take Tamaflu. If you can get a prescription today and take it, it really helps with colds and flu. I have used it a couple of times but the window is 48 hours.
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Old 01-13-14, 02:33 PM   #478
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Unfortunately, it's been more than 48 hours since the symptoms started.
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Old 01-14-14, 05:18 PM   #479
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Here is my stem / steerer tube "situation". The good news is that the stem was closer to the top with a -6 degree stem last year. I have improved my aero position. Time to cut the tube.

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Old 01-26-14, 12:44 AM   #480
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2014 Cannondale Supersix EVO 5

Okay, I've spent way too much time trying to post a full size pic of the new ride, so here goes!



Be gentle, it's off-the-shelf new and stock with no modifications (except for the SIGMA bike computer). I bought it for the EVO frame platform with the expectation of component upgrades when possible. Any ideas? Everyone is saying the wheel set could be improved and there is an article in the January Buyer's Guide issue of Velo magazine recommending the $1,000 in upgrades using the EVO 5 as an example. Ideas? I'm a novice, but am an aggressive rider. I anticipating entering and racing a few crits this year.
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Old 01-26-14, 08:40 AM   #481
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I'll let the boys suggest wheels. Me, I use carbon tubulars for crits on my CAAD 10. They're pretty snappy.

What wheels did your bike come with? They're probably fine for training.

Did you change the bar tape, or is that the original?
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Old 01-26-14, 09:11 AM   #482
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Okay, I've spent way too much time trying to post a full size pic of the new ride, so here goes!
You can open the picture in a new tab/window, copy the address of the image, then put the address as a URL link, like so:

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Old 01-26-14, 09:29 AM   #483
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As for the bike I'd go out and enjoy it right now. A new bike is always fun - with a crisp new drivetrain it shifts well, it feels very smooth and quiet when you pedal, the wheels feel great… you should take that all in.

Three things pop out at me looking at the picture.
- First, it's super minor but you can get into the habit going forward - if you're supporting the bike by one wheel, like using the stand, support it by the back wheel. Since the back wheel doesn't steer you don't get into a "bar turns a bit, front wheel starts to roll, and then the bike is on the ground" thing. You can lean the bike using just the rear wheel and the wall - the rear wheel won't rotate so the bike effectively becomes a non-rolling thing. Don't lean it up against something using the bars, same thing as using the front wheel. You'll see how stable the bike is if you lean using the rear wheel. This is a fluency thing, no dig on you, I had to learn it also (took me years before someone showed me).

- Second, the saddle seems pointed down. If you need to point the saddle down significantly it may be an indication the saddle is high. The issue with a pointed down saddle isn't the saddle per se but it's that you end up supporting a lot of weight on your hands. This leads to fatigue (shoulders, arms) and typically numb hands. Although it's impossible to ride consistently with no weight on your hands (if you take your hands off the bars without sitting upright you end up using your glutes to support yourself so you ride faster/harder unless you're riding up a hill) a close-to-level saddle will take a tremendous amount of weight off your hands. For many years I rode with a saddle pointed down a touch, a couple degrees based on a long straightedge, and now my saddle is pretty level.

- Third, as you progress as a rider and strengthen muscles not significantly used in everyday life (glutes, lower back, etc) you'll find yourself wanting to get lower to recruit those newly strengthened muscles. It's aero, fine, but it's a leverage thing too. You'll be leaning forward on hills, automatically/instinctively, because your body is trying to recruit those powerful muscles to help you get up the hill. As you get more into the sport you'll notice that you lean forward when you're going hard, whether on the flats or hills.

I really haven't mentioned any upgrades because to me your bike seems like a great place to start. Good equipment, good frame, nothing glaringly lacking in the bike. Anything you might change would be personal (like you learn that you don't like the saddle or the bar shape or something) or for fit (stem change is most typical for fit related stuff, bars are another commonly changed item, saddle of course).

Although aero wheels will help they aren't as significant as getting into a more aero position on the bike, losing significant weight, or gaining significant cycling-specific fitness (aerobically or muscularly). Gaining 1 mph by getting wheels but losing 3 mph by being really upright… work on the being upright part first.

Of course you should keep your health in mind - weird changes leading to problems on the bike, overdoing it at the beginning, overuse or improper-fit induced injuries, these are much more significant than any bike equipment change you can make.

Best wishes with your first year cycling seriously and keep your enthusiasm up. Post questions as you have them, there's a pretty good support structure here.
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Old 01-26-14, 01:12 PM   #484
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What wheels did your bike come with? They're probably fine for training. Did you change the bar tape, or is that the original?
The wheels are aluminum Shimano RS11. The specs (weight) are okay. Considering where I'm at with training/experience they meet my current needs. I know they can be improved, but CPD makes a lot of sense, there's more improvement to be found in working on my aero position, losing weight, and gaining cycling fitness. Bar tape is original from the LBS. I'm guessing they taped the bars? What are you thinking? Green? White? Blue?
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Old 01-26-14, 01:26 PM   #485
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Green to match the saddle.
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Old 01-26-14, 01:51 PM   #486
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As for the bike I'd go out and enjoy it right now. A new bike is always fun - with a crisp new drivetrain it shifts well, it feels very smooth and quiet when you pedal, the wheels feel great… you should take that all in.
Thanks. I am thoroughly enjoying the ride. I keep pushing my turns tighter and faster and still haven't found the inside limit for jumping into a corner. It's a world of difference from my six year-old Trek. The Trek was fine for improving general fitness, but compared to the EVO, cornering felt like riding on top of a telephone pole.

One thing, and it might just be a minor RDR adjustment, but a couple times now, the chain has jumped down the rear cassette while pushing hard on a 7-8% incline. I'm running the Shimano 105 CS-5700 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27 cassette. Sometimes I'm in the big ring, sometimes in the 34T ring, but I'll be pushing hard on the pedals and the chain will jump down from the 24T ring to the 21T-17T rings. Adjustment to the RDR, or do I need just need to do a better job "feathering" and seating the chain onto the 24T ring?
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Old 01-26-14, 01:58 PM   #487
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Green to match the saddle.
Ouch. That would look sharp.
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Old 01-26-14, 02:13 PM   #488
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Three things pop out at me looking at the picture.
- First, it's super minor but you can get into the habit going forward - if you're supporting the bike by one wheel, like using the stand, support it by the back wheel.

- Second, the saddle seems pointed down. If you need to point the saddle down significantly it may be an indication the saddle is high. The issue with a pointed down saddle isn't the saddle per se but it's that you end up supporting a lot of weight on your hands. This leads to fatigue (shoulders, arms) and typically numb hands.

- Third, as you progress as a rider and strengthen muscles not significantly used in everyday life (glutes, lower back, etc) you'll find yourself wanting to get lower to recruit those newly strengthened muscles. It's aero, fine, but it's a leverage thing too. You'll be leaning forward on hills, automatically/instinctively, because your body is trying to recruit those powerful muscles to help you get up the hill.
1) Roger

2) Maybe it's the camera angle or the shape of the saddle, cause the first thing I did after the fitting was check the saddle with a level. It's perfectly flat. I've done a bunch of 20 milers in the last week and haven't noticed any excess fatigue in the arms or shoulders, but I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to start extending my 20 mile route to 30 miles. We'll see.

3) Makes a lot of good sense. I've noticed recently, as my core strength increases and cycling strength/stamina increases, I'm spending more and more time in the drops. That was also true six months ago on my Trek. Of course, I haven't seen a huge improvement with the EVO in my time over measured distances, but I didn't expect to gain significant time. As you said there's more improvement to be found in an improved aero position, losing weight, and gaining cycling fitness.
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Old 01-26-14, 02:23 PM   #489
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I take Tamaflu. If you can get a prescription today and take it, it really helps with colds and flu. I have used it a couple of times but the window is 48 hours.
Spot on. I was a public health preparedness planner for the Minnesota Department of Health, worked on the state pandemic flu plans, and Tamiflu is gold. We keep a couple filled prescriptions in our fridge year round and have a couple more unfilled scrips on hand. People, get your flu shot. It's a new vaccine this year and covers multiple strains. There are also great apps available for tracking it's progress in your area.
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Old 01-26-14, 03:19 PM   #490
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It's purty.

Wheels are certainly the place where you want quality, both fir performance and "issue avoidance".
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Old 01-26-14, 04:55 PM   #491
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It's purty.

Wheels are certainly the place where you want quality, both fir performance and "issue avoidance".
Tank you. And we do know that looking good is half the reason we ride. Some of us anyway. "Issue avoidance"???
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Old 01-26-14, 05:08 PM   #492
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Tank you. And we do know that looking good is half the reason we ride. Some of us anyway. "Issue avoidance"???
I'm not familiar with the wheel son your bike, but I had major issues with the wheels that came stock on a Madone 5 series I bought. A tire un-beaded twice, with the tube then wrapping in the brakes and axle, sending me skidding to a stop riding only the alloy wheel at speed. Not fun. That said, the Shimano R500's I got with my TT bike have been just fine.
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Old 01-26-14, 05:53 PM   #493
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Green to match the saddle.
Absolutely!
Green Lizardskin DSP 2.5 MM

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Old 01-26-14, 05:59 PM   #494
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One thing, and it might just be a minor RDR adjustment, but a couple times now, the chain has jumped down the rear cassette while pushing hard on a 7-8% incline. I'm running the Shimano 105 CS-5700 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27 cassette. Sometimes I'm in the big ring, sometimes in the 34T ring, but I'll be pushing hard on the pedals and the chain will jump down from the 24T ring to the 21T-17T rings. Adjustment to the RDR, or do I need just need to do a better job "feathering" and seating the chain onto the 24T ring?
It will shift 1-2 cogs down the cassette all by itself? That's not normal. 5700 105 is rock solid stuff. I bet the cable is hanging up somewhere. The first place I would check is the bottom bracket cable guide. It may have loosened up and swiveled around a bit. Or just take it back to the LBS.
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Old 01-26-14, 06:48 PM   #495
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In the VeloNews test, the testers singled out the tires as one of the first things that needed to be replaced, and recommended 700x25s. I agree with the idea, though I have no idea what the stock tires are like. The consensus around the 33 is that the Continental Grand Prix 4000S and the Michelin Pro 4 Endurance are tires that work well both for racing and training. A set of those - ~$80/pair from one of the UK web stores - would be a relatively inexpensive upgrade that would be noticeable.
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Old 01-26-14, 07:49 PM   #496
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Absolutely! Green Lizardskin DSP 2.5 MM
Whooooaaa... yup, that would look nice. Leave the hoods black? I'm not sure about that.
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Old 01-26-14, 08:29 PM   #497
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The consensus around the 33 is that the Continental Grand Prix 4000S and the Michelin Pro 4 Endurance are tires that work well both for racing and training.
I'm guessing I'll spend $300-$600 on a new wheel set and that's a few months away. I'll start with a pair of the Michelin Pro's this week, probably 25's. They're easy to find here and 25's are recommended for the rough roads. I went for a ride this afternoon over Green "Mountain" to Garden Ridge and I need to do something. Going out and "down" was nice, easily pushed 35-40mph (could've stepped on it harder), and the ride was steady, but I took a shovel into the pain cave on the way back. It was an hour of pushing a 5-10mph wind, mostly uphill, and plowing through chip-seal. It hurt so bad, but no stopping, and now it feels so good. Why is that?
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Old 01-26-14, 08:50 PM   #498
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It will shift 1-2 cogs down the cassette all by itself? That's not normal. 5700 105 is rock solid stuff.
"Rock solid stuff"? That's good to hear. I was considering a Fuji Altamira with Ultegra components. I'll take "rock solid" 105's.

I'm going to put it up on the stand tonight and take a look at the cables, but operator error is not impossible. I watched my shifting closely today and wondering if I'm cross-chaining from the big ring to the 24 in the rear? Could the FDR be pushing the chain down? It wasn't rubbing, but... Oh well, I'll check the cables and it's going in for a check-up next week anyway.
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Old 01-26-14, 11:15 PM   #499
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Green to match the saddle.
I go with that! Or, white. It's "so pro", you know
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Old 01-27-14, 05:35 AM   #500
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It will shift 1-2 cogs down the cassette all by itself? That's not normal. 5700 105 is rock solid stuff. I bet the cable is hanging up somewhere. The first place I would check is the bottom bracket cable guide. It may have loosened up and swiveled around a bit. Or just take it back to the LBS.
Rear shifting getting a little strange like that is common on new bikes due to the new cables and housings "settling in" to each other. I'd take it back to the shop - most LBSs have "free tune-up" policies for from a month to a year on new bikes - and ask them to square it away, and also ask to watch and have them explain what they're doing if you don't know how to do it. It's a really simple adjustment. If it's something more involved, having them see it now instead of later can avoid future hassles and missed riding time.
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