240's
#1
la vache fantôme
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240's
Well one reason I love these hubs is their lack of noise. I noticed though that lately they have been getting louder. Has anybody else using these hubs, or any DT hub noticed it getting louder? So I emailed DT swiss and they said do an overhaul. I had no idea but this thing requires no tools for the overhaul . Well this is only an overhaul of the ratchet system. They said use a quick release to pop off a cap and it all slides off. Well i did what the man said, i burried the ratchets with grease and now its silent again . I must say though, for all of the mud riding i have been doing since the snows melted I am thoroughly impressed with the seals performance. Has anybody else noticed their hubs getting louder?
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#2
It's only a hill.
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Ey up Phantom, I've been using 240s for almost 3 seasons of racing and they have been serviced just once. I took them to my LBS (where I bought them), because the rear hub was making a strange noise. Nothing worrying, but when freewheeling it began to make a strange intermittent (sp?) whirring noise. My rear hub is now doing it again, so it needs re-greasing. I want to do it myself because I do all my own repairs and servicing and I downloaded the instructions from the DT website, but have never quite had the time yet. Is it fairly easy?
Some people have had problems with the hubs, especially the first generation hubs, but I think mine are Brill.
Some people have had problems with the hubs, especially the first generation hubs, but I think mine are Brill.
#3
la vache fantôme
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very easy indeed. Replacing the bearings and whatnot requires special tools but sealed bearings last a long time anyways. Servicing the main component (star ratchey system) is really easy.
First, with the cassette still on pull with significant force and the endcap of the driveside hub will pop right off. It takes a fair amount of force though. Or the method i prefer is find an old quick release and make a slight bend at the end, now with the cassette off slide the QR skewer down the hollow axle, make it so it catches the endcap and tap with a small hammer.
When that cap is off the freehub body will slide right off almost effortlessly.
3 parts will come out besides the actual body;
2 star ratchets
one bushing.
You will see how the system works, quite well engineered in my opinion.
Remove the star ratchey, both are the smae so dont worry about mixing them up.
Dont spray with any solvent because you are close to the bearings, but wipe off all visible grease and apply new grease.
Wipe off all grease from the star ratchets and apply new grease.
Insert back, the star ratcheyt is secured similar to how an ISIS tool is, just the way you found it.
Reassemble.
The whole job took all of 15 minutes
Good luck
First, with the cassette still on pull with significant force and the endcap of the driveside hub will pop right off. It takes a fair amount of force though. Or the method i prefer is find an old quick release and make a slight bend at the end, now with the cassette off slide the QR skewer down the hollow axle, make it so it catches the endcap and tap with a small hammer.
When that cap is off the freehub body will slide right off almost effortlessly.
3 parts will come out besides the actual body;
2 star ratchets
one bushing.
You will see how the system works, quite well engineered in my opinion.
Remove the star ratchey, both are the smae so dont worry about mixing them up.
Dont spray with any solvent because you are close to the bearings, but wipe off all visible grease and apply new grease.
Wipe off all grease from the star ratchets and apply new grease.
Insert back, the star ratcheyt is secured similar to how an ISIS tool is, just the way you found it.
Reassemble.
The whole job took all of 15 minutes
Good luck
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#4
Throw the stick!!!!
Here is my favorite picture of one of my Hugi 240 hubs (labeled Magura). The crack went almost all the way across. I called Hugi up, they told me to send the wheel in. They gave me a new hub and built my wheel back up for me, a week later I had my wheel back.
I have had to call the company for a couple of other reasons over the past couple of years. IMO they have the best customer service in the industry.
I have had to call the company for a couple of other reasons over the past couple of years. IMO they have the best customer service in the industry.
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#5
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ouch - howdyadodat? jumps or just wear and tear?
concerned 240s user
concerned 240s user
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Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
shameless POWERCRANK plug
Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!
#6
Throw the stick!!!!
Real long, fast downhill with a lot of ditchs going across it. I bunny hopped most of them but I sort of cased the edge of one of the ditches that had no transition to it. It was so muddy I didn't even know I cracked it. Rode the next day and had some problems with the freewheel slipping. I just thought something was wrong inside the hub until that evening when I cleaned it.
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#7
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Love the Hugi on my Bontrager Race Lites. Just a quick note: You'd need the DT specific grease (recommended) or a very light grease (Judy butter seems to work at a pinch) and not too much of it.
#8
It's only a hill.
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Originally Posted by phantomcow2
very easy indeed.
The whole job took all of 15 minutes
Good luck
The whole job took all of 15 minutes
Good luck
#9
Throw the stick!!!!
Originally Posted by FrankH
Love the Hugi on my Bontrager Race Lites. Just a quick note: You'd need the DT specific grease (recommended) or a very light grease (Judy butter seems to work at a pinch) and not too much of it.
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#10
Giggity giggity!
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How are the Onyx hubs? Are they quiet as the 240s? I placed an order for some Onyx FR wheels